




Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 22:57:59 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Edward R. Hamilton info.

A while back I promised to look up the Edward R. Hamilton contact info if
no one else beat me to it.  I haven't seen it go by, so here it is:
        Edward R. Hamilton, Bookseller
        Falls Village, CT 06031-5000

The only catalog I have saved doesn't list Mythical Beings, but I have noticed
that their listed selections come and go.  They have a flat $3.00 Postage
and Handling fee, and nothing about shipping outside the USA.  They have
no phone number on the catalog and the copy says:

        To offer the lowest possible prices all orders must be prepaid.  We
        do no billing and do not accept credit cards.

-Doug





Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 23:05:33 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Backcoating Foil (was Re: Nasty Adhesives.)

In message <Pine.SUN.3.91.950411110611.16115B-100000@cascade.cs.ubc.ca>,
    Joseph Wu wrote:
+The problem with trying to backcoat foil and tissue together is that
+backcoating typically involves paste (either a wheat or rice flour-based
+paste, or something like methyl cellulose). Paste works by partially
+soaking into the fibres of the papers that are being backcoated together.
+Smooth surfaces, such as metal foil, do not soak up the paste and therefore
+cannot make a permanent bond.

You are right, of course.  When I talked about foil, I wasn't thinking of
plain foil, but of the "foil paper" that one typically gets in prepacked
origami paper, which is foil on one side and plain white paper on the other.
In that case, someone (the origami paper maker) has already done the gluing
for you.  Maybe you can use the plain white paper to backcoat with, assuming
that the backcoating doesn't dissolve the adhesive that is holding the foil
to the white paper!

-Doug





Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 23:50:05 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Have you seen this?

How were you able to obtain this essay? If he happens to have any spare
time, I would like to meet for a challange in "full contact origami."

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 00:18:19 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: diagrams for convention; when are they due?

Sorry about the ambiguity. Actually, I am one of the managing editors of
OrigamiUSA's publications, but I intended the last line to be my signature.
You can mention my name when submitting diagrams, but "Att:Publications"
should suffice. If you do mention my name, my co-editors Bob Stack and
Meyer Gotz might think that I am playing favorites if I pick your model
(they customarily reject my own models, just to tick me off, and then
include them at the last minute.

You can submit as many models as you wish, but at most three will be
published in a given publication by any one creator. The 1994 Convention
Annual had over 100 models by about 70 creators from all over the world. We
like to retain such diversity.

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 00:25:25 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

In message <950411205839_79971202@aol.com> Vern "Origamiist" wrote:
+I work in an advertising agency (sorry) and we use an adhesive on a sheet.
+there are 2 kinds: [... details elided.  -dwp]

Thanks for that info.  Once you mentioned it, I remembered going into a local
art store and finidng the spray.  When I asked them for an alternative, they
had some kind of sheet, but it was so expensive I din't get any other details
on it.

Oddly enough, in today's mail was a sale flyer and spring supplement for the
Dick Blick Art Materials catalog.  They are having a 15% off sale on
their "Rollataq Adhesive Applicator".  To quote from the catalog:

    The Rollataq handheld adhesive applicator eliminates the need for spray
    adhesive... Requires no electricity or warming-up time and takes only
    seconds to apply a 2-1/2" wide, micro-thin clear coating.  Adhesive
    remains repositionable for 10 minutes.  After burnishing, it dries to a
    strong permanent bond.  The non-toxic adhesive is safe for any work
    environment because it is completely odorless.  Comes filled with Rollataq
    Adhesive.

It seems that the only downside to this is burnishing.  Can anyone tell me what
that entails?   (Assuming that their safety claim is true.)

The Dick Blick 24-hour order number is 1-800-447-8192 if anyone wants to call
for their own catalog. ;-)

    -Doug





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 00:44:08 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Nasty Adhesives.

In message <v01510100abb108093d84@[204.131.233.17]> Jerry D. Harris wrote:
+        Well, I most certainly wasn't trying to be cavalier about anything,
+nor dismiss the _potential_ harmeful effects!  I regret that that was how
+my message came across. [... -dwp]  The warnings describe the _possible_
+harmful effects -- the original posting to which I responded was from
+someone who announced that, after reading the warning label, were absolutely
+never, ever going to use spray mount.  What I intended with my initial
+response was that this really is going overboard [... -dwp]

First I want to thank Paul Close for his reply to Jerry's first message,
because it was my reaction almost exactly.

As to Jerry's point.  I see that I didn't explain my position very well.
Let me try to be explicit.  I want to attach two pieces of paper (foil
counting as paper in this context).  My criteria for deciding which methods
to use are mostly the following, in order of importance:
    Safety must be a no brainer.
    Minimize wasted materials.  This includes drop cloths, newspaper or
        otherwise, the adhesive itself, etc. etc.
    Minimize hassle.
    Minimize space needed.
    Minimize environmental constraints. Ventilation requirements mean
        having windows open, which means that on many days during winter it
        is too cold out to have windows open, so I can't do this.  Temp. and
        humidity requirements that would preclude summer and/or winter
        gluing are also bad.
    Minimize time needed.  This includes time to do operation, and time
        waiting for things to set or dry.

And there are probably others.
I should out that these are *my* criteria, and if you have others, that is
OK.  My original message should have included the criteria list and then
asked: what are the alternatives to spray adhesives?

-Doug

P.S.  Thanks to everyone who has replied so far, and if you haven't replied
yet, please do!





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 00:56:52 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

The sheet adhesive that you mentioned sounds like what OrigamiUSA uses for
their publications when laying out diagrams on a grid. The dry adhesive
sheets contain many little pelets og glue, which can be burnished onto our
diagrams. The diagrams will then have glue on their backs, which is tacky
enough for the diagrams to be placed on a non-repro-blue grid. When the
diagrams are satisfactorally  positioned, they can be burnished to the grid
paper for permanency.

The so called burnishing process involves laying a protective layer of
tracing paper over the artwork, and then rubbing over the survace with a
tool that is akin to a folding none. This is a pain in the neck for diagram
sized artwork. I'd stick to the spray adhesives for making tissue foil,
unryu foil, or any other paper foil combimation.

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 01:03:43 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Nasty Adhesives.

