




Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 21:05:55 -0300
From: "Lisa, Hodsdon" <LISAHAB@vax3.hmco.com>
Subject: Art & Math

Well, having spent the first half hour of work catching up on all
the weekend mail, I'll try to post this message again --- my mail
server seems to have also taken a long week-end for the 4th. It
delivered all your mail to me, but not my mail to you...

I've been enjoying reading the reviews of folding in New York. It
sounds like you all had fun in New York. Thought you might be
interested in hearing a little bit about the competition...

I spent Saturday through Wednesday looking at beautiful artworks with
a mathematical slant. The first artist to show her work (Elizabeth
Whiteley) uses 1 by sqrt(2) rectangles as a basis. She follows a set
of rules for drawing diagonal and horizontal/vertical lines through
the rectangle. (standard stuff so far) Then... she uses these lines as
fold lines. Made me want to run out and make a bunch of root rectangles!

There were lots of people working on minimal surfaces. They get
lovely curving surfaces that are unusual in origami (paper is planar,
after all). It was interesting to see one person working in wood,
another working in metal, and a third working in computer images
all discovering they were doing the same thing!

Another artist, Margit Echols, struggles with the same sort of issue
of "how do I create that out of my material" that seems to be so much
a part of origami creations, though as a quilter, she works in fabric.

THere were many people who are interested in building polyhedra --
although many of them were unfamiliar (or just becoming familiar)
with paperfolding as a way to create them. I taught the butterfly
bomb/ball to several of them.

I can sympathize with the complaints about too little sleep. I feel
like I have taken part in a non-stop 5 day conversation, often
punctuated by folding paper and playing with soap bubbles and
building polyhedra out of anything at hand, but hardly with any time
left over for sleep...

I believe that there are many people who attend one or the other of
these two events that would enjoy meeting each other. I gave the
mailing list address out to anyone who was interested, so a few may
show up here on the list.

Has OrigamiUSA set next year's date yet??? AM96 will start June 22
so mark your calendars if you're interested!

Lisa (New York next year--I promise!) Hodsdon





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 21:16:52 -0300
From: Jay@garter.dhr.com
Subject: Folding Bones etc.

It wasn't until I displayed my miniatures at the '94 convention that I
discovered that the use of tools is actually frowned upon by some (many it
seems) folders.  I've always used tools in folding my miniatures though I
generally don't need tools on regular size models.  As for creasing I've always
used the back of my thumb nail (in one solid sweep) to sharpen creases.  I've
never found a case where this didn't work though I think I once used the handle
of a pair of sewing scissors when working on a very larger "Frost Dragon"  I
once tried a bone folder for the same purpose and found it extremely awkward.
When folding very small  miniatures I must use tweezers, not only because some
of the detail work is so much smaller than my "Huge" pinkys (I have small
hands) but I also have a tremor in my hands (they always shake a little) and
when working with some models I would crush them if I were to try to hold them
in my hands.  For example my "Reses Demon" (Jun Meakawa's demon folded from a
Reses penutbutter cup miniature wrapper) and my "house fly" (a 3/8" version of
Lang's horesefly) are so fragile with little legs and wings that I wont even
try to pick them up without tweezers.  I do manage to accomplish quite a lot
w/out using the tools however.  And in fact, I have very bad astigmatism
(double images) and still manage to fold all my work without my glasses.  It is
mostly "tactile" feelings that guide you as you go.  It's fascinating how much
you can do without really looking at the model.  Try it some time, fold a crane
with your eyes closed.  If you are an experienced folder you will be suprised
how easy it is.

Sorry, I'll get off my soap box now.

As for tools I use two pairs of tweezers which are produced by X-Acto and can
probably be obtained from any hobby or hardware store for a couple of bucks.
Both pairs are approximately 4" long, very tapered and come to a sharp point,
which necessitates care when using them because it is very easy to pierce the
paper.  One pair is the standard type, when you squueze it it closes when you
release it opens, but it has a sliding "Nut" that is designed to lock the
tweezers closed it you want.  This allows you to not only lock the tweezers bu
to adjust how much the tweezers open when you release them.  This is invaluable
and I often lock the tweezers at 1/8" or 1/16" of an inch for much of the work.
 It makes the tool feel much more natural as an extension of your hand.  The
other pair of twwezers is the opposet.  When you squueze them they open and
when you release they close.  I yse these in the final stages of the models
when I can no longer hold it without crusing and also when I'm showing
miniatures to people 'cause I can pick it up with the tweezers and just pass
the tweezers around.  As long as they don't squeeze the model is fine.  My
other tool is a paperclip, which I straighten out one end and squuze shut the
other.  This gives me a long thin "Pointer" which can be unsed with sinks and a
soft curved side which can be used for burnishing.

For me the basic rule is -- "If it feels good, do it!"

J.C. Nolan <jay@dhr.com>
"When people run around and around in circles we say they
are crazy. When planets do it we say they are orbiting."





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 21:28:07 -0300
From: A004773%LBVM1.profs@lbgwy.mdc.com
Subject: problems

 I downloaded a copy of the F-102 PS file but I can't get it to print
 properly.  Is there something unusual about the file, like printer-
 specific stuff?

 Meanwhile, could someone who has successfully printed the file please
 send me a copy either via US Mail or FAX?

 thanks in advance...
 FAX:  (310) 988-4016
 or mail:
       John Andrisan
        2743 East Hoover Ave.
        Orange CA 92667

 John Andrisan
 IBMMAIL: USMCDQND   Internet: a004773%lbvm1.profs@lbgwy.mdc.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 21:39:07 -0300
From: a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com
Subject: Origami Bones, etc.

I would like to watch Marc Kirchenbaum "folding when [he] happens to be
playing [his] guitar."  I think he could sell tickets for that performance!
Marc, will you be demonstrating at the next OUSA convention? (Almost a year
to wait ... sigh ...)

Tongue firmly in cheek,
 Anne





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:31:24 -0300
From: Mark.Kantrowitz@GLINDA.OZ.CS.CMU.EDU
Subject: Re: Folding Bones, etc.

I sometimes use tools, and I sometimes do not. Likewise I sometimes
fold in the air Japanese style, and sometimes against a surface. I
mainly use tools when trying to fold a model out of small sized paper,
such as Montroll's frog (the one with the bulging eyes) out of 3-inch
paper.

