




From: Barbra0336@AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 00:59:39 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Furniture money folds

In a message dated 6/2/98 2:25:22 PM, you wrote:

<<Does anyone have instructions for folding furniture (table, chair etc.) from
> money?  I would like to give a wedding gift to someone who, I know, needs
> furniture!  I should mention that I'll be using Canadian money which is
2-3/4" x
> 6".
>
> Brenda>>

These are not folded with money but you may be able to adapt them.
Magic of Origami, Gray/Kasahara - bench, chair and table
Origami for Beginners, Florence Temko  - table, chair, bed, sofa, table, stool
Fascinating Folds, Vicente Palacios - sofa, armchair
Secrets of Origami, Robert Harbin - sofa

Have fun!  Barbara





From: Kathie Frano & Kids <KatFrano@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 06:34:25 -0700
Subject: Idea for a personalized gift box

Hello, I am a new folder, and I came up with an idea I'd like to share with
     this list. It involves using a non-traditional type of paper for folding,
     so if I am offending anyone, I apologize.
Besides my interest in Origami, I am also into digital photography.  I was
     playing around with Adobe Photo Shop, making some almost-abstract patterns
     using a photo of my dog, and applying various filters to the photo.  I
     suddenly thought the patterns woul

To make a gift for a friend, I used a photo of her daughter; she really loved
     it!  For anyone out there who is into graphics, digital photography, etc,
     it's a good way to combine one hobby with another to make someone a gift
     that's uniquely you!
My home page URL:   http://home.att.net/~KatFrano , then click on "Chihuahua
     Origami" to see the box I made.
To go directly to the origami part of my home page (and skip all the cute
     chihuahua photos!)
click here:   http://home.att.net/~KatFrano/Origami.html#Chihuahua%20Origami

Kathie Frano
KatFrano@worldnet.att.net





From: Nigel Pottle <fowlerj1@CADVISION.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 09:27:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Furniture money folds

There are some great furniture folds in an old book which was published
originally in 1948! It's called The Art of Chinese Origami by Maying Soong.
I once replied to a message on this listserv by describing the folding
sequence in text which should be followable. Unfortunately, I have no idea
what the subject line was so finding it in the message archives could be
challenging. If you wish I can attempt it again, but you could email me
privately. The fold is a sofa with back, arms and legs. It can be folded
with any size rectangle, or a square so our five dollar bills would be just
fine.

Nigel

----------
> From: Barbra0336@AOL.COM
> To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: Furniture money folds
> Date: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 10:59 PM
>
> In a message dated 6/2/98 2:25:22 PM, you wrote:
>
> <<Does anyone have instructions for folding furniture (table, chair etc.)
from
> > money?  I would like to give a wedding gift to someone who, I know,
needs
> > furniture!  I should mention that I'll be using Canadian money which is
> 2-3/4" x
> > 6".
> >
> > Brenda>>
>
> These are not folded with money but you may be able to adapt them.
> Magic of Origami, Gray/Kasahara - bench, chair and table
> Origami for Beginners, Florence Temko  - table, chair, bed, sofa, table,
stool
> Fascinating Folds, Vicente Palacios - sofa, armchair
> Secrets of Origami, Robert Harbin - sofa
>
> Have fun!  Barbara





From: Carlos Alberto Furuti <furuti@AHAND.UNICAMP.BR>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 10:33:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Butterfly Ring

A butterfly ring (nice model; make it large and you have a bowtie, complete
with collar) is diagrammed in Mari Kanegae's "A Arte dos Mestres de Origami",
a new book mentioned in a recent post here.

        Sincerely,
                Carlos
        furuti@ahand.unicamp.br www.ahand.unicamp.br/~furuti





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 10:42:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Katana

Before I respond to Wayne, I should mention that Kalei's katana is very
different from Kasahara's. Have no fear of publishing it as your own! The
technique you used for forming the tsuba is very ingenious. It is, of
course, not in keeping with the actual form of the sword where the blade
and the hilt are contiguous and the tsuba is separate, but who cares? It's
a cool folding sequence. The instructions are a little unclear at points,
though. Step 7 seems unnecessary, and the diagrams in both steps 7 & 8 seem
to be out of proportion. I also could not form the tip of the blade in the
manner you describe. Sorry to be so picky...I like the model, but I thought
some clarification would help in the diagrams.

The rest of this message has nothing to do with origami, but with
swordsmithing. Ignore as desired.

At 12:07 AM 98/06/04 -0700, you wrote:
>Joseph Wu already gave a detailed description of a katana.  However, I was
>reading one of my books and thought the following info on how one is
>actually made may be of interest:
>
>A sheet of fine steel is hammered thin and then folded into itself and
>hammered together.  This process is repeated about 20 000 (not a typo!!) or
>more times to make the core of the blade.  The core was then put into a thin
>steel sheath with a V-shape cross section.  The two pieces were then
>hammered together and made as one.  It takes upwards of 3 months to make a
>quality katana.  The result is probably one of the best swords in the world
>- extremely sharp, resilient and strong. A single stroke can decapitate a
>person.  The sword is about 3 feet long and weighs about 2.5 pounds.

I would think that that is a typo. What happens is this: The metal is
folded up to 15 times. Each time the number of layers double, so that after
15 folds, you have 32768 layers (over 20000 layers). Folding 20000 times
results in a HUGE number of layers! This folded steel was much harder than
other steel and, paradoxically, also had a higher tensile strength. It was
used for the cutting edge of the blade. The rest of the blade was made with
softer steel. (A similar process was used in the west. The so-called
"Damascus steel" was formed by twisting layers of steel together to achieve
the  pressure needed to strengthen it.)

