




From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:28:43 -0600
Subject: Re: paper questions

An answer to Doug's Rollataq (the name sounds like a video game I would
not let my son play) questions:

>what kind of maintenance the roller and stuff needs.  Doesn't it get
>all gummed up if you just set it aside after using it?

Daige, the manufacturer recommends pouring the glue from the dispenser
back into the plastic bottle if you are not going to use the Rollataq for
a month or more. Because the  flip cap on the glue bottle has a small
opening on top and also unscrews from the bottle, it is easy to pour the
glue back.

If you neglect the aparatus, and it dries with glue inside, the whole
thing can be cleaned by soaking in water. ( I know.)

I am going to try Martin's idea of putting plastic wrap over the roller
for storage.

>What happens if you apply it to the
>tissue instead of the foil (to avoid the ruts)?

I just tried applying the Rollataq to a particularly thin piece of tissue
paper. I was surprised that it worked. I thought the tissue would bunch
up or tear, but it didn't. In any case, the ruts that result when you run
the roller across foil disappear when you smooth the foil.

Actually, I pretty much don't use tissue foil, but thought I would try
the Rollataq to see how well it did. I most often use backcoating to get
custom duo paper: If I am folding dry I use the Rollataq. If I will be
wet folding, I use methyl cellulose.

What I wonder is how long the Rollataq adhesive lasts. Although it sounds
like others have had better luck than I have with rubber cement, in my
experience rubber cement becomes brittle, turns paper brown and loses its
adhesive property completely in about15 years. I have more hope for
Rollataq because it is acid free and does not soak through the paper.

Martin, do you know the answer to this?

-Jane





From: good man <jess2800@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 05:49:47 -0500
Subject: Archives

I'm kind of new on the list and need some information.  When  subsribes
to the list refer to going to the archives I don't know where it is.
Please  tell me how to access the archives so that I can become a little
more savvy about what's being referred to in current E-mail.
Thank you and Happy New Year.
                      Jess





From: Martin <mrcinc@SILCOM.COM>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 07:25:39 -0800
Subject: Rollataq

Jane Rosemarin asked, "Martin, do you know the answer to this?"
I do not have an answer to the longevity --- I think the formula is a
special formulation of Ethyl Vinyl Acetate -- which, I believe is what
most "White" glues are.
I started using it for bookbinding to replace "stik-flat" paste which
has been used forever by almost all bookbinders. It , stik-flat, had the
quality of not wrinkling the paper. It was a derivative of the white
paste that was used in grade schools in the 30's and 40's -- remember --
it tasted pretty good? The problem was that it dried brittle and would
tear the paper when folded after drying. The Rollataq adhesive has the
non-wrinkling quality -- but it dries flexible. By the way -- I haven't
tried this -- but I believe the Rollataq adhesive can be successfully
applied with a foam roller or a brush. Has anyone done this??

--
Martin R. Carbone
1227 De La Vina St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Tel: 805-965-5574 Fax: 805-965-2414

WEBSITES: http://www.papershops.com <<or>>
http://www.modelshops.com <<or>> http://www.silcom.com/~mrcinc





From: Robby/Laura <morassi@ZEN.IT>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:42:39 +0100
Subject: A technical note on The Origamian

D'gou,
At 17.47 14/12/1998 -0500, you wrote:

>I quite agree.  I haven't seen much about this on the list lately, has it
died
>the death of too many volunteers with too many different ideas, or is there
>something happening, a quiet rustling of papers and humming of scanners and
>ticking of OCR programs?

I'm NOT working on the project myself, of course, but as I'm lucky to have
an almost complete collection of The Origamian I've made some trials in a
search for optimal work parameters. IMHO it should be reproduced as it is,
not considering OCR's, hyperlinks or similar useless stuff which would only
be a waste of time and resources (the figures should be scanned separately,
and after all the collection is not as large as an Encyclopaedia or a
dictionary ! A simple table of contents and a reasonably complete
analytical index can be made in a short time "by hand", and added as text
or RTF files....).
With this in mind, we are left with the problem of scanning about 336
pages, 11 1/2 x 14 1/2 inches each, then storing the results on a CD-ROM:

(1) that size would NOT fit a "normal" scanner for home use, which just
accommodates a bit more that an A4 size, i.e. half an Origamian page (a
professional A3-sized scanner would do the job, but it's quite expensive
!). With such a scanner, each page has to be scanned as two separate halves
(about 11 1/2 x 7 1/2"), for a total of about 672 figures.

(2) a good compromise is a "greyscale" (or "B/W photo" option) scanning at
150 dpi (dots per inch): at lower resolution the writings would be hardly
readable, and a higher one is unnecessary and would enormously increase the
file size. For an 11 1/2 x 7 1/2" page, this means a bitmap of roughly 1600
x 1200 pixels (rounded). Greyscale (256 tones) requires one byte per pixel,
so the resulting file would be about 1.9 megabytes if saved as full bitmap
(BMP).

(3) 672 such files would largely exceed the capacity of one CD-ROM, so they
must be either compacted or compressed. These bitmaps are too irregular for
an efficient GIF compacting, which only reduces the file size to about 700
kbytes. A medium JPEG compression is much better, the loss in quality is
tolerable and the file size is reduced to about 330 kbytes. If you want to
see the result, I have stored one such pages (336 kbytes) here:

http://www.zen.it/~morassi/pics/origamia.jpg

(please note that I'll only leave it there for a limited time !)

(4) Don't expect it to fit your screen, unless you have a resolution higher
than 1600 x 1200 (!!). Don't even try and resize it to your screen size,
the writings would be hardly readable even if you have a 20" monitor like
mine..... The better solution is a graphic program with a hand-cursor
scrolling facility (a good shareware is LView Pro), or you can use the
scrolling bars. Printing the file with a good quality laser printer will
shrink the figure to an A4-sized page, very close to the original.

Hope this helps. Happy Christmas and New Year to all !

Roberto





From: Hatori Koshiro <hatori@JADE.DTI.NE.JP>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 02:14:24 +0900
Subject: Web Site Update

Hello all,

I updated my web site with new designs and animations.
I will add more and more animations.
Enjoy!