[On a related note, I wish all Origami books would indicate the
prefered paper size. I've become convinced that many models with
accompanying photographs are either wet-folded (something I refuse to
do) or folded out of very large paper.]

The tools I use are as follows:

   +  Straight-edge and exacto knife. Some 10- and 6-inch paper is not
      perfectly square, so I use the straight-edge and knife to square it
      off before folding. I may also use the blade of the exacto knife to
      lift up a layer of paper so that I can grab it, but I usually
      use tweezers instead.

   +  Tooth-pick, unbent paper clip, Q-tip w/out the fuzz, or a bobby pin.
      To round out eyes and mouths. I don't use them to help with
      sinks, prefering to partially unfold a model to start the sink.

   +  Lucite roller. To flatten foil paper, removing wrinkles and making
      folds crisper.

   +  Sharpie marker. Some paper isn't very well inked (color comes
      off on fingers during folding), so I touch up some spots on
      models that involve 100+ folds.

   +  Glue. Normally I don't glue my models, but if a multi-part model
      is going to be subject to handling, I'll use a drop of glue to
      keep it from falling apart. Also, I'll use glue to fix a bunch
      of models in a particular arrangement, as I did in my penguin rookery.

   +  Heavy books. Sometimes a model partially unfolds, or the creases
      become round. Sticking the model under a heavy book for a few
      days fixes the problem for several months.

When folding some models out of really small paper, I prefer
simplifying the model to using tools. For example, when I fold
Montroll's Robin out of three-inch paper, I skip the beak and
shoulders, and use an outside reverse-fold instead of a double rabbit
ear for the legs. Makes them look like baby birds, anyway. (When I
fold the Robin out of larger paper, I use a combination of a double
rabbit ear with an outside reverse fold for the legs. I find it
reduces the tendency of the legs to spread, and allows the bird to
stand up without having to spread the tail or adjust the wings.)

Mark Kantrowitz
mkant@cs.cmu.edu





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:42:48 -0300
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: >>Re: P.D. Tuyen's "Classic Origami"

>>quantity is not quality<<

No argument there, but it depend what you mean by "quality": If you mean
complexity, realism, and sculptural effects, of course these don't qualify.
What I meant was that here are 26 non-trivial, quite well diagrammed models,
with some satisfying and entertaining folding maneuvers, of sufficient
complexity to invite modification and variation.

While I don't care for his 4 legged critters at all (horse, camel etc), I don't
have a problem with the "geometric" look of his models. This is not Montroll or
Lang et al, but I think he's coming at it from a different perspective. For
instance, almost all of his models go flat & could be inclosed in a letter or
card, unlike the 3D, wet folded or foil-backed, nearly paper-mache, paper
sculptures the aforementioned masters are doing. I admire those too
(enormously), but Tuyen is doing something else I think.

One thing I found interesting about his diagrams - if they actually reflect the
way he folds, and I suspect they do - is that many folds are made in a single
"on the fly" operation (without pre-creases), apparently "in hand" rather than
as a series of folds made on a flat surface. It makes me think of the little boy
watching grandfather produce a paper toy miraculously with only his hands for
tools.

I think sometimes "geometric" models, ie ones that reflect the crease-and-plane
properties of paper, (as distiguished from the mold-and-stretch properties) have
a certain charm of their own. But then I'm a geometry/modular origami nut.... I
love paper as paper, with all its native properties, and think geometric models
from plain white paper, with light playing on the various planes can be truely
beautiful...

By the way, the pink flower based on his Form X (the one not diagrammed) makes a
nifty tessellation-multi-shaded-layers object if made out of translucent paper
like wax-paper or the Italian waxy paper (whatsit? the term escapes me at the
moment.)

--valerie
Compuserve: Valerie Vann 75070,304
Internet: 75070.304@compuserve.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:54:12 -0300
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Origami Bones, etc.

<< the back of a fingernail works
very well (and it's a renewable resource!).>>

.actually, I believe 'folders' (the tools that is :-)
are mostly made of cow bones, which are renewable and
as long as the USA has "beef for dinner" there will be lots.

Yikes, hope this doesn't turn off any vegetatarian folders (the
people that is ;-)  !   The real stuf (bone) is better than plastic:
stronger and usually less damaging to paper...

--valerie
Compuserve: Valerie Vann 75070,304
Internet: 75070.304@compuserve.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 00:05:17 -0300
From: LEMIEUXJ@aspen.uml.edu
Subject: problems

 >  I downloaded a copy of the F-102 PS file but I can't get it to print
 >  properly.  Is there something unusual about the file, like printer-

  An alternate solution might be to download a copy of Adobe's
Acrobat* Reader 2.0 which enables you to view and print pdf files.

  Then download the pdf version of the f-102 from the following
location.

    http://www.usis.com:80/~barber/origami/f-102.pdf

  If this fails let me know and I will get, print, and send you the copy.

  There are many other pdf models at the above location.

Good luck

Bob
J. Robert A. Lemieux
lemieuxj@woods.uml.edu





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 00:17:00 -0300
From: chall@scsn.net (Carol Hall)
Subject: Re: Origami bones, etc.

While I usually use only fingers against clip board to fold (and the
occasional improvised pointy thing when sinks and squashes won't cooperate),
I found out the hard way that tools can be oh so useful.

I fold Toshie's Jewels (office paper, 3 inch) by the gross for the stray cat
rescue organizations to use as disposable kitty toys (no cross
contamination). After one long session I noticed that not only did my thumb
hurt, I had actually worn an indention into the back of my nail.  Now when I
embark on production sessions, a bone folder is always there.

I've also found that tools can sometimes be useful when teaching children.
It depends on the age and dexterity, of course, but children often don't
have any fingernails to speak of.  They also sometimes fail to comprehend
the difference between using the back of the nail and the edge - and end up
tearing their paper. I keep a small supply of pennies in my teaching box for
them to use as creasing tools.  Pennies are a good size, have smooth edges,
and are worth so little that when I lose 10% of them to the smart alecks, it
is no great loss.

Here is another aspect to the tool question: Yoshizawa (among others) uses
T-squares and other drafting tools to prepare his paper.  Do the no-tool
purists shun that type of paper prep as well?