The katana (and the sabres made in Damascus) are cutting weapons. They are
hard and razor sharp, but that meant that they had their drawbacks as well.
They could cut through soft matter very easily, but the edge of the blade
was easily damaged by blows against hard objects (e.g. hard metal armour).
Notice the type of armour that they were used against: cloth, mainly, and
sometimes articulated scale armour that was laced together.

Conversely, European swords did not have a razor edge. They were heavier
and had an edge that was about 1 mm thick. Certainly sharp enough to cut
flesh if swung hard enough, but that was not the primary purpose. These
swords were used against heavier (and harder) armour. The purpose was to
create a shockwave along the line of impact that would spread into the
body. This shockwave would fracture bones and rupture internal organs. Not
a pleasant way to die.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
t:604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331   e: josephwu@ultranet.ca





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 10:53:10 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

In reply to Kathie Fano's idea of using digital photography for origami:

I recently bought a color jet printer and have similiar idea. I have
visited your homepage and saw the beautiful patterns you designed.
Before I try anything crazy, how do you print those patterns to fill to
the edges of the paper. You see I don't have a paper cutter. Secondly,
the paper for the color jet printer are rather thick (heavy) for
origami. The paper is usually (20+ lbs). I normally use memo paper for
folding. This paper is around 15 lbs (wild guess). I can't find any
paper (8.5 x 11) less than 20 lbs. Anybody have any idea? Even if there
is such paper, will the jet ink wrinkles the paper? Finally, from your
experience, will the white show through the creases.

Aaron

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From: Martin Sidgreaves <sid@PSY.PLYM.AC.UK>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 11:43:17 +0000
Subject: Butterfly Ring
Priority: normal

I have seen a few pictures of a Butteyfly Ring on the web......does
anyone know if there are any on-line instructions to create it ? If
not could anyone please point me towards a book that contains the
details ?

Thanks in advance

Martin Sidgreaves
Senior Programmer
Psychology Department
Tel: +44 (01752) 233131
Fax: +44 (01752) 233178
http://PSY.PLYM.AC.UK/staff/sid/Sid.html

"Beware of a programmer carrying a screwdriver"





From: rroos@alleg.edu
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 11:51:56 -0400
Subject:

Kathie Frano wrote:

> Besides my interest in Origami, I am also into digital photography.  I was
> playing around with Adobe Photo Shop, making some almost-abstract patterns
> using a photo of my dog, and applying various filters to the photo. I
> suddenly thought the patterns would make pretty boxes ....

Nice Web page! (Are you fans of Dinky, the Taco Bell dog?)

This reminded me of something I saw half a dozen (or more) years ago in the
premiere issue of a magazine named "Pixel" (I don't know if it is still
published; I only saw it because I received a complimentary free issue when
it started publishing). The author was looking for way to present
three-dimensional views of objects, and hit upon the idea of printing out six
views of an object (front, back, top, bottom, left, right) onto two square
pieces of paper and assembling them into a cube. The model used was something
the author called the "Hosoya Cube"; it's so simple, I can give instructions
for it here.

Start with two squares. Divide each into thirds horizontally and vertically
to get nine subsquares. Fold the four corner subsquares in half diagonally
(or cut off the corner triangle from each) to produce an octagon shape.
Here's an ASCII image (you need a fixed-width font to see this); colons and
periods are crease lines (mountain folds). The five rectangular regions are
all supposed to be squares of length 1/3 the size of the original square.
   _____
  /:   :\
 /.:...:.\
|  :   :  |
|  :   :  |  (make two; corners can be
 \.:...:./    valley folded in
  \:   :/     at 45 degrees or just cut off)
   `---'

In each of the four triangles at the corners make valley folds bisecting
them (the folds extend from the intersections of the mountain folds
perpendicularly to the bases of the four triangles).

You can now collapse the structure along the existing folds to form five
sides of a cube. The triangular areas stick "inside" the cube, out of sight
unless you look at the open end of the cube.

Take two such structures and join them; there are natural "pockets" formed
by the paper sticking inside the cube that let you alternate sides under and
over. The resulting cube is very solid and stable and requires no tape or
glue to hold its shape.

If you want to display six views of an object, print them this way:

+---+---+---+
|   |   |   |  First square:
+---+---+---+
| L | F | R |  Left, Front, Right
+---+---+---+  views, suitably
|   |   |   |  oriented
+---+---+---+

+---+---+---+ Second square:
|   | T |   |  Top,
+---+---+---+
|   | B |   |  Back,
+---+---+---+
|   | b |   |  bottom views, suitably oriented
+---+---+---+

Can anyone supply information on this "Hosoya cube"? Is it a well-known
modular construction? (Surely it is; it's so simple!) Does it go under other
names?

Bob Roos
rroos@alleg.edu





From: Kenny1414@AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 12:42:01 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Katana (NO)

In a message dated 98-06-04 06:44:20 EDT, you write:

> A sheet of fine steel is hammered thin and then folded into itself and
>  hammered together.

Isn't this also a description of the basic process for making a
Damascus Steel blade? The blade ends up with a pattern of
close ripples, due to the many thin layers showing when it is polished.

Aloha,
kenny1414@aol.com (Kenneth M. Kawamura)





From: Martin Sidgreaves <sid@PSY.PLYM.AC.UK>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 15:16:27 +0000
Subject: Butterfly Ring
Priority: normal

Sorry if this is a repeat message.