In message <9503117976.AA797624323@mail.amsinc.com>, Lillian Sun wrote:
+          I was wondering what was wrong/difficult about using REGULAR
+          glue stick (as opposed to Post-It's *removable* glue stick)
+          to attach foil to tissue....  I have used UHU's disappearing
+          purple glue stick to do *small* batches of foil to tissue,
+          and discovered that if you apply the glue to the foil only,
+          and then !slowly! lay the tissue down (starting from one
+          edge/side and smoothing it down as you go with a ruler or
+          other flat object), it works well.

How well did the paper stay stuck together during folding?  What sized paper
did you start out with?  I would be curious to know how well that kind of glue
holds up over time, as in drying out, cracking, etc.

Thanks!
    -Doug





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 01:16:15 -0300
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject:

What I'd like to know is: What exactly is "full contact origami"? My mind
runneth over with ideas, but some of them get pretty ludicriss - ludicrous -
silly... Sounds like a novelty competition for the next convention!

Speaking of conventions... (how's that for a segue?) My husband and I help to
plan and run a Science Fiction convention (read Star Trek) here in Denver
twice a year. We just finished our Spring show...  As a project for the
     convention, my Affiliate group attempted to fold 1,000 cranes for the Make
     A Wish
Foundation. We were taking $1.00 donation for each crane we folded (or at least
we started out that way) then, we decided we wanted to fold 1,000 cranes anyway
whether we got money for them all or not - that way MAW will get all the cranes
for a Wish. We wound up raising just a little over $300... ok, but a little bit
disappointing. I was hoping with the number of attendees we had (about 4,500)
we would get a little more than $300. However, I wasn't considering our demo-
graphics... males around 22 years old are our dominate group. Not big spenders
when it comes to charity. So, we probably did ok. We also had a display of
origami models that we would allow people to purchase if they wanted to. One of
my group had spent weeks making Fuse boxes (from _Quick and Easy Origami Boxes_)
and wound up selling 32 of them!) I wish I had taken the directions for Thoki
Yenn's _DNA Molecule_ because it seemed to get the most attention, and I could
have probably sold a dozen or so of them! My Patricia Crawford Three masted
sailing ship in a David Brill bottle got some attention, too, but I just could
not force myself to sell them - too much work involved (the ship alone, counting
the time it took to make the tissue foil) took me nearly four hours!

I guess that is a major problem with selling origami - if you really sell it for
what it is worth, people look at it like "It's a piece of paper..." not thinking
that it sometimes takes a long time to get that piece of paper to look that way!
Does anyone have any idea where I can get some of the papers Tomoko Fuse used
for some of the boxes in _Decoration Boxes_? In particular the stunning black/
gold and silver that she used for the space ship box? I really think it is cool.
I just got the book the other day, thinking I would be ok since I don't really
"need" writing, I can get by using the diagrams.... I wonder what I am missing!
They've been really fun though, and I HAVE figured out a few things! I never
appreciated a standard set of symbols until now!

Anyone done Issei Yoshino's T. Rex skeleton? Is typing/copy paper ok? I am
really eager to get going on that one, too!  (I turned 35 the other day, and
dear old Mom had handed me a check and said to spend it however/wherever I
wanted  :-D  )

Sorry to ramble....

Dee





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 03:17:15 -0300
From: Origamiist@aol.com
Subject: Re: Adhesives

Marc Kirschenbaum wrote:
>The sheet adhesive that you mentioned sounds like what OrigamiUSA uses for
>their publications when laying out diagrams on a grid. The dry adhesive
>sheets contain many little pelets og glue, which can be burnished onto our
>diagrams. The diagrams will then have glue on their backs, which is tacky
>enough for the diagrams to be placed on a non-repro-blue grid. When the
>diagrams are satisfactorally  positioned, they can be burnished to the grid
>paper for permanency.

Almost right. I have used the adhesive you mentioned. It is very low tack.
The 3-M product and the twin-tack sheets I mentioned are extremely strong.
(twin-tak is as strong as as the adhesive found on sticky labels. Very strong
stuff!)
Just thought I would clear that up.
-Vern





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 06:47:33 -0300
From: Lillian Sun <Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Favorite Books

          Dover's address is:

          Dover Publications, Inc.
          31 East 2nd Street
          Mineola, NY  11501

          Cheers,
          Lillian





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 11:29:42 -0300
From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@concentra.com>
Subject: Re: Have you seen this?

The college application essay submitted to the list recently, for its
mention of "full contact origami" has been making the Internet rounds
for the last five years.  This is the third time I have seen it in its
original form.  Another time, I saw a slight variation of it,
purporting to be, not from a college applicant, but from a Grateful
Dead fan trying to get free tickets from a concert organizer (the last
line being, of course, "I have not yet gone to a Grateful Dead concert
. . .).  It is very funny, but there is no real evidence that it was
ever actually submitted to a college admissions department.

No doubt, full contact origami requires spraying your (naked) body
with 3M adhesive and sandwiching yourself between a sheet a tissue
paper and a roll of aluminum foil.

        -- jeannine





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 12:57:48 -0300
From: Rjlang@aol.com
Subject: I'm back! -- Responses to lots of stuff

Hi, all! I'm back after a week in sunny England ("sunny" in the sense of
"cold, overcast and drizzling") and the BOS spring convention, only to find
247 (count 'em) messages from origami-l stuffed into my in box. So this is
going to be a longish, shotgun-style response to lots of things folks have
said or asked about over the last two weeks.  Here goes...

>From a thread between V'Ann and Mark Casida about chemistry and origami...

> Clusters of atoms also form an interesting area to search for
> interesting forms.  A cluster of 4 argon atoms form the vertices
> of a tetrahedron.  A cluster of 13 argon atoms form the 12 vertices
> of an icosahedron plus one in the center... [deleted stuff]...
> I think there are deeper questions involved in all of this.  Do we
> find symmetry in nature because we look for it or because that is
> what nature prefers?  I suspect that the answer is a bit of both.

Just an interesting side comment: as has been mentioned here before, I've
been working on mathematical algorithms for origami design -- specifically,
how you place points on a square to correspond to flaps on a base -- and it
turns out that the equations that govern placement of the points resemble
quite closely a nearest-neighbor potential between atoms in a two-dimensional
space; and when you minimize the potential energy of the point distribution,
they tend to form up in crystalline lattices that quite often have a 3-fold
or 4-fold symmetry.

