




From: Kimberly Crane <kcrane@KIMSCRANE.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 12:20:53 -0400
Subject: Re: photographing origami models (long)

Sheldon,
I can only agree with Susan comments about the Sony Mavca D7 2V.  In trying to
get good images of products that Kim's Crane sells I have tried 35mm
photographing, digital cameras, video cameras, and scanners.  They all have
their good and bad points, but cost was what drove me to using a digital camera
and scanner.  I found it was easy to get good images of books and plain papers
with a scanner, but impossible to get good images of 3d items and foils.  I have
taken photos of objects smaller then a dime with the Sony Mavca.  The first
thing most people will ask "what about the quantity?"  How will you use the
images; if they are going to be viewed on a computer, they are very good; if
they are going to be printed out on paper larger than one-to-one, they are poor.

Gordon Crane
www.kimscrane.com

Susan Dugan wrote:

> Sheldon,
> There are many nice digital camera's on the market ranging from less than
> $300 to more than $24,000.  As an example, almost all of USA Today is
> digital and the still photo's from the Superbowl's for the last five years
> have been from digital camera's. You get what you pay for.
> One I can recommend from use (and I plan to use it in a digital photography
> course at Benedict College) is the Sony Mavca D7 2V, cost about $700.00.
> There is a lower version Sony Mavca for about $300-400. I have not tested
> the lower version, but I spent two weeks NYU and the Origami office in New
> York testing the Sony Mavca D7 (which Sony recently replaced with the D7
> V2).
> What it did the best was Origami closeups under natural light or with an
> additional lightsource (not necessarily photographic). The flash on the
> first version (not V2) was the pits. Candid's under available light were ok,
> the closeup work of the models was great.
> The best thing is the camera stores the images directly onto a standard
> floppy disk that can be popped out of the camera and placed directly in a PC
> or MAC for immediate use.  You can preview the images taken and the
> batteries were rechargeable and took two days to run them down. (Steady
> shooting).
> Excellent for scientific documentation and trade show picture notetaking.
> As far as 35mm camera's, many manual single lens reflex are available on the
> used market (like Wall Street Camera in NY, when you come for the
> convention!). These are very good Canon, Nikon's, Pentax's who are like
> older computers, they work fine but don't have all the fanciest gadgets.
> Extension tubes or a Macro lens is the way to go, go to your local library,
> check out a book on doing closeup photography.
> Use a tripod for slow shutter speeds to get the largest depth of field (so
> you can see the entire model).
> Good luck.
> Hobbit
>
> >Sheldon Ackerman.......http://www.dorsai.org/~ackerman/
> >ackerman@dorsai.org
> >sheldon_ackerman@fc1.nycenet.edu





From: Judy D Pagnusat <judypag@JUNO.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 12:31:00 -0700
Subject: Re: The Traditional Junk---Satisfying? Beautiful?

Lisa,
In answer to your question.
>(1) What do you think is the most satisfying model to fold?
>
>  My sense of this is that once you've folded any model enough the
>moves
>start to seem intuitive and satisfying. A model that is initially
>frustrating
>can become fun and relaxing. (Cranes exemplify this for me.)

I agree with you here.  After learning a cool model, I tend to fold it
alot and then I usually start giving it as gifts to people and they also
enjoy it. I am enjoying Fuse's newest box book, "Fabulous Origami Boxes",
right now.  It actually has cranes and flowers folded into the lids.  I
also like making miniatures to make into jewelry.
>
>(2) Is a cool folding sequence enough?
>
>  Maybe. Sometimes. But I think I'm really more outcome oriented.

Figuring out a folding sequence successfully is definately exciting but
if the results are not also exciting, it's not much fun. I am definately
results oriented.  I genarally wouldn't chose a model to fold though if I
didn't think it looked great.

(3) Also satisfying, folding for a need.

This summer I taught origami to a Girl Scout day camp with a nature
theme.  There were 6 unist all with bug names.  I had to come up with six
different bugs easy enough for the very young and the inexperienced
folder.  I was able to do this by adapting allot of the models I found
both to make them easier and to do bugs I couldn't find.  Another
incident was a friend who call asking me to find a sheep or lamb fold
that non folders could fold as a going away present for a member of their
spinning group who was moving away.  I could not find one so I adapted a
model fron "Origami Treasure Chest".  I find meeting these challenges to
be very fullfilling.