I have seen a Butterfly Ring model on several webpages. Doe's anyone
know where the folding instructions are for this model ? Are they
available on the web ?

Any help greatly appreciated

Martin Sidgreaves
Senior Programmer
Psychology Department
Tel: +44 (01752) 233131
Fax: +44 (01752) 233178
http://PSY.PLYM.AC.UK/staff/sid/Sid.html

"Beware of a programmer carrying a screwdriver"





From: "Dr. Stephen O'Hanlon" <fishgoth@DIAL.PIPEX.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:51:33 +0100
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

My favourite tool is a small guillotine/ruler combo. It allows one to cut
in a straight line. Very useful for preparing paper info foldable squares!
I also wouldnt be without some large artists brushes and a pot of water for
wetfolding, A pot of indian ink for blacking out the white side of foil
backed paper, a box of paperclips for module origami and a tube of G**e for
making display pieces of more than one unit permenent. Folks may frown, but
its almost guarenteed that as soon as you display the piece or give it to
someone, it will fall apart. (There is a name to describe this law, but Ive
been told off for using it on Origami-L before)

Yours,

Dr S.G. O'Hanlon





From: Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:53:27 +0100 (
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]

I also have a little collection of "tools".
This comprises of ...
Two tweezers: One small for fine detail work (origin forgotten) and
one large (obtained from a DIY store).  The large one is handy for
poking inside models to aid sinks, starting straight folds at odd locations
and making some fiddly folds.

A butter knife. Ideal for cutting paper to produce a straight edge.
and..
A pair of smooth-flat pliers (obtained from an art store in the jewelry
section).  I use this for squashing parts of models when they get thick

Paper clips come in handy too (bent and unbent).

--
Andrew Daw                   email:  andrewd@redac.co.uk





From: "Dr. Stephen O'Hanlon" <fishgoth@DIAL.PIPEX.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:58:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Katana

> Joseph Wu already gave a detailed description of a katana.  However, I
was
> reading one of my books and thought the following info on how one is
> actually made may be of interest:
>
> A sheet of fine steel is hammered thin and then folded into itself and
> hammered together.  This process is repeated about 20 000 (not a typo!!)
or
> more times to make the core of the blade.  The core was then put into a
thin
> steel sheath with a V-shape cross section.  The two pieces were then
> hammered together and made as one.  It takes upwards of 3 months to make
a
> quality katana.  The result is probably one of the best swords in the
world
> - extremely sharp, resilient and strong. A single stroke can decapitate a
> person.  The sword is about 3 feet long and weighs about 2.5 pounds.
>
> Wayne Ko

To add to the above, A katana is frequently used as a paired sword with a
Wakasahi, a shorter, thicker blade. Although both can be used to strike,
the art of Ni-to-kenjitsu, or paired sword fighting uses the Katana to
strike and the Wakasashi to parry and counter-strike.

A two handed version, a daikatana can be made. This terrible weapon can be
four feet long or more, and combines the weight of european swords with the
added strength of oriental blades. Due to its size, it cannot be
effectively wielded with another weapon.

Dr S.G. O'Hanlon





From: Ariel <ariel@DATAPHONE.SE>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 08:00:07 +0200
Subject: Pig by Paul Jackson

Hi !!!

        I saw the mention of a pig by Paul Jackson. Could anyone send me a
     picture
of how the finished model looks like ? I would like to learn about
techniques by comparing different approaches to folding the same animal.
Thanks.





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 11:05:26 -0700 (
Subject: Origami Heart

Does anybody know of any origami heart that is 3D and soft-edged? The
one I found is rather polygonal and flat.

AT

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From: "Matthew Sparks (05-025)" <Matthew_Sparks@USA.PINKERTONS.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 12:17:37 -0700
Subject: damascus steel

kenny1414@aol.com (Kenneth M. Kawamura) Wrote:
                Isn't this also a description of the basic process for
making a
                Damascus Steel blade?

Yes the process is similar, but Damascus steel also had a much higher
quantity of carbon in it which highlighted the layers and allowed the
steel to be extremely flexible.

I'm sorry, I missed the references for where you could find origami
sword
models,  and did anyone mention a naval saber model... you know fancy
hilt
 with finger guard, a slightly curved blade and probably some tassels
from
the hilt. Anybody know where anything like that is documented?

________________________________
        |Matthew M.   Sparks                                |
        |Senior UNIX Systems Administrator        |
        |Pinkerton                                                  |
        |15910 Ventura Blvd. Suite 900                |
        |Encino, CA 91436                         _  USA|
|Desk (818) 380-8712 Fax (818) 3808677|





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 12:39:20 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Thanks FYI. Excuse my ignorance, what's a guillotine/ruler combo. I
never use foil-backed paper. I heard of it in a lot of Robert Lang's
publications. I have seen paper-backed foil paper. (I believe the paper
is backing up the foil.) The shiny foil comes in many colors. Is it the
same thing we are talking about? Anyway, why the ink?

About the paper clips: Are we talking about the traditional paper clips?
How do you prevent scoring the paper? I use the tiny black paper binding
clips.

What's you opinion of using wire? I found it very useful in the
construction of Issei Yoshino's dino skeletons. Without the wire support
I would need to posts to support the T-Rex. With the wire, I only need I
post between the legs to support the T-Rex. In my second construction, I
am planning to do without the post support. I beleive the suppport posts
make the T-Rex looks dead and structural. (Yeah, it nothing but bones.)