Carol Hall





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 00:28:31 -0300
From: LEMIEUXJ@aspen.uml.edu
Subject: RE: Origami Bones, etc.

 > I would like to watch Marc Kirchenbaum "folding when [he] happens to be
 > playing [his] guitar."  I think he could sell tickets for that performance!
 > Marc, will you be demonstrating at the next OUSA convention? (Almost a year
 > to wait ... sigh ...)

  It would be worth wating a year, Anne, if we could team Marc Kirchenbaum with
Fiddlin One-Armed Pete Tinker... Now that would be a sight.

 > Group: rec.music.country.old-time, Item 3101
 > Subject: Re: Fiddlin One-Armed Pete Tinker
 > From: Martin Jara <mljara@lbl.gov>, LBL
 > Date: 23 Jun 95 16:09:02 -0500

Bob
J. Robert A. Lemieux
lemieuxj@Woods.uml.edu





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 01:10:08 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: wet-folders of the Web unite!

On Wed, 5 Jul 1995 Nick Robinson <nick@tritec.demon.co.uk> said:

>Hi there,
>
>> < "As for wet folding, only a person who has nothing better to do
>> would sit for hours until his model dried. I  for  one would much
>> rather use tools" >
>

Thank you for not attributing my name to this out of context remark. I
really feel misunderstood today. What I intended to convey was that tools
are necessary for wet folding. Even without tools, it would probably be
difficult to whip out a piece of paper at a party and start wet folding.

>Ah, but look at the result - a fold full of grace and life - try that with

>foil!! Once I've finished the shaping (the real fun part!) I hold the
paper in
>position with a few well-placed beer cans, CD's, dead beetles etc. so it
will
>dry of its own accord. Sitting on top of the computer monitor seems to
speed
>things up, providing the paper isn't driping! (It should never be that wet

>anyway).
>

Actually, my favorite compliment that I get from my exhibitions is the
assumption that my models are wet folded. It is definately what I aspire
to. I choose to use foil based papers, as I have a much greater level of
control. As I am getting better at mimicking the wet folded look, my
comprimises are diminishing.

>I don't see how tools replace the finesse allowed by wet-folding? It's
about
>natural curves and the texture of the paper, not making teeny points. Some

>subjects (most insects for example!) are simply not suited to WF. Others
(such
>as Hulme's Jack in the Box or even the humble falpper) aren't suited to
foil. I
>would contend contentiously(?) that most animals are not suited to foil.
When I
>see these Zebras with metallic foil showing through it nearly makes me
cry.

I agree. When I use American Foil for practice folding, I will invariably
fold with the white side as dominant; the foil is very distracting. Also,
with a well made piece of tissue-foil, you will not even see the foil.

>Lang has achieved the same results using onion-skin paper (or similar).
It's
>about being sensitive to the texture and look of the folding material.
>

I have used simmilar types of paper, but I back mine with foil.

One finnal note. If it makes you feel any better, foil users (as in tissue
foil), seem to be in the minority as compared to the wet folders out there.
It is foil backing that needs to be better understood, as its potential has
yet to be reached.
>
>***** "Origami isn't just for squares!" *****

Really cool sig!

Yours (not so argumentatively),

Marc





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 01:21:54 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Origami Bones, etc.

On Wed, 5 Jul 1995 a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com said:

>I would like to watch Marc Kirchenbaum "folding when [he] happens to be
playing
>[his] guitar."  I think he could sell tickets for that performance!

I only do that when trudging through boring folding sequences. I will
usualy sit with my guitar on my lap, alternating between folding, playing,
and perhaps a game of bridge on my computer. I personally think that Jeremy
Shafer does a much better job of juggling.

Marc, will
>you be demonstrating at the next OUSA convention? (Almost a year to wait
..
>sigh ...)

With Origami USA's Convention Annual getting increasingly heavier, I doubt
that I would want to lug around a guitar. However, If Nick Robinson were to
bring his Strat... Personally, I would much rather hear John Montroll play
the piano; he is quite good.

Marc





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 02:21:01 -0300
From: Joseph Wu <jwu@cs.ubc.ca>
Subject: Re: Origami bones, etc.

On Thu, 6 Jul 1995, Carol Hall wrote:

> Here is another aspect to the tool question: Yoshizawa (among others) uses
> T-squares and other drafting tools to prepare his paper.  Do the no-tool
> purists shun that type of paper prep as well?

Just to make it clear: I am a no-tool "purist" only in regards to my own
folding. Other people can fold as they wish without any comments from me.
And as for paper preparation, I do it all the time. Considering that I fold
mainly out of backcoated paper which simply *HAS* to be cut to size, I
can't avoid it! 8)

Joseph Wu      <jwu@cs.ubc.ca> | Witty quote is now back to the
Master's Student               |   drawing board due to squeamish
University of British Columbia |   readers. Any suggestions?
WWW: http://www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/jwu/origami.html (Origami Page)





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 06:18:40 -0300
From: Dr M R Fuller <asa009@comp.lancs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: wet-folders of the Web unite!

Hi Nick,

> PS. check out the WWW BOS page: www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/jwu/Origami/BOS/bos.html
> I've got my own page accessed from there. A Max Hulme Seal will appear within
> the next few days. The BOS had its first member joined via the Web last
     weekend

That was me!

> - the first of many?

Hope so...and looking forward to some interesting feedback from this group.

Regards,
        Mark Fuller





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.CA>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 08:37:13 -0300
From: Douglas Zander <dzander@solaria.sol.NET>
Subject: recommending size of paper

>
> [On a related note, I wish all Origami books would indicate the
> prefered paper size. I've become convinced that many models with
> accompanying photographs are either wet-folded (something I refuse to
> do) or folded out of very large paper.]
>
> Mark Kantrowitz
> mkant@cs.cmu.edu
>
  I agree that a prefered paper size should be recommended for a specific
  size of model.  For example, every model should have a size of paper
  to use to produce a HO scale model.  If the HO scale model is too
  impractical then another scale may be suggested.  I'm not sure what HO
  scale is, is it 1/24 th original size?  Anyways, this would help in
  determining the size of paper to use to make models that are in relative
  scale to one another.  I hate having a dog that is larger than a horse
  because I used the same size paper for each model but each model folded
  down to a different scale.  Does this make any sense to anyone else? :-)
--
 Douglas Zander          | editor of GAMES Player's Zine (GPZ)
 dzander@solaria.sol.net | an ezine for subscribers of GAMES Magazine (tm)