 _ _ _ _ _
|         |  Hatori Koshiro (Koshiro is my first name.)
|_._._._._|          hatori@jade.dti.ne.jp
|         |      http://www.jade.dti.ne.jp/~hatori/
|_ _ _ _ _|_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
 If they keep on risking failure, they're still artists. (S.Jobs)





From: Robby/Laura <morassi@ZEN.IT>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 16:28:10 +0100
Subject: Dividing into thirds

Hi all !

If you don't belong to the "purist" Party (just-my-hands-and-the-paper),
for which the "trial & error" approach is the best and simplest one, here
is an extremely simple trick to divide any square into thirds, fifths or
whatever else:

(1) take a large sheet of graph paper (not absolutely necessary: any
rectangular sheet of paper with a pair of orthogonal axes traced near the
left + bottom sides will do. Or, you can even use the left+bottom sides as
axes, with no traces at all !)
(2) draw a slant line with a slope of 30 degrees (easiest way: mark any
point with co-ordinates (x, x/3) and draw a line through this and the origin)

That's ALL ! If you align a square of paper (any size) carefully along the
x/y axes, the slant line will cross its right side at exactly 1/3. With the
same method, you can add more guide-lines with different slopes. e.g. to
mark 1/5, 3/8 (dollar bill proportions), 1/sqrt(2) (silver rectangle),
1/sqrt(3) (for Terada's modules), etc.

Hope this helps !

Roberto
--
         _\|/_
        ( o o )
=====-oOO-(_)-OOo-========+
Roberto Morassi           |
Via Palestro 11           |  Please DON'T quote my full
51100 PISTOIA             |  message in reply... I KNOW
ITALY                     |  what I have written ! :-)
tel & fax (+)39-0573-20436|
E-mail <morassi@zen.it>   |





From: Robby/Laura <morassi@ZEN.IT>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 02:27:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Dividing into thirds

Myself (!!),
At 16.28 19/12/1998 +0100, you wrote (= I wrote !):

>(2) draw a slant line with a slope of 30 degrees (easiest way: mark any
>point with co-ordinates (x, x/3)

Sorry for a stupid mistake.... of course I meant an angle equivalent to
arctan(1/3), which has nothing to do with 30 degrees !!! <8-(

Roberto





From: good man <jess2800@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 05:28:19 -0500
Subject: Archives

Thank you all for your response to my question about accessing the
archives.
I am overwhelmed by the wealth of resources. Well here I go on my
adventure into the Origami past.
                         Jess





From: Origami <origami@ORIGAMI.NET>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 07:17:31 -0500
Subject: Re: ORIGAMI Digest - 18 Dec 1998 to 19 Dec 1998

Hi,

It's been awhile since I've posted, but I guess it's time for an update.

Origami.net is available to those who need an origami home page.  We
are hosting several, and have had some ups and downs -- the last of
which was a hack to the system last week that required us to change all
the passwords and reset the system.  No data was lost, but if you have
an account on Origami.net you probably can't access it.  Please send to
me and I'll give you the new passwords.

I'm told that starting in January -- towards the end, I'll have more
day-to-day flexibility with the servers -- ie: a way to add users without
having to go through the low-level process I do now.  That means that
it will be easier to get the things done that need to be done.

There are several home pages being hosted there, and we can also host
pages or directories for people who have a limited webpage space, but
would like to make origami files available.  This *is* limited to
origami files, but since they can be large they can quickly fill up a
persons daily workspace.  Also, I've noticed a few origami pages that
have been spread over several servers to accommodate the space --
Origami.net can help there too - by providing one place to put all the
files.

This is brief, but I thought I'd post a quickie at this time of the
year to say Origami.net is continuing -- and your support of the
bookstore there has been appreciated (it's in no way supporting the
server -- but it's appreciated -- several hundred books have been sold,
so I know the area is well read!!).  The area *is* in need of updating,
so if anyone has time to generate an update to it, you can easily see
the page source to see the format of the links, and your efforts will
be appreciated by many!

Happy Holidays!

-rsp-
Pugdog Enterprises, Inc.





From: Michael Abrahams <michabe@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 07:42:14 -0800 (
Subject: Stephen O'Hanlon's Fat Cat

I'm new to the list, but I think that this is one of the best things on
the net. Right now, I need some help. I was surfing about one week ago
when I saw diagrams for Stephen O'Hanlon's fat cat. However, I have been
unable to find it again. Could someone please tell me which website to
visit to locate this model again?

Thanks,
Michael Abrahams
Jamaica, West Indies

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:34:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Good Origami Books?

>At 03:14 PM 12/18/98 -0500, Kari Shiozaki <rhapsody@UMICH.EDU> wrote:
>
>>I know the basics of Origami but want to learn more advanced Origami.
>>
>>Could you be so kind to recommend few books?

Well, I love the Kasahara books too, but I don't think they actually
provide good explanations of how to do complex techniques like closed
sinks.

To work on learning advanced methods I would recommend one of Robert Lang's
books. Most of his books have great "how-to" sections in the front and the
diagrams are nice and clear. His first book "The Complete Book of Origami"
has some nice running explanations at the bottom of diagrams. I would also
highly recommend J.C. Nolan's book "Creating Origami" for learning and
understanding complex folding.

Just remember that these complex models rarely come out right the first
time...or the second...or ???

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Michie Sahara <michies@WESTWORLD.COM>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:51:23 -0800
Subject: Re: "Origami...Rokoan Style"

Thank you for your interest.  "Origami...Rokoan Style" is $22.50 + S&H of
$3.00.  Please let me know if you are interested in purchasing this book.
Please make a check out to Michie Sahara and send it to P.O. Box 11423,
Burbank, CA 91510.  Thanks.  Michie
-----Original Message-----
From: Raleigh Adams <kftl@NS.NET>
To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: "Origami...Rokoan Style"

>.  If you are interested please let me know.  Michie Sahara
>
>i cetainly am,,,could you contact me offline? thanks /..Linda





From: Andy Carpenter <Andy.Carpenter@MCI.COM>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:01:26 -0700
Subject: Webpage update - diagrams for squirrel

All

I have added the diagrams for my squirrel to my webpage. They are in pdf
format and can be found at:
http://carpo.home.mindspring.com/AndysOrigamiPage/diagrams.htm

Thanks to those of you who beta tested the diagrams for me and suggested
various improvements. I have incorporated some of the changes in the version
I have posted on the web. However all comments are still welcome.