AT

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From: "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 14:04:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

My favorite Origami Trick is to temporarily disconnect the hands and
brain of Robert Lang (when he is not looking of course), and force them
to finish the more devious steps of those origami insects.

It works almost every time.

B R E T T





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 14:09:29 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

I see everyone has his/her bag of tricks. I use one tweezer that have
perfectly straight edges on both sides. It close to perfectly flat and
have a fine point. It's a special tool for handling electronic
components. (Not sure where I got it from.) I will not fold an origami
without it. It is my fingers. I also use metal or plastic rulers for
folds. In wet folding, I use a hammer for packing folds and a steam iron
for creases. Other tools include wires or various awges, tiny black
paper binding clips, and tooth picks.

AT

>
>I also have a little collection of "tools".
>This comprises of ...
>Two tweezers: One small for fine detail work (origin forgotten) and
>one large (obtained from a DIY store).  The large one is handy for
>poking inside models to aid sinks, starting straight folds at odd
locations
>and making some fiddly folds.
>
>A butter knife. Ideal for cutting paper to produce a straight edge.
>and..
>A pair of smooth-flat pliers (obtained from an art store in the jewelry
>section).  I use this for squashing parts of models when they get thick
>to improve the crease (e.g. some of the insect legs in Lang's Insects
book).
>
>Paper clips come in handy too (bent and unbent).
>
>--
>Andrew Daw                   email:  andrewd@redac.co.uk
>
>

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From: Valerie Vann <valerie_vann@COMPUSERVE.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 14:28:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Dr S.G. O'Hanlon wrote:

<< a box of paperclips for module origami and a tube of G**e for
making display pieces of more than one unit permenent>>

hmmm. I can't remember when I last had to use paperclips or
anything to assemble a modular; that's part of the fun :-)
And if a modular design won't stay together (preferably
while hanging) well enough without glue, I either
re-engineer it or don't build anymore like that...

valerie





From: Basyrett@AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 15:54:19 -0400 (
Subject: Origami to the rescue

Hello
This past weekend, I was chaperoning my school district's team at the NY State
Games for the Physically Challenged.  One of our athelete's, Jessica has
cerebal palsy and uses a wheelchair.  At dinner the 1st night, Jessica asked
for a straw or a cup because she could not lift and hold her can of soda.  We
asked everyone but not a straw or a cup was in site.  Suddenly, a light came
on I ripped the cover off the Games Program and folded a traditional cup.
Jessica used the cup until the can was light enough for her to hold. She was
so excited that we were all laughing at her and the wonder of origami.   Next
thing I knew parents and students from our team were asking to learn how to
make a cup.  There are many events at the Games but this was the first origami
event in the Games history!!

Cheers
Barbara





From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:07:37 -0400
Subject: Cutting along creases... (was Re: Origami tricks and tools)

Andrew Daw wrote:

> A butter knife. Ideal for cutting paper to produce a straight edge.
> and..

Could you explain this technique?  Are you cutting along a crease line?  I find
that when I need to cut along a crease, the crease is much wider than the
knife blade, so it is hard to be accurate in staying centered.  Any tips on
this from anyone?

-D'gou

--
end
<a href="http://www.pgh.net/~dwp">Doug's Fun Page</a>





From: Doug Philips <dwp@TRANSARC.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:16:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Andrew Daw indited:

> A pair of smooth-flat pliers (obtained from an art store in the jewelry
> section).  I use this for squashing parts of models when they get thick
> to improve the crease (e.g. some of the insect legs in Lang's Insects book).

A friend (also on this list) has a cool pair of curved needle nosed flat bladed
pliers, makes it much easier to "set" those small folds, as well as a set of
clamping pliers (vise grips is a trade mark) that have flat plates instead of
corrogated jaws...

> Paper clips come in handy too (bent and unbent).

A trick I learned from Michael Naughton (I don't know if he still reads this
list or if he is Naught-on it any more), is to use wooden doll house
clothespins (they are small and usually smooth on the gripping surface) for
securing wet folded models, the springs are effective, but not too agressive.

Probably my all time favorite tool is something that I got from Michael Verry
at one of the conventions, its a plastic electronics tool, blunted tip at one
end, flat blade (like a flat blade screw driver) on the other.

Standing on the shoulders, or at least weilding the tools of, giants,
                -D'gou

--
end
<a href="http://www.pgh.net/~dwp">Doug's Fun Page</a>





From: David Steere <dsteere@SIL.SI.EDU>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 16:16:18 -0400
Subject: Two Questions

Hi,  I'm new to the Origami-l mailing list.  I just joined, so I don't know if
     the following
two questions have been asked and answered elsewhere.

1)  I just received as a gift Issei's wonderful SUPERCOMPLEX ORIGAMI.  However,
     I
can't find any indication of the paper sizes to be used for the motorcycle
     models and
especially for the modular dinosaur skeleton.  I can't imagine the pieces
     making up
the skeleton all are folded from the same size sheet of paper.  But, I may be
     wrong.
A Japanese friend looked over the book and couldn't find any paper size
indications--at least from a quick examination.   Do any of you know?

2).  The beautiful Lang Moose model appearing in the Gallery--do folding
     instructions
exist for this?

Thanks for your help.

david.

