




From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 15:03:59 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

I prefer to keep my origami small. They looks cuter. That's the reason I
prefer light weight paper. Memo pad paper is about the weight as origami
paper and it is much much cheaper for practice folds. I have tried using
20 lbs papers but it is hard to get the details, especially, if you are
in the Lang's World. It is almost impossible to prevent the white from
showing through if you are lucky enough not to end up with an UFO
(Unidentified Flying Origami). Whoooooop. In the trash it go. :)

Anyone with a remidy to the above problem? How about wet folding with
color paper without smearing? How about airbrushing the finished
origami? Regarding to the last question, is it a violation to the
origami tradition?

AT

>Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 13:58:08 -0500
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
>Subject:      Re: Idea for a personalized gift box
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>I have experience with folding printed paper here is what I have found;
>
>I have used HP desk 6xx series and 7xx series, (use the same ink).
>
>About paper sizes to print.
>If you choose an image that is say 240x240 pixels the image will print
>square on a piece of paper (if your printing program does not distort
>the image) so that you can easily cut it out with a straight edge and
>exacto knife.  So choose images (or resize them) to be the same number
>of pixels vertically as horizontally.  I use LVIEW (windows based and
>shareware) to print the images.
>
>About bonds and wrinkling.
>I have folded plain copier paper (20lb bond) and found the folding
>depends on the models somewhat.  So far I have not used this paper to
>fold anything really complex but I have folded a few Kawahata Dino's.
>Yes the paper does wrinkle from getting wet but I haven't found this to
>be a problem.
>
>Also, there is a benefit from the Inkjet type printers because they DO
>wet the paper.  If you fold the paper while the ink is still wet, it is
>very similar to Wet Folding techniques and the model holds shape very
>well.  The only drawback is that the ink is smeared.  I haven't found
>this to be a problem because I used muted and mottled pictures on the
>paper rather than a specific pattern (it makes for a model that is more
>natural looking than solid color and less brassy than a kooky pattern).
>So my basic Idea with the coloring of the paper is subtle color
>gradations.
>
>White showing through the creases.
>Only if you save the printed paper for a VERY VERY long time, the ink
>may crack and flake off.  And of course the white side of the paper may
>show if the model is predisposed to show white on certain parts or for
a
>color change.
>
>For examples of some of the models I have folded with printed paper go
>to
>
>www.i1.net/brett/origami.animals.html
>
>Main page www.i1.net/brett
>
>Check the Kawahata Dinos. it tells the types of paper used to fold each
>model.
>
>B R E T T
>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <contract@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 15:36:29 -0400
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

At 12:28 AM 6/5/98 -0400, Rjlang@AOL.COM wrote:
>I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
>and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough
that
>I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:
>
>1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
>bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
>cube?

I just did one that has each face's edge being 1/5th the length of the
bill. Of course, it does not hold together too well. Sorry, no proof on if
this is optimum.
>
>2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?

I would not even touch that one. I could use my drawing program, draw a
picture of a grouping of squares that form a cube, and enlarge the image
untill it fits snugly into the shape of a dollar bill. That does feel like
cheating though.

Marc





From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@CONCENTRA.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:10:09 -0400
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Robert Lang asks:

   I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
   and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough
     that
   I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:

   1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
   bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
   cube?

   2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?

   For purposes of simplicity, we'll assume that the dollar bill is exactly 3
   units wide and 7 units long; the size of the cube should be expressed in the
   same units.

The answer to (1) is a cube whose edges are 7/5 units long.  It is
possible to enumerate all the flat "unfoldings" of a cube -- patterns
of 6 squares joined along some of their edges, that can be folded to
cover a cube.  There are only about 12 or 13 of them, and the
"narrowest" fits into a rectangle measuring 2 by 5 units.  The squares
are laid out like this:

  XXX
XXX

Dividing the full length of the bill into 5 squares, measuring 7/5
units on a side, gives a height of 14/5, with a narrow strip 1/5 of a
unit wide to spare -- or tuck inside the model.

The answer to (2) will take some more thought.

        -- Jeannine Mosely





From: Douglas Zander <dzander@SOLARIA.SOL.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:16:44 -0500 (
Subject: Origami sighting.

In the June issue of _DESKTOP JOURNAL (A Realistic Approach to Computers and
Communications)_ under the section entitled, "Internet Hot Spots", there is
this article:

MONEY ORIGAMI
This cool ensemble of currency-as-sculpture includes spiders,
eyeglasses, sailboats, and framed portraits.  In a kind gesture of
goodwill, the site's designer also includes detailed instructions
and clear photographs on how to create these magnificent
objects d'art at home.  Don't miss the slew of money-related links
too. <<http://www.msd.si.net/~clay/money/>>

--
 Douglas Zander                |
 dzander@solaria.sol.net       |
 Shorewood, Wisconsin, USA     |





From: Carlos Alberto Furuti <furuti@AHAND.UNICAMP.BR>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:26:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

>>From: "V'Ann Cornelius" <vann@LHT.COM>
>>Subject:      Working Clock?
>>
>>[ported by V'Ann]
>>
>>Ellen Edersheim wrote:
>>
>>  looking for a paper clock - that really works - made out of colored
Well, supposing that "works" means "shows a running time", thus
excluding cuckoo clocks by Lang and others...
>>  paper - looking for pattern - do you know where could find it
You don't mean the original writer wants an _origami_ clock, do you?
Once I saw a book with a working paper clock, but you had to cut out
gears and other stuff from preprinted pages.

Don't know if the following's feasible, I'm just wondering:
A mechanical (ordinary) clock comprises:
- an engine (spring, weight, or motor) for spinning a main axis
- an escape device (anchor) for regulating the axis speed
- a set of gears for showing the regulated rotation in a preset scale
Most of the mechanism should be gears. A modular model by M.van Gelder allows
gears with arbitrary teeth (see origami archives in rugcis). Probably
one would use non-paper material for axis/supports. A weight hanging
from a thread would suffice as engine.