Judy
>
>Lisa
>Lisa_Hodsdon@hmco.comFrom DLister891@AOL.COM
>From: DLister891@AOL.COM
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>To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 15:13:41 EDT
>Subject: Re: The Chinese Junk - Really Chinese?
>Message-ID: <da5ca210.35f2dee5@aol.com>
>X-Status: New
>X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 158
>
>Valerie asks about the "Blintz Fold Run" mentioned by Joseph in his
>comment on
>my earlier note about the Chinese Junk. I had written:
>
>>Finally, it is not generally known that any fairly shallow box made
>by
>>paperfolding can be transformed into a "Chinese Junk". Just make your
>box by
>>whatever folding pattern you choose. Next collapse its sides like a
>paper bag
>>with sides to reach the "mirror" stage. Then pull out the two sides.
>
>To this, Joseph replied:
>
>>This is part of the "blintz fold run" a series of (up to) 18
>different
>>models that progress from the fortune teller through to the junk.
>
>In fact, according to what Joseph is literally saying, this is not
>what I
>meant. Joseph is referring to the box with flaps at the sides, which
>is made
>by progression from the catamaran or double boat. (Although it is
>possible to
>bypass the catamaran stage.)  This is indeed part of the"blintz fold
>run" and
>is the usual eay of making the Chinese Junk.
>
>But what I was trying to say was that ANY fairly shallow origami box,
>HOWEVER
>constructed my be converted into Chinese Junk by collapsing it and
>then using
>the pull-out. It may not necesaarily be as neat as the classic method
>of
>construction, but it is possible.
>
>I have never previouslu heard the term "the blintz fold run", but it
>is
>obvious what joseph meand. The Spanish call them "pajarita folds" or
>even
>"pajaritas" without meaning the actual Pajarita, which is, of course a
>member
>of the blintz fold run.  (Once known as "The Hobby Horse" in English.
>Another
>way of looking at them is as folds derived from the Windmill base.
>
>However, the "blintz fold run" was identified (although not under that
>name)
>by Robert Harbin in his book "Paper Magic" (1956), in the section of
>folds
>using his "Basic Fold One", which is none other than the Blintz. Why
>he did
>not identify the Windmill base, as such, is not clear, but it must be
>remembered that Harbin was still groping towards a set of meaningful
>bases.
>The fact that he did not identify the Windmill base as a separate base
>carried
>over into Sam Randlett's "The Art of Origami" (1961). In this book,
>Sam
>Randlett identified what have come to be regarded as the standard
>bases. The
>Windmill base is however omitted and it has remained a poor relation
>among
>paperfolders ever since, notwithstanding the fact that Origami USA
>include it
>in their manuals of basic Origami.
>
>As I have said, Robert Harbin was still groping toward a
>classification of
>folds and while he includes many of the folds of Joseph's "Blintz Fold
>Run",
>they are not all neatly gathered together in one place in "Paper
>Magic" . Th
>salt cellar/magic colour changer precedes the Multiform, which itself
>includes
>a table, the double boat, the windmill, the hobby horse (pajarita) and
>the
>sanbo, which Harbin calls a kitchen sink or a trough.There follow (not
>identified as Multiform models) the lover's knot, an ashtray, said to
>be
>Japanese, and the Utility Box (i.e. the box which turns into the
>Chinese
>junk.)
>
>In his scheme, Harbin distinguishes from the Blintz his basic fold
>Six, in
>which, instead of folding all four corners to the centre, only two
>opposite
>corners are so folded. From this he folds the Chinese junk, which he
>calls
>"The Barge" and follows it with several variants, including the
>variant made
>from the Buckle.
>
>So far as I know, Harbin's is the best exposition of the "blintz fold
>run",
>but in no logical sequence. It is certainly not complete. More members
>of the
>sequence can be found in the Spanish books, "El Mundo del Papel" by
>N.M.Montero and "Una Hoja Del Papel". (This latter book was anonymous,
>but its
>author has been revealed by Vicente Palacios to be Lorenzo Herrero
>Sainz.)
>
>David Petty has recently published his Home Page on the net. Its UR
>is:
>http://members.aol.com/ukpetd/    It can also be reached through the
>BOS Home
>Page. David includes a long section of several pages in which he lists
>traditional folds from a whole collection of books. His research is by
>no
>means completed, but he includes many folds from the "blintz fold run.
>His
>page will repay careful study by anyone interested in traditional
>paperfolding.
>
>If Joseph has any other source of a full list of the "blintz fold
>run", I
>shall be eager to learn of it. Traditional models have long been a
>particular
>interest of mine and  I should like to see the publication of a book
>as
>comprehensive as possible devoted to these folds, both western and
>eastern.
>
>David Lister.
>
>Grimsby, England.
>
>DLister891@AOL.com
>

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From: Ian McRobbie <Ourldypeac@AOL.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 12:48:37 -0400 (
Subject: Re: New ed. of Origami for the Connoisseur

  I ordered Origami for the Connoisseur from Barnes and Noble over 2 weeks ago
and still haven't recieved it yet!!  I haven't even gotton an E-mail to verify
it's shippment.

                                                    -Ian





From: Kimberly Crane <kcrane@KIMSCRANE.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 13:13:09 -0400
Subject: Re: New ed. of Origami for the Connoisseur

The reason you have yet to receive your book is that it has not yet been
released.  The distributor as of last week said it was not going to be released
until the last of  September.
Sincerely,
Kimberly Crane
http://www.kimscrane.com

Ian McRobbie wrote:

>   I ordered Origami for the Connoisseur from Barnes and Noble over 2 weeks ago
> and still haven't recieved it yet!!  I haven't even gotton an E-mail to verify
> it's shippment.
>
>                                                     -Ian





From: DORIGAMI@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 13:17:40 -0400 (
Subject: Re: David Lister pull out fold in Chinese Junk

In reply to David Listers mention of the pull out fold in the Chinese Junk,
there is such a move in the unfoldable box in one of Paul Jacksons books that
I use to make the Butterfly Balloon in. (It is four moves that stretche out
the four corners to open the box) I call this move a stretch move and have
found it in several models.  There is a parrot that uses it, and this is more
of a spread fold and I know I have encountered it many times and love this
move.  By the way the Junk starts with the masu box for measuring rice so I
think its origins are very old but like technology probably took a long time
in developing.  Perhaps in the end it was just one of those sudden insights
that people often have in Origami, I like to call it a magical moment.
Dorigami (Dorothy Kaplan)





From: Dorothy Engleman <FoldingCA@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 16:32:01 -0700
Subject: Re: New editions question

Jeff Kerwood inquired:

"...where can I get BOTH (cheapest) new editions of "Origami for the
Connoisseur" and "Origami Omnibus"?"

In Japan, Jeff.   (And have a great trip, if you take my suggestion).





From: Richard Kennedy <r.a.kennedy@BHAM.AC.UK>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 16:41:10 +0100
Subject: Xmas book suggestions

For a present, and for someone just starting in origami, I think I would
choose a book with some colour photographs of finished origami, in
addition to diagrams. Possibilities would include the books by Gay Merrill
Gross, and 'Fantastic Folds' (by Shaker & Williamson ?). Fuse-san's english
books of boxes also contain beautiful photographs of the finished boxes.

Richard K
(R.A.Kennedy@bham.ac.uk)





From: Jeff & Helen Sperber <jlsperber@SPRINTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 16:53:51 -0700
Subject: Re: New editions question

I have copies of "Origami for the Connoisseur" and "Origami Omnibus" on
order from Sasuga.  I was told that they were due to get them in a week or
two.  I was also told that "Origami Tanteidan--4th Convention would be
available soon.





From: Valerie Vann <valerie_vann@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: New ed. of Origami for the Connoisseur

I haven't seen the new edition either, but I'd say
that if:

1. You don't have the old edition
2. You're "into origami" more than casually

You need this book, no matter what's been done
to it in the process of getting out a new edition.

Besides, I doubt this publisher would seriously
cripple it: it is a classic and we've all been
pleading for years for a re-print.

Same goes for "Origami Omnibus"
You need it.

valerie





From: Valerie Vann <valerie_vann@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:18:24 -0400
Subject: Xmas book suggestions

Any of Steve & Megumi Biddle's books are great
for beginners: thorough, well diagrammed, enough
to take a beginner up to intermediate.

valerie





From: Valerie Vann <valerie_vann@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 18:46:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Traditional Models (Was:The Chinese Junk )

For those who'd like a handy compendium of traditional
origami models, one of my favorites is a little Japanese
book by Makoto Yamaguchi. (I got mine through Sasuga.)