And for all you who posted comments such as the following:

> The praying mantis is indeed amazing...
> My favorite Lang model (and one of my all-time favorites, actually) is
> Lang's Hermit Crab from Origami Sea Life (by Montroll and Lang).
> My favorite Lang model is the origamiist..
> I also like his guitarist because I can fold it for performers at
concerts!...
>I like Lang's "action" models...

Thank you very much, and your endorsement checks are in the mail <g>.

And for those who posted assorted criticisms: this reply contains a Trojan
horse virus that is busily erasing your hard disk even as you read this
message <gg>. Such as the following from Tom "the scourge of origami-math"
Hull:

>  I love the Chambered Nautilus model, and I've been able to make
> it with any kind of paper I want.  BUT I don't follow Robert Lang's
> instructiions!  Sorry Rob, but the method of "popping" open the
> spirals is very hard on the paper and tends to tear.
>  So my suggestion is to totally skip that "popping" step (I don't
> have the book with me now, so I don't know the step number).  Instead
> maneuver the paper into it's spiral shape on your own - all the > creases
> are there (I think) so just do it!  (It's kinda like making Matthew
> Green's "Wave", or any other pattern fold.)
>  That probably doesn't help much. Sorry.  Just don't follow the
> diagrams - study what the model is supposed to become and get their
> via your own route.  The paper need not tear!

Actually, he's right. You *can* fold the Chambered Nautilus using the
sequence in OSL without tearing the paper -- the key is when you sink the
paper in and out, don't make the creases sharp, since they're going to be
undone in the future and they only weaken the paper. However, if you really
want a good-looking model, you should follow the folding sequence exactly,
but instead use it as a guide to show you where the creases are supposed to
be. In general, I (and most diagrammers) put a lot of precreases, et cetera
into diagrams to make it clear and to break the folding sequence up into
manageable bite-sized pieces; but you should look upon them as a starting
point for the model, not the only possible way to fold it. In fact, when I
fold models for exhibition, I rarely use exactly the same sequence that I use
for the diagrams, preferring to put in the minimum number of precreases and
then collapse everything together at once. But that style of folding is no
fun to diagram and even less fun to try to follow!

And from Paul Close:

> Steps 8-11 [of the Praying Mantis] have got to be the most
> twisted, devlishly complex folds
> I have seen since his horse fly model!

Why, thank you! I was hoping for "sick and demented," but I'll settle for
that!

> Someone mentioned that Montroll's models tend to define the line between
> intermediate and advanced.  I agree, and would add that Lang's models
define
> the line between advanced and insane!  Let me explain....
> Lang's models are anything but relaxing,
> but when I'm done there's a certain perverse pleasure in having
> "solved the puzzle".

Yup. One difference between John's and my philosophies of designing models
(correct me if I don't get this right, John) is that John generally includes
the folding sequence as part of the design and tries to avoid using the more
tendon-popping maneuvers, while I, although I don't go out of my way to make
something hard, don't especially try to make it easy if there's no other to
obtain a particular outcome. Such as the technique for splitting a middle
point into four smaller points used in the Praying Mantis; if anyone can work
out an easier way of doing that, I'll gladly use it; but for now, that's the
only sequence I know for accomplishing the result, so that's what you have to
do!

And now for my favorite subject:

> Is there any software to help people to "design" origami works? A virtual
> paper can be shown, folded/unfolded in 3-D and 2-D view. I know this is
> tough but challenging. It sure saving a lot of time and try-and-error if
the
> software is well written. Multi-layer geometry information and connections
> saved in the memory would be a big plus.

A couple of years ago I wrote a program called Treemaker 2 that does part of
the job of computing a crease pattern for origami bases; you enter in a stick
figure of the model you're trying to fold, and it computes the locations of
all of the flaps on the square and some of the major creases. However, it
turned out not to be so useful because it is *really* hard to figure out
where the rest of the creases go! (It's posted on the archives if you want to
have a go at it.) During the past year, based on input from Tom Hull, Jun
Maekawa, Fumiaki Kawahata, and others, I've been working on a new version
(Treemaker 3) that prints out the *full* crease pattern (including which are
mountain and which are valley folds), and although I'm still into heavy
debugging mode, I've run enough samples to produce some pretty interesting
results: such as a version of Peter Engel's 32-legged centipede (from Folding
the Universe) from a square, for example. I showed it at the BOS convention
to good response, and I'll be showing it (and results) at the OUSA convention
in June.

(And incidentally, Alex, I printed out the deer with the ears in the right
place and it folded up perfectly.)

> Robert Lang,
> if you're listening, I'd like to know about the proportions
> in the first
> few steps [of the Chambered Nautilus] and how you came to them.

Basically, if you make the angle wider, it coils up too fast; if you make the
angle narrower, it doesn't coil fast enough. I chose the angle to get the
coil rate right, and then played around to find a sequence to get that angle.

> Also does anyone have suggestions as to how to fold/sink the
> impossibly thick point in Lang's postscript mantis?
> What a challenge!  What paper works here?  "Origami" paper is DOA long
> before that step and self destructs completly when I attempt it.

My favorite paper for folding the Praying Mantis is, believe it or not, good
ol' ten-inch origami paper. It (and all of the models in the upcoming Origami
Insects) can be folded from ten-inch paper (influence of J. Montroll)
although it may not be easy to do so (influence of R. Lang). The thing you
have to do is to be absolutely precise about your folding in the early stages
-- any unnecessary folding will weaken the paper, even after-the-fact
adjusting of the location of creases -- and you need to make your creases
precise without making them razor-sharp, which also weakens the paper. This
takes some practice, I'll admit, but I think it's a useful discipline: if you
can fold a model that supposedly "requires foil" from origami paper, then
when you actually do fold it from foil, it will be *very* well-folded indeed.
Also, folding from ten-inch paper, with all of its weaknesses, is good
practice for wet-folding, since wet-folding paper also has its limitations.

> I was looking at an old issue of the Newsletter for FOCA (#46) which
> featured you...[deleted stuff].  The patterned
> tortoise in the cover is quite detailed, much more so than the turtle in
> Origami Animals.  Is is diagramed in any of your books?  I was also
wondering
> about the rabbit(the best I've ever seen) and the otter.  If these are
> available anywhere I'd like to know.

The patterned tortoise and rabbit are both in _Origami Zoo_, which is by
myself and Stephen Weiss. The tortoise in _Zoo_ has a smooth shell, but all
you have to do to make the patterned one is to make a network of tiny pinch
marks all over the shell to define the pattern (note that the ridges of the
network are on the *inside* of the shell, which means you have to open up the
bottom of the shell to get your fingers inside to make the pinches. It's kind
of hard, but well worth the effort.  The Otter isn't diagrammed yet.