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.CA>
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 09:13:06 -0300
From: "M.J.van.Gelder" <M.J.van.Gelder@rc.rug.nl>
Subject: Re: recommending size of paper

m>  I agree that a prefered paper size should be recommended for a specific
m>  size of model.  For example, every model should have a size of paper
m>  to use to produce a HO scale model.  If the HO scale model is too
m>  impractical then another scale may be suggested.  I'm not sure what HO
m>  scale is, is it 1/24 th original size?  Anyways, this would help in
m>  determining the size of paper to use to make models that are in relative
m>  scale to one another.  I hate having a dog that is larger than a horse
m>  because I used the same size paper for each model but each model folded
m>  down to a different scale.  Does this make any sense to anyone else? :-)

I don't agree with this.
Here in the Netherlands members of our society also ask: 'Could you publish an
advise for the size and the type of paper in our magazine?'.
We don't like to do that.
When you fold a model for the first time it is always some tryal and error.
After you've finished it, you take a nice looking sheet and fold the
'permanent' model. So then you know what size of paper (and what type) you
need.

Maarten van Gelder, Rekencentrum RuG, RijksUniversiteit Groningen, Holland





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 09:59:34 -0300
From: Jennifer.Campbell@CCIW.ca (Jennifer Campbell)
Subject: Re: recommending size of paper

On July 7 (a.m.) Douglas Zander wrote:
>  I agree that a prefered paper size should be recommended for a specific
>  size of model.  For example, every model should have a size of paper
>  to use to produce a HO scale model.  If the HO scale model is too
>  impractical then another scale may be suggested.  I'm not sure what HO
>  scale is, is it 1/24 th original size?  Anyways, this would help in
>  determining the size of paper to use to make models that are in relative
>  scale to one another.  I hate having a dog that is larger than a horse
>  because I used the same size paper for each model but each model folded
>  down to a different scale.  Does this make any sense to anyone else? :-)

I'd like to see more of what I discovered when I looked up the diagrams for
the Last Waltz recently... That is, a phrase giving a ratio such as a "a 10
inch square will make a model 4 inches high" This is an example, not the
actual proportions for this Neal Elias model (which actually starts with a
rectangle). But The Last Waltz did have such a ratio at the top of the
diagrams as did that whole booklet as I recall. Very helpful. That way, no
matter what size paper you start with you can determine how large the final
model will be. I don't think "recommended size" would be as useful (other
than a comment for a very complex model suggesting a large piece of
paper!). And I think scaled-to-life size at fixed proportion like 1/24 or
whatever would be restrictive.

I've done lots of trial and error with model sizes because I like to make
origami 'scenes'. For example, for my librarian brother I made a scene with
a man sitting in an armchair reading a book beside a bookcase filled with
books, with 2 cats and a kitten at his feet and other furniture (all these
items are separate models!) None of the diagrams I used had size ratios
given. I had to figure out all different paper sizes so the scene was to
scale. I actually calculated these ratios before folding the "good copies";
too bad I didn't save them...

       /\_/\       ________
     `(     )' oo /        \
       `==='     | Maguro o |
       /   \     |  kudasai |
      |     |     \________/
      |     |
    ___\___/__jennifer.campbell@cciw.ca





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:26:36 -0300
From: mdc@ivc.ivc.com (Michael Clark)
Subject: Cutting paper to size

>And as for paper preparation, I do it all the time. Considering that I fold
>mainly out of backcoated paper which simply *HAS* to be cut to size, I
>can't avoid it! 8)
>
>Joseph Wu      <jwu@cs.ubc.ca> | Witty quote is now back to the
>Master's Student               |   drawing board due to squeamish
>University of British Columbia |   readers. Any suggestions?
>WWW: http://www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/jwu/origami.html (Origami Page)
>
>
I have been trying to figure out the *best* way to cut paper to size with
precision (modular constructions, ya' know). Sissors clearly don't work.
I have seen references to using X-acto knives and straight edge. Anyone use
a paper cutter? What hints do you have for ensuring square, straight cuts?

TIA.

<<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>><<<<<>>>>>

Michael Clark                        <>
Intelligent Visual Computing         <> I like life.  It's something to do.
2205 Candun Drive, Suite C           <>
Apex, North Carolina  27502          <>                   - Ronnie Shakes
919.363.0292                         <>
mdc@ivc.com                          <>





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:08:46 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: recommending size of paper

Douglas Zander wrote:
+  I agree that a prefered paper size should be recommended for a specific
+  size of model.  For example, every model should have a size of paper
+  to use to produce a HO scale model.  If the HO scale model is too
+  impractical then another scale may be suggested.  I'm not sure what HO
+  scale is, is it 1/24 th original size?  Anyways, this would help in
+  determining the size of paper to use to make models that are in relative
+  scale to one another.  I hate having a dog that is larger than a horse
+  because I used the same size paper for each model but each model folded
+  down to a different scale.  Does this make any sense to anyone else? :-)

to which both Maarten and jennifer replied:

In message <A05D1D02B78@rc.rc.rug.nl> Maarten van Gelder wrote:
+I don't agree with this.
[... -dwp]
+When you fold a model for the first time it is always some tryal and error.
+After you've finished it, you take a nice looking sheet and fold the
+'permanent' model. So then you know what size of paper (and what type) you
+need.

In message <2ffbdd0e4d4e002@csx.cciw.ca> jennifer.campbell wrote:
+I'd like to see more of what I discovered when I looked up the diagrams for
+the Last Waltz recently... That is, a phrase giving a ratio such as a "a 10
+inch square will make a model 4 inches high" This is an example, not the
+actual proportions for this Neal Elias model (which actually starts with a
+rectangle). But The Last Waltz did have such a ratio at the top of the
+diagrams as did that whole booklet as I recall. Very helpful. That way, no
+matter what size paper you start with you can determine how large the final
+model will be. I don't think "recommended size" would be as useful (other
+than a comment for a very complex model suggesting a large piece of
+paper!). And I think scaled-to-life size at fixed proportion like 1/24 or
+whatever would be restrictive.

I would like to chime-in in agreement and say that info on how to fold to a
fixed scale (HO or otherwise) is not very useful to me, and that I like to
see the "10 inch paper makes a 3/4 inch model" version instead.  The same
info is encoded in both, but the later is much easier for me to utilize.