Andy
http://carpo.home.mindspring.com/AndysOrigamiPage/home.htm





From: good man <jess2800@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:19:42 -0500
Subject: Fat Cat

Maybe you got there through an E-mail link re:Badger, as I did.  In any
case it's on the Origami Page--
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Academy/4800/anidiag.html
If this is not the right URL, check a message from brett( Dec. 17 1998)
subject: Re: Badgers
It's a real nice fat cat.
jess





From: Meristein@AOL.COM
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:46:21 -0500 (
Subject: Re: storage question

Cheap plastic shoe boxes and other plastic storage units from the $1 store (or
Pic 'n Save since you're in SoCal) are a good way to keep 3D stuff; not only
will the models not be crushed, you can pretty much see what's in the boxes.

Fresh from SoCal myself, Merida





From: Sebastian Marius Kirsch <skirsch@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:17:28 +0100
Subject: Re: ORIGAMI Digest - 18 Dec 1998 to 19 Dec 1998

Hi Robert!

On Sun, 20 Dec 1998, Origami wrote:
> It's been awhile since I've posted, but I guess it's time for an update.

Yes, it's the same for my pages. ;-)

> -- the last of which was a hack to the system last week that required us
> to change all the passwords and reset the system.  No data was lost, but
> if you have an account on Origami.net you probably can't access it.

Great. :-/ Can you send me a new password for the od account? I planned to
do an update in the old year, so it'd be nice to actually be able to log
into the account. ;)

Yours, Sebastian                                       skirsch@t-online.de
                        /or/ sebastian_kirsch@kl.maus.de (no mail > 16KB!)





From: "K.A. Lundberg" <klundber@MNSINC.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:52:59 -0500
Subject: Re: paper questions

Jane:
+AD4-I just tried applying the Rollataq to a particularly thin piece of
tissue
+AD4-paper. I was surprised that it worked. I thought the tissue would
bunch
+AD4-up or tear, but it didn't. In any case, the ruts that result when you
run
+AD4-the roller across foil disappear when you smooth the foil.

+AF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBf-
I have done this several times attaching two sheets of tissue paper
together mainly for bird and flower models.  I found with tissue foil
it was easier to apply the glue to the foil however.

Jane:
+AD4-What I wonder is how long the Rollataq adhesive lasts.
+AF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8AXwBfAF8-
I also don't know how long it will last.  I do know that one model I
made of tissue foil about 5 years ago hasn't lost its flexibility or
adhesion.  It has been displayed in what I consider a high traffic
area, on top of a friend's computer in a busy law office, all that
time.  Maybe Daige has some test data on this.

Kalei - klundber+AEA-mnsinc.com +AHwAfA- ICQ 23969466
http://www.monumental.com/klundber





From: Rakostar@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 11:13:27 -0500 (
Subject: Dresdens

On Martha Stewart's TV program she talked to a lady who collected Christmas
tree ornaments that she called "Dresdens."  She said they were pressed paper
that were made in Germany, pre-WW1.  They looked charming.  I wondered if
anyone knows if you can make them, or if there is any folding involved.   Rae





From: David <tamagotchi@MINDSPRING.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 12:03:30 -0500
Subject: Moravian Star

I'm from central North Carolina and one of the more popular Christmas
     decorations
in this area is the Moravian Star.  The star has 26 points and symbolizes the
star that led the Wise Men as well as the Christ Child.  The first stars were
made in Niesky, Germany around 1850.  I suppose they are so popular here because
the Moravians founded the village of Salem, North Carolina ... presently know as
Winston-Salem, NC.  Is anyone aware of any books or instructions for creating
     the
stars?  This isn't origami in the true sense, but the stars are a beauty to
behold and I think anyone would be proud to own or make one.  Thanks!





From: Bernie Cosell <bernie@FANTASYFARM.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 13:11:31 -0500
Subject: Cutting a square without a diagonal

I think I know the answer here, but I'll ask anyway: I'd like to cut a
rectangle down to being a square... but the fold I'll be doing does *NOT*
want a diagonal folded.  Is there some trick for making a square that
wouldn't involve any creases across the square part?  [as I type that, I
realize that it *might* be possible: the two most common sizes are A4 and
US Letter [I'm going to be using US letter] and it occurred to me that
there might be a trick, specific to each paper size, for folding the
*stub* [about which I don't care if there are a lot of folds], and then
cleanly cutting an unmarked square...

  /Bernie\
--
Bernie Cosell                     Fantasy Farm Fibers
mailto:bernie@fantasyfarm.com     Pearisburg, VA
    -->  Too many people, too few sheep  <--





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 18:11:37 -1000
Subject: Tomoko Fuse address

Hi people who attend origami conventions,
        Does anyone have Tomoko Fuse's address?  If so, may I please have it?
Thanks in advance.    Aloha, Jan





From: Robert Allan Schwartz <notbob@TESSELLATION.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 17:25:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Cutting a square without a diagonal

Take a compass, the kind used in geometry classes. Put the sharp metal
point on one corner of what will end up being the square. Put the pencil
point on the other corner of what will end up being the square. Now use
that measured distance to mark off the proper length along the too-long
side. Repeat on the other side. You now have two marks; connect them with a
straight line. Cut along that line. You now have a square.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Allan Schwartz       | voice (617) 499-9470
Senior Instructor           | fax   (617) 249-0330
Tessellation Training       | email notbob@tessellation.com
955 Massachusetts Ave. #354 | URL   http://www.tessellation.com/index.html
Cambridge, MA 02139         | Take our course: "Design Patterns in C++"





From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 17:34:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Cutting a square without a diagonal

Bernie Cosell wrote:

>I'd like to cut a
>rectangle down to being a square... but the fold I'll be doing does *NOT*
>want a diagonal folded.

I found this method in Paul Jackson's Complete Origami Course. It's too
easy!

Cut or tear off a strip of what you are sure will be part of the excess
paper. Then hold the clean edge of this strip against a long edge of the
main piece of paper, with corners matching, and mark the point where the
strip ends. Repeat on the other long edge, and cut along the line formed
by joining the two points.

