




From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 13:50:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Easy model for wetfolding

>if anybody would care to suggest an easy model for somebody to try for the
first
>time I'd appreciate it!

The easy answer: Michael LaFosse's Happy Good-Luck Bat, and it's in the
archive. It's also available on videotape (through OUSA, Fascinating
Folds, Origamido and Sausuga), with clear, detailed instructions on wet
folding.

-Jane





From: "Matthew Sparks (05-025)" <Matthew_Sparks@USA.PINKERTONS.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 14:10:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Origami sighting

Where exactly is Lincoln Triangle?
________________________________
        |Matthew M.   Sparks                                |
        |Senior UNIX Systems Administrator        |
        |Pinkerton                                                  |
        |15910 Ventura Blvd. Suite 900                |
        |Encino, CA 91436                         _  USA|
|Desk (818) 380-8712 Fax (818) 3808677|

        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Marc Kirschenbaum [SMTP:contract@PIPELINE.COM]
        Sent:   Monday, June 08, 1998 8:22 AM
        To:     ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
        Subject:        Origami sighting

        Barnes and Noble is advertising a lecture with Sergei Afonkin at
the
        Lincoln Triangle location from 2:00-3:00 on Sat 27, for his new
book,
        "Russian Origami" (which was done with Tom Hull). This date of
copurse is
        during the OrigamiUSA Convention, so if you you will be there,
you will
        probably see Sergei anyway (and Tom too, for that matter). It is
nice that
        this new book is getting some publicity.

        Marc





From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 14:15:22 +0100
Subject: Re: LARGE MODELS

Ria wrote:

>I need help for doing a large penguin.  I have 3'x3' black craft paper off a
>large roll from the art
>room in school and I can get a piece of white the same size, but I would
>like to know if there is a
>place that has duo sided paper like origami paper that size or a method of
>putting the large papers
>together as smoothly as possible to create a more realistic looking penguin.

Try backcoating with methyl cellulose and wet folding. Methyl cellulose
comes as a powder, which you dilute to make a slippery glue. When the two
pieces of paper are joined, you would begin folding as soon as they reach
the damp stage. You may have to brace the model with cardboard, clips or
whatever else seems appropriate at the time, after you are done folding,
and until it dries completely, but the methyl cellulose with add rigidity
to the final result, which you want with something that large. Try a
sample first.

There is an article on backcoating on Joseph Wu's page at:
http://www.origami.vancouver.bc.ca/Info/info.html

Methyl cellulose can be hard to find. I got mine at an art supply store
after making many phone calls. Wallpaper paste would do for your project.
I think it has substances that can yellow or deteriorate eventually, but
then, you are not exactly using archival paper in the first place. (Am I
supposed to use a smiley here?)

While you are calling around for the methyl cellulose, you can also ask
about black and white duo paper.

Good luck!

-Jane





From: "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 15:06:06 -0500
Subject: Re: chess board, Montroll's last book

Yes there is a bee in the book, made from a blintzed bird base

B R E T T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pierre Hyvernat [mailto:Pierre.Hyvernat@CIPCINSA.INSA-LYON.FR]
> is there a bee in J. Montroll last book?
> I am asking because I folded one from a draft version of the book
> last year in DC, and I would really like to have the it, and I don't
> want to try to reverse engineer mine. I know there are a few good
> models, but most of them are not too chalenging (?). So I don't want
> to buy it unless I am sure bout the bee.





From: Valerie Vann <valerie_vann@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 15:35:17 -0400
Subject: LARGE MODELS

check with your school supply store; as I recall
the "FadeLess" brand paper comes in black with
white on back, and it is made in big rolls just
for doing bulletin boards. It is also medium
heavy weight...

valerie





From: Frommars@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 16:35:42 -0400 (
Subject: lacrosse model

does anyone know how to make a lacrosse origami model, or any other type of
full body person, or where i could find one?
Thanks





From: "MARGARET M. BARBER" <mbarber@WELCHLINK.WELCH.JHU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 17:19:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Working Clock? (fwd)

There seem to have been a number of posts from people who weren't sure
whether their e-mail had been posted to the list or not.  I'm in the same
boat, so forgive me if this was already posted.  I did not see it get
posted.  The kit available from Edmund Scientific seems to be the same as
the one mentioned in other posts.  My Dad and younger sister put theirs
together several years ago and it ran for a fairly long time.  Hope this
is still of interest...
Peg Barber
mbarber@welchlink.welch.jhu.edu

---------- Forwarded message ----------

Edmund Scientific has a paper clock that really works, but it is not
origami. If this is what is wanted, let me know and I'll post the number
to get in touch with them.

