




From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:27:46 +0200
Subject: Spread-Squash issue

HI !

>At 11:06 AM 6/7/98 -0500, Terry Buse <tbuse@VSTA.COM>  wrote:

>>How do you flatten a spread squash. I came upon that fold trying to make a
>>bee. Mine look terrible. Help!

Then Marc Kirschenbaum wrote:

>One hint is to practice with the right sort of paper. Of you are using soft
>paper (or better yet, wet folding), squashes and sinks are muck easier to
>do. On the contrary, using paper that remembers a crease very well (such as
>papers that have some sort of foil content) can make spread shashes (and
>other folds) much more difficult to perform. Sometimes it is necessary to
>train your paper so the sqash flattens properly. When it is clear whear the
>edges of the squash should be placed, you can open up the model, add the
>necessary folds "manually," and then reform. Your squash fols should now
>snap into place.
>

Also Sonia Wu wrote:

>Usually if the fold is pre-creased (fold the flap over, bisecting the
>angle of the flap), then the squash fold works more easily.
>
>I pull gently on the tip of the flap to line it up with its destination
>point and to work the "cone of air" down to the beginning of the flap.
>At the same time I tap the section at the beginning of the flap to start
>coaxing the paper into the right shape.  Then press the folds into place.
>
>Sonia Wu
>(Florida)

And finally Sebastian Kirsch wrote

>With wet-folded paper, spread squashes are no problem at all; they simply
>fall into place. I often have problems with spread squashes and
>foil-backed paper; I usually help myself with poking at the inside of the
>squash with a chopstick. What is your trick?
>

Thanks for the "submissions". I'm lost halfway, Sonia. Sorry, it's my fault.

I do this way:

First fold a bird base with all flaps down. I will explain my technique on
this example.
Now you have one point on the top and four points on the sides that have no
raw edges (that is, they can be squash-folded). Now choose one of the side
points and raise it so that it will stand out 90 degrees from the base's
plane. Separate the two layers of the pocket and grabbing the edges pull the
point-to-be-squashed down as far as you can. Simultaneously the top section
will rise (as the paper is not willing to flatten). Now placing two of your
fingers on the sides of the two opened layers (put them where the spread
squash would end) and force the top (which is pointing up this time) dow.
This should execute the spread-squash neatly.

As I'm not sure that my text description is fine, I am attaching a gif file
about the movement.

Otherwise, some of the check pieces by Marc Kirschenbaum are perfect
examples for my trick, since they do the same but you even don't have to put
your two fingers to disable the side layers from moving, the model does this
for itself.

Peter Budai





From: Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 08:43:36 +0100 (
Subject: Re: Spread Squash
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]

> Have you noticed that many are calling "spread squashes", "spread sinks"
> lately?  There's a good reason for that.  Try this:  sink the area that will
     be
> flattened out first.  Then when you fold the long valley fold, the paper will
> flatten out nicely.

What are you a masochist ?  I thought spread sinks were there to help you
perform the ever difficult 'sink' itself.  Would you do the eyes in Lang's
Cicada (Origami Insects and their Kin) by sinking the points first ?
I don't think so :(

To squash a corner, say, it helps to put in the diagonal fold first (angle
bisector) by folding the corner in half.  This gives guideline folds for
the squash to follow.

The best way to start the squash is to pull at the corners to put some 'air'
between the layers of paper and then gradually push the centre down, while
still encouraging the paper apart and follow the pre-creases made earlier.
(That's the tricky bit, especially with foil paper).

If you then fold the corner up again you have yourself an "open" sink.

* Or do you have a really really easy way to perform an open sink ?

--
andrewd@redac.co.uk





From: Michael Gibson <mig@ISD.CANBERRA.EDU.AU>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 17:36:21 +1000
Subject: Re: Foil backed paper.

Take a sheet of aluminium foil and two sheets of tissue paper (not
tissues!). Spray one side of the foil with a spray adhesive (glue inna
can) and using a tube or wooden rod, roll the tissue paper onto the foil.
Turn over and repeat with the other piece of tissue paper.
Ta-da!!

I also like foil-backing Japanese long-fibre paper (I can't think of its
actual title at the moment). It is thicker, though more forgiving with
extraneous creases. The finished result looks like the stuff Engel
uses for his models in "Angelfish to Zen". Living south of the equator
where origami paper and other resouces are rare, one is required to make
all of their own paper.