-Jane





From: Michael Abrahams <michabe@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 20:04:29 -0800 (
Subject: Fat Cat

Jess, thanks for the information. This time I made a note of the
website.
Michael

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: "Llana L. Harmon" <llharmon@PRIMENET.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 21:47:36 -0700
Subject: Fort Worth / Dallas folders

Any advanced folders in the DFW area who would like to do some folding
this Christmas?  E-mail me at:
llharmon@primenet.com                            or
lewdaman@flash.net      (after 12/25)

Thanks,

David A. Harmon
Mesa, AZ





From: Perry Bailey <pbailey@OPENCOMINC.COM>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 22:22:28 -0600
Subject: thanks

Richard,

Thanks very much for the card and I am sorry but I lost your
e-mail address and nothing I could send by snail mail stands a
chance of making it in time for christmas.  Merry Christmas to
you and yours!

As for the rest of you....

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!!

Perry Bailey

--
pbailey@opencominc.com
http://www.afgsoft.com/perry/  <---- Origami Web Page with
Diagrams!
ICQ 23622644





From: Vicky Mihara Avery <vavery@WENET.NET>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 00:25:41 -0800
Subject: Origami Cranes Display in SF

Happy Holidays to all!

A belated announcement about my installation of 280 pure white cranes
scattered on 18 japanese pine trees in the lobby of the landmark Bank of
American building in San Francisco.  This holiday decoration will
probably be up only through this week so if you happened to be downtown
please check it out - the lit trees are pretty spectacular at night.

Best wishes for more great folding in the new year!

Vicky Mihara Avery





From: Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 08:48:26 -0500
Subject: reviving dying swans

I had the bad luck to leave a box full of origami behind when I moved from
Iowa.  It sat in one of those mini-storage sheds for over two years.  I
should be happy that it wasn't completely covered in mildew.

One of my favorite pieces was the Pat Crawford swan that I made out of some
*very* expensive Japanese chiyogami paper at least a dozen years ago.  And
it looked pretty bad.  Just enough crushed and flattened that it wouldn't
sit up on its own anymore.  But the paper was too nice to just throw it
away.

On a whim, I had just bought a spray bottle of fabric stiffener.  The one I
found is called "Stiffen Stuff."  (Does anyone know if this is a cellulose
derivative?)  So I closed my eyes and gave it a shot.  At first it was like
spraying the thing with water--all the details seemed to flatten out
completely and it seemed as if the whole thing was going to unfold on me.

But as it started to dry (and I did saturate the thing!) everything started
to come back, even details that were long lost, such as the ruffles in the
wings and tail.  I was able to reposition the head and reshape the beak.

I know that this won't work for all kinds of models, but if you have
something made out of fairly *soft* paper that has lost its initial
crispness, this might be a workable solution.  What I used left no
detectable residue.  I was more than pleased with the results.  It just
goes to show you there's no substitute for high quality paper.  Now my swan
is back in a display case where it belongs.

Good luck with your old models!

Rob
robert.moes@snet.net





From: Nick Robinson <nick@CHEESYPEAS.DEMON.CO.UK>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:10:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Cutting a square without a diagonal

Bernie Cosell <bernie@FANTASYFARM.COM> sez

>Is there some trick for making a square that
>wouldn't involve any creases across the square part?

Might be too obvious, but fold one sheet, then use it as a template to
cut or mark/cut the rest...

all the best,

Nick Robinson

email           nick@cheesypeas.demon.co.uk
homepage        http://www.cheesypeas.demon.co.uk - all new look!
BOS homepage    http://www.rpmrecords.co.uk/bos/
RPM homepage    http://www.rpmrecords.co.uk - now with RealAudio clips!





From: Hatori Koshiro <hatori@JADE.DTI.NE.JP>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:36:57 +0900
Subject: Re: Cutting a square without a diagonal

There is a trick for A4 (or 1:r2) size.

Bring CD onto AD to make a crease of 45 degrees.

 A+-----------------------------------------+D
  |                                      ---|
  |                                   ---   |
  |                                ---      |
  |                             ---         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
  |                                         |
 B+-----------------------------------------+C

Bring CD onto the crease and fold all the way.

 A+-----------------------------------------*D
  |                                      --/|
  |                                   --- / |
  |                                ---   /  |
  |                             ---     /   |
  |                                    /    |
  |                                   /     |
  |                                  /      |
  |                                 /       |
  |                                /        |
  |                               /         |
  |                              /          |
  |                             /           |
 B+----------------------------/------------+C

ABEF is a square.
                               F
 A+----------------------------+------------*D
  |                            |         --/|
  |                            |      --- / |
  |                            |   ---   /  |
  |                            |---     /   |
  |                            |       /    |
  |                            |      /     |
  |                            |     /      |
  |                            |    /       |
  |                            |   /        |
  |                            |  /         |
  |                            | /          |
  |                            |/           |
 B+----------------------------|------------+C
                               E

 _ _ _ _ _
|         |  Hatori Koshiro (Koshiro is my first name.)
|_._._._._|          hatori@jade.dti.ne.jp
|         |      http://www.jade.dti.ne.jp/~hatori/
|_ _ _ _ _|_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
 If they keep on risking failure, they're still artists. (S.Jobs)





From: =?iso-8859-1?B?VEhPUktJTEQgU9hOREVSR8VSRA==?= <thokiyenn@GET2NET.DK>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:57:52 +0100
Subject: Sv:      Cutting a square without a diagonal

To Bernie Cosell.
I presume you have more than one sheet of the format you want to change to a
     square.
Place one sheet across another aligning the short edge of one with the long
     edge of the other;
holding the sheets firmly not permitting them to slide,
fold the extra length over the other long side and cut at the crease you made.
If you align both sheets in the way as above, you can prepare
two squares in one operation.

Thok 98

thok@thok.dk





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 22:06:32 -1000
Subject: shiny paper for mini dragon

Hiya,
        Any recommendations for making mini (2-3 inch) dragon on good quality
paper.  I am planning my Year 2000 (year of the dragon) rock critters
and have tried various paper that I already had...foil, washi and
pearlescent but I'm thinking many of you have made wonderful dragons
with many other paper.  So far I'm leaning toward the pearlescent but my
paper usage has been so restricted to washi and I know there's a lot
more paper that would allow sharper detail and really nice dragon
enhancing paper.
        Also, is Robert Neale, dragon maker on this list?  If not does anyone
know his address?
        (My thanks to Ria who sent Fuse-san's address.)

