




From: Carmine Di Chiara <carmine_dichiara@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 18:02:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Backcoating questions - Amended.

Mette,

Thanks for your response.

I'm a bit suprised by the ratio of Methyl Cellulose to
water, too. I'm now up to 8 t. CMC to 24 oz. water,
but I haven't tried it out yet. The 5 t. CMC to 24 oz.
water didn't work at all: after the paper dried out
the two pieces just fell apart.

I'm not even close to having the mixture look like
jello, or "ectoplasm" as you described in your very
useful web page. At 8 teaspoons CMC it is, however,
quite like split pea soup; I'll have to try it at this
ratio.

BTW, I'm practicing on two sheets of brown wrapping
paper until I get the hang of it. Might this type of
paper not do well with backcoating?

Regards,

Carmine

Date:    Sun, 8 Aug 1999 15:04:44 -0400
From:    Mette Pederson <mette.pederson@TRIFOLIUM.COM>
Subject: Re: Backcoating questions - Amended.

Yes, the clumping behavior you experienced when first
preparing the
mixture
is rather normal.  Although, I'm a little concerned
about the ratio of
Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose to water that you are
using.  Although, I
admit I'm not familiar with Sodium
Carboxymethylcellulose.  We use
either
plain old methyl cellulose or Methylan Cellulose.
Rather than typing
everything I know about backcoating here, please see
the write-up on my
web
page, http://mette.pederson.com/Backcoat.htm.  It
includes the recipe
and
process we use, as well as a little information about
wet folding.

Mette "Units" Pederson
---------------------------------
http://mette.pederson.com/
Mette@Pederson.com
MetteUnits@aol.com

===
-------
Carmine Di Chiara
carmine_dichiara@yahoo.com
        Beyond each corner new directions lie in wait.
                - Stanislaw Lec
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com





From: Carmine Di Chiara <carmine_dichiara@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 18:04:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Backcoating questions - Amended.

Mette,

Thanks for your response and your URL! :)

I'm a bit suprised by the ratio of Methyl Cellulose to
water, too. I'm now up to 8 t. CMC to 24 oz. water,
but I haven't tried it out yet. The 5 t. CMC to 24 oz.
water didn't work at all: after the paper dried out
the two pieces just fell apart.

I'm not even close to having the mixture look like
jello, or "ectoplasm" as you described in your very
useful web page. At 8 teaspoons CMC it is, however,
quite like split pea soup; I'll have to try it at this
ratio.

BTW, I'm practicing on two sheets of brown wrapping
paper until I get the hang of it. Might this type of
paper not do well with backcoating?

Regards,

Carmine

Date:    Sun, 8 Aug 1999 15:04:44 -0400
From:    Mette Pederson <mette.pederson@TRIFOLIUM.COM>
Subject: Re: Backcoating questions - Amended.

Yes, the clumping behavior you experienced when first
preparing the
mixture
is rather normal.  Although, I'm a little concerned
about the ratio of
Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose to water that you are
using.  Although, I
admit I'm not familiar with Sodium
Carboxymethylcellulose.  We use
either
plain old methyl cellulose or Methylan Cellulose.
Rather than typing
everything I know about backcoating here, please see
the write-up on my
web
page, http://mette.pederson.com/Backcoat.htm.  It
includes the recipe
and
process we use, as well as a little information about
wet folding.

Mette "Units" Pederson
---------------------------------
http://mette.pederson.com/
Mette@Pederson.com
MetteUnits@aol.com

===
-------
Carmine Di Chiara
carmine_dichiara@yahoo.com
        Beyond each corner new directions lie in wait.
                - Stanislaw Lec
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 18:22:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

>Hi all,
>      Is Prehistoric Origami any good?! I've just spent the past 4 hours
>making the stegosaurus from this book, David Whitbeck buy, borrow or steal
>this book immediately its absolutely fantastic. All of the models in this
>book can be folded by even novice to intermediate folders (i.e. me) with a
>little patience, which makes it more accessible than some of his other books
>such as say 'Origami Sea Life' (Lionfish anyone?).
>
>Now two questions (Help!)
>
>Firstly does anyone know how to fold the unicorn from the end on Bladerunner
>from "1" piece of paper. I've been trying to figure out a way to do this for
>nearly a month now and made little to no progress. Few hints would be
>appreciated (as would a step by step pdf format diagram ;) )
>
>   Does anyone know of somewhere in the Sunderland/Newcastle area that sells
>decent origami paper. The Blackwell's in Newcastle now only stocks sheets
>which feels like one step away from cardboard after using the decent stuff. I
>wouldn't mind so much if squares where even remotely... well square :(
>
>*************************************
>* Eruditus has left the building *
>*************************************

Hey, the Lionfish isn't Montroll so he can't help the difficulty, actually
that is a fun fold but I've never encountered such nasty sinks at the end
(you know the one that says if your fingers are now bloody stumps, you
don't have to do this sink on the fins.)

Four hours wow!  What kind of paper are you using?  I bet I would take just
as long folding it from xerox paper, but I would rather not chance soreness
and try with the kami.  Was alot of time in those four plate sinks?  When I
was going through my reckless stage I folded it in about 1 1/2 hours.  Now
I know that it's better to take your time and fold carefully, perfectly

I wonder if Kawahata's stegosaurus for the depraved paperfolder is as time
consuming?

To Russell Sutherland: neat website!  How do you get your folds so smooth
and curvy?  Any tips you can give me?

David "I've got nothin' to do but send too much email" Whitbeck





From: anthraxia ! <anthraxia@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 18:53:59 -0700 (
Subject: Kawasaki Rose - Twist fold?

Hello,
     I was attempting to make the Kawasaki Rose by following the steps
diagrammed by Winson Chan, but I get stuck on steps 20-21. I've spent two
hours searching through the archives for help, but I didn't find any on
Winson Chan's diagram, only on the one from 'Origami for the Connoiseur'.
Maybe I'm just not realizing something that's really simple...  Any help
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

-anthraxia!