> Speaking of the black forest cuckoo clock, I recall hearing rumors that
> the diagrams were going to be published sometime in the future.  So
> what's the word on this, Robert?

The BFCC is slated for an upcoming book, which I am working on now. Schedules
being what they are, it's probably about 2 years away from publication.

> > I have also been considering suggesting a list of errata for origami
books,
> > but had not decided how to bring up the issue without offending any
authors!
> On the contrary. I'd say the authors would be thankful for having any
errors
> pointed out!

I, for one, would like to hear about any errors you may find (or even things
that aren't necessarily errors but are ways that things could be done more
clearly). However, as a practical matter, it's difficult to correct errors
once they're in print as publishers are loath to make any changes once
they've made plates for a print run. So, I've resorted to sending things out
to multiple proofreaders before they go to press, and hopefully, the rate of
errors in my books are dropping over time (thanks, Marc!).

Ciao for nao,

Robert





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 13:42:44 -0300
From: hull@hypatia.math.uri.edu
Subject: Re: Have you seen this?

Hey dudes and dudettes!

        In response to Mark K. and Jeannine, the "full contact origami"
letter WAS actually sent as the personal statement of a guy trying
to get into NYU.  He was accepted.
        The original appeared in an old issue of Harper's magazine.
I highly doubt I still have a copy of this, but I'll look.

------------------- Tom "passion fruit plus" Hull





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 14:58:35 -0300
From: Matt Mason <Matt_Mason@cs.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Error Condition Re: Robot origami?

I'm curious if there have been any projects in paper folding by machine.
It seems unlikely that a robot could really do it, but perhaps a robot
could help?  As a reference point, robots do make things by bending sheet
metal, using a brake to do the actual bending.

I'm also curious about mathematical analysis of paper folding, and about
the physics of paper, folded paper, or the paper folding process.  The only
work I'm aware of is by David Huffman:  "Curvature and creases:  a primer
on paper", IEEE Transactions on Computers vol C-25, n10, October 1976.

In case you're wondering what I have in mind...

Every summer Carnegie Mellon has a program (Andrew's Leap) for smart high
school kids in the Pittsburgh area.  Last year we worked on robot
knot-tying, braiding, etc.  We introduced the students to mathematical knot
theory, and programmed three microbots to tie some knots and to braid.  I'm
thinking of attempting paper-folding, perhaps in 1996.  Any help would be
greatly appreciated!





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 15:06:53 -0300
From: bryan@sgl.ists.CA (Bryan Feir)
Subject: Re: Robot Origami?

> I'm curious if there have been any projects in paper folding by machine.
> It seems unlikely that a robot could really do it, but perhaps a robot
> could help?  As a reference point, robots do make things by bending sheet
> metal, using a brake to do the actual bending.

   Well, back at Expo '86 in Vancouver when I was there, they had a robot
in the Canada pavilion that would take a sheet of paper, fold it into a paper
airplane, and then throw it across the room.  It wasn't terribly sophisticated,
and had obviously been designed in part to do exactly this, but it was fun
to watch, anyway.

   No idea who you'd want to talk to about this, though.

---------------------------+---------------------------------------------------
Bryan Feir           VE7GBF|"A wrangle is the disinclination of two boarders to
bryan@sgl.ists.ca          | each other that meet together but are not in the
                           | same line."              -- Stephen Leacock





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 15:05:41 -0300
From: dzimm@ivc.ivc.com (Dave Zimmerman)
Subject: Re: Error Condition Re: Robot origami?

from 'Matt Mason'
>
> I'm curious if there have been any projects in paper folding by machine.
>
There exit robots (well, machines, anyway) that fold newspapers, fold letters
and stuff them in envelopes and the like.

--
--
\ The    _____
 \  /\  /idget
\ \/  \/ _______        David Zimmerman           The Widget Workshop
 \  /\  /orkshop        dzimm@ivc.com             1143-I Executive Circle
  \/  \/    Inc.        919 481 3352              Cary NC 27511
--
A plan is just a tangential vector on the monifold of reality
                            --"Skratch" Garrison





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 16:05:40 -0300
From: chiug@Cognos.COM (Grace Chiu)
Subject: Re: Fuse Boxes Books

Dee referred to Fuse boxes made from the books _Quick and Easy
Origami Boxes_ and _Decoration Boxes_.  I haven't heard of
these two books, only "Origami Boxes", "Unit Origami", plus
a series of 4 books in Japanese.  Are these among the Japanes
books?  Or are these available in English?  In either case,
could you provide the ISBN numbers?  I'd like to hunt them down.
I can't get enough of Tomoko Fuse's models!

Regards,
Grace





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 16:21:29 -0300
From: jtweres@psp.att.com
Subject: Re: cutting paper & spray adhesives

fellow paper folders,,,

CUTTING PAPER:

as far as cutting paper goes,
there's a art/drafting device specially designed to make perfect squares

you can adjust the runners on it
to makes practically any size square

i've seen it at local art stores
although haven't picked one up myself just yet

SPRAY ADHESIVE:

i see that it's become "Nasty Adhesive" now;
i don't know if people are spraying reams of paper together in a closet
but it is not that BIG of a deal to use these adhesives
especially for the great results one achieves

as with any art
sometimes one needs to take precautions in using some of the materials

spend some time in the beautiful sunshine
and make all the paper you want
THEN enjoy folding it

---

c         _     m                        MAKE THINGS HAPPEN
 o        \\     i
  l      ((\\     c
   o      (\___    r          -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
    s      ||       o           -=-=-=-=-=-                       -=-=-=-=-=-
     s  ========     s            -=-=-=-=-   jack thomas weres   -=-=-=-=-
      a               c             -=-=-=-                       -=-=-=-
       l               o              -=-=-  jtweres@psp.att.com  -=-=-
                        p               -=-                       -=-
                         e                -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 16:35:09 -0300
From: Lillian Sun <Lillian_Sun@mail.amsinc.com>
Subject: Re: I'm back! -- Responses to lots of stuff

          Dear Robert Lang,

          So, are we going to get a full report of the BOS Convention,
          please?

          Thanx for your previous posting, too!