Joke of the day: make a Maekawa-san hourglass from transparent material,
empty a miniaturist folder's wastebasket in a bad day (collect a
handful of tiny crumpled balls of paper) and you have a working
all-paper clock...

        Sincerely,
                Carlos
        furuti@ahand.unicamp.br www.ahand.unicamp.br/~furuti





From: Wayne Ko <wko@ISTAR.CA>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 16:30:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Katana

Thanks all for correcting me.  I read the section again and it says the core
was made up of over 20 000 layers and not folded that number of times.  So
I'm the guilty party to blame for the misconception.  I guess my eyesight is
finally going or I just got carried away with my origami illusions (or
delusions) when I saw 20 000 folds...

Wayne Ko





From: Lisa Hodsdon <Lisa_Hodsdon@HMCO.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 17:12:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Cutting along creases... (was Re: Origami tricks and tools)

Andrew wrote:
>Fold over the paper where you want the cut and place
>the paper on a flat surface (a table top is ideal).  <snip>

For starters, you may find this easier if you align the crease
with the edge of the surface so that you are cutting away from
the surface.

>A craft knife is too sharp for this and produces a poor cut.

You mileage may vary. I find the problem with a craft knife (I
mean Exacto by that, I'm not sure if Andrew does) is that the
blade is too *short.* Ideally your blade should be as long as your
crease for a nice smooth cut. Practically, it should be short
enough to handle easily. I prefer a kitchen knife with a thin
3 to 3.5 inch blade. I get a much better cut with a sharp knife.

Try both. See which works better for you. Just don't use a
knife that's serrated!

Lisa
Lisa_Hodsdon@hmco.com





From: Jane Rosemarin <jfrmpls@SPACESTAR.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 17:39:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

A tip for using laser printers to decorate paper: Spray the page with
Krylon acrylic varnish (matte or glossy) after printing. This fixes the
toner and intensifies its blackness. Either varnish will add gloss.

This technique is also good when you are doing ordinary printing (not for
folding) and have large areas of black.

-Jane





From: Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 17:48:28 +0100 (
Subject: Re: Cutting along creases... (was Re: Origami tricks and tools)
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]

> > A butter knife. Ideal for cutting paper to produce a straight edge.
> > and..
>
> Could you explain this technique?  Are you cutting along a crease line?  I
     find

Hmmm, hard to describe without diagrams, but here goes ...

Fold over the paper where you want the cut and place the paper on a flat surface
(a table top is ideal).  While keeping the paper folded, put the knife between
the folds at about 45 degrees to the crease and pull the knife along and
towards yourself.  Holding the paper as flat as possible helps keep the
knife following the fold.

A craft knife is too sharp for this and produces a poor cut. This is more
like a controlled tear I suppose.  I always used to use this method for
cutting wrapping paper at Christmas and it sort of stuck.

A palette knife works just as well.
--
andrewd@redac.co.uk





From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 17:49:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami Heart
> At 12:14 PM 98/06/05 -0400, you wrote:
> >Don't know about it being soft edged but it certainly is 3 dimensional and a
> >great model. It even has Cupid's arrow running right through it!
> >If I recall correctly, it is a Lang model.
>
> That would be Peter Engel's "Valentine". For a simpler 3D heart model, try
> Gay Merrill Gross's "Heart Locket".

Or that would be Patricia Crawford's model...  I can't say I've ever compared
them at a detailed level though I do know that they are the same to level of
detail given above! ;-)

-D'gou

--
end
<a href="http://www.pgh.net/~dwp">Doug's Fun Page</a>





From: Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 17:58:34 +0100 (
Subject: Foil backed paper.
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]

There is an easy way to make this.
Buy some paper backed foil and turn it over. Hey-presto Foil backed paper !

Seriously...
  I find that using acrylic paints are good for colouring the paper side
  of foil paper.  I bought some paints a while ago but found it dried too
  quick for the fine detailed pictures I paint, so they were put in a drawer
  and forgotten about, until recently.

  Now I have the equivalent of duo-colour foil/matt paper, with a choice of
  almost any colour I like for the matt side. Within my colour mixing
  skills at least ;-)
--
andrewd@redac.co.uk





From: Jeff Kerwood <jkerwood@USAOR.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 18:34:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Cutting along creases... (was Re: Origami tricks and tools)

> Andrew wrote:
> >Fold over the paper where you want the cut and place
> >the paper on a flat surface (a table top is ideal).  <snip>

WOW - revelation!!!!

All this gave me an idea. A chefs fish filleting knife is EXACTLY made for
this maneuver. When filleting a fish (taking the skin off) a fish part with
skin on is laid on the table skin side down. The filleting knife (which has
a flexible blade) is "skimmed" between the skin and meat of the fillet. The
knife is drawn parallel to the table with the blade bent so that the handle
is several inches off the table. I just tried this (with paper, not fish,
of course) and MAN - COOL - works GREAT!!!

I'm not sure I explained this clearly. If anybody is interested but doesn't
get it you may email me privately.

Bye, Jeff





From: "R. Sutherland." <RGS467@AOL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 19:35:04 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Foil backed paper.

In a message dated 98-06-05 18:27:07 EDT, you write:

<<
 There's on drawback. Some models reveal both sides of the paper.
 Sometimes it is not desirable to have the other side showing up shiny.
 For that purpose, is there such thing as non-shiny foil-backed paper? >>

This is easily solved...  use tissue paper...and make sandwiches:
tissue/foil/tissue..
This works for me.

Russell : |





From: Wayne Fluharty <wflu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 20:30:36 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

>There is a book called "Make your own working paper clock".  The
>pages are heavy paper, you cut out 160 pieces and make a clock.
>Available from Amazon for $11.20 .
>
>I have a copy of the first book, sitting in a box somewhere.  I've
>never felt I had the time to do it...

I also have an original copy of this book and don't feel like I've ever
had the time to do it. Looking at my copy, the first thing that I
noticed was the paper clips, scissors, string, washers and gl*e...
although these items do not compose much of the clock itself. The book
does guarantee wrist-watch acuracy... Not exactly origami, but it is a
(mostly) paper construction.