Regards,

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Michael Janssen-Gibson                 e-mail: mig@isd.canberra.edu.au
ISD, Library                   phone/voice mail: +61 6 (06)  201 5271
University of Canberra
PO Box 1 Belconnen, ACT 2616





From: Jorma Oksanen <tenu@SCI.FI>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:14:32 +0200
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

On 04-Jun-98, Robert Roos (rroos@ALLEG.EDU) wrote:

>Can anyone supply information on this "Hosoya cube"? Is it a well-known
>modular construction? (Surely it is; it's so simple!) Does it go under
other
>names?

Origami Omnibus, pp. 68-69. Compare this with my simple gift box
(simplebox.gif in archives) to see where I draw my inspiration from.

--
Jorma Oksanen   tenu@sci.fi





From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Garc=EDa_Macias_Carlos?= <CGMACIAS@TELMEX.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:36:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

        Carlos Furuti wrote:

>A mechanical (ordinary) clock comprises:
>- an engine (spring, weight, or motor) for spinning a main axis
>- an escape device (anchor) for regulating the axis speed
>- a set of gears for showing the regulated rotation in a preset scale
>Most of the mechanism should be gears

        >Joke of the day: make a Maekawa-san hourglass from transparent
material,
        >empty a miniaturist folder's wastebasket in a bad day (collect
a
        >handful of tiny crumpled balls of paper) and you have a working
        >all-paper clock...

A working clock? if you are thinking in an easy working clock,
you can use in sunny days a solar clock.

If it's made of origami, I suppose is easier than a mechanical clock...

Carlos Garcia
cgmacias@telmex.net





From: Kim Best <kim.best@M.CC.UTAH.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 18:55:12 -0600
Subject: Spread Squash (Was: Origami tricks and tools)

Terry Buse wrote:

> How do you flatten a spread squash. I came upon that fold trying to make a
> bee. Mine look terrible. Help!
> Terry

Have you noticed that many are calling "spread squashes", "spread sinks"
lately?  There's a good reason for that.  Try this:  sink the area that will be
flattened out first.  Then when you fold the long valley fold, the paper will
flatten out nicely.

Ok, this  may not work for all spread squashes.  Like those crazy n-gon ones, in
Fuse's "The Mask".  But it should work well for most trianglular and rectangular
squashes.

Kim Best





From: Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 20:58:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Pat Slider writes:

>http://www.micromark.com/
>
>These guys specialize in selling tools for precision work. Looks like most
>of the catalog is online at this point.
>
>Lots of dental and jeweler's tweezers with special angles and tips. You can
>even get sets of matt black tweezers that don't reflect as much.

I couldn't get much info on-line, but will check out the catalog when they
send it--thanks for the tip!

My die-without-them tweezers are size #5 Swiss-made biological tweezers,
used for handling objects under the microscope.  I like the fact that they
are short (about as long as my index finger) and flat--comfortable to hold
and easy to control.  The point itself is about an inch long and tapers to
a very fine tip, perfect for those tiny finishing crimps and other details
like the beaks of birds.  Also nice for curling petals on flowers.

These things are sharp, and I don't trust little plastic cases.  I use a
spare cork and stick the tweezer points inside it when not in use.

Rob





From: Steve Buck <folder@DC.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 21:32:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Capital Folders Origami
Dear Capital Folders,

            Hope this isn't too late to catch you for tomorrow night's meeting,
our last at theCleveland Park Library. Marcia Mau and I have made plane to have
dinner at UNO's Pizzaria starting at 5:45-6 p.m. before the meeting.

Steve Buck





From: "Goveia, William P" <wgoveia@INDIANA.EDU>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:30:20 -0500
Subject: Re: please unsubscribe

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From: Martin Gibbs <mrg63@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:37:08 -0700 (
Subject: Optimum cubes: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Hello all!

I'm back on the mailing list. Some of you might remember me from a
couple of years ago. I had to leave the list because I left university
and free net access behind. But we've got access at work now, so here I
am.

Anyway, on to the puzzle,

If you could find a cube which showed every bit of one side of the
dollar bill, without overlap (this may not be possible) then the total
surface area of the cube (lets call this A) would be equal to that of
the dollar bill, and this would be the largest bill possible. Then the
edge of this cube would measure sqrt(A/6) - in our case
sqrt(3x7/6)=sqrt3.5= approx. 1.87. This is the maximum side length you
could possibly have, if it is possible. So I think Tommy's answer of 1.7
is pretty darn good.