          Cheers,
          Lillian





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 16:54:05 -0300
From: Yusri Johan <gs01yyj@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Subject: Re: Fuse Boxes Books

You (Grace Chiu) wrote:
>
> Dee referred to Fuse boxes made from the books _Quick and Easy
> Origami Boxes_ and _Decoration Boxes_.  I haven't heard of
> these two books, only "Origami Boxes", "Unit Origami", plus
> a series of 4 books in Japanese.  Are these among the Japanes
> books?  Or are these available in English?  In either case,
> could you provide the ISBN numbers?  I'd like to hunt them down.
> I can't get enough of Tomoko Fuse's models!
>
> Regards,
> Grace

Grace, you  might want to check the origami supplies list from OUSA.
OUSA has many of Fuse's Origami Books (Japanese as well as translated
version).  One of the Fuse's books comes in some sort of origami kit
(books + paper).  I don't quite remember if that one is _Quick and Easy
origami Boxes or Origami Boxes_.  I have seen it several times in the
local bookstores.  It comes in a red box with some of his boxes model
printed on the box.

Later.
--
Yusri Johan (gs01yyj@panther.gsu.edu)
Georgia State University
http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/home.html
Origami Page: http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/origami/origami.html





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 17:18:53 -0300
From: Sheldon Ackerman <ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org>
Subject: Re: Fuse Boxes Books

  One of the Fuse's books comes in some sort of origami kit
> (books + paper).
A while back I was thinking what a great idea it would be if Lang's books
would come with paper already cut to the desired dimensions and marked off
to make my life easier :-)
No...I'd make the models myself, or at least stand a better chance of
completing them. You should have seen that clock I started. First I found
wrapping paper. Then I cut it to the desired proportion. Then I tried
marking off the desired spots for the creases. By the time I was up to the
last mark I was already off. I continued folding anyway. Can't remember at
which point I gave up.

--
Sheldon Ackerman
ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 17:32:42 -0300
From: Jeannine Mosely <j9@concentra.com>
Subject: Re: Fuse Boxes Books

   Errors-To: listmgr@nstn.ca
   Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 16:54:05 -0300
   Errors-To: listmgr@nstn.ca
   Reply-To: origami-l@nstn.ca
   Originator: origami-l@nstn.ca
   Sender: origami-l@nstn.ca
   Precedence: none
   From: Yusri Johan <gs01yyj@panther.Gsu.EDU>
   X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas

   You (Grace Chiu) wrote:
   >
   > Dee referred to Fuse boxes made from the books _Quick and Easy
   > Origami Boxes_ and _Decoration Boxes_.  I haven't heard of
   > these two books, only "Origami Boxes", "Unit Origami", plus
   > a series of 4 books in Japanese.  Are these among the Japanes
   > books?  Or are these available in English?  In either case,
   > could you provide the ISBN numbers?  I'd like to hunt them down.
   > I can't get enough of Tomoko Fuse's models!
   >
   > Regards,
   > Grace

   Grace, you  might want to check the origami supplies list from OUSA.
   OUSA has many of Fuse's Origami Books (Japanese as well as translated
   version).  One of the Fuse's books comes in some sort of origami kit
   (books + paper).  I don't quite remember if that one is _Quick and Easy
   origami Boxes or Origami Boxes_.  I have seen it several times in the
   local bookstores.  It comes in a red box with some of his boxes model
   printed on the box.

   Later.
   --
   Yusri Johan (gs01yyj@panther.gsu.edu)
   Georgia State University
   http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/home.html
   Origami Page: http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/origami/origami.html

Tomoko Fuse is a woman.  My husband (a linguist) informs me that only
women's names end in "o" in Japanese.





Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 22:50:42 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: DEVIL FISH

The diagrams for Robert Langs's "Blackdevil Angler" (a.k.a. Devil Fish),
can be found in _Origami Sea Life_, by Robert Lang and John Montroll.

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 23:08:45 -0300
From: sherman@heartland.bradley.edu (Susan Herman)
Subject: kids

I am thoroughly enjoying the discussions. A suggestion to those
who want to encourage creativity - look into volunteering to teach
origami to 4-H clubs (in Ill. thru Univ. of Ill. Cooperative Extension)
As a 4-H leader for 12 years, I saw my son, who introduced me to origami,
take a complete origami scene to State Fair and receive top honors.
4-Hers are excited by learning and truly strive to "make the best better."
It is very rewarding to watch as YOU learn too! Many thanks especially
to the authors among you for providing excellent resources.





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 19:10:20 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting Techniques

In message <199504121835.LAA19531@lunch.engr.sgi.com> Paul Close wrote:
+Anyway, to get square paper, what I do is fold along one diagonal.  Then I
+fold that fold against itself, making a triangle.  Then I measure an equal
+amount down each side of the triangle, and cut the edges.
+
+Like so:
+     ____       ___
+    |   /|     |\  /     |\
+    |  / |     | \/      | \
+    | /  |     | /       | /
+    |/___|     |/        |/
+                         ^
+    first      second    |
+    fold       fold      cut here
+
+This is what I use for cutting wrapping paper, and it works fine for me.

Paul,

    I use that very same technique when cutting other randomly shaped pieces
    into squares (wrapping paper, speciality paper, candy bar wrappers ;-),
    etc.).  I have found though, that the thickness of the paper causes the
    resulting form to be not square.  I wouldn't use that technique to tidy up
    already almost square paper for that reason.  I do find that it gets me
    close enough for what I want to do though.

    -Doug





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 19:11:57 -0300
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: cutting paper & spray adhesives

In message <9504131917.AA27353@ig1.att.att.com> jack thomas weres wrote:
+as far as cutting paper goes,
+there's a art/drafting device specially designed to make perfect squares
+
+you can adjust the runners on it
+to makes practically any size square
+
+i've seen it at local art stores
+although haven't picked one up myself just yet

I have seen those too, but I thought that there were Mat Cutters.  I have
always been curious to know how they would work with paper, since it looks
like they rely on the thickness of the mat to keep from tearing or bending
instead of cutting.

Has anyone tried using a mat cutter on paper?

-Doug





Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 21:11:58 -0300
From: Jeremy Michael Shafer <jugami@cats.ucsc.edu>
Subject: Pleatings ye all!