_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
     _/
_/     David T. Steere, Jr./Senior Reference Librarian                _/
_/     National Museum of Natural History Branch Library          _/
_/     10th & Constitution Ave., NW
     _/
_/      Washington DC  20560
     _/
_/      phone: 202-357-4696
     _/
_/      fax: 202-357-1896
     _/
_/      email: dsteere@sil.si.edu





From: Jeff Kerwood <jkerwood@USAOR.NET>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 17:15:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

Heres my list of tools and gadgets.

++++++++++++++++++

Small curved needle nosed pliers (for smashing bulky folds in tight places
near edge of model)

Dental tool with curved ends with small "egg" shaped ends (for opening up
deep pockets and can be used for embossing too)

Flat clayers tool with one flat squarish end and one flat rounded end (for
working in places where the paper can't be opened)

Dental tool with flat spatula shaped end (helps when the thick end of a
fold won't come to a point)

Credit card (makes a good crease but doesn't mar the paper near the crease
(as fingernails or stones or bones sometimes do)

Revlon cuticle pusher backer / cutter {not a cuticle trimmer} (general
getting into deep places and for getting clean ends on a crease that does
not go edge to edge)

Bent handled icing spatulas - large and small (used in place of a ruler,
the weight of the handle lifts the straight-edge of the spatula off the
paper when you let it go freeing the paper underneath for you to move (hard
to explain but if you try one I think you'll see what I'm saying)

Small artists paint brush (helps re-moisten internal places while wet
folding or for after-its-dry-folded spot wetting to ~fix~ splaying dry
folded models)

Golf tee (for gentle snub-tipped embossing and getting into wetfolded
models to help shape them)

Jewelers burnisher (another way to smash thick folds)

Vise Grip with box shaped clamp arms (if you look at this from the side the
clamp arms form a box allowing you to smash big folds that are not at the
edge of the model)

McDonalds coffee stirrer (good for a gentle touch deep in a model, like
when you want to push a side out but don't want to leave a mark as a sharp
or pointed tool might)

Artists blending stumps (for reaching into a model or for creating curls
(having several sizes comes in handy))

Miniature (doll house size) clothes pins (shown to me by Doug Philips -
much better than paper-clips or hair-pins for helping with modulars)

++++++++++++++++++

Well that's my list.  I know I learned of some of these from this email
group but sorry and can't remember which ones or who mentioned them.

Bye, Jeff Kerwood





From: Rick Bissell <rickbissell@NCWEB.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 20:02:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Butterfly Ring

At 03:16 PM 6/4/98 +0000, you wrote:
>
>I have seen a Butterfly Ring model on several webpages. Doe's anyone
>know where the folding instructions are for this model ? Are they
>available on the web ?

There is a butterfly ring by Saburo Kase (who is a blind Japanese
paperfolder) in Paul Jackson's book "The Complete Origami Course"  It is a
delightful model.

Rick Bissell





From: V'Ann Cornelius <vann@LHT.COM>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 21:56:05 -0700
Subject: Working Clock?

[ported by V'Ann]

Ellen Edersheim wrote:

  looking for a paper clock - that really works - made out of colored
  paper - looking for pattern - do you know where could find it
  Thanks

  ellen@cyberportal.net





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 22:01:46 +0200
Subject:

>From: "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
>Subject:      Re: YYEEEEEEEAAHHHHHH
>To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>Congrats,
>
>And welcome.
>Looks like lotsa people have been waiting for you.
>
>B R E T T
_______________________________________________________Other one__

>From: DLister891@AOL.COM
>Subject:      Re: YYEEEEEEEAAHHHHHH
>To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>Welcome, at last, to Peter Budai!  What a strange society we live in where we
>communicate daily and almost instantly with people all over the world and ye
>one letter - not even a letter, but only an accent above a letter  - can throw
>the whole elaborate edifice out of gear!
>
>Anyway, Peter, now you're here we expect great contributions from you. I hope
>you will enjoy being with us - I'm sure you will.
>
>David Lister.
>
>DLister891@AOL.com

Thanks. I'll try to do the most, though I'm busy at the moment. First of all
I hope I will get used to working with the list soon, then we'll see. Yet
sometimes I don't know what's the talk about, but with time I hope to be
up-to-date with everything.

Peter Budai





From: Peter Budai <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 22:01:50 +0200
Subject: Re: NO: Undeliverable

At 07:26 PM 6/3/98 +1500, you wrote:
>> Date:    Wed, 3 Jun 1998 13:11:55 -0500
>> From:    "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
>> Subject: Re: NO: Undeliverable
>>
>> I noticed a lot of ROUTER outages on the net yesterday.  I received also
>> some undeliverable that were actually delivered.  Lots of lagtime
>> between here (St. Louis) and California.
>
>I expect most of these can be tracked to all the power outages due to
>bad storms and tornados. Expect net behavior will improve soon.
>Well...maybe not.
>
>pat slider.
>slider@stonecutter.com
>slider@stonecutter.com
>stonecutter design
>5320 Hwy 49N #2
>mariposa, Ca 95338
>
>

Well, I'm not established about the list yet but I think you speak about
something like this (I got the following one after sending my first emial to
the list but from the replies I know that it WAS delivered):

>Return-Path: <>
>From: System Administrator <postmaster@Nuesoft.com>
>To: <peterbud@MAIL.DATATRANS.HU>
>Subject: Undeliverable: YYEEEEEEEAAHHHHHH
>Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 16:11:35 -0400
>
>
>Your message did not reach some or all of the intended recipients.
>
>      To:      ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>      Subject: YYEEEEEEEAAHHHHHH
>      Sent:    6/3/98 16:11:35 PM
>
>The following recipient(s) could not be reached:
>
>      ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU on 6/3/98 16:11:35 PM
>            Recipient Not Found
>            MSEXCH:IMC:Nuesoft:Atlanta HQ:JOSH

But this is no problem as long as the messages go through.