Aloha, Jan





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 23:48:27 -1000
Subject: Re: shiny paper for mini dragon

Andrew Daw wrote:
>
> Pearlescent paper that I have tends to not fold completely flat when you
> fold it in half.  This gives the final model a tendency to 'spoing' (spread
> out and try to unfold) unless there are 'locking' folds.  It is very nice
> looking but I don't have many models that it would suit.
>  We could probably give you a better idea which paper to use if you tell us
> which Dragon model you are planning to make.
>
So far I've folded Robert Neale's dragon found in the "Flapping Bird".
It's an easy dragon with wonderful wings and tail; even suitable for
folding in miniature which is what I want to do.  My finished dragon
should be no taller than 2 inches.  Aloha, Jan
<http://www.gotomymall.com/hawaii/origami/>
Origami by Jan website...the Fodor folder





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 23:58:30 -1000
Subject: Re: shiny paper for mini dragon

Pat Slider wrote:
>
> >Date:    Thu, 17 Dec 1998 22:06:32 -1000
> >From:    Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
> >Subject: shiny paper for mini dragon
> >
> >Hiya,
> >        Any recommendations for making mini (2-3 inch) dragon on good quality
> >paper.
>
> Best sucess I've had with mini Neale dragons is using the spice packets
> from those instant Lundberg rice mixes. The dragons come out looking like
> they are made from sterling silver.
>
> Of course, you got to like Lundberg rice....
>
> pat slider
> slider@stonecutter.com

I'm not acquainted with Lundberg rice mixes but I will certainly look
them up now.  Mahalo, Jan
--
<http://www.gotomymall.com/hawaii/origami/>
Origami by Jan website...the Fodor folder





From: Jeff Kerwood <jkerwood@USAOR.NET>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:47:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Cutting a square without a diagonal

> I'd like to cut a
> rectangle down to being a square... but the fold I'll be doing does *NOT*
> want a diagonal folded.  Is there some trick for making a square that
> wouldn't involve any creases across the square part?  [

Bernie, I just posted the following in a question I asked the group. If it
was me this is how I would do it.

I use AutoShapes in WORD97 to create a Word document containing the shape
(which are proportionally scaleable by holding down the Shift (I think) key
while dragging to resize (I think there is also an option to say always
keep proportional ?)). Then I print out the shape, lay THAT page on top of
my KAMI (or what ever) and using the printed page as a template cut out
BOTH sheets. This has worked great for me!

Good luck,
Jeff Kerwood





From: Monica L Jones <mony1@JUNO.COM>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:33:55 -0800
Subject: Re: reviving dying swans (and Stiffen Stuff)

On Tue, 22 Dec 1998 08:48:26 -0500 Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
writes:
-snip-
>One of my favorite pieces was the Pat Crawford swan that I made out of
some
>*very* expensive Japanese chiyogami paper at least a dozen years ago.
And
>it looked pretty bad.  Just enough crushed and flattened that it
wouldn't
>sit up on its own anymore.  But the paper was too nice to just throw it
away.
>
>On a whim, I had just bought a spray bottle of fabric stiffener.  The
one I
>found is called "Stiffen Stuff."  (Does anyone know if this is a
cellulose
>derivative?)
-snip-

>I know that this won't work for all kinds of models, but if you have
>something made out of fairly *soft* paper that has lost its initial
>crispness, this might be a workable solution.  What I used left no
>detectable residue.  I was more than pleased with the results.
-snip-

When I saw this, I just had to relate my experience!  I just finished
making some flowers for my mother for Christmas out of mulberry paper
stiffened with Stiffen Stuff.  I bought the paper thinking it would look
very good as flowers, but I didn't think it through well enough before
hand.  The first one I folded would not hold it's shape because the paper
was too soft.  I next tried making paper-foil with it, but that made the
flower look very unnatural and heavy.  In my desperation, I got out the
bottle of Stiffen Stuff that I already had for other craft projects and
saturated one square of paper.  After hanging to dry (I tried a bit of
wet folding with it, but it's too sticky), the paper was crisp enough to
hold it's shape but still foldable.  It also looked a bit more shiny
(sort of like a cross between mulberry paper and glassine, if that makes
any sense at all).  After folding, I shaped the flower by spraying it
with a bit more Stiffen Stuff and letting it dry (held in the proper
shape).  Quite satisfactory!  I stiffened a bunch of paper squares and
folded a total of 12 very nice flowers.

In the process, I learned the following:
-using too much Stiffen Stuff makes the paper too stiff and fragile to
fold (models tear on fold lines), so it can be over done
-it will dissolve small amounts of some dyes (my paper was red, and it
left pink drips over where it dried)
-Stiffen Stuff is the devil's own to clean up if spilled, but will
supposedly soften with warm water.  I found rubbing alcohol to work best
for cleaning up drips.

I also sprayed the first, too-floppy to use, flower after it was done,
and it then stayed in the proper shape!  If I ever decide to make flowers
out of mulberry paper again, I may spray the paper VERY lightly first and
then use additional Stiffen Stuff on the finished models to get the right
form.

>From my experience with Stiffen Stuff on fabric, I believe it will make
the flowers I made much less susceptible to humidity, so I may try it on
models made from stiffer paper that I want to be long-lasting.  However,
it may not work as well on papers that aren't as soft (it needs to soak
into the paper).

Finally, the finished flowers are very stiff.  I'm not entirely happy
with that, but they look great so I can live with it.  Purists may object
strongly to treating models this way, and I even wish I hadn't had to,
but Christmas is a hard deadline and I was out of other options!!!!

Monica Jones

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From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:38:28 -0500
Subject: Chameleon Query...

To any and all holiday folders who aren't swamped by last minute preparations
(let along last minute foldig!)

I've been practicing Luis Bas Arrechea's Chameleon from "Papiroflexia: A
Vueltas Con El Papel," and was curious if anyone on this list has been over
this ground before me and would be willing to pass on some tips.   I've
checked Namir Gharaibeh's Errata page already, as well as the archives.

The crimp in step 13, which swivels the flaps making the legs, seems to always
result in a mushing of paper for me.  Have I misread the landmarks for the
swivel, or missed something else?