Hello, origami computer people , this is Chris Palmer writing to you from
Jeremy Shafer's account.... yes he is on the net. Here are some notes on
my recent work: The method of folding on top of an already folded paper,
then unfolding and rearranging the folds so that the previously enclosed
layers are free is called "decreeping" by Jeremy and myself. I have used
this method, combining different patterns with traditional tato (purse)
bases to produce a bouquet of new flowers. (I just published diagrams for
one of them in the upcoming BARF newsletter.) I have also used this method
to produce new infinite progression patterns (this method is much easier
than the process for the Flower Tower) and a new variety of new action
models that move not while you are touching them,but after you have let go
(up to approximately 10 seconds so far).
 This portion of the note is in...
particular aimed at Tom "loves a challenge" Hull but anyone might find it
fruitful. The following are some brief descriptions (tantalizing tidbits)
of new tessellation patterns I have discovered which are keys to rooms
containing several new families of patterns. Take these descriptions as
clues that are ambiguous enough to possibly allow you to pull out new
patterns in your own style.  I can tell you if you have overlapped when we
see each other in N.Y.  Overlap is inevitable of course because there are
some very clear solutions to these problems that I have already folded,
but you will have the pleasure of exploring these little nuggets without
knowing exactly what they look like. I will tell you that they are
incredibly beautiful!  CLUES :
 1. Ring of eight octagon twists (close
back , open back 1, open back 2 are all possible -hint- open backs must be
combined with close back)
 2. Iso-Area open back 2 twist octagons (more
than one possible solution)
 3.Iso-Area open back 1 twist octagons
(different arrangement than the J+C pattern in my paper) note - patterns
2, 3, and the J+C pattern can be arranged according to the ring of eight
mentioned above.
 4. Dodecagon twist with Triangle twists (no squares)
 5.Hexagon +Square+ Triangle twist patterns (several variations possible).
 6.Octagon +Hexagon+Triangle twist patterns (Impossible you say!  Possible
say the Islamic craftsmen! Hint- not all of the triangles are
equilateral.)
 Hope you enjoy searching for the solutions to these little
puzzlers, and that I have not distracted you from your schoolwork. I'm
looking foward to seeing you and all the origami heads in N.Y. this
summer.  Sincerely, Chris K.  Palmer P. S. I' d love to hear from you or
anyone interested via this account.  (Jeremy's)
 from Jeremy...  Yes, I am on the net although I have been a silent
participant.  Lately most of my origami time has been spent diagramming
and putting together the Bay Area Rapid Folders (BARF) newsletters.  Most
of my diagrams in the newsletters, will also be in my book-to-be, so
eventually you all might see them on the bookstore shelves (that is, if I
can ever find a publisher).  I don't know when I'll be done with the
book, but this spring I'm graduating from college, so I should have more
time to work on it.
        Surely I will see some of you at the N.Y. convention in June.
                     Until then,
                          Happy folding,
                                 Jeremy

 P.S.  here are some...  Impractical Origami Jokes for the
Almost Deranged by Jeremy Shafer

 Why did the almost deranged folder unfold
the model step by step?  Because the diagram said to reverse fold.
 Why did the almost deranged folder fold while upside-down?  Because the
diagram said to turn over.
 Why did the almost deranged folder drown
himself?  Because the diagram said, "Sink."

 How many almost deranged
folders does it take to screw in a light bulb?  "That's OK... we'll fold
in the dark."

 Why did the almost deranged folder fold razor sharp paper?
Because he wanted a paper cut.  But then why would he use scissors?
Because he wanted a paper cut.  But then why did he take it all to a
professional?  Because he wanted to pay per cut.

 How long does it take an
almost deranged folder to fold a million cranes?  "I'll get back to you on
that one; he's not finished yet."

 Why did the almost deranged folder fail
American History?  Because for his final paper, he turned in an origami
Mayflower.

 Why didn't the folder want paper for Christmas?  Because it
was the 4th of July.

 How much fish must a folder fold before a folder's
fort is full?  "Well, I'm very sorry, but more on-site data must be
compiled before a worthwhile estimate can be made.  However, it can be
well stated that the the factors at work here are the total volume of open
space in the fort, the size and weight of the paper used, the critical
'full' density constant, and of course, the complexity of the model."

 What did the out-of-line folder say to the purist?  "Can I please have
cuts?"

 How many modular origami folders does it take to make a 20 ft.
high modular sculpture?  "I don't know... I can't manage to get their arms
and legs to stay interlocked, and using superglue would be inhumane and
impure."

 What did the Jewish origami purist sing to the kirogamist (one
who cuts)?  "Let my paper go."  How did the kirogamist respond?  "I'll
agree not to cut if you'll agree not to fold."

 What did Peter Engel
contemplate after completing his book, Folding the Universe, from Angel
fish to Zen?  "What is the sound of one hand folding?"

 So has the
84-year-old grandmaster, Akira Yoshizawa, decided how he will fold in the
future?  Still up in air.

 What did Jeremy Shafer say while testing out
his Nail Clipper diagrams at Convention '93?  "Can someone help me figure
out step 15?"

 What did the British folders say after folding John
Montroll's Chessboard?  "God Save the Queen... from this!"
 What did the
American folders say to cheer up the British folders?  "Jolly Checkmate,
eh?"
 What did the modular folder say after seeing someone complete John
Montroll's Chess Board?  I can make one of those things too!  All I need
is 64 one-inch squares...  and some tape.

 What did the almost deranged
folder say after completing Robert Lang's 'Rock Climber?' "Shall we do it
again?"

 What was Chris Palmer's most repeated phrase while teaching his
Flower Tower at Convention '94?  "Here, let me show you."
 What was BARF
member, Ken Martin's most repeated phrase while attending Chris' class?
"Here, show me."
 What was the question Chris' class most frequently asked
him?  Are you sure you've done this model before?





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 00:47:46 -0300
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.EDU>
Subject: Fuse Books

Hi all -

In answer to those that wanted the ISBN's for the Fuse Books...

_Quick and Easy Origami Boxes_ 0-87040-939-5.  This is an English language
     book,    Wire bound, and it comes in a little box that also has about 100
     sheets of
    paper (really nice stuff, too bright colors, some is double sided, and
    VERY square! (I would really like to know who distributes the paper for
     this    series of books, I have NEVER had problems with the paper mot
     being square)

_Origami Boxes_  Available through OUSA Supply Center... Ooops The Origami Sourc
    The Quick and Easy book has most of the same boxes, with some interesting
    variations. The two books really compliment each other. I think that, from
    the OUSA description, many of the boxes are from other books. This one is
    in English.