Flu (Wayne Fluharty)
wflu@hotmail.com

______________________________________________________
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From: mSaliers <saliers@CONCENTRIC.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 20:44:23 -0700
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

I think question number two is actually the easier. I've just finished making a
     cube which I believe is the maximum dimensioned one. Here's my admittedly
     non-mathematical reasoning.

There is clearly plenty of paper in the lengthwise (7) direction.  So, the
     limiting factor has be in the other (3) direction.  The most paper
     econonomical way to use the paper in the width-wise direction is by
     "wrapping" the box top (and bottom) the way y

This was too easy. It can't possibly be right. I'm obviously missing something
     ... obvious. Oh well, have fun blowing it up, everyone!

>
> 1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
> bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
> cube?
>
> 2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?
>
> For purposes of simplicity, we'll assume that the dollar bill is exactly 3
> units wide and 7 units long; the size of the cube should be expressed in the
> same units.
>
> Robert J. Lang
> rjlang@aol.com





From: Edith Kort <ekort@MCLS.ROCHESTER.LIB.NY.US>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 22:36:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

There is a book called "Make your own working paper clock".  The pages
are heavy paper, you cut out 160 pieces and make a clock.  Available
from Amazon for $11.20 .  They also reference another paper clock book
which they say is out of print.

I have a copy of the first book, sitting in a box somewhere.  I've never
felt I had the time to do it, but I'd be glad to hear from someone who
did.

--
  Edith M. Kort
  Penfield NY





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 23:01:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

This reminds me that I've been meaning to pass along a great source for
origami tools:

Micro-Mark (1-800-225-1066)

They have a web site but I think it isn't up yet: www.micromark.com

Anyway, this is a catalog that specializes in tools for people doing
precision work. All kinds of dental and jewelers' tweezers with various
angles and tips.

They also some interesting clamps I've been experimenting with for
wetfolding. These are extra-small steel clamps with broad tips that are
designed not to mar. They seem to be marketed toward the
model-shipbuilders. Handy things but you have to weaken them a little bit
with pliers.

A nice selection of magnifying lenses too. The stand-alone models with
built-in lights for those trying to break the minature records.

pat slider.





From: tommy <tomkat@DALLAS.NET>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 01:58:27 -0500
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Rjlang@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
> and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough that
> I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:
>
> 1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
> bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
> cube?

I found a way to squeeze a little (very little) more than (7/5)x (where
x = 1 unit) per side of a cube out of the dollar. Instead of 7/5x, I
think the maximum side length is (square root of 2)x.
Here is how to fold it:

Since I'm not good at ascii art I'll have to explain with words.
First, divide the bill into a 3 by 7 grid (a real dollar will have a
little strip left on one edge). Now label the squares of the grid like
this...

abcdefg
hijklmn
opqrstu

Fold these lines:
from the lower left-hand corner of h to the upper right-hand corner of b
from the lower left-hand corner of p to the upper right-hand corner of d
from the lower left-hand corner of r to the upper right-hand corner of f
from the lower left-hand corner of t to the upper right-hand corner of n
and
from the upper left-hand corner of o to the lower right-hand corner of o
from the upper left-hand corner of i to the lower right-hand corner of q
from the upper left-hand corner of c to the lower right-hand corner of s
from the upper left-hand corner of e to the lower right-hand corner of m
from the upper left-hand corner of g to the lower right-hand corner of g

You will now have a secondary grid of six squares in a zig-zag or 'w'
shape (call it Charlie Brown's T-shirt). Each of these squares has sides
with length equal to (sq. rt. of 2)x  where x is equal to one unit. This
secondary grid of squares can now easily be folded into a cube with
sides of length (sq. rt. 2)x (which will not hold together). I'm not
sure (have no proof) that this is the largest cube possible but I think
it may be.

>
> 2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?
>

I'm still thinking about this.

Tommy





From: "James M. Sakoda" <James_Sakoda@BROWN.EDU>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 10:16:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

>Hi folks.  I'm working for a wonderful judge this summer & I'd like to
>leave him with some beautiful origami when I leave.  I've been racking
>my brains for a good model -- scales of justice?  A gavel? e tc.
>
>Just can't think of anything that seems to lend itself to origami.  I'm
>willing to try to figure out how to adapt sonobe modules to some sort of
>sculpture, but I still can't think of anything that seems like it will
>look nice.
>
>Any thoughts???
>
>-peace
>
>
>dahlia

In my Modern Origami, which was recently reprinted by Dover Publications,
there is a wise owl that can be used as a sculpture sitting on a shelf.
You should use foil paper, which has sufficient strength to stand up by
itself.  Ten inch foil paper will work fine.  If you use larger sheets, you
may need to double the paper to provide sufficient strength.  James M.
Sakoda





From: Wayne Fluharty <wflu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 10:29:03 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

>Two pieces of "legal size" paper, folded into the $ Bill Pantsuit,
>i.e. "A Legal Suit"?
>
>$ Bill picture frame around George Washington's portrait,
>or a bust of George washington from legal-size paper,
>using Kenneway's techniques;
>a pun for "a legal precedent (president)"?

And since we are on bad puns, I would also add David Brill's
"spectacles" since justice is blind...

Flu (Wayne Fluharty)
wflu@hotmail.com

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From: Dahlia Schwartz <dahlias@BU.EDU>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 10:46:50 -0400
Subject: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

Hi folks.  I'm working for a wonderful judge this summer & I'd like to
leave him with some beautiful origami when I leave.  I've been racking
my brains for a good model -- scales of justice?  A gavel? e tc.

Just can't think of anything that seems to lend itself to origami.  I'm
willing to try to figure out how to adapt sonobe modules to some sort of
sculpture, but I still can't think of anything that seems like it will
look nice.

Any thoughts???