In step 17, there are two mountain folds shown on the head, to start forming
the tongue and upper jaw shape.  It looks like the long mountain fold and
accompanying solid arrow head, indicate a sink, and that seems to work OK, at
least in isolation.  There is another mountain fold shown along the bottom
edge of what will be the upper jaw.  I can't figure out what do to with that,
it seems like a bug in the diagrams, since the form shown in step 18 still has
paper where the mountain "jaw line" fold would have moved it.

Thanks, and hope you had/have a Sunny Solstice!

-D'gou





From: Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:52:20 -0500
Subject: Re: reviving dying swans (and Stiffen Stuff)

>I also sprayed the first, too-floppy to use, flower after it was done,
>and it then stayed in the proper shape!  If I ever decide to make flowers
>out of mulberry paper again, I may spray the paper VERY lightly first and
>then use additional Stiffen Stuff on the finished models to get the right
>form.

>Monica Jones

Thanks for the tips!

I agree that it seems to be the best strategy to apply lightly first and
then additional as needed.  Also, if you've been doing a lot of reshaping,
do remember to wash your hands before your fingertips become completely
stiffened!    :)

Rob





From: Torsten Drees <torsten.drees@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 21:02:14 +0100
Subject: Re: Dividing into thirds

> Hi all !

> If you don't belong to the "purist" Party (just-my-hands-and-the-paper),
> for which the "trial & error" approach is the best and simplest one, here
> is an extremely simple trick to divide any square into thirds, fifths or
> whatever else:

Hi Roberto!

Your method is very useful, i think.

I have a method to divide into any number, without any tools.

See
" http://home.t-online.de/home/torsten.drees  "
and klick "help on division" at the end of the page.

You can see also my construction system.

(this page is temporary and will be moved to an other place soon)

I hope it will be useful to you, too.

               *
           o >>#<<
           |>>#o#<<
           >>##|#@<<o
           >>#o###<<|
         o>>##|#o##<<
         |>>@###|##<< o
         >>#o#####o#<<|
       o>>##|@##o#|##<<o
       |>>######|##@#<<|
      o>>###@#####o###<<
    o |>>#########|###<< o
    | >>##@##o#@####@##<<|
 o  >>###o###|#####o####<<  o
 | >>#@##|#####@###|###@#<< |
 >>###@###@#######@########<<
>>###          @          ###<<
               @
               @

Torsten





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 21:16:39 -0700
Subject: Re: reviving dying swans

>Date:    Tue, 22 Dec 1998 08:48:26 -0500
>From:    Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
>Subject: reviving dying swans

.
.
.

>I know that this won't work for all kinds of models, but if you have
>something made out of fairly *soft* paper that has lost its initial
>crispness, this might be a workable solution.  What I used left no
>detectable residue.  I was more than pleased with the results.  It just
>goes to show you there's no substitute for high quality paper.  Now my swan
>is back in a display case where it belongs.

Definitely a trick worth remembering, and I appreciate hearing about it. I
have a strong suspicion though that the critical factor is not if the
subject model is made of *soft* paper, but whether or not it is made from a
non-wood pulp paper, i.e. such as cotton and linen or kozo. (In other words
quality paper :->.) I would think that fabric stiffener is formulated to
work best with cotton.

But now I'm curious to know....How stiff is the swan?

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 02:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: reviving dying swans

Pat writes:

>I have a strong suspicion though that the critical factor is not if the
>subject model is made of *soft* paper, but whether or not it is made from a
>non-wood pulp paper, i.e. such as cotton and linen or kozo. (In other words
>quality paper :->.) I would think that fabric stiffener is formulated to
>work best with cotton.

No doubt quality paper.  Believe me, I wouldn't have bothered if it were
out of 12 year old construction paper....   :)  I did mean soft only in the
sense that with humidity it's the kind of paper that tends to lose its
creases.

My paper didn't bleed at all, by the way, but spraying the underside as a
first step might be a good precaution.

>But now I'm curious to know....How stiff is the swan?

It's not brittle at all.  I was very pleased that I could redefine and
remold certain features quite easily.  I didn't want to impart much sheen
at all to the model, so I tried to limit to a single spraying with some
touch-ups at the tips.  I'm sure that layering coat after coat would make
it potentially very stiff, almost lacquered.  I'll have to try touching up
some Fuse boxes and seeing how that works.

Rob
robert.moes@snet.net





From: Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 09:34:30 +0000 (
Subject: Re: shiny paper for mini dragon

Pearlescent paper that I have tends to not fold completely flat when you
fold it in half.  This gives the final model a tendency to 'spoing' (spread
out and try to unfold) unless there are 'locking' folds.  It is very nice
looking but I don't have many models that it would suit.
 We could probably give you a better idea which paper to use if you tell us
which Dragon model you are planning to make.
> Hiya,
>         Any recommendations for making mini (2-3 inch) dragon on good quality
> paper.  I am planning my Year 2000 (year of the dragon) rock critters
> and have tried various paper that I already had...foil, washi and
> pearlescent but I'm thinking many of you have made wonderful dragons
> with many other paper.  So far I'm leaning toward the pearlescent but my
> paper usage has been so restricted to washi and I know there's a lot
> more paper that would allow sharper detail and really nice dragon
> enhancing paper.
>         Also, is Robert Neale, dragon maker on this list?  If not does anyone
> know his address?
>         (My thanks to Ria who sent Fuse-san's address.)
>
> Aloha, Jan





From: EMADIANE@AOL.COM
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 13:48:48 -0500 (
Subject: Re: cutting a square with no fold

Bernie - if you're using rectangular paper and are fortunate enough to have
two of them, put one on top of the other in an "L" shape." (one horizontal and
one vertical) Align the edges on two sides. The "flaps" that hang over the
other edges can then be cut off, leaving two squares.

I read this in the introduction to someone's origami book and can't remember
the author's name. If you are on this list, please let us know so that I may
credit you appropriately.

Diane Kleinman





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 14:07:04 -0700
Subject: shiny paper for mini dragon

>Date:    Thu, 17 Dec 1998 22:06:32 -1000
>From:    Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
>Subject: shiny paper for mini dragon
>
>Hiya,
>        Any recommendations for making mini (2-3 inch) dragon on good quality
>paper.

Best sucess I've had with mini Neale dragons is using the spice packets
from those instant Lundberg rice mixes. The dragons come out looking like
they are made from sterling silver.

Of course, you got to like Lundberg rice....