_Decoration Boxes_ is the book I was inquiring about tha paper.  It is also
    available from OUSA. ISBN 4-480-87201-9. It is in Japanese... but the dia-
    grams are pretty well done. It just takes some getting used to. It helps th
    t there is a section describing the folds... It is interesting too, you
    tend to pick up on things, like "Page 8"...

I found Quick and Easy Origami Boxes at B. Dalton around Christmas. It is a
     rather
pricey little book, $17.00 plus tax... but it's pretty good. I enjoyed it!

Dee





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 00:54:30 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: new questions, USS Enterprise & spray adhesive

Gabriel Alvarez's address (as posted in the 1995 BOS Membership List) is:

P. Damas 29-4^-D
50008 Zaragoza
SPAIN

the "^" above was meant to be a degree symbol

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 01:36:32 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Suggestion for the FAQ

On Wed, 12 Apr 1995 Jeffrey.z.h.t.o.f.Tolmie@zhflur.ch.ubs.ch said:

>Another Idea would be a Corrections section for listing mistakes in books
that
>nasty inconsiderate publishers made to the perfect proofs sent in by the
>authors ;-)
>
>We could start a thread here along the lines of "Send in your favorite
>misprint"
>or "Send in you favorite tricky spot". The answers would be easy to
collate and
>add to the FAQ?

If we all use somewhat consistant subjects for our e-mailings, we could
probalby come up with a decent errata FAQ. I propose that such a subject
should contain the authors name, book, model name, and most importantly,
the word "errata." It doesn't sound too difficult to create a filter to
group all of the postings containing the word errata into one file. The
user of that file could use a basic text search utility to find out if it
is a silly error that is the source of his folding frustration.

Marc Kirschenbaum

P.S. If more authors would all take the time and follow Lang's lead of
using multiple proofreaders, much of this need could be avoided.





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 01:55:56 -0300
From: Marc Kirschenbaum <marckrsh@pipeline.com>
Subject: Request for Diagrams/Models

OrigamiUSA just receved the following request:

Dear Origami fans,
Every summer we hold an Origami Exhibition in Tokyo and we exhibit our
member's works, traditional models and foreign one too. This yeat we will
hold the 10th Origami Exhibition from 1th to 6th of August in the
department store TERMINA.
We shouls be very much obliged if your member would send us your origami
models till 10th of July.
When you send us your models please enclose it's diagrams and let us know
the tiitle, the name of creator and folder too.
After the exhibition we will send some photographs of the exhibition and
some origami papers to the persons that send us models.

      These models can be sent to:

Fumio Inoue & Kyoko Takao
Tokyo Origami Association
5-4-2-103 Toyo Kotoku Tokyo
135 JAPAN

Happy submissions,

Marc Kirschenbaum





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 08:35:33 -0300
From: Yusri Johan <gs01yyj@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Subject: A thousand cranes apologies (was Re: Fuse Boxes Books)

Hi all,
        A while back ago (actually yesterday), I made a mistake by
refferring to Tomoko Fuse as his rather than her.  I would like to apologize
for making that mistake.  I am not sure how I did that.  It was probably
because I was in a hurry and didn't check for any mistake in my posting.
Thanks to all that have noticed and reminded me of that mistake.

Regards.
--
Yusri Johan (gs01yyj@panther.gsu.edu)
Georgia State University
http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/home.html
Origami Page: http://www2.gsu.edu/~gs01yyj/origami/origami.html





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 10:55:15 -0300
From: FBrafman <fbrafman@SMTPLink.Barnard.Columbia.edu>
Subject: Re[2]: Have you seen this?

Many urban legends have appeared in print.  That doesn't make them true.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Have you seen this?
Author:  origami-l@nstn.ca at Internet-Mail
Date:    4/13/95 5:32 PM

Hey dudes and dudettes!

 In response to Mark K. and Jeannine, the "full contact origami"
letter WAS actually sent as the personal statement of a guy trying
to get into NYU.  He was accepted.
 The original appeared in an old issue of Harper's magazine.
I highly doubt I still have a copy of this, but I'll look.

------------------- Tom "passion fruit plus" Hull





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 12:40:32 -0300
From: Martin Gibbs <mrg1001@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Unfair!

On Thu, 13 Apr 1995 Robert Lang wrote:

> Hi, all! I'm back after a week in sunny England ("sunny" in the sense of
> "cold, overcast and drizzling") and the BOS spring convention ......

Unfair!  We had some nice sunny weather for the convention weekend.  Okay,
so it wasn't exactly California but it wasn't overcast and it didn't
rain!

  Martin Gibbs.





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 15:39:44 -0300
From: Kevin Thorne <C598033@MIZZOU1.missouri.edu>
Subject: Computer stuff

     Just a few computer questions.  How do you get to FAQ?  I've seen
addresses for several "Origami Page"s on www.  I was just wondering what
is on these.  Also, are there any diagrams of complex models available
on the internet.  I remember a note a while back where the person said
they 'downloaded' the diagrams for folding Lang's praying mantis and was
wondering if I could get a hold of it.  Thanks.

Kevin Thorne

c598033@mizzou1.missouri.edu
Columbia, Mo USA





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 15:54:26 -0300
From: Martin Gibbs <mrg1001@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Robert Lang's Ammonite

  I'm a little confused about Robert Lang's Ammonite as published in the
BOS London 25th Anniversary Convention booklet of Autumn 1992.  It may
have been published elsewhere as well.

  First of all, it says use paper of dollar bill proportions - 1:2.360
Surely dollar bills are of proportion sqrt3:4 which is 1:2.309 .  I wasn't
too worried about this - it just seemed strange use three decimal places
and get it apparently wrong.

  My main worry was step 28:

"pull out the trapped layers, smooth out, and tuck one side into the
other" or somesuch words.

  I'm not sure how much trapped paper to pull out and I can't see a way to
tuck one side in.  I've tried just putting one layer over the other but it
doesn't seem to hold together too well.  Any suggestions?

  Martin Gibbs.