Nihon no Densho Origami (Traditional Japanese Origami)
Yamaguchi, Makoto
Seitosha paperback, 246 pgs, ISBN 4-7916-0650-7

Must be over a 100 models, includes all the standard
hats, containers, dolls, boats, decorations, tatos,
traditional modulars, frogs, cranes, other critters,
etc etc.

I don't know that all
of these are actually "traditional" or whether this is even
discussed (seems to be a children's book, but I don't
read Japanese), but it certainly has just about every
model I've ever seen labeled "traditional" in other books.

Also has nice clear diagrams for the basic folding
vocabulary of moves. Models are grouped by subject.

Handy for when someone says "do you know how to make
a ......?" and you haven't made one for years; or if
you've spent your origami carreer doing Lang Beetles and
would like to round out your origami knowledge with some
historical depth :)

I recommended this to a friend who complained that
just because she's of Japanese ancestry, everyone expects
her to know all the childhood origami, and she only knows
how to do a crane...

valerie





From: Jeff Kerwood <jkerwood@USAOR.NET>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 19:18:04 -0400
Subject: New editions question

I have taken a quick look in the archives and a few online sources but I'm
not readily finding the info I'm looking for. Here's my question, where can
I get BOTH (cheapest) new editions of "Origami for the Connoisseur" and
"Origami Omnibus"?

Jeff Kerwood





From: Keropi <keropi@VT.EDU>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 19:39:08 -0400
Subject: Re: New editions question

I think the best bet is to get it from Barnes & Nobles online.
http://www.lycos.com/emarket/shopping/books/shopbnsrchser.html
Or Amazon books at http://www.amazon.com

I too would like to own a copy of Origami for the Connoisseur and Origami
Omnibus.  Supposedly, Barnes & Nobles have them "in stock" and will ship
within 1-2 weeks (Amazon said the books are coming out in late Sept.).  Its
definitely cheaper than getting it at a store (even with the cost of s&h,
$36.70 for both) whereas if you get it from the store, it'll cost you $39.00
for both.  However,  someone (slipped my mind as to who exactly) mentioned
that he/she had ordered Connoisseur for a while now, but has not received it
or any form of conformation (sp?).  So, I think I'll wait until end of Sept.
(when the books are suppose to be out) to decide.  Hope that helps.

Holly
-----Original Message-----
Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 7:19 PM

>I have taken a quick look in the archives and a few online sources but I'm
>not readily finding the info I'm looking for. Here's my question, where can
>I get BOTH (cheapest) new editions of "Origami for the Connoisseur" and
>"Origami Omnibus"?
>
>Jeff Kerwood





From: Mark Gilchrist <mark@HOBBITON.FORCE9.NET>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 19:48:27 +0100
Subject: Re: NO: Length of Lines in Postings to Origami-L

> Sometimes when I print out my postings, I find that  the text alternates in
> long and short lines, presumably because the text contains some formatting of
> lines which are too long for the program to which the posting is made.
>
> Since \I am guilty of sending somewhat long postings, I fear that if this is
> happening to my postings to Origami-L, it must make it very tedious to read
> them, (quite apart from the tedious content, that is.) When I receive my own
> postings back from Origami-L, the formatting is correct, but this may not
> apply to people using other mail programs. Could someone tell me if I am
> offending in this way? And if |I am, how I can avoid doing it in the future?
>
> David Lister

As far as I'm aware your postings are fine! I too get the non-wrapping
problem, but my newsreader (MacSoup) has an option for rewrapping text,
very much like the NotePad (?) accessory on the PC. It may be worth
looking for something like that. Also some newsreaders have a setting
for artificially controlling the line-length...perhaps these insert a
carriage return after every x characters.  To print it ou could always
try saving to disk and then opening in another application (such as the
well known wordprocessing behemoth!).  Mac users could also try Drag and
Drop to the desktop (oh, aren't we lucky to have such simple operations!

Hope this helps

--
Mark...
a word processor?  Does that have the same effect on words as a food
processor has on food?





From: Anne R LaVin <lavin@MIT.EDU>
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:28:48 -0400 (
Subject: Yet Another Web Site Announcement
I think I've mentioned before on the list that I've put my list of
Origami books up on my personal web site - "so what?" you may well
ask.

Well, this weekend, in a fit of reorganizational fervor, I have
revamped it so that I think it's actually useful to other people, and
not just a way for me to keep track of the books.

Basically, it consists of an alphabetical list of the books I own
(about 150) with pretty complete bibliographical information (author,
title, publisher, year, ISBN, etc.) for all my books - including the
ones in Japanese.  The Japanese books are described with translated
titles, romanized author and publisher, and original Japanese script
author, title and publisher info.  (And there are instructions on how
browser.)  I've tried, also, to figure out the status of the book -
out of print, etc., as much as possible.

I hope this means that people who cannot read Japanese can use the
page to look up the way you write an author's name in Japanese, or can
figure out who wrote the neat book they bought the other day but can't
read!  :)  (The page is nothing as complicated as a searchable database,
it's actually text, and so I expect readers to use the "find" function
of their browsers to search for strings inside the page.)

In addition, where possible, I've made links to places where you can
buy the books, and in most of those cases, to the actual pages
describing the individual book.  The most obvious of these are the
links to Amazon.com, where I am what they're calling an "Associate" -
meaning I get a small referral fee if someone follows a link from my
page to Amazon, and then buys something.  For books not carried at
Amazon - mostly Japanese titles - I've linked to Sasuga, and then
variously to a few other sites.  (I should mention there's no referral
thing set up for anything except Amazon.com.  I'm hardly going to
retire on the income, if any, from this; I hope the mild commercialism
of this aspect of the page doesn't put people off.)

Finally, once the start-of-semester craziness winds down, I'm hoping
to start adding reviews and ratings on the books, probably starting
with recent publications (or my favorites :) and then working from
there.  If anyone's interested in a particular book, ask, and maybe
I'll do that one next!  I expect the reviews to consist at least of
the books' tables-of-contents, a brief description, and a general
"classification" of the book (children's/modular/whatever).
Amazon.com makes it really easy to build in links to things like
author-name searches, etc., so we'll see how much I have time for.