Peg Barber
mbarber@welchlink.welch.jhu.edu

On Thu, 4 Jun 1998, V'Ann Cornelius wrote:

> [ported by V'Ann]
>
> Ellen Edersheim wrote:
>
>   looking for a paper clock - that really works - made out of colored
>   paper - looking for pattern - do you know where could find it
>   Thanks
>
>   ellen@cyberportal.net





From: "Matthew Sparks (05-025)" <Matthew_Sparks@USA.PINKERTONS.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 16:18:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

Just to throw in my two cents
Pendulum clocks were considered the most accurate of all timepieces up
to the atomic clock
They have the disadvantage of  being big, bulky, non-transportable,
"they don't run on ships".  Chronographs the clock that allowed
timekeeping aboard ships (and accurate navigation) were considered
excellent because they approached the accuracy of pendulum clocks. Wrist
watches on the other hand are notoriously inaccurate.

Maybe some people could work on a clock as a group. Someone would have
to create a plan and coordinate though
That way you wouldn't need to fold a million gears.

________________________________
        |Matthew M.   Sparks                                |
        |Senior UNIX Systems Administrator        |
        |Pinkerton                                                  |
        |15910 Ventura Blvd. Suite 900                |
        |Encino, CA 91436                         _  USA|
|Desk (818) 380-8712 Fax (818) 3808677|

        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Aaron Tu [SMTP:aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM]
        Sent:   Monday, June 08, 1998 10:47 AM
        To:     ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
        Subject:        Re: Working Clock?

        Out of curiosity, did I hear wrist-watch acuracy? With paper,
string,
        and g**e? What's the time keeping mechanism?

        AT

        >Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 20:30:36 PDT
        >Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
        >From:         Wayne Fluharty <wflu@HOTMAIL.COM>
        >Subject:      Re: Working Clock?
        >To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
        >
        >>There is a book called "Make your own working paper clock".
The
        >>pages are heavy paper, you cut out 160 pieces and make a
clock.
        >>Available from Amazon for $11.20 .
        >>
        >>I have a copy of the first book, sitting in a box somewhere.
I've
        >>never felt I had the time to do it...
        >
        >I also have an original copy of this book and don't feel like
I've ever
        >had the time to do it. Looking at my copy, the first thing that
I
        >noticed was the paper clips, scissors, string, washers and
gl*e...
        >although these items do not compose much of the clock itself.
The book
        >does guarantee wrist-watch acuracy... Not exactly origami, but
it is a
        >(mostly) paper construction.
        >
        >Flu (Wayne Fluharty)
        >wflu@hotmail.com
        >
        >______________________________________________________
        >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
        >

        ______________________________________________________
        Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: John Sutter <sutterj@EARTHLINK.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 17:14:55 -0700
Subject: Thanks for tips

Thank you Jane and Valerie for the tips about large models and wet folding!
I'm going to try them out
this week.  I plan to get the La Fosse video on wet folding too!
Ria





From: "Brian D. Goad" <bbbco@MAILEXCITE.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 18:10:45 -0700
Subject: please unsubscribe

unsubscibe bbbco@mailexcite.com
---
Thank You for reading this E-Mail,
              Brian D. Goad

Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com





From: Rob Hudson <rhudson@NETRAX.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 18:15:45 -0400
Subject: Re: LARGE MODELS

Most educational stores have a paper called "Bemis Jason", which is
basically a little thicker than kami, but looks and acts just like it.  Try
that out-- you can get pretty large rolls of it.