Peter Budai





From: Sebastian Marius Kirsch <skirsch@T-ONLINE.DE>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 22:31:21 +0200
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

On Thu, 4 Jun 1998, Robert Roos wrote:
> Can anyone supply information on this "Hosoya cube"? Is it a well-known
> modular construction?

The Hosoya Cube is also published in _Origami_for_the_Connoisseur_ by
Kunihiko Kasahara and Toshie Takahama.

Kasahara writes:
---
Whereas the Fujimoto cube represents a superb folding order, the Hosoya
cube is a superlative idea. Both Haruo Hosoya, who teaches at the
Ochanomizu Women's College, and Shuzo Fujimoto employ origami in the
classroom to explain molecular and crystal structures.
---

Yours, Sebastian                                       skirsch@t-online.de
                        /or/ sebastian_kirsch@kl.maus.de (no mail > 16KB!)





From: Edith Kort <ekort@MCLS.ROCHESTER.LIB.NY.US>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 23:27:40 -0400
Subject: Paper for Boxes

I regularly make my boxes from 20 - 24 weight paper.  It makes a
sturdier box than kami weight and works well for the box design she
chose.  It works well for the triangle boxes, too.  The only draw-back
is with the boxes with the more intracate tops, at least when working
with 4" squares.   I have even made the boxes from wall paper samples of
varying weights.  The advantage of samples is that they don't have g***
on the back.

--
  Edith M. Kort
  Penfield NY





From: Ginette <boyer@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 23:35:51 -0400
Subject: Re: YYEEEEEEEAAHHHHHH

> Wow! This was tricky. But finally I could get onto the mailing list.

I'm glad you made it.  So I can tell you now how much fun I had with a book
of yours.  I was impressed by a box with two cranes...

> For those who are interested, it was one single letter, the "" to name.

Being french speaking, I know the feeling...  We bear a lot of accents in
our writing.  You MUST try chatting with your accents: misunderstanding is
such an experience! ;-)

                          ___________________
                    |                 |
                    |                 |
                    |                 |
                    |      }---{      |
                    |      |0 ,0      |
                    |     /'\   \     |
                    |    |'''|  |     |
                    |    |'  /  /     |
                    |____|  /_ /______|
    Jean Villemaire     |/-/"-"-|       Le harfang des neiges,
   Montral, QUBEC     |       |       emblme aviaire
                                |_______|       du Qubec

              mailto:villemaire@videotron.ca
                   Origami-Montral :
 http://econo1.ecn.ulaval.ca:80/~pgon/origami/origami.html
     10555, ave. du Sacr-Coeur, Montral, QUBEC, H2C 2T1
                  Tl.: (514)382-5020





From: Rjlang@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 00:28:29 -0400 (
Subject: Re: Katana (NO)

> A sheet of fine steel is hammered thin and then folded into itself
> and hammered together. This process is repeated about 20,000 (not a
> typo!!) or more times...It takes upwards of 3 months to make a
> quality katana.

Maybe not a typo, but a mistranscription, since 20,000 foldings would give
about 10^6000 layers, as compared to the roughly 10^7 atomic layers in a 2 mm
thick blade.

More likely, the original text said there were about 20,000 layers, which is
accomplished with only 14 doublings.

Picky, picky, picky...

Robert





From: Rjlang@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 00:28:33 -0400 (
Subject: A dollar-bill-fold puzzle

I was playing around with folding geometric shapes from single dollar bills
and a couple of questions occurred to me, which seemed interesting enough that
I thought I'd throw them out to the list as a puzzle:

1. What is the largest cube that can be completely wrapped by a single dollar
bill with the only visible seams (raw or folded edges) along the edges of the
cube?

2. If you allow seams to cross a face, how big can the cube be?

For purposes of simplicity, we'll assume that the dollar bill is exactly 3
units wide and 7 units long; the size of the cube should be expressed in the
same units.

Robert J. Lang
rjlang@aol.com





From: DORIGAMI@AOL.COM
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 08:31:55 -0400 (
Subject: Re: suitable for mailing

Rick, have you thought about using any of the money folds using ordinary paper
and cutting it to bill proportions.  Also using fake money which OUSA sells.
Just go through your books and look for flat models which work well for
greeting cards too. Rick likes to include models in his letters and has been
using money folds.  He would like not to use money all of the time.  Dorigami





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 09:53:13 -0700 (
Subject: Super Complex Origami

Hello David,

I have just finished Yoshino's T-Rex (not in SuperComplex) and
Triceratops sometimes ago. I can asure you that you are correct on using
the same size square papers. I beleive that hold true if not all, but
most of Yoshino's designs. That's the beauty of it.

Let me know if you get to the wild boar.

AT

>1)  I just received as a gift Issei's wonderful SUPERCOMPLEX ORIGAMI.
However, I
>can't find any indication of the paper sizes to be used for the
motorcycle models and
>especially for the modular dinosaur skeleton.  I can't imagine the
pieces making up
>the skeleton all are folded from the same size sheet of paper.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Sheldon Ackerman <ackerman@DORSAI.ORG>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 12:14:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Origami Heart

>
> Does anybody know of any origami heart that is 3D and soft-edged? The
> one I found is rather polygonal and flat.
>
>
Don't know about it being soft edged but it certainly is 3 dimensional and a
great model. It even has Cupid's arrow running right through it!
If I recall correctly, it is a Lang model.