-peace

dahlia





From: Terry Buse <tbuse@VSTA.COM>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 11:16:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

I've got one of those plastic "things" that you have described but it came
with our dish antennae to program channels on our remote

-----Original Message-----
Date: Saturday, June 06, 1998 10:16 AM

>At 04:16 PM 6/4/98 -0400, D'gou wrote:
>
>
>>Probably my all time favorite tool is something that I got from Michael
Verry
>>at one of the conventions, its a plastic electronics tool, blunted tip at
one
>>end, flat blade (like a flat blade screw driver) on the other.
>>
>>Standing on the shoulders, or at least weilding the tools of, giants,
>>                -D'gou
>
>
>Yesh, I have that one, too. It's the one I described as a "pointy plastic
>whatisit" in my earlier reply on this subject, but this description is far
>better.
>
>Peter Budai





From: Kenny1414@AOL.COM
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 12:54:41 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

In a message dated 98-06-06 11:22:36 EDT, you write:

> Hi folks.  I'm working for a wonderful judge this summer & I'd like to
>  leave him with some beautiful origami when I leave.  I've been racking
>  my brains for a good model -- scales of justice?  A gavel? e tc.
>
>  Just can't think of anything that seems to lend itself to origami.

Some ideas:

Statue of Liberty?

$ Bill Torah Scroll?

Two pieces of "legal size" paper, folded into the $ Bill Pantsuit,
i.e. "A Legal Suit"?

A Book?

$ Bill picture frame around George Washington's portrait,
or a bust of George washington from legal-size paper,
using Kenneway's techniques;
a pun for "a legal precedent (president)"?

Aloha,
Kenneth M. Kawamura





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 15:58:43 +0200
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

At 04:16 PM 6/4/98 -0400, D'gou wrote:

>Probably my all time favorite tool is something that I got from Michael Verry
>at one of the conventions, its a plastic electronics tool, blunted tip at one
>end, flat blade (like a flat blade screw driver) on the other.
>
>Standing on the shoulders, or at least weilding the tools of, giants,
>                -D'gou

Yesh, I have that one, too. It's the one I described as a "pointy plastic
whatisit" in my earlier reply on this subject, but this description is far
better.

Peter Budai





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 15:58:46 +0200
Subject: Re: favorite models

At 01:35 PM 6/5/98 PDT, you wrote:

>I am glad someone mentioned Eric Joisel. I am very impressed by his work
>of art. Unfortunately, I could not find and book written by him.
>I was told that he has never written any book. I would really appreciate
>if you could please email me diagrams of some of his works?
>The turtle, the rooster, the ground hogs, the rats, and etc. Anything
>would be greatly appreciate.
>
>AT
>aaron_tu@hotmail.com
>

Well, unfortunately I can't email the diagrams, though I can tell you where
can you find some. These resources are

- Convention book of the 1997 Convention in Zaragoza: pages 155-161: models:

        -Dragon
        -Rat
        -Rooster

  It's a shame but these are scanned diagrams and it's are very hard to see
the   lines (each diagram is something like a black blur, this is because
the   original diagrams were too shaded). But you can follow it indeed (at
least, I   folded the Rooster without any major difficulty).

- Brithish Origami nr. 189. There is an article about Eric Joisel
accompanied by   the diagrams for the Rat (this time it's good quality
printing).

That's all I know about. Hope that I could help you with this.

Peter Budai





From: Kenny1414@AOL.COM
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 22:17:41 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

In a message dated 98-06-06 13:30:46 EDT, you write:

> >Two pieces of "legal size" paper, folded into the $ Bill Pantsuit,
>  >i.e. "A Legal Suit"?
>  >
>  >$ Bill picture frame around George Washington's portrait,
>  >or a bust of George washington from legal-size paper,
>  >using Kenneway's techniques;
>  >a pun for "a legal precedent (president)"?
>
>  And since we are on bad puns, I would also add David Brill's
>  "spectacles" since justice is blind...
>
>  Flu (Wayne Fluharty)
>  wflu@hotmail.com

Hmm ... Dark spectacles, a cane, and maybe a seeing-eye dog?

Aloha,
kenny1414@aol.com (Kenneth M. Kawamura)





From: Kenny1414@AOL.COM
Date: Sat, 06 Jun 1998 22:17:44 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

In a message dated 98-06-06 11:22:36 EDT, you write:

> Hi folks.  I'm working for a wonderful judge this summer & I'd like to
>  leave him with some beautiful origami when I leave.  I've been racking
>  my brains for a good model -- scales of justice?  A gavel? e tc.
>
>  Just can't think of anything that seems to lend itself to origami.

Another idea:
a book, a claw, an eye, and a tooth.

The Lex Talionis, "an eye for an eye ...",
I think it's from the Code of Hammurabi,
one of the earliest legal codes.
(I may be wrong about the translation of talionis. Anyone know?)

Aloha,
kenny1414@aol.com (Kenneth M. Kawamura)





From: tommy <tomkat@DALLAS.NET>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 04:29:21 -0500
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Rjlang@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
> and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough that
> I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:
>
>
> 1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
> bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
> cube?
>
> 2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?
>
> For purposes of simplicity, we'll assume that the dollar bill is exactly 3
> units wide and 7 units long; the size of the cube should be expressed in the
> same units.

I've been thinking about question two quite a bit and have come up with
an answer that might be right. I approached question two in much the
same way as I approached question one (see my previous post in this
thread). My answer is a cube with sides of length [x(sq.rt. of 26)]/3 or
approximately 1.7x (where x = 1 unit). I drew up a diagram and put it
online here:

http://www.dallas.net/~tomkat/maxcube.gif
(this file is about 14k)

If for some reason you can't view this image I can write up some text
instructions for folding it. The way the two faces of this cube that
have seams are covered is interesting. It is sort of a pleated spiral. I
keep folding it and unfolding it -- it's like a pill bug. Fascinating.
Now if I could *prove* that this was the right answer!

Tommy





From: "Julian A." <hullianx13@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 08:26:57 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Origami Tricks and tools

I use a plastic board which provides a hard surface to fold on

A small pocketknife to cut the paper I have into squares

A ruler and a compass-Where I want to make a great fold I take the ruler
place it where I want to fold, and then with the compass I take the
point and sort off cut across the paper-Then It is easier to fold and
very precise-The compass point is dull enough not to cut the paper

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From: "Julian A." <hullianx13@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 08:30:58 -0700 (
Subject: Lang's Valentine

In the book Origami From Angelfish to Zen, by Peter Engel, there is a
model for a valentine on page 124.  I am stuck in step 11-12.  I do as I
am told in step 11, but end up with a shorter and wider shaft than shown
in the picture in step 11.  Help!!!