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com





From: Dave Stephenson <EruditusD@AOL.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 20:51:53 -0400 (
Subject: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

Hi all,
      Is Prehistoric Origami any good?! I've just spent the past 4 hours
making the stegosaurus from this book, David Whitbeck buy, borrow or steal
this book immediately its absolutely fantastic. All of the models in this
book can be folded by even novice to intermediate folders (i.e. me) with a
little patience, which makes it more accessible than some of his other books
such as say 'Origami Sea Life' (Lionfish anyone?).

Now two questions (Help!)

Firstly does anyone know how to fold the unicorn from the end on Bladerunner
from "1" piece of paper. I've been trying to figure out a way to do this for
nearly a month now and made little to no progress. Few hints would be
appreciated (as would a step by step pdf format diagram ;) )

   Does anyone know of somewhere in the Sunderland/Newcastle area that sells
decent origami paper. The Blackwell's in Newcastle now only stocks sheets
which feels like one step away from cardboard after using the decent stuff. I
wouldn't mind so much if squares where even remotely... well square :(

*************************************
* Eruditus has left the building *





From: Mette Pederson <mette.pederson@TRIFOLIUM.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 22:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Backcoating questions - Amended.

Carmine Di Chiara wrote:
"BTW, I'm practicing on two sheets of brown wrapping
paper until I get the hang of it. Might this type of
paper not do well with backcoating?"
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Carmine, I've never tried backcoating brown wrapping paper before, so I
don't know what kind of results you should expect.  I would think it should
work, provided the paper will absorb the CMC mixture.  Has anyone else out
there tried this?

Can you tell us more about the CMC?  Is it intended to be used as wall paper
paste?

Mette "Units" Pederson
---------------------------------
http://mette.pederson.com/
Mette@Pederson.com
MetteUnits@aol.com





From: Mike and/or Janet Hamilton <mikeinnj@CONCENTRIC.NET>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 22:38:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Kawasaki Rose - Twist fold?

>      I was attempting to make the Kawasaki Rose by following the steps
> diagrammed by Winson Chan, but I get stuck on steps 20-21

If you try to fold this, there is one small error in the diagrams at
step 24.  The solution is to extend the fold in step 24 to get the
result diagrammed in step 25.  In other words, the diagonal valley fold
should extend through 4 squares instead of 3, the vertical moutain fold
should be moved to the right by one square, and the horizontal mountain
fold should move down one square.

Janet Hamilton





From: anthraxia ! <anthraxia@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 23:02:10 -0700 (
Subject: KawasakiRose- steps 20 & 21

hi everyone. i wanted to apologize for my screw up. i looked over the
directions again, and realized that i understood the twist fold part. what i
don't understand is the part where i'm supposed to bring together the flaps
formed by the twist fold to make a cylinder.

step 20 reads:
"Bring together the flaps formed by the twist fold. VAlley fold along the
diagonal line to help with this. Model will not remain flat, and should
resemble a cylinder. Make sure that the centre points up, not down."

once it becomes a cylinder, is the colored side of the paper on the inside
or the outside?  I just can't achieve the diagram that's given in step 21.

oh, and thank you janet, for telling me about steps 24 & 25!

- anthraxia!
  AIM: anthraxia2
  ICQ: 561503
  anthraxia@hotmail.com

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com





From: Dave Stephenson <EruditusD@AOL.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 06:12:47 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

In a message dated 09/08/99 02:20:31 GMT Daylight Time,
dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU writes:

>>Four hours wow!  What kind of paper are you using?  I bet I would take just
>>as long folding it from xerox paper, but I would rather not chance soreness
>> and try with the kami.  Was alot of time in those four plate sinks?  When I
>> was going through my reckless stage I folded it in about 1 1/2 hours.  Now
>>I know that it's better to take your time and fold carefully, perfectly

Believe me if I could get xerox coloured on one side and white on the other I
would throw my current paper in the bin :) 1 1/2 hours?!! well it was my
first time folding the stegosaurus I suppose the next time I do it I might
manage to get it down to ohhh...say 3 1/2 (if im optimistic).

Maybe I'll have a shot at Kawahata's stegosaurus next time I've a day to
kill.... Well, off to work to try and teach half a dozen other trained seals
how to fold a stegosaurus...

*************************************
* Eruditus has left the building *





From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 07:29:03 -0400
Subject: Rectangulium and variations

OK...now that I can do the rectangulium...I remember seeing variations of
that...and also one done with swaures...can anyone lead me to a site or book
that has these in it?

thanks..

Beth
Have a Bob Day
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/origami.html





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 08:44:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

Mind you that  1 1/2 is because it was when I would fold fast and live
dangerously.  I should fold it again and see how long it takes me now.

David





From: Howard Portugal <howardpo@MICROSOFT.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 10:06:21 -0700
Subject:

Anyone know Jeannine Mosley's email address? if so, please reply to here:
mailto:howardpo@microsoft.com instead of the list.

Thanks,

Howard Portugal
Critical Problem Resolution - NT Escalation (CPR/NT)

* howardpo@microsoft.com
*Wk: 425/704-4078
*Pgr: Urgent V-Mail

One is always a long way from solving a problem until one actually has the
answer.

Stephen Hawking





From: Scott Cramer <scram@LANDMARKNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 10:46:46 -0400
Subject: Re: xerox paper

>Finish the model, DIP the whole thing into water (It will open up.. so be
careful.)
And let it dry quickly, preferably with the aid of the hairdryer. Dip as in
just like you accidentally dropped it into
water and picked it up. Don't get it dripping, but be sure to submerge the
whole model.<

    I had a Kawahata pteranodon from 6" paper hanging from my rear-view
mirror. I came out to my car one rainy morning to find that I had left the
windows open, and the 110% humidity in the car had dampened the model to the
point that it was starting to unfold. Taking the model inside, I reshaped
it, and put it in a 200 degree (F) oven for a while. Much to my surprise,
the dried model has held its shape remarkably well since.
    I have since adapted this lesson for models that I use in mobiles.
Rather than wet folding, which is impractical for very complex models, I
take the finished model, and put it on a support in a large sauce pot with
an inch of very hot water in it, keeping the model out of the water. Put the
cover on the pot, and in five or ten minutes, the paper becomes very damp,
but not wet. Refold and reshape as necessary, bake as above, and the paper
seems to harden in a way that wants to retain its form.
    I imagine the baking does something to the starches in the paper which
locks the folds in place. Whatever the mechanism may be, it gives some
permanence that is lacking otherwise.
    So far, I've only done this with kami and monocolor paper, but I would
guess it would work for most anything. Give it a try!