So, I hope you find it useful.  Don't follow the links if the
commercial aspect is a bummer - and I'd welcome any feedback!

Anne R. LaVin                       "Say, Pooh, why aren't YOU busy?" I said.
lavin@mit.edu                           "Because it's a nice day," said Pooh.
(617) 258-7940                                                  "Yes, but---"
MIT Foreign Langs & Lits                              "Why ruin it?" he said.





From: Garry Robertson <Garry_Robertson@LOEWENGROUP.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 11:29:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

>So, my question is this:

  What currency should I get my bank to get for me that would be ideal for
folding?
...
>

Colin,

Have you tried Canadian Tire Money?  The denominations are about right
      ($0.05 to $1.00)

It should be close to the right dimensions for most money folds.

Garry Robertson





From: Joanne Roiter <chug@GIBRALTER.NET>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:24:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

I was in Japan and found the 1,000 yen to be perfect for folding. Of course,
there's that problem about cost. The American dollar can be folded, there are
some sites under origami that actually have diagrams. Hope I helped.....the
American dollar would probably be the cheapest.   Joanne

Colin Pye wrote:

> Hi.
>
> I was down to the bank the other day, and was thinking about folding, so I
> combined the two, and came up with the idea of money folding.  However,
> being the cheap fellow I am, I am reluctant to fold even the devalued
> Canadian currancy, particularly since the lowest denomination I could fold
> (without a hydraulic press, that is :-) is a 5-dollar bill.
>
> Now, I know that the US $1 is still less expensive than Canadian $5s (for
> now... :-), but I want something even more economical.
>
> So, my question is this:
>
>   What currency should I get my bank to get for me that would be ideal for
> folding?
>
> The Bank of Canada lists exchange rates for these currencies:
> U.S. Dollar, Argentine Peso, Australian Dollar, Austrian Schilling,
> Bahamian Dollar, Belgian Franc, Brazilian Real, Chilean Peso, Chinese
> Renminbi, Colombian Peso, Danish Krone, East Caribbean Dollar, European
> Economic Community, Fiji Dollar, Finnish Markka, French Franc, African
> Financial Community, Pacific Financial Community, Deutsche Mark, Ghanaian
> Cedi, Greece Drachma, Honduran Lempira, Hong Kong Dollar, Icelandic Krona,
> Indian Rupee, Irish Pound, Israeli Shekel, Italian Lira, Japanese Yen,
> Malaysian Ringgit, Mexican New Peso, Moroccan Dirham, Myanmar Kyat,
> Netherlands Guilder, Neth. Antilles Florin, New Zealand Dollar, Norwegian
> Krone, Pakistan Rupee, Panamanian Balboa, Peruvian New Sol, Philippine
> Peso, Portuguese Escudo, Singapore Dollar, South African Rand, South Korean
> Won, Spanish Peseta, Sri Lanka Rupee, Swedish Krona, Swiss Franc, Taiwanese
> Dollar, Thai Baht, Trinidad & Tobago Dollar, Tunisian Dinar, Turkish Lira,
> Pound Sterling, Venezuelan Bolivar
>
> However, it doesn't say what the smallest unit (or prettiest unit, for that
> matter) that can be folded is.  As an example, I just checked, and found 1
> Canadian dollar equals 879.507475813544 South Korean Won, but if the
> smallest Won is a 1000 Won note, this would not be terribly useful.  On the
> other hand, if there is a 1-Won note, then I would be quite happy, and
> would likely try to get several hundred of them, just for the joy of
> folding.
>
> So, after foldability and cost, comes shape.  If the note is not of a shape
> that is conveniently usable, it would not be terribly useful.  As far as
> size goes, I've been using the 5x5cm squares of paper for most of my
> folding so far, and I would expect most notes to be larger than that.
>
> I would expect that if I specifically requested currency from the bank that
> they would get notes that were in good condition, so I wouldn't worry too
> much about that, especially if they were low in cost.
>
> So, which currency gives the most bangers for the buck?
>
> Sincerley,
>
> Colin
> Origami Enthusists stick with the fold!
> Colin Pye    cp@atcon.com     http://www.atcon.com/~cp





From: jfirestone <jfirestone@MILEHIGH.NET>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:30:22 -0600
Subject: Re: new editions

I had a friend who works for barnes/noble check their status. they as of
yesterday have not yet been received at either ingram ( the book clearing
house for all stores) or at cambridge press (?) the us publisher. All
indications are to wait until the end of september

david





Date: 08 Sep 1998
Subject:
From: cp@atcon.com

Hi.

I was down to the bank the other day, and was thinking about folding, so I
combined the two, and came up with the idea of money folding.  However,
being the cheap fellow I am, I am reluctant to fold even the devalued
Canadian currancy, particularly since the lowest denomination I could fold
(without a hydraulic press, that is :-) is a 5-dollar bill.

Now, I know that the US $1 is still less expensive than Canadian $5s (for
now... :-), but I want something even more economical.

So, my question is this:

  What currency should I get my bank to get for me that would be ideal for
folding?

The Bank of Canada lists exchange rates for these currencies:
U.S. Dollar, Argentine Peso, Australian Dollar, Austrian Schilling,
Bahamian Dollar, Belgian Franc, Brazilian Real, Chilean Peso, Chinese
Renminbi, Colombian Peso, Danish Krone, East Caribbean Dollar, European
Economic Community, Fiji Dollar, Finnish Markka, French Franc, African
Financial Community, Pacific Financial Community, Deutsche Mark, Ghanaian
Cedi, Greece Drachma, Honduran Lempira, Hong Kong Dollar, Icelandic Krona,
Indian Rupee, Irish Pound, Israeli Shekel, Italian Lira, Japanese Yen,
Malaysian Ringgit, Mexican New Peso, Moroccan Dirham, Myanmar Kyat,
Netherlands Guilder, Neth. Antilles Florin, New Zealand Dollar, Norwegian
Krone, Pakistan Rupee, Panamanian Balboa, Peruvian New Sol, Philippine
Peso, Portuguese Escudo, Singapore Dollar, South African Rand, South Korean
Won, Spanish Peseta, Sri Lanka Rupee, Swedish Krona, Swiss Franc, Taiwanese
Dollar, Thai Baht, Trinidad & Tobago Dollar, Tunisian Dinar, Turkish Lira,
Pound Sterling, Venezuelan Bolivar

However, it doesn't say what the smallest unit (or prettiest unit, for that
matter) that can be folded is.  As an example, I just checked, and found 1
Canadian dollar equals 879.507475813544 South Korean Won, but if the
smallest Won is a 1000 Won note, this would not be terribly useful.  On the
other hand, if there is a 1-Won note, then I would be quite happy, and
would likely try to get several hundred of them, just for the joy of
folding.