If you want to be extra helpfulyou can also explain step 19-20 of the
hummingbird-the legs

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From: Sebastian Marius Kirsch <skirsch@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 09:39:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Good Origami Models for a Judge?

On Sat, 6 Jun 1998 Kenny1414@AOL.COM wrote:
> Hmm ... Dark spectacles, a cane, and maybe a seeing-eye dog?

Oh yes ... and maybe twenty-seven eight-by-ten colored glossy photographs
with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one. ;-)

Yours, Sebastian                                       skirsch@t-online.de
                        /or/ sebastian_kirsch@kl.maus.de (no mail > 16KB!)





From: Terry Buse <tbuse@VSTA.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 11:06:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

How do you flatten a spread squash. I came upon that fold trying to make a
bee. Mine look terrible. Help!
Terry

-----Original Message-----
Date: Sunday, June 07, 1998 8:47 AM

>I doubt that this message from me reached the list. If it did, then excuse
>me for duplicating it.
>___________________________________________Peter
>
>So about the tools.
>
>The ones I use:
>
>Nr.1
>
>Nails! This is the best tool I have and it's always at hand (on hand?)
>It's very useful, when you NEED to iron that crease. If you're folding
>softly, then of course, nails are no other than decoration.
>
>Nr.2
>
>If my fingers fail to reach inside the interior of a model, I have a
>pointy plastic whatisit (I got it from a friend, Michael Verry - thanks
>a lot-) to make my folding life easier. With this tool any otherwise
>awkward sink becomes a neat one.
>
>Nr.3
>
>If I need to fold on a solid flat surface, I have a lightweight wooden
board
>that I can put on the two armrest part of the chair and so it's much
convenient.
>
>That's it.
>
>Just one thing more. The question was about tricks as well. I thought of a
>"folding trick". How do you manage to flatten spread squashes? I have a way
>that works very well and I'm eager if how YOU do it.
>
>Peter Budai





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 13:22:07 +0200
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

I doubt that this message from me reached the list. If it did, then excuse
me for duplicating it.
___________________________________________Peter

So about the tools.

The ones I use:

Nr.1

Nails! This is the best tool I have and it's always at hand (on hand?)
It's very useful, when you NEED to iron that crease. If you're folding
softly, then of course, nails are no other than decoration.

Nr.2

If my fingers fail to reach inside the interior of a model, I have a
pointy plastic whatisit (I got it from a friend, Michael Verry - thanks
a lot-) to make my folding life easier. With this tool any otherwise
awkward sink becomes a neat one.

Nr.3

If I need to fold on a solid flat surface, I have a lightweight wooden board
that I can put on the two armrest part of the chair and so it's much convenient.

That's it.

Just one thing more. The question was about tricks as well. I thought of a
"folding trick". How do you manage to flatten spread squashes? I have a way
that works very well and I'm eager if how YOU do it.

Peter Budai





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 14:50:17 -0400
Subject: Engel's Valentine (was Re: Lang's Valentine)

At 08:30 AM 6/7/98 -0700,"Julian A." <hullianx13@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>In the book Origami From Angelfish to Zen, by Peter Engel, there is a
>model for a valentine on page 124.  I am stuck in step 11-12.  I do as I
>am told in step 11, but end up with a shorter and wider shaft than shown
>in the picture in step 11.  Help!!!

You might not actually be stuck. One of the weaknesses of perspective
drawings is that it is sometimes hard to determine if your results are at
the proper dimensions. If your hert shft alighs properly in step 14 (where
it is clearer as to where the shaft alighs onto the heart), then you are fine.

>
>If you want to be extra helpfulyou can also explain step 19-20 of the
>hummingbird-the legs
>

Those steps are very simmilar to the way the wings of the flapping
bird/crane are made. If you hae a decent beginner level book, that
procedure might be explained well. In step 19, you are asked to separate
the bottom edges of the indicated flap while swinging it into the position
of step 20. When you flatten it, it should resemble the diagram of step 20.
From there you are asked to petal fold the legs. Pulling the leg upwards
will cause the side edges to be pulled inward towards the center of the
leg. At a certain point, both side edges will meet at the center, at which
point you can flatten the legs. Good luck.

Marc





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 14:56:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

At 11:06 AM 6/7/98 -0500, Terry Buse <tbuse@VSTA.COM>  wrote:
>How do you flatten a spread squash. I came upon that fold trying to make a
>bee. Mine look terrible. Help!

One hint is to practice with the right sort of paper. Of you are using soft
paper (or better yet, wet folding), squashes and sinks are muck easier to
do. On the contrary, using paper that remembers a crease very well (such as
papers that have some sort of foil content) can make spread shashes (and
other folds) much more difficult to perform. Sometimes it is necessary to
train your paper so the sqash flattens properly. When it is clear whear the
edges of the squash should be placed, you can open up the model, add the
necessary folds "manually," and then reform. Your squash fols should now
snap into place.

Marc





From: Christopher DeFlavis <elan@LELAND.STANFORD.EDU>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 15:25:03 -0700
Subject: unsubscribe

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christopher De Flavis
Information Systems Administrator
Stanford University, Student Housing Services
mail code:  8581
   e-mail:  elan@leland.stanford.edu
telephone:  650-725-8288
      fax:  650-725-4069





From: Sebastian Marius Kirsch <skirsch@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 16:54:41 +0200
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Hello Peter!

On Sun, 7 Jun 1998, Peter Budai wrote:
> Nails! This is the best tool I have and it's always at hand (on hand?)
> It's very useful, when you NEED to iron that crease.