Scott scram@landmarknet.net





From: Foldmaster@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 10:52:02 -0400 (
Subject: JOAS Membership Offer

Dear fellow folders,

I have received information from the following people for JOAS membership
along with their checks for $40.00 dues:

Alex Barber
Mette Pederson
Ann Kleimola
Marcy A. Kulic
Kimberly Shuck
Jonathan J. Picker
Penny Chua

Have I missed anyone?  Did anyone already send me a check and your name is
not listed?  Please send me a private message and indicate approximate date
of your mailing.  I haven't checked today's mail yet (it doesn't arrive until
later in the day).

Also, if there is anyone out there who would still like to take advantage of
this special offer, please e-mail me of your intention and send me your check
AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!

Sincerely yours,

June Sakamoto





From: Pamela Dailey <pdailey@IBM.NET>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 11:36:12 -0400
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer

Hi June,

I would like to join JOAS.
Is it possible to give you a Visa/MC number (would be faster)?

Pamela Dailey

Foldmaster@AOL.COM wrote:

> Dear fellow folders,
>
> I have received information from the following people for JOAS membership
> along with their checks for $40.00 dues:
>
> Alex Barber
> Mette Pederson
> Ann Kleimola
> Marcy A. Kulic
> Kimberly Shuck
> Jonathan J. Picker
> Penny Chua
>
> Have I missed anyone?  Did anyone already send me a check and your name is
> not listed?  Please send me a private message and indicate approximate date
> of your mailing.  I haven't checked today's mail yet (it doesn't arrive until
> later in the day).
>
> Also, if there is anyone out there who would still like to take advantage of
> this special offer, please e-mail me of your intention and send me your check
> AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!
>
> Sincerely yours,
>
> June Sakamoto





From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 12:08:02 -0400
Subject: Re: xerox paper

Scott Cramer indited:

+    I have since adapted this lesson for models that I use in mobiles.
+Rather than wet folding, which is impractical for very complex models, I

I think Robert Lang would disagree with you on that, but maybe not, who
knows what seekrits he employees for those wet folded marvels exhibited
at conventions and such... ;-)

+take the finished model, and put it on a support in a large sauce pot with
+an inch of very hot water in it, keeping the model out of the water. Put the
+cover on the pot, and in five or ten minutes, the paper becomes very damp,
+but not wet. Refold and reshape as necessary, bake as above, and the paper
+seems to harden in a way that wants to retain its form.

Actually, the "steam it damp" that you describe is like a turbo version
of a technique for dampening paper that YOSHIZAWA Akira described
during one of his classes at the OUSA convention last year. He wet
folds from paper that has been put into a sealed bag with a damp cloth
(I can't recall what kind of cloth), which then rests overnight. By the
next day the paper is thoroughly damp. I do not recall if he described
his drying technique.

-D'gou

P.S. My Mom taught me a similar techinque for keeping cookies fresh.
Substitute cookies for paper, and bread for a wet cloth. Pick a bread
that you like to use when it gets dry, as it will give all its moisture
to the cookies (at least it did to the kind of chocolate chip cookies
my Mom made).  You can make bread crumbs, french toast, whatever you
would make from dried bread (only this isn't necessarily dried from
age, just from self-sacrifice ;-) )





From: Jose Tomas Buitrago Molina <buitrago@EIEE.UNIVALLE.EDU.CO>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 14:42:08 -0500
Subject: ORIGAMI COLOMBIA 99

Hello.

The Asociacin Vallecaucana de Origamistas is inviting you to participate
in its third convention, ORIGAMI COLOMBIA 99 in Cali, Colombia from
November 12th to 14th. There will be folders from all the country and
overseas countries like USA (Jeremy Shafer) and Dominican Republic,
Venezuela, Mxico, Ecuador, Brazil, Argentina and Chile.

It will a wonderful meeting where you will exchange and share models,
diagrams and all the related stuff.

We are interesed in origanal diagrams for our convention book. If you send
your contribution, we will send you a copy of the booklet. The main idea
is to have as most as possible models from latin american folders and
people around the world. You can send your diagrams by email (I can read
Corel draw, pdf, postscript, word, jpg and gif formats) or via postal mail
to:

Jos Arley Moreno
Carrera 1A9 69-70
Cali -Valle
Colombia

We will wait for you and your contributions. If you are most interesed,
please email me and I will send you further information.

Thank you.

Good luck,

     Jos Tomas Buitrago Molina M.Sc.
     buitrago@eiee.univalle.edu.co
     http://eiee.univalle.edu.co/~buitrago/origami.html

     "Origami y Robtica"





From: Pat Ellis <EllisPS@AOL.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 15:36:27 -0400 (
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer

OK here's where I embarrass myself.  What is JOAS?

Pat





From: Sebastian Marius Kirsch <skirsch@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 15:49:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

On Mon, Aug 09, 1999 at 06:12:47AM -0400, Dave Stephenson wrote:
> Believe me if I could get xerox coloured on one side and white on the
> other I would throw my current paper in the bin :)

Herman van Goubergen produces shaded xerox paper by photocopying a light
blue piece of paper (IIRC) on it.

--
Yours, Sebastian                                       skirsch@t-online.de
                        /or/ sebastian_kirsch@kl.maus.de (no mail > 16KB!)





From: "Chamberlain, Clare" <Clare.Chamberlain@HEALTH.WA.GOV.AU>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 16:57:15 +0800
Subject: help request

Some weeks ago a link was posted that led to a simple 2 page sheet
containing diagrams for basic models and symbols including iris, crane and
candy box.  I have searched the archives to no avail.  Can someone
(privately) tell me where to find this sheet?
And as an aside (I can never resist) all the pronunciation discussion led me
to recall my fist English class when I returned to U.K. aged 11.  We had to
describe a person, so I spoke about a JAL airhostess.  My teacher told me
off quite firmly when I said the woman was wearing a kimono.  "KIMONA is the
word!!"  Funny how I hated that teacher ever since!.