So, after foldability and cost, comes shape.  If the note is not of a shape
that is conveniently usable, it would not be terribly useful.  As far as
size goes, I've been using the 5x5cm squares of paper for most of my
folding so far, and I would expect most notes to be larger than that.

I would expect that if I specifically requested currency from the bank that
they would get notes that were in good condition, so I wouldn't worry too
much about that, especially if they were low in cost.

So, which currency gives the most bangers for the buck?

Sincerley,

Colin
Origami Enthusists stick with the fold!
Colin Pye    cp@atcon.com     http://www.atcon.com/~cp





From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@CONCENTRA.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:41:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?
Colin asks:

   I was down to the bank the other day, and was thinking about folding, so I
   combined the two, and came up with the idea of money folding.  However,
   being the cheap fellow I am, I am reluctant to fold even the devalued
   Canadian currancy, particularly since the lowest denomination I could fold
   (without a hydraulic press, that is :-) is a 5-dollar bill.

   ...

   So, after foldability and cost, comes shape.  If the note is not of a shape
   that is conveniently usable, it would not be terribly useful.  As far as
   size goes, I've been using the 5x5cm squares of paper for most of my
   folding so far, and I would expect most notes to be larger than that.

   I would expect that if I specifically requested currency from the bank that
   they would get notes that were in good condition, so I wouldn't worry too
   much about that, especially if they were low in cost.

   So, which currency gives the most bangers for the buck?

You can probably order fake U.S. dollars from Origami USA, but since
you're in Canada, why not fold Canadian Tire money?

        -- Jeannine Mosely





From: Lisa Hodsdon <Lisa_Hodsdon@HMCO.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:50:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

At convention, someone handed me _um cruzeiro_ from Brazil.

Reportedly, this bill is worth a few cents. The dimensions are
different from a US$1 bill. 148 mm by 66 mm vs. 157.5 by 67
which may affect some models.

Two disadvantages of not using the currency in which the model
was designed are that you lose any details that are based on the
specific dimensions of the bill or the specific patterning on the
bill. Of course, you may find some interesting new details.

If you're going to buy foreign currency, why not try a little
bit of a bunch. Not all of the cheaper bills will be equally
interesting to fold.

Lisa
Lisa_Hodsdon@hmco.com





From: Jason Todd <jrtodd@MS.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 16:15:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Before you get too carried away, you should check to see if the bank
even has "singles" in a virtually worthless currency.  The country may
well print them, but your bank probably won't have a zillion on hand.

As far as pretty goes, the US money is pretty damn boring.  The new
Fifties at least have some glitter on one of the numbers, but they are a
little expensive.  Yen are very colorful.  Australian dollars are
colorful and some denominations even have a little clear "plastic"ish
window in them -- I don't know how it would fold, but it could be pretty
intersting.

Good Luck,
-Jason





From: "Metzger, Jacob" <JMetzger@CITGROUP.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 16:32:32 -0400
Subject: Re: New editions question

After many satisfactory orders placed with amazon, lately I've found
alldirect.com to be the cheapest on-line bookstore. They will sell you OftC
and OO (currently backordered) for $35.05, including shipping. I've ordered
from them several times, with no problems.
Yaacov





From: Cathy <cathypl@GENERATION.NET>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 17:14:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

At 02:39 PM 98-09-08 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi.
>
>I was down to the bank the other day, and was thinking about folding, so I
>combined the two, and came up with the idea of money folding.  However,
>being the cheap fellow I am, I am reluctant to fold even the devalued
>Canadian currancy, particularly since the lowest denomination I could fold
>(without a hydraulic press, that is :-) is a 5-dollar
bill...........................
>I would expect that if I specifically requested currency from the bank that
>they would get notes that were in good condition, so I wouldn't worry too
>much about that, especially if they were low in cost.
>
>So, which currency gives the most bangers for the buck?
>
>Sincerley,
>
>Colin
>Origami Enthusists stick with the fold!
>Colin Pye    cp@atcon.com     http://www.atcon.com/~cp

Canadian Tire money......

                                                Cathy
******^^^^^*****^^^^^*****

Cathy Palmer-Lister
Ste. Julie, Quebec
Canada
cathypl@generation.net





From: Dorothy Engleman <FoldingCA@WEBTV.NET>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 18:46:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Yo Canada:  could someone please describe what Canadian Tire money is?





From: Rachel Katz <mandrk@PB.NET>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 20:41:26 +0000
Subject: Re: The Chinese Junk - Really Chinese?
Priority: normal

Another model you can include to add to the 17 or 18 that Joseph detailed is
the camera. A Korean orphan taught it to me many years ago and I showed it to
Alice Gray who included it in "The Magic of Origami" by Gray and Kasahara. The
model doesn't look like much but the snapping action makes it a winner.

Rachel Katz
Origami - it's not just for squares!





From: Maureen Evans <kanga@ESCAPE.CA>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 21:18:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Canadian Tire money is valuable only towards another purchase at Canadian
Tire (a retail store here).  When you make a purchase they give you
Canadian Tire bucks (from 5 cents to 10 dollars??)  Can't remember the
colors but it would work well for folding.

Maureen Evans
kanga@escape.ca

Dorothy Engleman wrote:

> Yo Canada:  could someone please describe what Canadian Tire money is?





From: Perry Bailey <pbailey@OPENCOMINC.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 22:00:42 -0500
Subject: New fold

Hi all,
Thought I would let you know I did diagram another model and put it on the web
     page.
It is a book mark, Froggy went a huntin'  An ambitious frog, and dinner to keep
     your place!