I have also grown the nails of my thumb and of my index finger longer than
the other ones -- on both hands, since I realized that I fold almost as
much with my left hand as with my right hand. I have grown them long in
their whole width, but I have noticed that Peter Koppen, the MicroShip
producer from Munich, has filed his nails into two small points which he
uses like tweezer and which enable him to fold tiny ships only with his
hands.

BTW, people often ask me whether I play the guitar -- which is the one
thing I can't do. ;-)

> If my fingers fail to reach inside the interior of a model, I have a
> pointy plastic whatisit (I got it from a friend, Michael Verry - thanks
> a lot-) to make my folding life easier.

I use a thin Japanese chopstick for that very purpose -- Chinese
chopsticks are too thick. ;-)

> If I need to fold on a solid flat surface, I have a lightweight wooden
> board that I can put on the two armrest part of the chair and so it's
> much convenient.

For small animals (small is up to 40cm square) I practically never use a
support; when I happen to fold a geometrical model that is bigger (like a
tesselation) I use the kitchen table. (Don't tell me I could find enough
space on my writing desk!)

> How do you manage to flatten spread squashes? I have a way that works
> very well and I'm eager if how YOU do it.

With wet-folded paper, spread squashes are no problem at all; they simply
fall into place. I often have problems with spread squashes and
foil-backed paper; I usually help myself with poking at the inside of the
squash with a chopstick. What is your trick?

Yours, Sebastian                                       skirsch@t-online.de
                        /or/ sebastian_kirsch@kl.maus.de (no mail > 16KB!)





From: Basyrett@AOL.COM
Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 20:35:35 -0400 (
Subject: Origami to the Rescue

Hello to all!
Although this message was sent earlier, I believe that ist might not have been
posted.  So I'm trying again and my apologies to all if this a repeat.

        This past weekend, I was chaperoning my school district's team at the NY
State Games for the Physically Challenged.  One of our athelete's, Jessica,
has
cerebal palsy .  At dinner the 1st night, Jessica asked for a straw or a cup
because she could not lift and hold her can of soda.  We asked everyone but
not a straw or a cup was in site.  Suddenly, a light came on,  I ripped the
cover off the Games Program and folded a traditional cup.
        Jessica used the cup until the can was light enough for her to hold.
     She was
so excited that we were all laughing at her and the wonder of origami.   Next
thing I knew parents and students from our team were asking to learn how to
make a cup.
        There are many events at the Games but this was the first origami event
     in
the Games history!!
        Long Live Origami!

Barbara  :-)

Cheers
Barbara





From: John Sutter <sutterj@EARTHLINK.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 07:06:40 -0700
Subject: Easy model for wetfolding

Greetings again,
I know there has been a lot of advice about wet folding and I should just
check the archives, but if any
body would care to suggest an easy model for somebody to try for the first
time I'd appreciate it!
Ria  ^   ^





From: John Sutter <sutterj@EARTHLINK.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 07:06:49 -0700
Subject: LARGE MODELS

Greetings,
I need help for doing a large penguin.  I have 3'x3' black craft paper off a
large roll from the art
room in school and I can get a piece of white the same size, but I would
like to know if there is a
place that has duo sided paper like origami paper that size or a method of
putting the large papers
together as smoothly as possible to create a more realistic looking penguin.
Could some of the more
experienced enthusiasts please offer their expertise on a way to do this?
I'd appreciate your kind
advice.  I have done large models of one color paper before, but this
project is more difficult.
Thanks,
Ria Sutter





From: April Ammons <azureus@PROBE.NET>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 07:09:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Working Clock?
At 11:18 AM 6/8/98 +0000, you wrote:

>Indeed I designed gear wheels (see diagrams and photo in the archives).
>I think I can also adapt the gear wheels to make the clockwork for a real
>clock. Folding that takes a lot of time. I think you may fold one segment
>in one eveneing and you need 4, 5 or 6 segment per wheel and 10 (?)
>wheels: that's 50 evenings!
>
>But the axes, well I don't know if they can be paper also. For a real
>running clock at least.
>
>Maybe the escape device is also possible from origami. Together with a
>weight.
>In the actual gear wheels I use an electric motor to drive the small
>wheel.
>
>
>Maarten van Gelder,           RC-ICT RuG,      RijksUniversiteit Groningen
>M.J.van.Gelder@rc.rug.nl                       Nederland
>
After making some of your gear wheels, I've been toying with the idea of
making
them part of a revolving origami display--the gears would be used to turn a
platform (folded from paper, of course!) on which different models would be
displayed.
I just haven't figured out to my satisfaction how to power it.  I suppose
that an
internal combustion engine folded from paper wouldn't last long!

April Ammons





From: David Steere <dsteere@SIL.SI.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 07:48:42 -0400
Subject: Super Complex Origami -Reply

Thanks, Aaron.  Just out of curiosity, what kind and size of paper did you use
     for the
t-rex skeleton.  I am just about to make a large order from Fascinating Folds in
Phoenix.   D.

_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
     _/
_/     David T. Steere, Jr./Senior Reference Librarian                _/
_/     National Museum of Natural History Branch Library          _/
_/     10th & Constitution Ave., NW
     _/
_/      Washington DC  20560
     _/
_/      phone: 202-357-4696
     _/
_/      fax: 202-357-1896
     _/
_/      email: dsteere@sil.si.edu
     _/
_/
     _/
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/

>>> Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM> 06/05/98 12:53pm >>>
Hello David,

I have just finished Yoshino's T-Rex (not in SuperComplex) and
Triceratops sometimes ago. I can asure you that you are correct on using
the same size square papers. I beleive that hold true if not all, but
most of Yoshino's designs. That's the beauty of it.

Let me know if you get to the wild boar.

AT

>1)  I just received as a gift Issei's wonderful SUPERCOMPLEX ORIGAMI.
However, I
>can't find any indication of the paper sizes to be used for the
motorcycle models and
>especially for the modular dinosaur skeleton.  I can't imagine the
pieces making up
>the skeleton all are folded from the same size sheet of paper.

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From: "Sonia Wu (NC)" <swu@VIRTU.SAR.USF.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 08:32:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami for a Judge

In Momotani's Origami Constellations there's a model for the
scales (Libra).  At least, I think there is.