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 14:33:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Question about:  Re: SpamCop detained your email

At 23:48 99/08/05 -0500, you wrote:
>I do not know the answers, but, I'm sure there is nothing to worry about.
>I put my trust in Joseph Wu and I trust he knows what he is doing.
>It sounds like SpamCop is some type of program that makes sure the email
>sent to this list is really from a person and not an automatic spam program.
>If an automatic spam program were to send spam to this list then it would be
>blocked because the spamming program would be too stupid to correctly reply
>to SpamCop's requests/questions.  Joseph, is this correct?  I would assume
>that if you ever get a message *directly* from SpamCop then all you have to
>do is reply and answer its questions.  (if you notice, that email we all
>received was a *quoted* email that was resent from someone; it was not sent
>directly to the list from SpamCop.)

Anna Weathers has cleared up this situation. The origami list does NOT use
SpamCop, and you should now be able to safely delete these SpamCop messages.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
t: 604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331  e: josephwu@ultranet.ca
w: http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 14:43:00 -0700
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases

At 07:58 99/08/08 +0800, Ronald Koh wrote:
>David Whitbeck wrote re 'xerox paper':
>
>(Snip) Bad quality: my left thumb's been sore from folding xerox paper.
>
>
>This need not necessarily be so. I suspect you may be using the fleshy
>part of you thumb/fingers to do the creases. Try using your thumbnail
>and fingernails instead, i.e.:

Get yourself a folding bone. It saves wear and tear on fingers and
fingernails. I just lost mine on the flight back from Decatur...so sad!

For those who don't know, a folding bone (AKA a bone folder) is a polished
piece of bone that is used by bookbinders to reinforce the crease of a book
signature. Paperfolders have found them useful for reinforcing creases while
making origami, especially when using heavier and/or rougher papers.
Bookbinder's supply stores carry them, but art supply stores might not.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
t: 604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331  e: josephwu@ultranet.ca
w: http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 14:56:17 -0700
Subject: Re: How to make Methyl Cellulose for Backcoating?

At 11:20 99/08/08 -0700, you wrote:
>I've made up a batch of CMC Methyl Cellulose (Sodium
>Carboxymethylcellulose, according to the container).
>Here are the questions I've been having:
>
>1) It doesn't seem to dissolve very well. The powder
>remains in small clumps, even when I mix it with a
>mixer. Is this how methyl cellulose is, or is it
>because of the humidity, dirty bowl, age of the methyl
>cellulose, etc.? How do you make the methyl cellulose
>mix?

No, it doesn't dissolve well at first. Don't use a mixer. Put the powder in
a jar, and then add water, stirring constantly. Use enough water to make a
thick gel (somewhere between gelatin ["Jello" for North Americans] and
hair styling gel). Don't worry if it does not mix smoothly. Here's the trick:
let it sit for a few hours. The water will seep into the undissolved blobs.
Add more water, stir, and let sit again. Repeat until you have the desired
consistency.

>2) I'm using much more methyl cellulose than the
>"stock solution" suggested on the container. I've got
>24 oz. of water mixed with 5 t. of methyl cellulose
>currently. What recipes do you use to make the
>backcoating paste?

I don't use a recipe, I rely on consistency instead. The finished paste
needs to be different depending on the type of paper you are using. For
heavier papers, a thicker paste is better. The consistency of hair styling
gel is good. Use Yoshizawa's method of applying the paste and drying. For
thinner papers like unryu tissue and chiri tissue, thinner paste is better.
The consistency should be like raw egg whites. Use the technique described
on my website.

>3) More of a survey question: Do you also mix methyl
>cellulose with your wet-folding water as you wet-fold
>the model? I believe I recall Joseph Wu saying that he
>does, and Michael La Fosse as saying that he doesn't,
>but I don't remember why.

Actually, Michael LaFosse wet folds with methyl cellulose while I usually do
not. It's a matter of taste and of desired result. Adding paste to the water
(or just wet folding with paste) really adds to your ability to sculpt with
the paper. Indeed, if you are wetfolding with backcoated paper, then using
paste is the best way to go because using just water will often cause the
layers to separate. Wetfolding with elephant hide or parchment is probably
better with just water because the paper already has a large amount of
sizing. When folding with thinner backcoated papers (made with my
technique), sculpting can be achieved with just the sweat from your fingers
(or dampen them with a wet sponge if you have perpetually dry hands). It is
usually enough to redissolve the methyl cellulose enough to sculpt with.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
t: 604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331  e: josephwu@ultranet.ca
w: http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca





From: Carol Martinson <carolm47@YAHOO.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 15:40:14 -0700
Subject: Help: Names of Creators & Model Titles

I cannot read Japanese, so I cannot tell who the creators are of some
models or even the correct names of the models.  Could somebody help?

The first one comes from Oru.  A photograph appears in Oru No. 8,
Spring 1995, on p. 18.  Diagrams for this model are in Oru Quarterly
Diagrams #2 starting on page 36.  It definitely appears to be a
dandelion, but I cannot tell for sure, nor can I translate the
creator's name.

The second one also appears in Oru No. 8 on p. 9 and is diagrammed in
the same issue on p. 155.

The others all come from Toshie Takahama's Origami Flowers.  They all
have names of the flowers in English, but The creators may not all be
the authors.

Lily on p. 16.  It may be traditional.

Star of Jerusalem on p. 102.

Any help on any of these would be greatly appreciated.

Carol Martinson
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com





From: Foldmaster@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 16:37:57 -0400 (
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer

Dear all,

I am sorry for not being clearer on my last e-mail to the list regarding
membership to the new JOAS publication.  I hope the following answers
everyone's questions!  :)

JOAS is Japanese Origami Academic Society located in Tokyo, Japan.  This new
magazine will replace the old Tanteidan newsletter.  It is published six
times a year (bi-monthy) at a cost of $40.00 US for foreign subscribers.  It
has wonderful diagrams of models that are not available anywhere else.
Various levels, too!  Some color photographs, many articles (only in
Japanese, unfortunately) but the wealth of diagrams makes the publications
worth it!

Yours,

June Sakamoto

PS:  I leave for Tokyo this Saturday, Aug. 14th so if you want to subscribe,
I'll need your check for $40.00 as well as personal info. by then.  Required
info:  name, mailing address, tel/fax nos., birthdate, e-mail address,
occupation & hobbies.