(Incidentally, using both sides of the dollar bill won't give you a
larger answer than 1.87, because you would have to have overlap
... well I think so anyway!)

              -------------------------------------------

The first thing I thought when I saw Tommy's solution was that if you
used a finer grid, eg. 42x18 instead of 21x9, and shifted the top right
corner of the rectangle of 4 squares, to the right a little, and
correspondingly to all other corners, you might get a better solution. I
haven't tried this yet. If you shift the rectangle too far, you'll get
holes in the middle of the two sides formed from the extra flaps.
There's probably a point where the sides only just meet, and this is the
optimum FOR THIS METHOD. Is Tommy's the optimum of this series? - If not
then it's pretty close. Has anyone investigated this?

             --------------------------------------------

A few years ago, at university, Alex Bateman (is he still on the mailing
list?) and I were discussing the question of finding the optimum cube
from a square of 1 unit x 1 unit. A cube I'd previously designed had a
side length of 1/5, Fujimoto's cube has a side length of 1/4, and we
designed a couple of other cubes of short length which I can't remember
at the moment. We did make them so that they locked after a fashion but
they needn't do. I think Alex had a cube that locked with a flap that
was a 1/4 of the cube's side length, but could be made smaller or zero,
so that the sides just met.

The theoretical minimum possible side length of the cube from a square
can be worked out as before, the area being 1 in this case. It is
sqrt(A/6)=sqrt(1/6) = approx. 0.41

This is I think even less likely to be achieved than the dollar bill,
because you can't wrap a square around itself as well as you can a
dollar bill.

 Well that's my halfpenny worth.

 Martin Gibbs.

>I've been thinking about question two quite a bit and have come up with
>an answer that might be right. I approached question two in much the
>same way as I approached question one (see my previous post in this
>thread). My answer is a cube with sides of length [x(sq.rt. of 26)]/3
or
>approximately 1.7x (where x = 1 unit). I drew up a diagram and put it
>online here:
>
>http://www.dallas.net/~tomkat/maxcube.gif
>(this file is about 14k)
>
>If for some reason you can't view this image I can write up some text
>instructions for folding it. The way the two faces of this cube that
>have seams are covered is interesting. It is sort of a pleated spiral.
I
>keep folding it and unfolding it -- it's like a pill bug. Fascinating.
>Now if I could *prove* that this was the right answer!
>
>Tommy
>

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From: Glenda Scott <gdscott@OWT.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:26:14 -0800
Subject: origami for quilters

I have many inquiries for references to forms which can be used by
quilters.  Can anyone suggest books which suggest this use?  Many thanks.

Glenda Scott





From: Brenda Gryfe-Becker <gryfebecker.b@PG.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:35:00 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: LARGE MODELS

Message authorized by:
    : /S=jfrmpls@spacestar.net/OU=SMTP/O=1.UCN.GO.31/P=PROCTERGAMBLE/A=MCI/C=US/

Methylcellulose is probably available through your pharmacy as well, since it is
used is many pharmaceutical preparations. When mixing the powder with water,
stir and let it sit for 30 minutes to hydrate & thicken, otherwise it will be
lumpy.

Brenda

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Author:  (INTERNET)origami@mit.edu at external

Ria wrote:

>I need help for doing a large penguin.  I have 3'x3' black craft paper off a
>large roll from the art
>room in school and I can get a piece of white the same size, but I would
>like to know if there is a
>place that has duo sided paper like origami paper that size or a method of
>putting the large papers
>together as smoothly as possible to create a more realistic looking penguin.

Try backcoating with methyl cellulose and wet folding. Methyl cellulose
comes as a powder, which you dilute to make a slippery glue. When the two
pieces of paper are joined, you would begin folding as soon as they reach
the damp stage. You may have to brace the model with cardboard, clips or
whatever else seems appropriate at the time, after you are done folding,
and until it dries completely, but the methyl cellulose with add rigidity
to the final result, which you want with something that large. Try a
sample first.

There is an article on backcoating on Joseph Wu's page at:
http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca/Info/info.html

Methyl cellulose can be hard to find. I got mine at an art supply store
after making many phone calls. Wallpaper paste would do for your project.
I think it has substances that can yellow or deteriorate eventually, but
then, you are not exactly using archival paper in the first place. (Am I
supposed to use a smiley here?)

While you are calling around for the methyl cellulose, you can also ask
about black and white duo paper.

Good luck!