The first time I fold a model, esp. at a class, I like to use big paper.  It
takes a little longer to get the initial creases straight, but gives me a
lot of "elbow" room (I don't know a better term to use).  It also gives me a
better idea of how the folds interact.  For very simple models I might use a
"big" piece of paper that is 6", but for most models, a "big" piece is the
9.75inch paper that is commonly available.  For the first model or two I
don't even bother squaring up the paper, since I don't expect the model to
be of display quality anyways.

I noticed that in the OUSA '95 convention book a lot of the diagrams do have
the "10inch paper makes a 4inch model" info.  The dollar bill book that OUSA
puts out (book at home, so I don't recall the title) with model often gives
a ratio as in "the final model is about 1/4 the size of a dollar" or some
such wording.  I wish more books did this.  As Maarten said, once you have
made a test model you'll "know" or be able to calculate what size paper to use
to get the effect you want.  While that is true, it is also true that having
that info as part of the diagram is useful and shouldn't be excluded any more
than the info about "starting with the colored side up gives you a colored
<foo> with white <bar>" type info, which you could also get from folding a
practice model.

-Doug





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 12:55:14 -0300
From: Joseph Wu <jwu@cs.ubc.ca>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

On Thu, 6 Jul 1995, Michael Clark wrote:

> precision (modular constructions, ya' know). Sissors clearly don't work.
> I have seen references to using X-acto knives and straight edge. Anyone use
> a paper cutter? What hints do you have for ensuring square, straight cuts?

I use an X-acto knife, a straight edge, and a self-healing cutting mat. The
guillotine-type of paper cutter simply is not accurate. The rotary paper
cutters *ARE* accurate, however, I have used them to good effect. Maybe the
people who let me try theirs could give a reference on how to find them?
Thanks.

Joseph Wu      <jwu@cs.ubc.ca> | Witty quote is now back to the
Master's Student               |   drawing board due to squeamish
University of British Columbia |   readers. Any suggestions?
WWW: http://www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/jwu/origami.html (Origami Page)





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 13:50:27 -0300
From: Lillian Sun <Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

          Regarding cutting paper to size:

          I have a *tiny* guillotine (sp?) paper cutter that I used to
          use for making 2 or 3 inch squares for modulars.  The
          biggest problem was that when I stacked several layers of
          paper under the blade and brough tthe blade down, the lower
          edges would slip, causing a slanted edge.  Also, the cuts
          would get jagged when I wasn't paying attention.

          In our Imagiro newletter, some members had discussions about
          paper cutting, and Courtney Sponner recommended rolling
          blade cutters.  They seem pretty awesome: the balde is
          definitely safer (it's not exposed), and the rolling wheel
          blade "grips" better.  I have seen these models in photo
          shops and good art supply centers, and am currently
          investigating various brands.  The really good ones (large,
          with a good surface, grid, nice blade, decent paper stack
          capcity, etc) are quite expensive, so I'm still shopping
          around.

          I think its always a good idea to use a T-square or other
          "standard" (like a square tile or something) to verify a
          square's "squareness."

          If you need addresses of roller cutter distributors, let me
          know.

          Cheers and happy folding!
          Lillian  :)   Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 14:01:42 -0300
From: Lillian Sun <Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com>
Subject: Looking for V'Ann C.

          Hello!

          I was really impressed (again) by the range of models at
          this year's Convention.

          This question goes to V'Ann Cornelius (sp? pardon!), whom I
          believe designed and taught the plinth models... are these
          diagrammed anywhere?  I thought the "shelf-sized" one that
          greeted everyone across the elevator on the 8th floor was
          AWESOME, and I was hoping there were instructions/diagrams
          for it, since I was unable to take your class.  I would love
          to make a "wall-unit" that large for my room!!

          Any help would be great.

          Thanks in advance!

          Cheers,
          Lillian





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 14:28:23 -0300
From: cspooner@gw.jmpstart.com (Courtney Spooner)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

>I use an X-acto knife, a straight edge, and a self-healing cutting mat. The
>guillotine-type of paper cutter simply is not accurate. The rotary paper
>cutters *ARE* accurate, however, I have used them to good effect. Maybe the
>people who let me try theirs could give a reference on how to find them?
>Thanks.

Okay Joseph, was that a subtle hint or what?

Here's some information on the paper cutter Mette Pederson and I use.  After
seeing how easy to use and accurate it cuts, several people have asked me
about it, including Origami USA who just purchased one.

I've had two types of paper cutters now and I hate one and will swear by the
other one.  The first one I had was one of the guillotine types.  It was
extremely frustrating to use because it dragged the paper and just wasn't
that sharp.  Later I found out about the Rotatrim Mastercut paper cutter.
It's a rotary cutter that's extremely sharp and DOES NOT drag the paper.
You can find rotary cutters all over nowadays, they seem to be gaining in
popularity over the guillotine type,  but some of these rotary cutters are
of lower quality.  The Rotatrim Mastercut is sold from a photographic supply
catalog and can be used for high volume accurate cutting.  They're a bit
more expensive than regular paper cutters, but in my opinion are well worth
the price.

The Mastercut cutters use a circular blade encased in a housing that makes
it almost impossible to cut yourself.  I've even had my neighbor's
four-year-old trying to cut the smallest piece of paper possible (confetti
anyone?)  They're very safe, very accurate, and very sharp.  I've had mine
for four years now and the blade has never needed sharpening.