Perry

Paper, scissors, stone.....
Origami, Kirigami, bludgeon....
PerryB@mail.afgsoft.com
pbailey@opencominc.com
http://www.afgsoft.com/perry/        <----------Web site, w/diagrams





From: Allen Parry <parry@ESKIMO.COM>
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 22:26:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Colin,

I must say that if you wish to be a true money folding connoisseur .....
nothing beats a brand new crisp US dollar bill (although the Canadian
dollar is an excellent bill, but there are many designs specifically
oriented to the US dollar).  Some of my favorite designs as by Steven
Weiss (and can be found in the Annual Collections) utilize the printing on
the dollar within the model, such as his dolphin.  There are curly
markings that are used for eyes, giving the model so much additional
character.  I also have used this technique, that I learned from Stephen,
to add personality to models such as my dragon or turtle (that I taught at
convention, years past).

In addition, if you want to be a money folder, you need to get a feel for
money .... its thickness, strength and resilience lends to minor
variations on its handling.  Many times, I have tried teaching a money
fold, and an expert folder has trouble with it, because they have become
so use to fine, delicate Kami paper.

Allen Parry
parry@eskimo.com





From: Douglas Zander <dzander@SOLARIA.SOL.NET>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 00:44:09 -0500 (
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money? (fwd)

Forwarded message:
>
> I must say that if you wish to be a true money folding connoisseur .....
> nothing beats a brand new crisp US dollar bill
>
> Allen Parry
> parry@eskimo.com
>

 <snip>  Allen Parry talks about how the models use features on the US
 dollar bill to create eyes and so forth...
 I wonder what happens when the US changes *all* of its money.  All these
 special folds will need fake money with the same landmarks on them.  I
 wonder if, after the new money is issued, it will no longer be a crime
 to print fake money with the 'old' design on them.  Right now the printing
 of fake money must be enlarged or reduced in size by a specific proportion
 or else it is considered a forgery.  From what I understand, you can have
 an exact duplicate of a US currency as long as it is nowhere near the
 actual size of a ligitimate bill.  (source: NOVA television episode on PBS)

--
 Douglas Zander                |
 dzander@solaria.sol.net       |
 Shorewood, Wisconsin, USA     |





From: Penny Groom <penny@SECTOR.DEMON.CO.UK>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:09:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Thoki Yenn used to produce his own folding money one Thok Sand was worth
1000 ideas, a bargain!

I wonder if he still makes it,it was 13.5cm x 7.5 cm.

Penny
Penny Groom
Membership Secretary, British Origami Society
BOS Homepage
http://nw.demon.co.uk/rpmrecords/bos/index.html





From: Darren Scott <Darren.Scott@SCI.MONASH.EDU.AU>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:49:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?
Priority: normal

> Hi.
>
> I was down to the bank the other day, and was thinking about folding, so I
> combined the two, and came up with the idea of money folding.  However,
> being the cheap fellow I am, I am reluctant to fold even the devalued
> Canadian currancy, particularly since the lowest denomination I could fold
> (without a hydraulic press, that is :-) is a 5-dollar bill.
>
> Now, I know that the US $1 is still less expensive than Canadian $5s (for
> now... :-), but I want something even more economical.
>
> So, my question is this:
>
>   What currency should I get my bank to get for me that would be ideal for
> folding?
>
As for The Australian dollar the $5 dollar note is the smallest this
is worth about $3 US and all or notes are polomer so they don't hold
folds very well at all. They are 2X1 is size so finding models is not
that hard but they must be simple.

Darren





From: DLister891@AOL.COM
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 05:59:55 -0400 (
Subject: Cheap Folding money

Allen Perry writes: "I must say that if you wish to be a true money folding
connoisseur, nothing beats a brand new crisp US dollar bill".

Seems a trifle chauvinistic to me, but yes, dollar bills are excellent for
folding. So are the banknotes of most developed countries and indeed, most
countries of the world. The more advanced nations take pride in producing
their own banknotes of excellent quality. The less-wealthy countries get the
more advanced countries to print their banknotes for them. And if a country
can't afford to do that, then its currency is probably not worth folding.

Tthe US Dollar bill has secured its pre-eminence for folding for several
reasons. (1)   the paper is excellent for folding. (2)   the proportions of 7
to 3 are unusual and many folds have been created specifically using this
proportion. (3) The printed designs of the dollar bills have remained
constant, so that it has been possible to incorporate features of the design,
like Washington's Head and the All-Seeing Eye into the designs of folds. (4)
(and perhaps because of some of the previous points) money folding has always
been much stronger in the United States than in other countries. In fact, it
seems to have originated there.

It is impossible to say when banknotes were first folded, but it was long
before the Second World War. Naturally, Americans have concentrated on their
own dollar bills. Before the last war, and, indeed, until the days of cheap
air travel very few Americans saw any sort of money other than their own. (Any
more than I saw anything but Bank of England notes - and not many of them,
either: as a child I once saved up for months to have enough money for a ten
shilling note, worth one half of a pound.)

Incidentally, can anyone tell me why banknotes are called bills in the United
States? On the bills themselves they are called notes. But unlike Bank of
England notes, they are not technically promissory notes. (A Bank of England
note bears on it the meessage "I promise to pay the bearer on demand the sum
of X pounds".) Dollar bills are established by statute as legal tender up to
their face value, which is something different. Nor are they bills of
exchange. The popular name of "bill" seems to be merely a matter of usage, but
it may have originated for some reason. I have had one or two ideas, but they
have all turned out to be baseless.

In Britain, we have had a succession of different issues of banknotes. Over
the years they have differed in size, in proportion and in design. Notes of
differing denomiations have different sizes, one purpose of which is to help
the blind. The classic Bank of England notes were the very large white notes
issued by the Bank of England before the war, inscribed only in copperplate
writing. The paper was superb, crip and thin and would have been excellent for
folding, but I have never come across them being used for this purpose. The
poet Shelley, who was addicted to floating paper boats across ponds, once, in
desperation, used the last piece of paper which had on him, which happened to
be a fifty pound note. In his day, in the early 19th Century, that was a truly
enormous sum of money and it speaks very much about the wealth of poets in
those days! However, he didn't create his boat by folding: he merely squidged
up the note to make a crumpled, but floatable hollow. You will be relieved to
know that his boat was blown across the pond and he was able to recover his
fortune. Sadly, the old large white Bank of England notes had to be abandoned
in World War II for reasons of security. It was discovered that the Germans
were planning to wreck the British economy by dropping millions of excellently
forged notes all over the country. A limit of five pounds was placed on bank
notes. The limit remains at fifty pounds and some peopl,e look back
nostalgically to the days when it was possible to have one of the old white
notes for a thousand pounds.