-Jane





From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@CONCENTRA.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:35:44 -0400
Subject: Re: origami in NYC

Daniel Scher wrote:

   For those of you in NYC, there's a great opportunity to see some 'origami
   in motion.' At the Ricco Maresca gallery in Chelsea, there's an exhibit
   through the end of June of the work of Arthur Ganson. His work consists of
   all sorts of whimsical Rube Goldberg-like machines. And one machine in
   particular, consists of about 10 flapping birds that move up and down and
   literally flap, with the help of the machine's arms. Beautiful stuff. Hard
   to describe here, but definitely worth seeing.

Arthur Ganson lives in the Boston area, as do I, and I have seen
several exhibits of his work, though not the flapping bird machine
that Daniel describes.  His work is not to be missed!  He is a
fabulous sculptor.  Don't miss this exhibit, if you're in NYC.
Consider making a side-trip to see it if you are attending the OUSA
convention at the end of the month.

        -- Jeannine Mosely

P.S. Ganson is also the inventor of the popular free form construction
toy "Toobers and Zots".





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:41:32 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

>Date:         Mon, 8 Jun 1998 16:18:32 -0700
>
>Just to throw in my two cents
>Pendulum clocks were considered the most accurate of all timepieces

Is the pendulum also paper? Is this "paper" clock made entirely out of
paper(not wood)? And it's wrist-watch accurate? If so, I would like to
how that is done.

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:48:37 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

>Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 16:36:01 -0600
>
>        >all-paper clock...
>
>A working clock? if you are thinking in an easy working clock,
>you can use in sunny days a solar clock.
>
>If it's made of origami, I suppose is easier than a mechanical clock...
>
>Carlos Garcia
>cgmacias@telmex.net
>
>

That's a good one. A sun dial clock can be easily folded from paper.
Probably done in an hour or less. Never thought of that.

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:59:07 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Super Complex Origami -Reply

>Date:         Mon, 8 Jun 1998 19:38:13 EDT
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         Frommars@AOL.COM
>Subject:      Re: Super Complex Origami -Reply
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>where can i get instructions for the t-rex model?
>

I got my from (Kino**** Bookstore) Little Tokyo (in a tall building
plaza) but can't tell you the title of the book because it's written
entirely in Japanese. The auther is Issei Yoshino. This book is part of
the I(love)Origami series.

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:23:33 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Spread Squash

>Date:         Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:43:36 BST
>
>The best way to start the squash is to pull at the corners to put some
'air'
>between the layers of paper and then gradually push the centre down,
while
>still encouraging the paper apart and follow the pre-creases made
earlier.
>(That's the tricky bit, especially with foil paper).
>
>If you then fold the corner up again you have yourself an "open" sink.
>
>* Or do you have a really really easy way to perform an open sink ?
>
>--
>andrewd@redac.co.uk
>

I am not sure how other does it, but in general I tend to agree with you
on the described(above) technique. It's can be trick sometime if the
creases are not in the right ways (For example, a valley vs. a mountain
fold). This is especially difficult if the creases are too hard and in
opposite directions. In such case you need to undo the creases. If
possible, fold them to the right directions. However, I found it quite
difficult if the model is small. My fingers are too large to hold the
corners. A tweezer would puncture and tear the paper. Any sugguestion?

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:45:27 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Insects and their Kins

>Date:         Tue, 9 Jun 1998 00:00:49 -0500
>
>I have always liked using tissue-foil hybrids, but for a colored model
>these tend to fade badly when ordinary tissue paper is used.  Seems
that
>unryu is very easy to find in assorted colors these days, and I've been
>delighted using this as a backing with foil.  Any of the very thin
Japanese
>papers with natural fibers (rice, mulberry, silk) would be good choices
for
>experimenting.  Keep us posted on your efforts!
>
>Rob
>
>
I have never work foil or foil derivative papers because I have an
impression that they are rather thick. As for natural fibers papers,
where can I get samples. I would tike a feel on them. Unfortunately,
origami papers are not specify. Meanwhile, I will give it another shoot
at the Samurai Bettle with a larger paper to learn the folds. After that
I will try again.

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:58:28 -0700 (
Subject: Robert Lang's Dino Skeletons

Anyone know where I can get diagrams of Robert Lang's T-Rex and
Allusaurus skeletons? I saw pictures of them on Joseph Wu's homepage.

In Robert Lang's book, "Insects and Their Kins", he stated that any
number of points at any length at any position can be designed or
folded. I am interested in how. Are there books on origami design
theories? I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

AT

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