Please e-mail me of your intent to subscribe with your personal data so that
I can fill in the order form for you while I await your check by snail mail





From: Foldmaster@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 16:43:28 -0400 (
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer

Dear all,

Hi!  Sorry for the confusion regarding my recent posting to this list about
membership to JOAS.  I hope the following explanation answers everyone's
questions:

JOAS is Japanese Origami Academic Society located in Tokyo, Japan.  This new
magazine will replace the old Tanteidan newsletter.  It is published six
times a year (bi-monthy) at a cost of $40.00 US for foreign subscribers.  It
has wonderful diagrams of models that are not available anywhere else.
Various levels, too!  Some color photographs, many articles (only in
Japanese, unfortunately) but the wealth of diagrams makes the publications
worth it!

Yours,

June Sakamoto

PS:  I leave for Tokyo this Saturday, Aug. 14th so if you want to subscribe,
I'll need your check for $40.00 as well as personal info. by then.  Required
info:  name, mailing address, tel/fax nos., birthdate, e-mail address,
occupation & hobbies

Also, please e-mail me of your intent to subscribe with your personal info.
so that I can fill out the necessary order forms in advance while waiting for
the check in the mail.





From: Isa Miller <-isa-@EXCITE.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 17:01:47 -0700 (
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases

On         Mon, 9 Aug 1999 14:43:00 -0700, Joseph Wu wrote:

> Get yourself a folding bone. It saves wear and tear on fingers and
> fingernails.

I have a folding bone. I got it from Origami USA and I love it. I still use
my fingernails for making sharp points, etc. but the bone comes in very
handy for those creases that you just kinda have to fold by eye. The ones
that don't line up with an edge somewhere. I just lay the bone alone the
place where I want the crease and fold the paper up. Gives me a nice
straight line and the ends of the crease are where they should be---not a
millimeter off at one end.

Is this cheating? I always wondered!

Isa

________________________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com
Talk online at http://voicechat.excite.com





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 17:58:48 -0700
Subject: Folding Bone

I used to use a sewing needle to make the creases, is that close?  That was
my eccentric, I must have the crease sharp phase.  I was obsessed with the
notion that my fingers wouldn't be able to make the creases as sharp and
crisp as I'd wish to fold complex models.  That was a couple of years ago
and I'm much better now

What made me quit?  Folding 3d models.  I decided that there is more to a
crease than just it's sharpness.  Isn't it funny that I've gone full circle
and am now folding xerox paper making sharp creases to keep the thickness
down complaining about soreness?

David





From: Dave Stephenson <EruditusD@AOL.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:09:04 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions

> Believe me if I could get xerox coloured on one side and white on the
> other I would throw my current paper in the bin :)

>>Herman van Goubergen produces shaded xerox paper by photocopying a light
>>blue piece of paper (IIRC) on it... Sebastian.

Thanks for the tip, i'll try this at work tomorrow. It's amazing that you can
photocopy anything whatsoever by simply saying that its for a presentation...
no one ever questions this :) )

Dave

************************************
* Eruditus has left the building *





From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:10:15 -0400
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases

I'm so glad to hear folding bones mentioned...I have been using one for
quite a while now...and it sure has saved my fingertips and nails...and what
a wonderful crisp fold you get using it...

everyone should have one (or 2)...I believe Fascinating Folds carries them
in 2 sizes...

Beth
Have a Bob Day
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/origami.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
To: <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases

> At 07:58 99/08/08 +0800, Ronald Koh wrote:
> >David Whitbeck wrote re 'xerox paper':
> >
> >(Snip) Bad quality: my left thumb's been sore from folding xerox paper.
> >
> >
> >This need not necessarily be so. I suspect you may be using the fleshy
> >part of you thumb/fingers to do the creases. Try using your thumbnail
> >and fingernails instead, i.e.:
>
> Get yourself a folding bone. It saves wear and tear on fingers and
> fingernails. I just lost mine on the flight back from Decatur...so sad!
>
> For those who don't know, a folding bone (AKA a bone folder) is a polished
> piece of bone that is used by bookbinders to reinforce the crease of a
book
> signature. Paperfolders have found them useful for reinforcing creases
while
> making origami, especially when using heavier and/or rougher papers.
> Bookbinder's supply stores carry them, but art supply stores might not.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
> t: 604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331  e: josephwu@ultranet.ca
> w: http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca





From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 19:23:06 -0400
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases

Sorry...it's not Fascinating Folds that has the bones...it's Origami USA
http://www.origami-usa.org/

Beth
Have a Bob Day
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/origami.html
----- Original Message -----
From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
To: <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: From Xerox Paper: Making Painless Creases





From: "Deborah P. Van Treuren" <deborahv@N-JCENTER.COM>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 20:08:36 -0400
Subject: David Whitbecks comments on "Stegy"

Just so you know, yes that stegosaurus is as time consuming as it looks
and if you want it really nice, it takes lots of time. I have folded
several and the average time is about four hours. You want to use thin
strong paper and the first time you really want to make it big because
of all those plates.....
Deborah "another depraved paperfolder and masochist for complicated
models" Van Treuren





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 20:32:42 -0700
Subject: modular origami

Hi!  Since I know many of you fold modular origami, and I am rather new to
the area I wondered if there was any advice that any of you could give me
on connecting modules, etc. Thanks.

David





From: origami <listaori@JET.ES>
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 20:46:13 +0200
Subject: New Exhibition in Spain(models)

   Hi all membership

I am president og Gaditano Group, we have our new Exhibition in October, We
     need your models, all models are welcome. I promise enclose you Photos and
     Diagrams.

Please visit my WEB (with nice diagrmas for you). Have you That I want a link
     yo your WEBSITE?.

Special thanks to P. Budai, D. Lister, Mr. Nakajima, anathea Banuk ,Kimberli
     Shuck. and June Sakamoto. and of course J. toms Buitrago

Personal Address

Fco Ignacio Molina Gmez
C/ Concepcin n 40
11510 Puerto Real (Cdiz)
Spain

Thanks to all

yours sincerely.
____________________________

Fco Ignacio Molina Gomez
President of Gaditano Origami Group
e-mail:igmolina@jet.es
http://web.jet.es/igmolina           nice diagrams





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 00:04:24 -0700
Subject: pinwheel box

For those of you that have Joyful Origami Boxes by the Queen of Modular
Origami, if you turn to square box C and skip step 6 and finish the fold.
You now have a pinwheel box.  I just wanted to point this out since I've
just thought it up and folded it.