If you're interested you can contact Calumet Photographic at (800) CALUMET.
Ask to have a catalog sent to you.  Be sure to let them know you're
interested in paper cutters (they have several catalogs).  Here's the price
list from my 1994 catalog:

Cut Legth       Size          Price (US$)    Catalog #
12"         17.5"  x  15"      140.95           SO8912
15"        21.5"  x  15"     164.95           SO8915
17.5"     24"  x  15"      181.95             SO8917
24"         30.5"  x  15"      211.95             SO8924
30"         36.5"  x  15"      281.95             SO8930
36"         42.5"  x  15"      334.95             SO8936
42"         48.5"  x  15"      481.95             SO8942
54"         60.5"  x  15"      466.95             SO8954

Happy cutting, I mean folding, I mean cutting then folding...
Courtney Spooner

JumpStart Systems, Inc.
Ph: (919) 832-0490
Fx: (919) 832-0790





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 14:39:07 -0300
From: Jennifer.Campbell@CCIW.ca (Jennifer Campbell)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

Joseph Wu responded to Michael Clark:

>On Thu, 6 Jul 1995, Michael Clark wrote:
>
>> precision (modular constructions, ya' know). Sissors clearly don't work.
>> I have seen references to using X-acto knives and straight edge. Anyone use
>> a paper cutter? What hints do you have for ensuring square, straight cuts?
>
>I use an X-acto knife, a straight edge, and a self-healing cutting mat. The
>guillotine-type of paper cutter simply is not accurate. The rotary paper
>cutters *ARE* accurate, however, I have used them to good effect. Maybe the
>people who let me try theirs could give a reference on how to find them?
>Thanks.
>

It surprised me that someone thinks guillotine-type paper cutters are
"simply not accurate". I've been wishing for one of these for a long time.
I use the one at work (after hours!) and find it works just fine. Perhaps
that's because the grid is marked with such fine lines and the blade is
kept sharp and straight. I make my first cut, then the second at 90 degrees
to it, the third cut parallel to the first and the last cut parallel to the
second and voila--a perfect square. No need to fold or measure to check
that it's square--just lay it on the grid and see how it lines up. In the
unlikey event of errant slivers, trimming them is a breeze (unlike with an
exacto which can accordion the paper).

It helps when lining the paper up with the grid lines to put it just shy of
the line (both horizontal and vertical) rather than exactly on top of the
lines. Then you can see that the corner is square. And it helps to mark the
side length in pencil on the grid board so you make squares and not
rectangles (oops, these then become smaller squares). The only drawbacks I
can see: 1) the size limit of the board, about 2 feet. 2) the minimum paper
size due to the blade offset, about 1.5 inches. 3) you're confined (by our
accurate square requirement) to the measurement system and interval of the
board, usually  half inch or centimetre. If you're cutting for modulars and
want to mix your custom-cut units with purchased paper this may be a
problem.

I'm opposite to Joseph in that I find the exacto-straightedge method
extremely annoying and time consuming and will try to avoid it whenever I
can. Hurray for the guillotine! Off with their edges!

       /\_/\       ________
     `(     )' oo /        \
       `==='     | Maguro o |
       /   \     |  kudasai |
      |     |     \________/
      |     |
    ___\___/__jennifer.campbell@cciw.ca





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 14:51:50 -0300
From: Sheila Davis <sew@hpfisew.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Folding Bones etc.

J.C. Nolan <jay@dhr.com> writes:
> It wasn't until I displayed my miniatures at the '94 convention that I
> discovered that the use of tools is actually frowned upon by some (many it
> seems) folders.
>
        Does anyone else find this type of attitude rather silly?  I've
        been following this discussion with some interest, and while
        I understand those who like to challenge themselves by using
        only their hands as tools, I'm perplexed by those who would
        think that origami folded any other way is somehow less "pure".

        It reminds me of the type of attitude found in the art world where,
        say, animation is not a true art form, since it involves no actors.
        But before that, film was not a true art form since it's not
        performed live.  And before that theater was not a true art
        form because...I don't even the arguments anymore.

        It seems to me that folding a model that pleases the creator
        (and the viewer, if it is to be displayed) is the objective.
        How one reaches that point is irrelevant.

        BTW, I am aware of the Yoshizawa school of thinking where-in
        there is only one correct way to fold a figure.  This is fine
        for "zen origami" or whatever one would want to call it, but
        it certainly does not define the art as a whole.

> For me the basic rule is -- "If it feels good, do it!"

        Bravo!

Regards,

  Sheila Davis        Hewlett-Packard IC Business Division
 sew@hpfisew.fc.hp.com          Fort Collins, Colorado





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 15:02:32 -0300
From: Jennifer.Campbell@CCIW.ca (Jennifer Campbell)
Subject: methylcellulose?

Is methylcellulose the stuff Marc Kirschenbaum mixes in with the wet
folding water to stiffen slightly and set the models when dry?

I've got some prescription eye drops for pink-eye (oh gross!) and they've
got methylcellulose in them! Is that why my eyelid feels like its been
wet-folded? Actually it's more like back-coated!

       /\_/\       ________
     `(     )' oo /        \
       `==='     | Maguro o |
       /   \     |  kudasai |
      |     |     \________/
      |     |
    ___\___/__jennifer.campbell@cciw.ca





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 15:55:14 -0300
From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@concentra.com>
Subject: foreign business card dimensions

As most of you know, I've been folding business cards lately.  My
entire supply is American and they measure 2" x 3.5".  I'm interested
in knowing the dimensions of foreign business cards.  I have an
example of a French card and a Japanese card and their dimensions are
different from eachother.  I don't know whether different countries
have any standardized sizes, or if it's up to the person ordering or
the printer to decide.  Please, if you have any foreign cards, could
you measure them and email me the size in mm and the country of
origin?  If the list is interested, I will compile and report the
results.

        -- jeannine mosely (j9@concentra.com)





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 16:12:37 -0300
From: Mary Jane Heussner <rgtmjh@gsusgi2.Gsu.EDU>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

Well, I just called the 1-800 number that Courtney gave--had to wait a few
minutes--they're probably swamped with origami list calls.  I have a
guillotine cutter that I've used for years and my squares are accurate,
but I have to go to great lengths to make them accurate:  only cut one or
two sheets at a time; hold the entire edge of the paper down with my
fingers as the blade lowers;  adjust the paper slightly because the top
edge is not exactly at right angles to the cutting edge and so on.  I
haven't had trouble with the blade getting dull, but I haven't cut a
large volume of paper with it either.

Mary Jane





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 16:23:23 -0300
From: Grace.Chiu@Cognos.COM (Chiu, Grace)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

While in NYC for the Convention, I found one of those little green Boston
brand
paper trimmers.  It was only $13 from Staples, the office supply megalith.
 It can
cut 4" by 6", and up to 5 sheets of kami at a time.  It's fine and accurate
enough,
plus it was a bonus to be able to carry it around in that green vinyl folio
thing at
Convention.

At work, there's a metric Boston guillotine-type cutter (about 30cm by 40
cm) that comes in handy when I have to cut something with weird
dimensions/proportions
(like "Spring Into Action").