Maybe you could make one of the hina dolls out of black/white paper?

Sonia Wu
(Florida)





From: "Sonia Wu (NC)" <swu@VIRTU.SAR.USF.EDU>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 08:47:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Squash Fold Technique

Some or all of this I might have gotten from one of Michael LaFosse's
videos.  And I think it was a topic of discussion at dinner at the last
convention (a woman named Sherell had just been to an introductory
techniques class and was talking about it so it may have come from the
class).

Usually if the fold is pre-creased (fold the flap over, bisecting the
angle of the flap), then the squash fold works more easily.

I pull gently on the tip of the flap to line it up with its destination
point and to work the "cone of air" down to the beginning of the flap.
At the same time I tap the section at the beginning of the flap to start
coaxing the paper into the right shape.  Then press the folds into place.

Sonia Wu
(Florida)





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:16:34 -0700
Subject: Unsubscribing from the Origami Mailing List (was Re: unsubscribe)

At 03:25 PM 98/06/07 -0700, you wrote:
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Christopher De Flavis
>Information Systems Administrator
>Stanford University, Student Housing Services
>mail code:  8581
>   e-mail:  elan@leland.stanford.edu
>telephone:  650-725-8288
>      fax:  650-725-4069
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>

You can unsubscribe from the Origami List by sending the following command
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signoff origami

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:38:48 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Foil backed paper.

What do you mean? Tissue? How?

AT

>Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 19:35:04 EDT
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         "R. Sutherland." <RGS467@AOL.COM>
>Subject:      Re: Foil backed paper.
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>In a message dated 98-06-05 18:27:07 EDT, you write:
>
><<
> There's on drawback. Some models reveal both sides of the paper.
> Sometimes it is not desirable to have the other side showing up shiny.
> For that purpose, is there such thing as non-shiny foil-backed paper?
>>
>
>
>This is easily solved...  use tissue paper...and make sandwiches:
>tissue/foil/tissue..
>This works for me.
>
>Russell : |
>

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:47:28 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Working Clock?

Out of curiosity, did I hear wrist-watch acuracy? With paper, string,
and g**e? What's the time keeping mechanism?

AT

>Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 20:30:36 PDT
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         Wayne Fluharty <wflu@HOTMAIL.COM>
>Subject:      Re: Working Clock?
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>>There is a book called "Make your own working paper clock".  The
>>pages are heavy paper, you cut out 160 pieces and make a clock.
>>Available from Amazon for $11.20 .
>>
>>I have a copy of the first book, sitting in a box somewhere.  I've
>>never felt I had the time to do it...
>
>I also have an original copy of this book and don't feel like I've ever
>had the time to do it. Looking at my copy, the first thing that I
>noticed was the paper clips, scissors, string, washers and gl*e...
>although these items do not compose much of the clock itself. The book
>does guarantee wrist-watch acuracy... Not exactly origami, but it is a
>(mostly) paper construction.
>
>Flu (Wayne Fluharty)
>wflu@hotmail.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

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From: "Matthew Sparks (05-025)" <Matthew_Sparks@USA.PINKERTONS.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 10:53:59 -0700
Subject: Re: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

Very Elegant!
I don't know if it is the "correct answer" but he was able to come up
with what I was trying and failing at.
Nice drawing!.
________________________________
        |Matthew M.   Sparks                                |
        |Senior UNIX Systems Administrator        |
        |Pinkerton                                                  |
        |15910 Ventura Blvd. Suite 900                |
        |Encino, CA 91436                         _  USA|
|Desk (818) 380-8712 Fax (818) 3808677|

        -----Original Message-----
        http://www.dallas.net/~tomkat/maxcube.gif
        (this file is about 14k)

        If for some reason you can't view this image I can write up some
text
        instructions for folding it. The way the two faces of this cube
that
        have seams are covered is interesting. It is sort of a pleated
spiral. I
        keep folding it and unfolding it -- it's like a pill bug.
Fascinating.
        Now if I could *prove* that this was the right answer!

        Tommy





From: "Matthew Sparks (05-025)" <Matthew_Sparks@USA.PINKERTONS.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:13:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Lang's Valentine

I just did this one night before last.
But my book it as home so I'm not sure which is step 11.
I know where I went wrong was about step 8ish I didn't catch my mistake
until I am where you are know
Bringing up the arrow shaft. Go back about 3 -4 steps and make sure you
did all the reverse folds correctly.
I will check my book tonight and get back to you tommorrow.
________________________________
        |Matthew M.   Sparks                                |
        |Senior UNIX Systems Administrator        |
        |Pinkerton                                                  |
        |15910 Ventura Blvd. Suite 900                |
        |Encino, CA 91436                         _  USA|
|Desk (818) 380-8712 Fax (818) 3808677|

        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Julian A. [SMTP:hullianx13@HOTMAIL.COM]
        Sent:   Sunday, June 07, 1998 8:31 AM
        To:     ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
        Subject:        Lang's Valentine

        In the book Origami From Angelfish to Zen, by Peter Engel, there
is a
        model for a valentine on page 124.  I am stuck in step 11-12.  I
do as I
        am told in step 11, but end up with a shorter and wider shaft
than shown
        in the picture in step 11.  Help!!!

        If you want to be extra helpfulyou can also explain step 19-20
of the
        hummingbird-the legs

        ______________________________________________________
        Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Maarten van Gelder <M.J.van.Gelder@RC.RUG.NL>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:18:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Working Clock?
Priority: normal

> Don't know if the following's feasible, I'm just wondering:
> A mechanical (ordinary) clock comprises:
> - an engine (spring, weight, or motor) for spinning a main axis
> - an escape device (anchor) for regulating the axis speed
> - a set of gears for showing the regulated rotation in a preset scale
> Most of the mechanism should be gears. A modular model by M.van Gelder allows
> gears with arbitrary teeth (see origami archives in rugcis). Probably
> one would use non-paper material for axis/supports. A weight hanging
> from a thread would suffice as engine.