Rob

At 07:06 AM 6/8/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>I need help for doing a large penguin.  I have 3'x3' black craft paper off a
>large roll from the art
>room in school and I can get a piece of white the same size, but I would
>like to know if there is a
>place that has duo sided paper like origami paper that size or a method of
>putting the large papers
>together as smoothly as possible to create a more realistic looking penguin.
>Could some of the more
>experienced enthusiasts please offer their expertise on a way to do this?
>I'd appreciate your kind
>advice.  I have done large models of one color paper before, but this
>project is more difficult.
>Thanks,
>Ria Sutter





From: Dino Andreozzi <dion@HEM.PASSAGEN.SE>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 19:23:39 +0200
Subject: Information about Lillian Oppenheimer

Hi all,
I would like to ask the members of this list about the life and the works of
Lillian Oppenheimer. I received an e-mail for a couple of weeks ago from
Mark Kennedy. He told me that this year it will be Lillian Oppenheimer's
100th birthday. The association "Origami Sverige" would like to celebrate
this event with a big origami meeting in Stockholm from 23th october to 25th
october 1998.  I need to know more about Lillian Oppenheimer and all the
things she did for the origami world. Please send all informations privately
to my e-mail address:
dion@hem.passagen.se
I will give later more information about the October Meeting in Stockholm
 that will also be the 1st Scandinavian Origami Meeting) to the members of
this list.

Thanks in advance

Dino Andreozzi





From: Frommars@AOL.COM
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 19:38:13 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Super Complex Origami -Reply

where can i get instructions for the t-rex model?





From: Daniel Philip Scher <dps207@IS8.NYU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 21:50:24 -0500
Subject: origami in NYC

Hi,

For those of you in NYC, there's a great opportunity to see some 'origami
in motion.' At the Ricco Maresca gallery in Chelsea, there's an exhibit
through the end of June of the work of Arthur Ganson. His work consists of
all sorts of whimsical Rube Goldberg-like machines. And one machine in
particular, consists of about 10 flapping birds that move up and down and
literally flap, with the help of the machine's arms. Beautiful stuff. Hard
to describe here, but definitely worth seeing.

 -Daniel Scher





From: Gerry
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:01:16 -0400
Subject:

Can anyone comment on the differences between "Folding Spirals" and "Origami
Spirals"?   Thanks!  -Gerry





From: tommy <tomkat@DALLAS.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:11:39 -0500
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Rjlang@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
> and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough that
> I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:
>
> 1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
> bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
> cube?
[snip (problem 2)]
> For purposes of simplicity, we'll assume that the dollar bill is exactly 3
> units wide and 7 units long; the size of the cube should be expressed in the
> same units.
>
> Robert J. Lang
> rjlang@aol.com

I was prompted to look for a larger solution than the sqrt(2) solution
that I had previously posted. I now think that the largest cube that can
be completely wrapped by a single dollar bill with the only visible
seams along the edges of the cube is one with sides of length 1.5x where
x is equal to one unit. This solution does not use one of the flat
unfoldings of a cube. Rather, it is a pattern in which one square is
rotated at a 45 degree angle and is centered between two stacked squares
on either side. The sixth square is to the side of one of these stacks.
I have made a diagram and placed it online here:
http://www.dallas.net/~tomkat/billcube.gif
(this image is about 11k)

Tommy





From: Lindsey Barnes <HoofTap@AOL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:39:36 -0400 (
Subject: 1000 Cranes

I have two questions:

1.  I had a friend that died a yer ago and my friends and I are making 1000
cranes to place on her grave (she loved origami, as do i).  Now the question
is, how do i connect them? and is there any other traditions that are to be
observed when doing this 1000 cranes project?

2.  I live in the San Francisco Bay area, are there and upcoming origami
events that i should know about (OrigamiUSA, BARF (Bay area rapid folders),
etc. ).  With this crane project i'm really eager to learn more.

Thanks!!! ~*~*~*~Lindsey





From: Rob Moes <robert.moes@SNET.NET>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 00:00:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Insects and their Kins

Aaron Tu:

>I tried using 5"x5" origami square paper to fold the "Samurai Bettle",
>unfornately, I can't make the detail folds. All the sinking and
>unwrapping sort of dull and tear the tips. Any sugguestion and trick
>from the miniature experts. I would to like to keep the model as close
>to live size as possible or am I asking for trouble.