David





From: "Dennis W. Manasco" <dmanasco@IONET.NET>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 01:31:36 -0500
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer

June --

I would like to subscribe/join but I may have waited too long. I can
get the check off tomorrow, but only if I have your address.

Just in case, my information is as follows:

name:       Dennis W. Manasco
address:  4921 East 15th Street, Tulsa, OK, 74112-6201
tel:  918-834-2896
fax:  918-834-2902
birthdate: 9/26/57
e-mail:  dmanasco@ionet.net
occupation: Property Management
hobbies: origami, computers, music, books

Thanks,
-=-D

dmanasco@ionet.net

>Dear all,
>
>I am sorry for not being clearer on my last e-mail to the list regarding
>membership to the new JOAS publication.  I hope the following answers
>everyone's questions!  :)
>
>JOAS is Japanese Origami Academic Society located in Tokyo, Japan.  This new
>magazine will replace the old Tanteidan newsletter.  It is published six
>times a year (bi-monthy) at a cost of $40.00 US for foreign subscribers.  It
>has wonderful diagrams of models that are not available anywhere else.
>Various levels, too!  Some color photographs, many articles (only in
>Japanese, unfortunately) but the wealth of diagrams makes the publications
>worth it!
>
>
>Yours,
>
>June Sakamoto
>
>PS:  I leave for Tokyo this Saturday, Aug. 14th so if you want to subscribe,
>I'll need your check for $40.00 as well as personal info. by then.  Required
>info:  name, mailing address, tel/fax nos., birthdate, e-mail address,
>occupation & hobbies.
>
>Please e-mail me of your intent to subscribe with your personal data so that
>I can fill in the order form for you while I await your check by snail mail





From: "Dennis W. Manasco" <dmanasco@IONET.NET>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 01:39:09 -0500
Subject: Re: JOAS Membership Offer -- OOps!

Everyone --

Sorry for wasting your bandwidth by sending a note to the list that
should have gone to June.

I should have checked what address the reply button was using....

-=-D

dmanasco@ionet.net





From: sychen@EROLS.COM
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 05:43:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Unicycling

Cool! BTW I did disign an Unicyclist, a Juggler, and a Unicycle
Juggler model, which were displayed in OrigamiUSA convention
'99. I don't have any pictures on them. But they would be in
ORCA (I suppose).

Sy Chen (sychen@erols.com)

--- Original Message ---
Leigh Halford <Leigh451@AOL.COM> Wrote on
        Tue, 10 Aug 1999 08:11:33 EDT
 ------------------
I am a bit of a circus freak and have been struggling with a
unicyclist at
the moment. I have managed to make one using the elias base,
but it is still
not very pleasing. Does anybody out there have a decent design
please,
please, beg, beg? Oh when struggling with the one wheeled bike
rider I came
up with a really cool skateboarder (or surfer or snowboarder!)
which is now
posted at http://hometown.aol.com/origami451/index.html.
Ta!

-----
Sent using MailStart.com ( http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html )
The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere!





From: Leigh Halford <Leigh451@AOL.COM>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 08:11:33 -0400 (
Subject: Unicycling

I am a bit of a circus freak and have been struggling with a unicyclist at
the moment. I have managed to make one using the elias base, but it is still
not very pleasing. Does anybody out there have a decent design please,
please, beg, beg? Oh when struggling with the one wheeled bike rider I came
up with a really cool skateboarder (or surfer or snowboarder!) which is now
posted at http://hometown.aol.com/origami451/index.html.
Ta!





From: Matthias Gutfeldt <tanjit@BBOXBBS.CH>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 13:32:52 +0200
Subject: Copy art (was RE: Prehistoric Origami & Two questions)

Believe it or nor, using the photocopier is considered an art form by some
people.

Louise Neaderland founded the "International Society of Copier Artists" that
publishes a quarterly full with amazing samples. Their homepage is at
http://members.aol.com/isca4art2b/I.S.C.A.HomePage.html

And here is a fairly recent bibliography:
http://mitpress.mit.edu/e-journals/Leonardo/isast/spec.projects/electrobib.htm
l

Matthias, pushing the button...

>===== Original Message From Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU> =====
>> Believe me if I could get xerox coloured on one side and white on the
>> other I would throw my current paper in the bin :)
>
>>>Herman van Goubergen produces shaded xerox paper by photocopying a light
>>>blue piece of paper (IIRC) on it... Sebastian.
>
>Thanks for the tip, i'll try this at work tomorrow. It's amazing that you can
>photocopy anything whatsoever by simply saying that its for a presentation...
>no one ever questions this :) )





From: Howard Portugal <howardpo@MICROSOFT.COM>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 15:02:21 -0700
Subject: Re: modular origami assembly