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Teresa Ford <TesaFord@AOL.COM>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 15:51:36 -0500 (
Subject: Re: cutting a square with no fold

Of all the answers to the question, that sounds like the best one yet!!

> Bernie - if you're using rectangular paper and are fortunate enough to have
>  two of them, put one on top of the other in an "L" shape." (one horizontal
> and
>  one vertical) Align the edges on two sides. The "flaps" that hang over the
>  other edges can then be cut off, leaving two squares.
>
>  I read this in the introduction to someone's origami book and can't
remember
>  the author's name. If you are on this list, please let us know so that I
may
>  credit you appropriately.
>
>  Diane Kleinman





From: Marcia Mau <maumoy@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 16:44:58 -0800 (
Subject: Texas Origami

Just wondering if anything is going on Origami wise in San Antonio or
Austin between Dec 25 and 31.

Marcia Mau
Vienna, VA USA

______________________________________________________
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From: Gerardo Fisanotti <fisanott@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 04:39:26 -0800 (
Subject: Season Greetings

To all Origamians:

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!!

>From Argentina,

Gerardo Fisanotti

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From: Foldmaster@AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 08:31:14 -0500 (
Subject: 1,000 Cranes project for Jay update

 I just received the following letter from Kathleen Becker who is collecting
the cranes for the Korean adoptee, Jay, who has cancer in the brain:

Hi June

More cranes have arrived . . . Myma , New York, Dorothy, New Jersey and Sonia
in Florida.  I am amazed that so many people have taken time out during this
busy holiday season to fold cranes for Jay.  I was able to get 500 cranes to
Jay for Christmas and I expect to finish stringing this second group by the
end of the weekend and have them off to Jay in California in time for New
Years.  After the first group of cranes arrived I had the following note from
his mother.
"Dear Katheen and Susan:
Jay is doing fairly well, though transition back to school has been rough
going.  He is taking one class a day.  This morning your box of paper cranes
arrived bringing JOY, FAITH AND LOVE.  THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
Love,
Terry and Jay

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this project.  I never could have
done this alone.  May you be blessed with peace and happiness this holiday
season.

Sincerely,
Kathleen





From: hecht <hecht@MCI2000.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 10:34:58 -0800
Subject: New site with diagrams

I've built a Web site with diagrams for:
    1.  simple box
    2.  $ tetrahedron
    3.  vase
I'll diagram my remaining models "soon".
The URL is:  http://www.serve.com/hecht/origami/origami.htm
I'd appreciate feedback regarding:
    A.  problems browsing the site
    B.  clarity of the diagrams (graphical and textual)
    C.  errors and oversights

--steve hecht





From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Cyrille_Pr=E9aux?= <cyrille.preaux@ACCESINTERNET.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 13:27:24 +0100
Subject: help for a french guy

please can u explain me what is a stiffener?
i saw a web site doing so beautiful boxes using tissue foil stiffed by a
stiffener
i understood that it was a sort of glue but i'm not sure. If it is
effectivelly glue how can i explain it to my grocery store???

thanks for help cause that 's the only origami my girlfriend wiukd keep..;-)





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 01:28:37 -1000
Subject: Mele and kotobuki crane

Mele Kalikimaka to you all from Hawaii.  I'm getting ready for a
Japanese New Year event.  Any of you want to come and help the kids fold
rabbits and kotobuki (New Year) cranes?  The crane is found in Biddle's
Essential Origami, a lovely sitting crane used in gift giving at New
Year's.    Aloha, Jan





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 11:29:39 -0700
Subject: Paper sizes

I was just looking up the dimensions of B6 paper and found these handy
tables for all the U.S, European, and Japanese paper sizes:

http://www.cast.uark.edu/jpgis/jpps.html

Merry Christmas!

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Micah J Nance <mjkn2@JUNO.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 14:23:28 -0600
Subject: Nativity

I am looking for a Christmas nativity.  My mother collects Nativities and
told me she would really like to have one. I have searched for a book
with a nativity in it but to no luck.  Pleas if anyone has a diagram of a
nativity please send it to me ASAP.  I would like to have it so I can
make it for her tomorrow (christmas) thanks

Micah
___________________________________________________________________
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From: Perry Bailey <pbailey@OPENCOMINC.COM>
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 19:09:57 -0600
Subject: Christmas eve in the fold

Hello fellow folders!
Merry Christmas and a Happy new year to you all!

Many of you may remember this, as it was posted a year or so ago,
but I thought what the hey! so here it is again.

And once again Thank you to Rick for sharing this with all of us!

"An Origami Christmas"
    - by Rick Bissell
-----------------------------------------------------

'Twas the night before Christmas,
  when all through the house
could be heard paper crinkling,
  - I was folding a mouse;

My modulars were hung on the tree
  like "fine art",
(with hopes that come morning
  they'd not fallen apart!);

The children were nestled
  all snug in their beds,
but visions of petal folds
  danced in MY head;

My wife was asleep too,
  I was up all alone,
and had been folding for hours
  to decorate my home.

When out on the lawn
  there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the table to see
  what was the matter.

My hand grabbed the knob
  and yanked open the door,
as kami went scattering
  all over the floor;

When, what to my wondering
  eyes should appear,
but a Kasahara sleigh,
  and eight Robert Lang reindeer.

The driver was plump
  - a right jolly old elf,
and I said "Santa's a FOLDER!"
  out loud to myself.

"Now crease it! Now fold it! Now crimp that part here!
Release the trapped paper and sink-fold it there!
Let the whole world begin at the sound of my call!
Now fold away, fold away, fold away all!"

As I drew in my breath,
  with my head spinning 'round,
down the chimney
  St. Nicholas came with a bound.

He was dressed all in paper,
  from his hat to his feet,
(and some of it was "wet-folded"
  from the snow on his seat),

He had a gum-wrapper belt,
  and a pipe made from gold foil,
but his newspaper boots
  were all sooty and soiled;

He spoke not a word,
  but went straight to the tree,
and lock-folded my modulars,
  and then turned back to me.

And laying his finger
  between two unseen pleats,
with a quick twisting motion,
  he gave my mouse feet.

Then he sprang to his sleigh
  and team parked in the dark,
And away they all flew
  like a sharp paper dart:

But I heard him exclaim
  ere he drove out of sight,
"Those diagrams are wrong son,
  you'd have been struggling all night!"