--
---
Sheldon Ackerman.......http://www.dorsai.org/~ackerman/
ackerman@dorsai.org
sheldon_ackerman@fc1.nycenet.edu





From: John Marcolina <jmarcoli@CISCO.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:01:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Two Questions

At 04:16 PM 6/4/98 -0400, David T. Steere wrote:
<snip>
>1)  I just received as a gift Issei's wonderful SUPERCOMPLEX ORIGAMI.
However, I
>can't find any indication of the paper sizes to be used for the motorcycle
models and
>especially for the modular dinosaur skeleton.  I can't imagine the pieces
making up
>the skeleton all are folded from the same size sheet of paper.

I can't speak for the motorcycles, but the Triceratops skeleton is in fact
folded from equal-size sqares.

John Marcolina
San Jose, CA.
jmarcoli@cisco.com





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:35:13 -0700 (
Subject: Re: favorite models

I am glad someone mentioned Eric Joisel. I am very impressed by his work
of art. Unfortunately, I could not find and book written by him.
I was told that he has never written any book. I would really appreciate
if you could please email me diagrams of some of his works?
The turtle, the rooster, the ground hogs, the rats, and etc. Anything
would be greatly appreciate.

AT
aaron_tu@hotmail.com

>My favorite models are :
>*J. Montroll's first lobster (together with the crab : they are
>pretty much alike.)
>*E. Joisel's rat. (I may say that because I learned it a few days
>ago. But I really think it is great.)
>*M. Lafosse's 'Happy good luck bat'
>These are  models I really like, but I would have given other ones
>another day.
>Hope this helps you in your survey.
>
>Pierre Hyvernat
>phyvernat@cipcinsa.insa-lon.fr
>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Joseph Wu <josephwu@ULTRANET.CA>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:42:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Origami Heart

At 12:14 PM 98/06/05 -0400, you wrote:
>Don't know about it being soft edged but it certainly is 3 dimensional and a
>great model. It even has Cupid's arrow running right through it!
>If I recall correctly, it is a Lang model.

That would be Peter Engel's "Valentine". For a simpler 3D heart model, try
Gay Merrill Gross's "Heart Locket".
----------------------------------------------------------------
Joseph Wu, Origami Artist and Multimedia Producer
t:604.730.0306 x 105   f: 604.732.7331   e: josephwu@ultranet.ca





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:45:01 -1000
Subject: Re: Origami tricks and tools

I find dental tools available at Longs drug store very handy.  One tool
is just a point that is angled- good for pushing in tiny sinks and the
other is a great tool for applying glue for jewelry in tiny spaces- a
spatula type edge.        Aloha, Jan





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:48:44 -1000
Subject: Re: Paper for Boxes

Edith Kort wrote:
>
> I regularly make my boxes from 20 - 24 weight paper.  It makes a
> sturdier box than kami weight and works well for the box design she
> chose.  It works well for the triangle boxes, too.  The only draw-back
> is with the boxes with the more intracate tops, at least when working
> with 4" squares.   I have even made the boxes from wall paper samples of
> varying weights.  The advantage of samples is that they don't have g***
> on the back.
>
> --
>   Edith M. Kort
>   Penfield NY
A friend of mine uses heavy stationary that has border designs.  The
designs come out in delightful patterns.    Jan
--
<http://www.gotomymall.com/hawaii/origami/>
Origami by Jan website...the Fodor folder





From: Paul & Jan Fodor <origami@ALOHA.NET>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:56:19 -1000
Subject: Re: Origami Heart

A 3d heart called the "heart locket" is also in Gay Merrill Gross' book,
The Art of Origami.   Jan





From: "Askinazi, Brett" <brett@HAGERHINGE.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:58:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box

I have experience with folding printed paper here is what I have found;

I have used HP desk 6xx series and 7xx series, (use the same ink).

About paper sizes to print.
If you choose an image that is say 240x240 pixels the image will print
square on a piece of paper (if your printing program does not distort
the image) so that you can easily cut it out with a straight edge and
exacto knife.  So choose images (or resize them) to be the same number
of pixels vertically as horizontally.  I use LVIEW (windows based and
shareware) to print the images.

About bonds and wrinkling.
I have folded plain copier paper (20lb bond) and found the folding
depends on the models somewhat.  So far I have not used this paper to
fold anything really complex but I have folded a few Kawahata Dino's.
Yes the paper does wrinkle from getting wet but I haven't found this to
be a problem.

Also, there is a benefit from the Inkjet type printers because they DO
wet the paper.  If you fold the paper while the ink is still wet, it is
very similar to Wet Folding techniques and the model holds shape very
well.  The only drawback is that the ink is smeared.  I haven't found
this to be a problem because I used muted and mottled pictures on the
paper rather than a specific pattern (it makes for a model that is more
natural looking than solid color and less brassy than a kooky pattern).
So my basic Idea with the coloring of the paper is subtle color
gradations.

White showing through the creases.
Only if you save the printed paper for a VERY VERY long time, the ink
may crack and flake off.  And of course the white side of the paper may
show if the model is predisposed to show white on certain parts or for a
color change.

For examples of some of the models I have folded with printed paper go
to

www.i1.net/brett/origami.animals.html

Main page www.i1.net/brett

Check the Kawahata Dinos. it tells the types of paper used to fold each
model.