This is a very difficult model to make as a miniature, so don't be
discouraged if it takes many, many attempts.  Personally, I've never been
satisfied with a small insect model that wasn't foil-backed--they just seem
to hold up better over time without opening up or flattening out, and the
pointiness of the tips is marvelous.

Unfortunately colored foil makes it look more like something that belongs
on a Christmas tree....not a great choice where "realism" is the goal.

I have always liked using tissue-foil hybrids, but for a colored model
these tend to fade badly when ordinary tissue paper is used.  Seems that
unryu is very easy to find in assorted colors these days, and I've been
delighted using this as a backing with foil.  Any of the very thin Japanese
papers with natural fibers (rice, mulberry, silk) would be good choices for
experimenting.  Keep us posted on your efforts!

Rob





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:26:16 +0200
Subject: Spread-Squash issue

HI !

>At 11:06 AM 6/7/98 -0500, Terry Buse <tbuse@VSTA.COM>  wrote:

>>How do you flatten a spread squash. I came upon that fold trying to make a
>>bee. Mine look terrible. Help!

Then Marc Kirschenbaum wrote:

>One hint is to practice with the right sort of paper. Of you are using soft
>paper (or better yet, wet folding), squashes and sinks are muck easier to
>do. On the contrary, using paper that remembers a crease very well (such as
>papers that have some sort of foil content) can make spread shashes (and
>other folds) much more difficult to perform. Sometimes it is necessary to
>train your paper so the sqash flattens properly. When it is clear whear the
>edges of the squash should be placed, you can open up the model, add the
>necessary folds "manually," and then reform. Your squash fols should now
>snap into place.
>

Also Sonia Wu wrote:

>Usually if the fold is pre-creased (fold the flap over, bisecting the
>angle of the flap), then the squash fold works more easily.
>
>I pull gently on the tip of the flap to line it up with its destination
>point and to work the "cone of air" down to the beginning of the flap.
>At the same time I tap the section at the beginning of the flap to start
>coaxing the paper into the right shape.  Then press the folds into place.
>
>Sonia Wu
>(Florida)

And finally Sebastian Kirsch wrote

>With wet-folded paper, spread squashes are no problem at all; they simply
>fall into place. I often have problems with spread squashes and
>foil-backed paper; I usually help myself with poking at the inside of the
>squash with a chopstick. What is your trick?
>

Thanks for the "submissions". I'm lost halfway, Sonia. Sorry, it's my fault.

I do this way:

First fold a bird base with all flaps down. I will explain my technique on
this example.
Now you have one point on the top and four points on the sides that have no
raw edges (that is, they can be squash-folded). Now choose one of the side
points and raise it so that it will stand out 90 degrees from the base's
plane. Separate the two layers of the pocket and grabbing the edges pull the
point-to-be-squashed down as far as you can. Simultaneously the top section
will rise (as the paper is not willing to flatten). Now placing two of your
fingers on the sides of the two opened layers (put them where the spread
squash would end) and force the top (which is pointing up this time) dow.
This should execute the spread-squash neatly.

As I'm not sure that my text description is fine, I am attaching a gif file
about the movement.

Otherwise, some of the check pieces by Marc Kirschenbaum are perfect
examples for my trick, since they do the same but you even don't have to put
your two fingers to disable the side layers from moving, the model does this
for itself.

Peter Budai





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:26:48 +0200
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

At 04:54 PM 6/7/98 +0200, you wrote:

Hi Sebastian,

>BTW, people often ask me whether I play the guitar -- which is the one
>thing I can't do. ;-)

With me the same!
Otherwise it can be inconvenient while playing basketball. If you hear
something like "SSShrrrzzzz" than you wouldn't fold cranes that night...

>For small animals (small is up to 40cm square) I practically never use a
>support; when I happen to fold a geometrical model that is bigger (like a
>tesselation) I use the kitchen table. (Don't tell me I could find enough
>space on my writing desk!)

Well, I'm not addicted to my board, either, but sometimes it provides much
more chance to get special pre-creasing exact (fine insects). For example if
you should fold a half kite fold so that you should only crease the central
part, then holding the two ends of the fold you run out of arms to pinch the
center. On board, you can get this more easily.

>Squash-fold...
I've gathered these in another message to save space and nerves.

Tschss,

         Peter Budai