I have found that the doll-sized plastic clothespins work quite nicely.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wu, Sonia [mailto:swu@BANSHEE.SAR.USF.EDU]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 2:56 PM
> To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: modular origami assembly
>
>
> David Whitbeck asked for tips on assembling modular origami.
>
> Recently our origami group has been making Fuse boxes which have
> overlapping flaps in the middle of the lid (generally you tuck these
> flaps under part of the adjacent module to lock it all together).
> Things can appear very confusing as you get to the last few units,
> though--seems like loose flaps are EVERYWHERE so it's easy to
> lose your
> bearings.
>
> If essentially installing the last of several units of a
> modular ring or
> box, I find it easiest to lift the next-to-last module up,
> clear of the
> first one.  Sort of a spiral effect, I guess.  It's generally okay if
> this loosens the connections a bit, since you can adjust them later.
> Then fit the last module onto the end.
> Hold both ends of the "spiral" gently but firmly, and
> maneuver the free
> side of the last unit into the free side of the first.  A
> light (but not
> loose) touch helps to keep the paper from crumpling while you coax
> everything into position.
>
> If you need to tuck flaps into place to hold the model
> together but "run
> out of room" as you get to the last few, don't be afraid to
> undo some of
> the flaps temporarily; you've already got the creases and can easily
> replace them.  It's actually easiest to try this all out on something
> like Robert Neale's Magic Star.  This is one of my favorite models,
> diagrammed in Neale & Hull's Origami Plain and Simple--I think it's
> called a "Fidget" in that book--and in most of Gay Merrill Gross's
> books.
>
>
> If you're assembling one of the biggish orb-type pieces, you can try
> putting it together inside a box (perhaps cutting away one or
> two of the
> box walls to give you better access).  You might try assembling it
> inside a plastic grocery bag for light support...maybe even
> combine the
> two by taping the rim of the grocery bag to the corner and
> walls of the
> box...hmmm...hadn't thought of that till now.  Some people use paper
> clips or tiny doll's-size clothespins or itty-bitty electronics-store
> alligator clips to hold things together temporarily.  Sometimes I use
> bits of post-it notes (removable sticky paper) as a temporary measure.
> I absolutely recommend choosing your paper carefully before you start;
> witness my attempt at a many-moduled Fuse piece (sort of a cube with
> pyramidal indentations at the corners and windows with star-patterned
> edges).  Six-inch kami--definitely NOT the way to go on paper choice
> here.  The result was an absolute ordeal to assemble because at that
> size the paper was too flimsy to hold the weight of the piece AND it
> wasn't even very attractive on that scale.  I resorted to using a glue
> stick and chalked it up to experience.
>
> Hope this helps, David!
>
> Sonia Wu
> (Florida, USA)





From: "Wu, Sonia" <swu@BANSHEE.SAR.USF.EDU>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 17:56:01 -0400
Subject: Re: modular origami assembly

David Whitbeck asked for tips on assembling modular origami.

Recently our origami group has been making Fuse boxes which have
overlapping flaps in the middle of the lid (generally you tuck these
flaps under part of the adjacent module to lock it all together).
Things can appear very confusing as you get to the last few units,
though--seems like loose flaps are EVERYWHERE so it's easy to lose your
bearings.

If essentially installing the last of several units of a modular ring or
box, I find it easiest to lift the next-to-last module up, clear of the
first one.  Sort of a spiral effect, I guess.  It's generally okay if
this loosens the connections a bit, since you can adjust them later.
Then fit the last module onto the end.
Hold both ends of the "spiral" gently but firmly, and maneuver the free
side of the last unit into the free side of the first.  A light (but not
loose) touch helps to keep the paper from crumpling while you coax
everything into position.

If you need to tuck flaps into place to hold the model together but "run
out of room" as you get to the last few, don't be afraid to undo some of
the flaps temporarily; you've already got the creases and can easily
replace them.  It's actually easiest to try this all out on something
like Robert Neale's Magic Star.  This is one of my favorite models,
diagrammed in Neale & Hull's Origami Plain and Simple--I think it's
called a "Fidget" in that book--and in most of Gay Merrill Gross's
books.

If you're assembling one of the biggish orb-type pieces, you can try
putting it together inside a box (perhaps cutting away one or two of the
box walls to give you better access).  You might try assembling it
inside a plastic grocery bag for light support...maybe even combine the
two by taping the rim of the grocery bag to the corner and walls of the
box...hmmm...hadn't thought of that till now.  Some people use paper
clips or tiny doll's-size clothespins or itty-bitty electronics-store
alligator clips to hold things together temporarily.  Sometimes I use
bits of post-it notes (removable sticky paper) as a temporary measure.
I absolutely recommend choosing your paper carefully before you start;
witness my attempt at a many-moduled Fuse piece (sort of a cube with
pyramidal indentations at the corners and windows with star-patterned
edges).  Six-inch kami--definitely NOT the way to go on paper choice
here.  The result was an absolute ordeal to assemble because at that
size the paper was too flimsy to hold the weight of the piece AND it
wasn't even very attractive on that scale.  I resorted to using a glue
stick and chalked it up to experience.

Hope this helps, David!

Sonia Wu
(Florida, USA)





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 19:32:19 -0700
Subject: is there anybody alive out there?

The email this week has certainly reduced in quantity.  Is there something
big going on that's dragging people off the list or has the heat finally
vanquished the paperfolders?

David

ps in CA it's so nice it's staying in 70s-80s as if I entered the twilight
zone and 110 Aug. heat waves don't exist





From: david whitbeck <dmwhitbeck@UCDAVIS.EDU>
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 19:32:30 -0700
Subject: Re: modular origami assembly

Thanks.  One of the boxes that bothered me had a pinwheel base and in order
to lock each nearest neighbor (to borrow math physics lingo) you have to
tuck one flap in another which you can't do unless the module is completely
slipped into another so I don't have much leeway with the last module.  Any
suggestions in general for the kinds of units that you have to slide in all
the way.  Also here's something strange.  When I was in Mass. I went to a
craft store and bought some kami that was made by the same brand that makes
the wave, co. is called Y something, anyhow it was folk art or some theme
and I made the base of the hexagon box in Origami Boxes and/or Joyful. And
it came out good.  But when I did it over here from Kotobuki black kami it
came out fluffy!  The bottom fluffed out instead of being a flat plane.
Any ideas on why?  Especially why two different brands of kami would behave
so differently?  Anyone at all can reply by the way, if anyone's alive out
there.