B R E T T

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Aaron Tu [mailto:aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM]
> Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 12:53 PM
> To: ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: Idea for a personalized gift box
>
>
> In reply to Kathie Fano's idea of using digital photography
> for origami:
>
> I recently bought a color jet printer and have similiar idea. I have
> visited your homepage and saw the beautiful patterns you designed.
> Before I try anything crazy, how do you print those patterns
> to fill to
> the edges of the paper. You see I don't have a paper cutter. Secondly,
> the paper for the color jet printer are rather thick (heavy) for
> origami. The paper is usually (20+ lbs). I normally use memo paper for
> folding. This paper is around 15 lbs (wild guess). I can't find any
> paper (8.5 x 11) less than 20 lbs. Anybody have any idea?
> Even if there
> is such paper, will the jet ink wrinkles the paper? Finally, from your
> experience, will the white show through the creases.
>
> Aaron
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Pierre Hyvernat <Pierre.Hyvernat@CIPCINSA.INSA-LYON.FR>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 14:16:23 +0100 (
Subject: favorite models
Priority: normal

My favorite models are :
*J. Montroll's first lobster (together with the crab : they are
pretty much alike.)
*E. Joisel's rat. (I may say that because I learned it a few days
ago. But I really think it is great.)
*M. Lafosse's 'Happy good luck bat'
These are  models I really like, but I would have given other ones
another day.
Hope this helps you in your survey.

Pierre Hyvernat
phyvernat@cipcinsa.insa-lon.fr





From: Pierre Hyvernat <Pierre.Hyvernat@CIPCINSA.INSA-LYON.FR>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 14:28:45 +0100 (
Subject: chess board, Montroll's last book
Priority: normal

Hi!!
I saw, searching the archives, that there was a one square
'seamless' chess board model. I really enjoyed J.Montroll's one, so
I'd like to try that one. Could any of you give me information on
where I coud find it.

One other question :
is there a bee in J. Montroll last book?
I am asking because I folded one from a draft version of the book
last year in DC, and I would really like to have the it, and I don't
want to try to reverse engineer mine. I know there are a few good
models, but most of them are not too chalenging (?). So I don't want
to buy it unless I am sure bout the bee.

Thank you.

Pierre Hyvernat
phyvernat@cipcinsa.insa-lyon.fr





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 14:30:48 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Cutting along creases... (was Re: Origami tricks and tools)

I prefer to use kitchen knives. The wider the body the better. It
stabilizes the cutting action or movement. The cut is nice and clean and
create no fringes.

AT

>
>> > A butter knife. Ideal for cutting paper to produce a straight edge.
>> > and..
>>
>> Could you explain this technique?  Are you cutting along a crease
line?  I find
>
>Hmmm, hard to describe without diagrams, but here goes ...
>
>Fold over the paper where you want the cut and place the paper on a
flat surface
>(a table top is ideal).  While keeping the paper folded, put the knife
between
>the folds at about 45 degrees to the crease and pull the knife along
and
>towards yourself.  Holding the paper as flat as possible helps keep the
>knife following the fold.
>
>A craft knife is too sharp for this and produces a poor cut. This is
more
>like a controlled tear I suppose.  I always used to use this method for
>cutting wrapping paper at Christmas and it sort of stuck.
>
>A palette knife works just as well.
>--
>andrewd@redac.co.uk
>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Aaron Tu <aaron_tu@HOTMAIL.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 14:36:29 -0700 (
Subject: Re: Foil backed paper.

There's on drawback. Some models reveal both sides of the paper.
Sometimes it is not desirable to have the other side showing up shiny.
For that purpose, is there such thing as non-shiny foil-backed paper?

AT

>Date:         Fri, 5 Jun 1998 17:58:34 BST
>Reply-To:     Origami List <ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>From:         Andrew Daw <andrewd@REDAC.CO.UK>
>Subject:      Foil backed paper.
>To:           ORIGAMI@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>
>There is an easy way to make this.
>Buy some paper backed foil and turn it over. Hey-presto Foil backed
paper !
>
>Seriously...
>  I find that using acrylic paints are good for colouring the paper
side
>  of foil paper.  I bought some paints a while ago but found it dried
too
>  quick for the fine detailed pictures I paint, so they were put in a
drawer
>  and forgotten about, until recently.
>
>  Now I have the equivalent of duo-colour foil/matt paper, with a
choice of
>  almost any colour I like for the matt side. Within my colour mixing
>  skills at least ;-)
>--
>andrewd@redac.co.uk
>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com





From: Marc Kirschenbaum <contract@PIPELINE.COM>
Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 14:47:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Two Questions

At 04:16 PM 6/4/98 -0400, David Steere <dsteere@SIL.SI.EDU> wrote:
>Hi,  I'm new to the Origami-l mailing list.

Welcome to the list.

>1)  I just received as a gift Issei's wonderful SUPERCOMPLEX ORIGAMI.
However, > I can't find any indication of the paper sizes to be used for
the motorcycle models and
>especially for the modular dinosaur skeleton.  I can't imagine the pieces
making up
>the skeleton all are folded from the same size sheet of paper.  But, I may
be wrong.

There are no special ratios for constructing each of the pieces; just use
the same sized sheets.

>2).  The beautiful Lang Moose model appearing in the Gallery--do folding
instructions exist for this?

Everyone has been bugging Robert Lang on this one for years. I would hope
it will eventually get published.

Marc