Indeed I designed gear wheels (see diagrams and photo in the archives).
I think I can also adapt the gear wheels to make the clockwork for a real
clock. Folding that takes a lot of time. I think you may fold one segment
in one eveneing and you need 4, 5 or 6 segment per wheel and 10 (?)
wheels: that's 50 evenings!

But the axes, well I don't know if they can be paper also. For a real
running clock at least.

Maybe the escape device is also possible from origami. Together with a
weight.
In the actual gear wheels I use an electric motor to drive the small
wheel.

Maarten van Gelder,           RC-ICT RuG,      RijksUniversiteit Groningen
M.J.van.Gelder@rc.rug.nl                       Nederland





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <contract@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:21:49 -0400
Subject: Origami sighting

Barnes and Noble is advertising a lecture with Sergei Afonkin at the
Lincoln Triangle location from 2:00-3:00 on Sat 27, for his new book,
"Russian Origami" (which was done with Tom Hull). This date of copurse is
during the OrigamiUSA Convention, so if you you will be there, you will
probably see Sergei anyway (and Tom too, for that matter). It is nice that
this new book is getting some publicity.

Marc





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:31:19 -0700 (
Subject: Re: favorite models

I am in LA, USA. Where can I find the book? Is there an ISBN?

AT
>
>Well, unfortunately I can't email the diagrams, though I can tell you
where
>can you find some. These resources are
>
>- Convention book of the 1997 Convention in Zaragoza: pages 155-161:
models:
>
>        -Dragon
>        -Rat
>        -Rooster
>
>  It's a shame but these are scanned diagrams and it's are very hard to
see
>the   lines (each diagram is something like a black blur, this is
because
>the   original diagrams were too shaded). But you can follow it indeed
(at
>least, I   folded the Rooster without any major difficulty).
>
>- Brithish Origami nr. 189. There is an article about Eric Joisel
>accompanied by   the diagrams for the Rat (this time it's good quality
>printing).
>
>
>That's all I know about. Hope that I could help you with this.
>
>Peter Budai
>

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From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:39:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

For some great tools to experiment with I really recomend the micromark
catalog ("the small tool specialist"). Here's some contact information:

Micro*mark
340 Snyder Avenue
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922-1595
1-800-225-1066
http://www.micromark.com/

These guys specialize in selling tools for precision work. Looks like most
of the catalog is online at this point.

Lots of dental and jeweler's tweezers with special angles and tips. You can
even get sets of matt black tweezers that don't reflect as much. Also fun
to experiment with when wetfolding are some extra small clamps marketed for
model ship builders -- designed not to mar. (I'm still deciding what I
think about the cross clamps I got from these guys. Extra-strong so they
needed to be weakened a little. Work well, but being made from steel they
are perhaps too heavy. There are two other kinds of microclamps that I
haven't tried myself.)

This catalog also has a small selection of table magnifying lenses, the
ones on stands with built-in lights. Useful for those minatures.

I've posted about this before so in brief....My favorite tools are still
the old embossing tool with round points, and the stone rounds, cabs, found
in rock shops. The embosser is useful for scoring creases and whenever I
need help opening up a flap or poking an edge under. The stones tuck nicely
in the palm and help put in a nice crease. Perhaps the stones don't do the
best job, but they sure are fun to handle.

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Pat Slider <slider@STONECUTTER.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 11:44:18 -0700
Subject: Sorry for the redundancy!

Sorry for the second version of my tool posting! I had gotten a message
saying that my first message bounced; hence the second version.

At least there were a few more details the second time around :->.

pat slider
slider@stonecutter.com





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 12:18:27 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Super Complex Origami -Reply

On Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:48:42 -0400 , David Steere wrote:

>Thanks, Aaron.  Just out of curiosity, what kind and size of paper did
you use for the
>t-rex skeleton.  I am just about to make a large order from Fascinating
Folds in
>Phoenix.   D.
>

The very first time I used 8.5"x11" paper cut into squares. The model
ended up too large. Bigger that my 17" monitor. On the second attempt, I
used memo pad paper cut into squares. I beleive the dimensions are
approximately 3"x3" or 4"x4". The resulting model can be set on top of
my computer monitor.

This model took my 3 weeks to finish. It is not too difficult (compare
to Rober Lang's), but it is quite time consuming. It took me an hour to
fold each tail section. Anyone has any trick to speed up the process? I
found it very hard to sink the corners of the tail. How do you make
those diamond shape creases (Keep in mind I used 3"x3" square.)?

Hope that'll help.

AT

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 12:26:34 -0700 (
Subject: Re: LARGE MODELS

How about air-brushing one side of a 3'x3' craft paper black?
Inexpensively, charcoal one side and hair-spray it so it won't get
dirty.

AT

>Date:         Mon, 8 Jun 1998 07:06:49 -0700
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         John Sutter <sutterj@EARTHLINK.NET>
>Subject:      LARGE MODELS
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>Greetings,
>I need help for doing a large penguin.  I have 3'x3' black craft paper
off a
>large roll from the art
>room in school and I can get a piece of white the same size, but I
would
>like to know if there is a
>place that has duo sided paper like origami paper that size or a method
of
>putting the large papers
>together as smoothly as possible to create a more realistic looking
penguin.
>Could some of the more
>experienced enthusiasts please offer their expertise on a way to do
this?
>I'd appreciate your kind
>advice.  I have done large models of one color paper before, but this
>project is more difficult.
>Thanks,
>Ria Sutter
>

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From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 12:50:06 -0700 (
Subject: Insects and their Kins

In reference to Robert Lang's book title "Insects and Their Kins":

The first few pages in the books show photographs of several insects
models. They are of extra ordinary small scale. What are the paper sizes
and types? Maybe this is a question of Robert.

I tried using 5"x5" origami square paper to fold the "Samurai Bettle",
unfornately, I can't make the detail folds. All the sinking and
unwrapping sort of dull and tear the tips. Any sugguestion and trick
from the miniature experts. I would to like to keep the model as close
to live size as possible or am I asking for trouble. Afterall, we are in
the Lang's World. :)

AT

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