My favourite money fold is the Pecock, which is shown on page 95 of Robert
harbin's "Paper magic" (which is also my favourite paperfolding book - not so
much for the complexity of its models, but for its historical content). In
1956, when the book was published, Bank of England pound notes were green and
were decorated with beautiful scroll-work. When made from one of these pound
notes, the Peacock was a magnificent creature. But once again, it is sad to
report that soon after this, a new design of pound note was issued to include
the portrait of the Queen, by popular request. Unfortunately the glorious
engraved scoll-work was abandoned and the peacock went into its eclipse.

Ten shilling notes vanished in the 1960s and now the pound notes have been
replaced by pound coins so that today there are no one pound notes in England.
(There still are coins which are nominally of a denomination of one pound in
production, but in practice, not in circulation. They are called Sovereigns,
but they are made of gold and their actual value depends on the current price
of gold. A sovereign is worth far more than one pound, though I can't quickly
find its current value. A half sovereign is worth nearly as much, because it
is a more appropriate size for jewellery! It is said that sovereigns are used
as currency in the Middle East.)

The lowest value note in circulation in England is the five pound note, which
has a value of about 8.05 US dollars each, so they are hardly cheap folding
money.

All is not lost, however. Three private Scottish banks by a historical quirk
retain their right to issue their own banknotes and they still issue one-pound
notes which circulate in Scotland alongside Bank of England notes. They are
legal tender in England, too, but English people find them unfamiliar and do
not trust them, so, post haste, they are paid into a bank and sent back to
Scotland! (The Scots don't trust Bank of England notes either.) But if you
really want to fold a Scottish one-pound note, you can get one. It will cost
about 1.61 US dollars at the present rate of exchange, (plus extortionate bank
fees if you live outside of the United kingdom) so I can't see a rush on the
Scottish banks for one pound notes.

Since writing this I have dug out  an unspent dollar bill. To be sure of what
I have written, I did something I have never done before: I measured it and
found that its measurements are 6 1/8 inches by 2 5/8 inches, that is exactly
7 by 3, a ratio of 2.333 recurring. I believe the ratio dates back to the 19th
century and to the bills issued by private banks. i wonder why they chose that
ratio. There must have been a reason.

I seem to have rambled on a bit with this one!

Two years ago I wrote an article on the history of money folding, so perhaps I
should get it out and dust it down a bit.

David Lister.

Grimsby, England.

DLister891@AOL.com





From: Kenny1414@AOL.COM
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 06:20:11 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

I think I saw some Canadian Tire money once. A Canadian folder
friend of Rae Cooker's (sorry, your name is on the tip of my tongue,
it'll probably come back to me right after I post this. *sigh*) showed
us some. It looks really nice, and is printed on good quality paper.
He said that Canadian Tire has them printed up by one of the
companies that specializes in printing real money for other countries.
Unfortunately, he didn't have any extras I could experiment with.

I'd love to get a supply of the small values to see how the patterns
work out.

I have experimented with some foreign money, and, generally, they
are more colorful, but are too small to make rings (my favorite class
of moneyfolds), or if they're big enough to make a ring, most of the
pretty design elements are either too large, or too near the edge of
the bill for me to put them on the "jewel" of the ring. But I keep trying.

The US dollar is really well designed for making rings and things from.
It has so many conveniently sized and placed design elements:
the 1s in the corners; George Washington's portrait, the treasury seal;
the Federal Reserve Bank seal with the bank letter; the pyramid;
the Eagle; the motto on the back, "In God We Trust"; the legal tender
notice on the front; the letters O, N, E on the back.

I heard it's being replaced in 3 or 4 years by a new design with larger
off-center portrait and such. *Sigh*!! I'm going to miss it. I really don't
like the off-center portraits. Aside from the fact that they make the
US money look like US food stamp coupons, the lack of symmetry
is upsetting.

Umm, on the subject of getting your hands on inexpensive paper
money, there was, and hopefully still is, a USA company called
Deak-Perrera, I think, that buys and sells money. They're in
New York. I think, if you explain what you want, they might be
able to help you. I contacted them once, but before I got very far,
something came up and I didn't have any money to spend on the
project. This was a long time ago, too.

Aloha,
kenny1414@aol.com
Kenneth M. Kawamura
P.O. Box 6039
East Lansing, MI 48826-6039

In a message dated 98-09-08 22:28:47 EDT, Maureen Evans wrote:

> Canadian Tire money is valuable only towards another purchase at Canadian
>  Tire (a retail store here).  When you make a purchase they give you
>  Canadian Tire bucks (from 5 cents to 10 dollars??)  Can't remember the
>  colors but it would work well for folding.
>
>  Maureen Evans
>  kanga@escape.ca
>
>  Dorothy Engleman wrote:
>
>  > Yo Canada:  could someone please describe what Canadian Tire money is?





From: Robby/Laura <morassi@ZEN.IT>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 07:40:01 +0200
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Lisa,
At 14.50 8/9/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>At convention, someone handed me _um cruzeiro_ from Brazil.
>
>Reportedly, this bill is worth a few cents. The dimensions are
>different from a US$1 bill.

Presumably, the dimensions of any other bill in the world are different
from a US$1 bill...... :-)
1000 Lire (Italian), for instance, is about 2:1. I assume you shouldn't
expect to fold a "true" dollar bill model for less than 1 US$ worth ! You
should either have to adapt the model to the new dimension, or (better) to
invent new models based on the selected currency. Luigi Leonardi, a well
know Italian folder, has published two books on "How to fold 1000 Lire". I
can provide as many 1000 Lire bills as you like, at 1 US$ each.....
(OK, I know, 1000 Lire is about 0.6 US$....... but I must make some profit,
no ? ;-)

Just my two cents of um cruzeiro.

Roberto





From: Maureen Evans <kanga@ESCAPE.CA>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 07:49:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

Kenny1414@AOL.COM wrote:

> I think I saw some Canadian Tire money once.

Canadian Tire money can be viewed at:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/CTenglish/75idx.html

Click on 'money' on the left sidebar then scroll down and click on the picture
of the bill that is under 75th Anniversary Issue.  This will give you pictures
of the bills.

I found this site after the inquiries about Canadian Tire money.  The size is a
little smaller than the US or Canadian dollars the dimensions are
2 5/8 x 5 1/2.

Maureen Evans
kanga@escape.ca





From: Steve Woodmansee <stevew@EMPNET.COM>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:20:15 -0700
Subject: NO: Cheap Folding Money-Aussie Bucks?