When I have big sheets to cut, I go to a local photography store to use
their
rotary cutter.  There's one (Focus Centre) right across the street from an
art
supply store (Wallack's) here in Ottawa (Bank St.), so it's convenient.
 Generally,
I've noticed that any place that has a Kodak Create-a-Print machine will
have
a rotary cutter.  Saves from shelling out $50-150 for your own rotary cutter
(also
seen at Staples).

BTW, what's this Imagiro newsletter?

Grace
[Grace.Chiu@Cognos.COM -- seems to be my new mail address]
 ----------
Lillian wrote:

          Regarding cutting paper to size:

          I have a *tiny* guillotine (sp?) paper cutter that I used to
          use for making 2 or 3 inch squares for modulars.  The
          biggest problem was that when I stacked several layers of
          paper under the blade and brough tthe blade down, the lower
          edges would slip, causing a slanted edge.  Also, the cuts
          would get jagged when I wasn't paying attention.

          In our Imagiro newletter, some members had discussions about
          paper cutting, and Courtney Sponner recommended rolling
          blade cutters.  They seem pretty awesome: the balde is
          definitely safer (it's not exposed), and the rolling wheel
          blade "grips" better.  I have seen these models in photo
          shops and good art supply centers, and am currently
          investigating various brands.  The really good ones (large,
          with a good surface, grid, nice blade, decent paper stack
          capcity, etc) are quite expensive, so I'm still shopping
          around.

          I think its always a good idea to use a T-square or other
          "standard" (like a square tile or something) to verify a
          square's "squareness."

          If you need addresses of roller cutter distributors, let me
          know.

          Cheers and happy folding!
          Lillian  :)   Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 16:37:28 -0300
From: Jennifer.Campbell@CCIW.ca (Jennifer Campbell)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size (2)

I think I'm going to be out-voted on the paper cutter issue. My earlier
rambling tribute to guillotine choppers only compared a _really high
quality_ guillotine to the exacto-and-ruler method. The guillotine just
"cuts circles" around the exacto! I've used a poor-quality rolling blade
cutter and base my guillotine preference on what tools I have available
here at work. If I was going to buy a cutter for myself I guess I'd
investigate the rolling blade kind too.

       /\_/\       ________
     `(     )' oo /        \
       `==='     | Maguro o |
       /   \     |  kudasai |
      |     |     \________/
      |     |
    ___\___/__jennifer.campbell@cciw.ca





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 16:47:54 -0300
From: Yan Lau <lau@wharton.upenn.edu>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

> Joseph Wu writes:
> >I use an X-acto knife, a straight edge, and a self-healing cutting mat. The
> >guillotine-type of paper cutter simply is not accurate. The rotary paper
> >cutters *ARE* accurate, however, I have used them to good effect. Maybe the
> >people who let me try theirs could give a reference on how to find them?
> >Thanks.

I also use a metal ruler, an X-acto knife and a self-healing (somewhat)
cutting mat.  The plus side is that the mat has gridlines on it so I don't
have to measure and mark.  The cuts are clean and sharp.

Jennifer Campbell writes:
> It surprised me that someone thinks guillotine-type paper cutters are
> "simply not accurate". I've been wishing for one of these for a long time.
> I use the one at work (after hours!) and find it works just fine. Perhaps

Recently, at work, they also got a new guillotine-type paper cutter.  The
old one was worth much--would bend and shred rather than cut.  The new one
was fun to use.  Again the gridlines makes measuring unnecessary.  It was
very sharp and smooth and works great.  First time I used it, I ended up
making confetti.

Have send a rotary cutter in action yet.

Yan.
--
          "I think we're both gonna make it *big*. I am very optimistic."
   )~  Yan K. Lau                                      lau@wharton.upenn.edu
 ~/~   WCIT Department     The Wharton School     University of Pennsylvania
 /\    God/Goddess/All that is -- the source of love, light and inspiration!





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:04:27 -0300
From: Sheldon Ackerman <ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org>
Subject: Re: Folding Bones etc.

> >
>       Does anyone else find this type of attitude rather silly?  I've
>       been following this discussion with some interest, and while
>       I understand those who like to challenge themselves by using
>       only their hands as tools, I'm perplexed by those who would
>       think that origami folded any other way is somehow less "pure".
>
> > For me the basic rule is -- "If it feels good, do it!"
>       Bravo!
> Regards,
>   Sheila Davis        Hewlett-Packard IC Business Division
>  sew@hpfisew.fc.hp.com          Fort Collins, Colorado
>
Yep, I was thinking of starting an even more pure school. No store bought
paper for us. We'd make our own! :-)

--
Sheldon Ackerman
ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:27:53 -0300
From: Richard Kennedy <KENNEDRA@ibm3090.bham.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

There are lots of different guillotines. I've tried using one of the
rotary knife blade types at work. My results have been poor. Maybe its
a poor quality guillotine. Where did yours come from Jennifer?

Richard K.





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:35:00 -0300
From: cspooner@gw.jmpstart.com (Courtney Spooner)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

>It surprised me that someone thinks guillotine-type paper cutters are
>"simply not accurate". I've been wishing for one of these for a long time.
>I use the one at work (after hours!) and find it works just fine. Perhaps
>that's because the grid is marked with such fine lines and the blade is
>kept sharp and straight. I make my first cut, then the second at 90 degrees
>to it, the third cut parallel to the first and the last cut parallel to the
>second and voila--a perfect square. No need to fold or measure to check
>that it's square--just lay it on the grid and see how it lines up. In the
>unlikey event of errant slivers, trimming them is a breeze (unlike with an
>exacto which can accordion the paper).

Jennifer, I do agree with you in that you *can* cut accurately with a
guillotine paper cutter, but you're constrained to cutting only one or two
sheets of paper at a time without experiencing "drag" where the blade pulls
the paper as it cuts through the layers.  With a rotary cutter you can cut
lots of sheets at once with no drag at all.  For example, on the Thursday
before this year's convention I was responsible for cutting up all the odd
sized papers for classes.  I literally cut up *reams* of paper in an hour or
two.  If anyone out there took a class that used dollar bill proportioned
paper, I cut it up (mint green matte foil or light green copier paper sound
familiar?)