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 16:26:43 -0300
From: Tim Rueger <rueger@areaplg2.corp.mot.com>
Subject: clarification of cutting techniques

Hi, All,

This is a bit long.  I was asked to clarify the following:

>>>>> "j" == Jeffrey z h t o f Tolmie <Jeffrey.z.h.t.o.f.Tolmie@zhflur.ch.ubs.ch
     > writes:
>>>>> "tr" == Tim Rueger <rueger@areaplg2.corp.mot.com> writes:
>>>>> "dp" == Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com> writes:

    j> I would like to hear from y'all how you prefer to cut paper and
    j> whether anyone else takes as long as me ;-)

    tr> I use a technique I saw on a home/fixit show that used a
    tr> Pythagorean triangle (sides 3/4/5 ratios) to establish accurate
    tr> right angles for garden plots or deck framing.  I've used this
    tr> more or less by necessity, since I don't have any draftsman's
    tr> tools.  Just mark off three units along one side of an angle,
    tr> four units along another, and the marks should be exactly five
    tr> units apart.  Generally, I like to use as large a triangle as
    tr> possible to minimize measurement errors.

    tr> As for "squaring up" an quadrilateral with four equal sides, I
    tr> use the fact that the diagonals of a square are equal.  This
    tr> also helps me fix up pre-packaged origami papers that aren't
    tr> quite "true".

    dp> I don't have any idea what the procedure you use actually is.
    dp> Let me make a guess, and maybe you can set me straight.  Somehow
    dp> (I'm unclear on this part), you use the 3-4-5 method to square
    dp> up all the corners.  This should also guarantee that the sides
    dp> are parallel.  You now have either a square or a rectangle.  But
    dp> the diagonals of a rectangle are also equal, so that doesn't
    dp> help.  Hmmm... Once you have a rectangle you can just measure
    dp> the sides and cut the pair that are too long to be the same
    dp> length as the short ones?

First, I establish a correct right angle.  Then I measure equal sides
down each leg.  From there, you have two options:

1) From those points, construct two more right angles.  Ideally, this
should guarantee that the two new sides are equal to the first two, and
that the fourth angle is correct.

2) From those points, mark off the same distance used for the first two
sides with a compass (or similar instrument).  The intersection of the
marks should be at the fourth vertex of the square.

Once I've got a first try, I measure each side, and get them all equal.
Then when I've established I have at least a rhombus, I measure the
diagonals.  The diagonals of the *rhombus* are equal when the rhombus is
a square.

I can see how my original message could be confusing.  I meant to make
my second paragraph cited above a completely separate point, for when
you are faced with a rhombus that isn't a square, like some prepackaged
foil papers I've encountered.

I hope this clarifies what I'd mentioned earlier.  Or maybe I've made
matters worse.  I guess just basic geometry and experience will show you
the best way to do it.  :^)

-Tim
--
Tim Rueger             Motorola CCR&D IC Design Laboratory, IL02-2921
Fax  : (708) 538-4593  Internet: rueger@areaplg2.corp.mot.com





Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 17:15:53 -0300
From: casida@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Casida Mark)
Subject: Re: Computer stuff

Hi Kevin (and others),

I am assuming you have not yet been able to access www.  When you are
able to do so, you will find a few sites which have postscript files
containing model diagrams.  I looked at two sites (one is Joseph Woo's
in Vancouver) and they had pretty much the same diagrams.  I think
this means that good news gets around.  The level of difficulty varies
but there are probably too few simple diagrams given the tremendous
potential for attracting new folders offered by the internet.  Besides
Robert Lang's mantus (ca. 100 steps) there is a nice "beetle" folded from
the rectangle you get by cutting a square in half.  My immediate reaction
was "That's not a beetle, that's a bug."  My dad (who is an entomologist)
had an even more specific reaction when I sent him one I'd folded:
"That's definitely a harlequin bug."  The shape is very distinctive.
I know I should be giving credit to the model's creator, but I'm afraid
that the info isn't at my finger tips just now (i.e. I use Mosaic and
find it frightfully slow).  May be someone else would like to add to
my very general comments about the sites or may be remind me of who
designed that great bug?

                                   ... Mark

P.S. A good insect model need not be complex.  I'd be interested in
     hearing about simple but effective insect models you have discovered.

>
>      Just a few computer questions.  How do you get to FAQ?  I've seen
> addresses for several "Origami Page"s on www.  I was just wondering what
> is on these.  Also, are there any diagrams of complex models available
> on the internet.  I remember a note a while back where the person said
> they 'downloaded' the diagrams for folding Lang's praying mantis and was
> wondering if I could get a hold of it.  Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kevin Thorne
>
> c598033@mizzou1.missouri.edu
> Columbia, Mo USA
>

--
*-------------------------------------------------------*
|          Mark E. Casida                               |
|          Chemistry Computing Professional             |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
|          B-605 Pavillon principal                     |
|          Departement de chimie          \_____/       |
|          Universite de Montreal         /\0|0/\       |
|          Case postale 6128              | | | |       |
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Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 17:40:46 -0300
From: jmarcoli@strata.com (John Marcolina)
Subject: Blackdevil Angler

Hello!

Well, after all the recent postings about Lang's Blackdevil Angler, I was
inspired to try my hand. My original response after looking at the picture,
was "Yeah, right. Anything with that many points would certainly give me a
nervous breakdown." But the enthusiasm evident in the postings infected me,
and so I began.

I started with a piece of 81/2 inch kami paper, to get the desired effect
(white teeth!). And as I folded, I was lulled into a false sense of
confidence. "This isn't so bad," I thought. "Maybe I'm really starting to get
the hang of these Lang models, finally." I even made it past some of the
steps that had been stopping other people. Then I came to step 83, and the
train jumped the track. I studied the diagrams for awhile, then tried the
step. "No, it's not happening." Studied some more. Some more. "OK, I can do
this." For maybe 15 minutes I fumbled with the paper, trying to coax the
folds into place. My hands were starting to shake, and my patience wearing
dangerously thin. I tried one last frantic effort, and my paper EXPLODED into
confetti, showering my office with ori-shrapnel (I'm folding on my lunch
break, I find it relaxes me :-).

Fortunately, no one was hurt; it's only paper, after all..

Well, I'd like to hear from the rest of you; did you make it past this step?
Any suggestions on ways to accomplish it? Should I use larger paper? Or
different paper? And are the fold lines in the diagram correct? Should I have
a third arm surgically attached to my body? I'm assuming that since there
have been no postings on this in the last couple of days, you all
successfully completed it, right? ;-)

Well, I'd better get back to work. I need to calm down after my "relaxing
lunch".

John Marcolina
jmarcolina@strata.com