David

>David Whitbeck asked for tips on assembling modular origami.
>
>Recently our origami group has been making Fuse boxes which have
>overlapping flaps in the middle of the lid (generally you tuck these
>flaps under part of the adjacent module to lock it all together).
>Things can appear very confusing as you get to the last few units,
>though--seems like loose flaps are EVERYWHERE so it's easy to lose your
>bearings.
>
>If essentially installing the last of several units of a modular ring or
>box, I find it easiest to lift the next-to-last module up, clear of the
>first one.  Sort of a spiral effect, I guess.  It's generally okay if
>this loosens the connections a bit, since you can adjust them later.
>Then fit the last module onto the end.
>Hold both ends of the "spiral" gently but firmly, and maneuver the free
>side of the last unit into the free side of the first.  A light (but not
>loose) touch helps to keep the paper from crumpling while you coax
>everything into position.
>
>If you need to tuck flaps into place to hold the model together but "run
>out of room" as you get to the last few, don't be afraid to undo some of
>the flaps temporarily; you've already got the creases and can easily
>replace them.  It's actually easiest to try this all out on something
>like Robert Neale's Magic Star.  This is one of my favorite models,
>diagrammed in Neale & Hull's Origami Plain and Simple--I think it's
>called a "Fidget" in that book--and in most of Gay Merrill Gross's
>books.
>
>
>If you're assembling one of the biggish orb-type pieces, you can try
>putting it together inside a box (perhaps cutting away one or two of the
>box walls to give you better access).  You might try assembling it
>inside a plastic grocery bag for light support...maybe even combine the
>two by taping the rim of the grocery bag to the corner and walls of the
>box...hmmm...hadn't thought of that till now.  Some people use paper
>clips or tiny doll's-size clothespins or itty-bitty electronics-store
>alligator clips to hold things together temporarily.  Sometimes I use
>bits of post-it notes (removable sticky paper) as a temporary measure.
>I absolutely recommend choosing your paper carefully before you start;
>witness my attempt at a many-moduled Fuse piece (sort of a cube with
>pyramidal indentations at the corners and windows with star-patterned
>edges).  Six-inch kami--definitely NOT the way to go on paper choice
>here.  The result was an absolute ordeal to assemble because at that
>size the paper was too flimsy to hold the weight of the piece AND it
>wasn't even very attractive on that scale.  I resorted to using a glue
>stick and chalked it up to experience.
>
>Hope this helps, David!
>
>Sonia Wu
>(Florida, USA)





From: Imtiaz Razvi <imtiazrazvi@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 01:55:21 -0700 (
Subject: romance & elegance

Hi

For sheer romance and elegance does anyone know of a more beautiful model
than The Lady and the Swan by L.Vitagliano.
If you haven't seen the model I suggest a visit to the C.D.O. Italian
Website
where you can find a photograph and diagrams.

The only model in the same category i can think of is the Last Waltz
by Elias.

Any views?

Bye.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Imtiaz Razvi <imtiazrazvi@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 01:56:46 -0700 (
Subject: Kawasaki Rose-finally cracked!

Hi

Finally cracked the beautiful rose.
I was forever getting stuck on step 10&11 in OFC.
Through sheer persistence I got through and from then on it is really a case
of personal moulding.

I don't know if its just me but I am not convinced step 10 achieves
anything? Step 11 is clear but seems to have creases that do not exist
previously. Maybe its just me.
When you turn the four points in you do need to fold them in a fair bit
otherwise the model starts to lose its shape.

My advice to those struggling...persist and one day it will all fall in
place.

My end result was pretty good though it can be improved.

anyone any suggestions for the best paper?

Bye.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Imtiaz Razvi <imtiazrazvi@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 01:57:57 -0700 (
Subject: Butterfly Ring

Hi

Does anyone have the diagrams for the Butterfly Ring?
I once had them but alas no longer.
I would really appreciate it if someone could send them to me.
I think they were in a book by Paul Jackson.

Bye.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Dave Stephenson <EruditusD@AOL.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 05:11:57 -0400 (
Subject: Re: romance & elegance

>>For sheer romance and elegance does anyone know of a more beautiful model
>>than The Lady and the Swan by L.Vitagliano.
>>Any views? (imtiazrazv)

Well, a URL for the italian website would be nice, all alta-vista turns up is
swan shaped jack-o-lanterns ... not very romantic really.

************************************
* Eruditus has left the building *





From: Imtiaz Razvi <imtiazrazvi@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 05:48:54 -0700 (
Subject: Re: romance &amp; elegance

Hi
http:/www.essenet.it/cdo

Check the past models of the month section.

bye

>From: Dave Stephenson <EruditusD@AOL.COM>
>Reply-To: Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Subject: Re: romance & elegance
>Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 05:11:57 EDT
>
> >>For sheer romance and elegance does anyone know of a more beautiful
>model
> >>than The Lady and the Swan by L.Vitagliano.
> >>Any views? (imtiazrazv)
>
>Well, a URL for the italian website would be nice, all alta-vista turns up
>is
>swan shaped jack-o-lanterns ... not very romantic really.
>
>************************************
>* Eruditus has left the building *
>************************************

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 06:55:22 -0400
Subject: Re: holiday

How does one stop receiving the list while on vacation?....

Beth
Have a Bob Day
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/origami.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Sjaak Adriaanse <S.Adriaanse@INTER.NL.NET>
To: <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 6:26 AM
Subject: holiday

> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> I will be on holiday until September 2., so I will temporarily unsubscribe
> from the list in order to escape mail flood when I return. If there is
> something I should not miss, send it to my private address
> (<S.Adriaanse@inter.NL.net>). During holiday I will not read mail.
>
> Greetings,
>
> Sjaak
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> We perform the miracles.
>                           Kate Bush





From: BTStern <btstern@BUFFNET.NET>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 06:58:24 -0400
Subject: Re: romance & elegance

Is there a URL for The Last Waltz?

Beth
Have a Bob Day
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/9109/origami.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Imtiaz Razvi <imtiazrazvi@HOTMAIL.COM>
To: <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 4:55 AM
Subject: romance & elegance

> Hi
>
> For sheer romance and elegance does anyone know of a more beautiful model
> than The Lady and the Swan by L.Vitagliano.
> If you haven't seen the model I suggest a visit to the C.D.O. Italian
> Website
> where you can find a photograph and diagrams.
>
> The only model in the same category i can think of is the Last Waltz
> by Elias.
>
> Any views?
>
> Bye.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 07:30:28 -0400
Subject: Re: romance & elegance

+Well, a URL for the italian website would be nice, all alta-vista turns up is
+swan shaped jack-o-lanterns ... not very romantic really.

While the specific URL has been given, the more generic answer to "how do I
find origami-related site foo?" is to check Joseph Wu's website:
        http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca/
Joseph's primary goal is to have links to people and organizations, though
you'll also find galleries and links to sites with diagrams, as well as
information on origami itself. Its possible that Joseph's site might not have
the link your looking for, but its a no brainer to check there (now that you
know about it).

-D'gou