So, while you can be accurate with a guillotine cutter, if you plan on
cutting volumes of paper you may want to look into a rotary cutter.

Another thing I use my cutter for (I have the smallest one with only a 12"
cut length) is for cutting squares from wrapping paper.  If I want 6"
squares I accordion fold part of the roll to approximately 7" pleats.  Then
I slide the accordion fold into the cutter and cut up stacks of 6" squares
in no time flat. With this method I'm not limited by the cut length of my
cutter unless I want to use squares larger than 12".

Courtney Spooner
JumpStart Systems, Inc.
Ph: (919) 832-0490
Fx: (919) 832-0790





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:39:23 -0300
From: Jeremy Lakey <jeremyl@uvsg.com>
Subject: Modular Origami

Can anyone point me to a good source for mod. folding?

Thanks..

Jeremyl@uvsg.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:43:27 -0300
From: Jennifer.Campbell@CCIW.ca (Jennifer Campbell)
Subject: Re: foreign business card dimensions

On July 6, Jeannine Mosely asked about business card dimensions:

>As most of you know, I've been folding business cards lately.  My
>entire supply is American and they measure 2" x 3.5".  I'm interested
>in knowing the dimensions of foreign business cards.

Canada isn't exactly foreign, but just for your list:
Our business cards are the same size as U.S. ones (2" x 3.5") I guess
that's no surprise or big deal!
I wish I could have seen what you're doing with these cards (wasn't at
convention) but I remember the discussion on the list about it.

       /\_/\       ________
     `(     )' oo /        \
       `==='     | Maguro o |
       /   \     |  kudasai |
      |     |     \________/
      |     |
    ___\___/__jennifer.campbell@cciw.ca





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:47:12 -0300
From: pdc@lunch.engr.sgi.com (Paul Close)
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

> The Mastercut cutters use a circular blade encased in a housing that makes
> it almost impossible to cut yourself.  I've even had my neighbor's
> four-year-old trying to cut the smallest piece of paper possible (confetti
> anyone?)  They're very safe, very accurate, and very sharp.  I've had mine
> for four years now and the blade has never needed sharpening.

When Joseph mentioned rotary cutters, I thought he meant a hand-held cutter
like the one I use.  I got mine in a sewing store, where they are commonly
used for cutting fabric.  That, a long ruler, and a "healing" cutting mat,
and I'm all set.  Also check out the transparent gridded quilting rulers
while you're in the sewing store.  I find these very easy to use with the
rotary cutter (and no surprise, since they're meant to be used together).

This is a much cheaper solution for us amateurs :-)
--
Paul Close          pdc@sgi.com          http://reality.sgi.com/employees/pdc/

                     No fate but what we make





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:50:08 -0300
From: Richard Kennedy <KENNEDRA@ibm3090.bham.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: BOS booklets, 37

Yes, Spring into Action is in this booklet. It's the last model. As with
most of Jeff's models, the instructions only take up one page, but it's
quite difficult. You get lots of other models for your money.

Richard K.





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:52:56 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting paper to size

+While in NYC for the Convention, I found one of those little green Boston
+brand paper trimmers.  It was only $13 from Staples, the office supply
+megalith.  It can cut 4" by 6", and up to 5 sheets of kami at a time.  It's
+fine and accurate enough, plus it was a bonus to be able to carry it around
+in that green vinyl folio thing at Convention.  At work, there's a metric
+Boston guillotine-type cutter (about 30cm by 40 cm) that comes in handy when
+I have to cut something with weird dimensions/proportions (like "Spring Into
+Action").

I find that I can use a guillotine cutter if I do one sheet at a time, and if
I pinch the paper where I want to cut it.  I use the pinches to line the paper
up along the cutting edge part of the bed.  Very painful, and tough to hold in
place safely.  I have a Dahle Cut Cat (sp?) at home, which is a small rotary,
has only one bar that the cutting assembly rides on, and has a rectangular
grid that is marked to 7x11+ inches.  On the other hand it cost about $60 and
was a good proof of concept, both that rotary cutters worked, and that I would
actually use it!

+When I have big sheets to cut, I go to a local photography store to use
+their rotary cutter.  There's one (Focus Centre) right across the street
+from an art supply store (Wallack's) here in Ottawa (Bank St.), so it's
+convenient.
+ Generally, I've noticed that any place that has a Kodak Create-a-Print
+machine will have a rotary cutter.  Saves from shelling out $50-150 for your
+own rotary cutter (also seen at Staples).

The local Kinko's copy shops in Pittsburgh seem to have a few rotary cutters
each, though it has been >6months since I looked.

-Doug





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:55:15 -0300
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Origami bones, etc.

"Toshies Jewels make disposable cat toys.."

I discovered the hard way that origami polyhedrons make good cat toys: I gave my
brother one of a new design (it wasn't the prototy;e, but it did take about 4
hours to make) and a few weeks later I asked him whether he hung it in his
office or at home (he has an office attached to his home). He got a funny
expression, and when pressed admitted that the cat got a hold of it and badly
damaged it. Turns out the little wire hanger I always put on polys (I think they
need to be hanging up) had slipped inside so he parked it on his desk & meant to
ask me to fix it. The hanger made a wonderful "rattle" inside that interested
one of his 2 cats...

Since then I've made cat toys of my 12-unit chewing gum semi-sonobe unit (about
1 1/2 in dia.) and put a piece of tightly rolled & compacted paper ball (another
wrapper works well and there are 15 to a gum pack, so you've got a spare plus
the "rattle" if you make 12-unit gizmos). It rattles & scrapes and whispers and
the cats go bananas. Plus I think the lingering fragrance of some gums intrigues
them...

Valerie Vann
Compuserve: 75070,304  or Internet:75070.304@compuserve.com
Internet:   vvann@delphi.com
            valerivann@aol.com





Return-path: <origami-l@nstn.ca>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 18:08:48 -0300
From: christer@mminfo.se (ChristerHedberg)
Subject: Re: foreign business card dimensions

>Please, if you have any foreign cards, could
>you measure them and email me the size in mm and the country of
>origin?  If the list is interested, I will compile and report the
>results.

Hi Jeannine!

Almost all of the business cards I design are 90x55mm. That's the most
common size for cards here in Sweden.

Cheers,

Christer Hedberg
millimeter information
Gothenburg, Sweden