Darren Scott wrote:

>As for The Australian dollar the $5 dollar note is the smallest this
>is worth about $3 US and all or notes are polomer so they don't hold
>folds very well at all. They are 2X1 is size so finding models is not
>that hard but they must be simple.

I was in Australia last year and I remember the money as comprised of
mostly rag-type paper, but with the odd plastic window.  Is the entire bill
actually made of polymer?

"Peace In Creases"

Steve Woodmansee
stevew@empnet.com





From: Thomas C Hull <tch@ABYSS.MERRIMACK.EDU>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:23:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami Sceince and Art Proceedings

Hello all!

I've just been informed that the address I posted to order the
Proceedings book "Origami Sceince and Art" was WRONG!

If you'd like to order a copy of this book from OrigamiUSA,
please send email to origami-info@origami-usa.org

My apologies.

----- Tom "shoulda stayed in bed" Hull
      thull@merrimack.edu





From: Bob Nienhuis <nienhuis@WGN.NET>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 10:47:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

> So, my question is this:
>
>   What currency should I get my bank to get for me that would be ideal for
> folding?
>

As far as I know, the cheapest bill around is the mainland Chinese .01 Yuan
bill. According to a Chinese friend, the Yuan goes for about 8 to the US dollar,
so the .01 Yuan bill costs about 1/8 of a penny.

They are no longer in general circulation, but can still be obtained.

See my website at:

http://www.wgn.net/~nienhuis/chinese.html

for some pictures and a discussion of Chinese money folding.

Bob
nienhuis@wgn.net





From: Jason Todd <jrtodd@MS.COM>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 13:18:31 -0400
Subject: NORM: Dollar "bills"

David Lister writes: "Incidentally, can anyone tell me why banknotes are
called bills in the United States?"

Apparently the difference is that a US Dollar is a "bill of exchange"
not a "promisory note".  As David said, Pounds say something like "I
promise to pay the bearer of this note the sum of one pound."  US
Dollars say "This note is legal tender for all debts public and
private."  So, you could (in theory) redeem your pound note for some
gold or silver or whatever, but you can't do that with a dollar bill.
It's solely a piece of currency for the purpose of exchange.
The difference is subtle.

On an origami note (or bill ;) ), I have heard that blind people fold US
Dollars differently to help them differentiate the various
denominations.

-Jason





From: Cathy <cathypl@GENERATION.NET>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 16:38:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding Money?

they come in several money-like colours, you get them when you make cash
purchases.
                        CAthy

At 09:18 PM 98-09-08 -0400, you wrote:
>Canadian Tire money is valuable only towards another purchase at Canadian
>Tire (a retail store here).  When you make a purchase they give you
>Canadian Tire bucks (from 5 cents to 10 dollars??)  Can't remember the
>colors but it would work well for folding.
>
>Maureen Evans
>kanga@escape.ca
>
>Dorothy Engleman wrote:
>
>> Yo Canada:  could someone please describe what Canadian Tire money is?
>
******^^^^^*****^^^^^*****

Cathy Palmer-Lister
Ste. Julie, Quebec
Canada
cathypl@generation.net





From: Dennis Walker <d_and_m_walker@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 16:41:45 -0400
Subject: Cheap Folding money

Hello everyone,

        I just thought I would point out that if you take an 'A' sized
sheet of paper and make a square from it, the remaining piece has the
dimensions of a dollar bill (near enough)  e.g.  A4 is 210mm  x 297mm. Take
the 210 x 210 square from it and you are left with a piece 210 x 87 which
is about 7 by 3.

        It's not actually money, but it's good practice and it's cheap

        By the way, pound notes minted by the Royal Bank of Scotland are 2
x 1. I currently don't have notes from the Bank of Scotland or the
Clydesdale Bank to measure them.

        As a further aside, it is amusing (and irritating) to note that
many places in England will refuse to accept the Scottish pound despite it
being legal tender. After an argument they will accept notes from the Royal
Bank of Scotland and the Bank of Scotland, but the Clydesdale gets them
worried! Either that or they don't notice and give change of five pounds
(Yes, I DID point out the mistake to the shopkeeper, we Scots aren't all
mean!)

                                        Dennis





From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@CONCENTRA.COM>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 16:51:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Cheap Folding money
Dennis mentioned:

           I just thought I would point out that if you take an 'A' sized
   sheet of paper and make a square from it, the remaining piece has the
   dimensions of a dollar bill (near enough)  e.g.  A4 is 210mm  x 297mm. Take
   the 210 x 210 square from it and you are left with a piece 210 x 87 which
   is about 7 by 3.

This had not occurred to me before.  In fact, many of the designs for
dollar bills exploit the fact that arctan(3/7) is awfully close to
pi/8 or (22.5 degrees).  But the rectangle left over after cutting a
square from a "silver" rectangle really is in the proportions of
tan(pi/8) : 1, no fudging needed.

        -- Jeannine Mosely





From: DLister891@AOL.COM
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 17:16:14 -0400 (
Subject: Re: NO: Dollar "bills".

Jason Todd suggests that dollar bills are called such because they are bills
of exchange..

I do not think that that is correct. Bills of exchange are established in law
and are something quite different.

The status of dollar bills is that they are declared to be legal tender by
statute. That does not make them bills of exchange.

The curious thing is that as Jason says, dollar bills carry the message:"This
NOTE is legal tender for all debts public and private". During the First World
War, before Bank of England notes of low denominations were issued, the
British Treasury issued "Treasury Notes" for one pound and for ten shillings
(half of a pound). They were very similar in status to dollar bills. But
although called notes, they, also, were not promissory notes.

I suspect that dollar bills are so-called by popular usage.

David Lister.





From: Perry Bailey <pbailey@OPENCOMINC.COM>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 17:25:41 -0500
Subject: Re: NO: Dollar "bills".

>Jason Todd suggests that dollar bills are called such because they are bills
>of exchange..

Not quite, but the answer was all most there, The practice of calling american
     paper bills developed when the US was still on the gold standard.  When
     the US stopped using the gold stanard we continued to call the money bills
     out of habit, though they are

Perry

Paper, scissors, stone.....
Origami, Kirigami, bludgeon....
PerryB@mail.afgsoft.com
pbailey@opencominc.com
http://www.afgsoft.com/perry/        <----------Web site, w/diagrams