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

May All your squares be true and your creases sharp!

Perry

--
pbailey@opencominc.com
http://www.afgsoft.com/perry/  <---- Origami Web Page with
Diagrams!
ICQ 23622644





From: Dorothy Engleman <FoldingCA@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 10:22:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Christmas eve in the fold

Happy holiday greetings to all.

Merida, please tell us what Star Arabesques are.

Dorothy





From: Rosalind F Joyce <fold4wet@JUNO.COM>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 10:51:48 -0500
Subject: Re: shiny paper for mini dragon

I've used black foil, duo paper with foil on one side and plain color on
other, thin gold and silver foils, or plastic coated florist foil to make
earring-sized dragons, less than 2 inches.  The models were mostly Tom
Stamm and Neale-Kasahara types.  Ros

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From: Meristein@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 11:47:56 -0500 (
Subject: Re: Christmas eve in the fold

Happy holiday season to all; I'm folding myself silly, what with Star
Arabesques for some and Stars of David for others, it's a great time of year
for us folders.

"Peace is our gift to each other." Elie Wiesel

Merida & Mike





From: good man <jess2800@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 12:10:13 -0500
Subject: Re: New site with diagrams

I printed the Vase and box and the diagrams are of excellent quality.
Keep up the good work....I'm looking forward to the moneyfolds that you
have listed.
I haven"t had a chance to fold them yet.
                              Jess





From: John Sutter <sutterj@EARTHLINK.NET>
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 13:37:56 -0800
Subject: Greetings/Thanks/Peace

Greetings all,

Thanks Perry for posting the origami Christmas poem this year!  I used it
with a Kasahara mouse as a gift for a
friend.  PEACE in the NEW YEAR!

Ria ^   ^





From: Meristein@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1998 21:54:49 -0500 (
Subject: Re: Christmas eve in the fold

Star Arabesque is a model by J. Lopez-Figueroa of Spain, published in the 1997
OUSA Convention program. They are absolutely beautiful and look much more
complex than they are to fold, although there is a lot of precreasing.

Happy folding, Merida





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 01:44:22 -0500
Subject: Webpage update

Hi all,

Just wanted to let you know my page has now been updated to now include
some of my articles. Enjoy!

Marc

http://marckrsh.home.pipeline.com





From: Rachel Katz <mandrk@PB.NET>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 19:13:21 +0000
Subject: Russian Web Site

For a real treat, visit Yurii and Katrin's Shumakova's website. It's chock
full of origami and related matters with lots of original models and diagrams!

The URL is:
    http://www.comm.ru/home/origami

Rachel Katz
Origami - it's not just for squares!





From: Florence Temko <Ftemko@AOL.COM>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 09:02:48 -0500 (
Subject: Museum book slated

This appeared in Publishers Weekly of April 27, 1998, concerning the rights
for a book to be published by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

(At the Bologna Book Fair a project of) Robie Rogge's of the Metropolitan
Museum of Art got much foreign interest: ....."Origami," which Viking won at
auction last fall and which had strong interest from French, German, Spanish
and even Japanese houses. "If I can sell an origami book to the Japanese,"
Rogge said, "I've done about all I can do."

No further news when it will be published.

And a Happy New Year to all.

>From Florence (new to the list).





From: Dorothy Engleman <FoldingCA@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:16:41 -0800
Subject: Re: talking mouth

Howard,

There are two talking mouth models in the 1963 Shari Lewis and Lillian
Oppenheimer book,  "Folding Paper Toys".

"Freddy Finger" can be animated with one hand.

"Billy Beak" requires two hands to "talk".

Dorothy





From: Howard Portugal <howardp@FAST.NET>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:45:41 -0500
Subject: talking mouth

Hi all,

I'm trying to remember how to make a simple child's action model. It is
a 3d mouth. you hold the top and bottom between the thumb and finger of
one hand and  as you open and close the thumb and finger, the mouth
springs open and shut. If anybody knows what I'm talking about, please
let me know. I've looked through several of my books and can't find it.
I seem to remember seeing it in a really old Shari Lewis book.

Thanks, and happy holidays,

Howard
--
Howard Portugal, West Chester, PA email:howardp@fast.net
---------------------------------------------------
"A problem worthy of attack, proves its worth by fighting back."
Author Unknown





From: Barbra0336@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:38:47 -0500 (
Subject: Re: talking mouth

Regarding talking mouths.
Try ORIGAMI IN ACTION by Robert J. Lang,  PAPER PANDAS AND JUMPING FROGS by
Florence Temko,  and TRICK ORIGAMI by Yoshihide Momotani
Have fun,  Barbara O





From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:19:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Museum book slated

The book Florence Temko mentions would seem to be "Origami Inspired by
Japanese Prints from the Metropolitan Museum of Art" by Steve and Megumi
Biddle. The editor is indeed Robie Rogge and the publisher is Viking.

I received this book as a Christmas present. It has reproductions of
Japanese prints, and for each one, there are instructions for an origami
model of something that is illustrated. The models are simple to low
intermediate, and mostly traditional. I recognize two that may be by
Toshie Takahama, the chrysanthemum and umbrella, which are not credited
to her. (The chrysanthemum is is Takahama's "Origami Flowers," and since
I don't read Japanese, I can't tell if it is traditional. The umbrella is
credited to Takahama in Kenneway's "Complete Origami.") The title page
states, "Introductions, instructions, diagrams, and models copyright1998
by Steve and Megumi Biddle."

The book is not unattractive, provides interesting information and has
clear diagrams. The pages with prints and photos of origami models are
appealing, but the diagram pages use the Biddles' typical
nine-diagrams-in-three-columns format, which I find boring, but at least
the background is white, rather than the blue-on-blue of some of their
other books.

The book apparently flew off the shelves at the toy store where my friend
works. I suppose it would be a good gift for a beginner, but I think I
would prefer to give "Paper Creations" by Gay Merrill Gross. (Or if I
meant to give a beautiful book, "Paper Art," by Michael LaFosse.) And I
am disturbed that the Biddles seem to be claiming the drinking cup, the
crane, the kimono, etc., and the models I associate with Takahama, as
their own.

Perhaps someone who has seen the book and is more familiar with
traditional origami or the work of Toshie Takahama would like to make
additional comments?

-Jane
