




From: Sheila Wassmer x3549 <sew@hpfitst1.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Hello
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 90 20:09:57 MDT

        Hi Everyone,

        At the request of Brad Blumenthal, this is a short introduction
        of myself and "why I like origami".  First off, I'm a Product Engineer
        at Hewlett-Packard's Colorado IC Division in Fort Collins, Colorado
        (an hour north of Denver).  I'm not sure when I first became
        interested in origami, but I think I can trace it back to the
        time a nice old man folded a flapping bird for me while my family
        waited for Grand Geyser at Yellowstone National Park.  I think
        I was about 4 years old at the time.  I learned all the standard
        "water bombs", "bug catchers" (salt cellar), etc. in grade school.
        In junior high school, I managed to appropriate a crane from
        one of the students in the "inside crowd" (they jealously guarded
        the figures to maintain the secrecy of the folding method), and
        took it apart carefully enough to figure it out.  Soon after
        that I ran across Robert Harbin's "Secrets of Origami" on a sale
        table at Waldenbooks and learned what the art of folding paper
        was properly named.

        In the years since, I have acquired a fairly extensive origami
        library, although nothing is really "rare".  I lived in Japan
        for a while and managed to find a bunch of good books and
        gorgeous paper there.  I also taught community origami classes
        for libraries, scout and church groups.

        I'm not really a creator of new figures to any great extent, I
        mostly enjoy the satisfaction and relaxation of reconstructing
        existing figures (I hope that doesn't make me too much of a
        heretic).  I prefer the simple, stylized Japanese figures of
        Yoshizawa or Kasahara Kunihiko to the more detailed, realistic
        style of Montroll and others.  I enjoy folding everything, however.

        I don't have access to remote ftp, but I hope to hear from other
        origami enthusiasts through email.

--
        Regards,

        ______  _               _
       /     / //              //
      /       //              //                        Sheila Wassmer
      -----  /___   ____  o  // ____                 sew@hpfitst1.hp.com
   _______/_/   /  /___/ /  /  /   /                       X3549
  /______/ /   <__<_____/__/__<___<__





Date: Thu Aug 23 13:36:07 1990
From: mskelton@wrdis01.af.mil (Skelton)
Subject: annual convention in hiroshima

i'll be going to hiroshima on the 26th august. where and when is the convention ?
i'll try and attend and relay back some info on it.
	-mark (mskelton@wrdis01.af.mil)

>From brad@cs.utexas.edu  Tue Aug 14 08:04:18 1990
>From: brad@cs.utexas.edu (blumenthal @ home with the armadillos)
>Date: Tue, 14 Aug 90 08:04:04 CDT
>To: origami@cs.utexas.edu
>Subject: Japanese origami convention

>So, is anyone on the net heading over to Hiroshima for the annual Japanese
>origami convention?  How about reports on this and other large gatherings?

>Take care,
>brad





Date: Thu, 23 Aug 90 19:30 EST
From: RROOS%SMITH.BITNET@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU
Subject: permissions request

To all past, present, and future users of this news group:

I am the current "editor" (read: collater and mailer) for a
publication called "FOLD."  FOLD is a limited-membership, bi-
monthly magazine consisting of 20 individual newsletters, or
"zines," submitted by the 20 members.  I am writing to request
permission to include occasional items from this newsgroup in
future issues of "FOLD."  Specifically, I would like to reprint
names, addresses, biographies, and news items that appear here
from time to time.

I assume that no one should have any objection to such reprinting
(after all, anyone can read these newsgroup postings), and the
benefits of such a system should be obvious--someone in FOLD might
live in your area, or know someone in your area, or be planning a
visit to your area, or ....  Anyway, it seems to me like a good
way to extend the boundaries of this network to readers who don't
have access to electronic mail.

If you have any objection to having any of your submissions to
"origami@cs.utexas.edu" reproduced and mailed to the twenty mem-
bers of FOLD, please inform me by electronic mail and I will not include
any items from you in the magazine.

And, by the way, FOLD is now in its fifth year.  The "amateur
press alliance" publication system seems to work.  (The science fiction
community has apparently been using this method for years.) For
those of you not familiar with it:  each member composes an article
(often consisting of responses to articles in previous issues),
makes 20 or 25 copies at his or her own expense, and mails these
copies to the "editor."  The editor collates all the submissions,
staples or binds them, together with a cover and table of contents,
and mails the magazine back out to the members.  Everyone pays
dues to cover the cost of the mailing.  It's so simple, I'm sur-
prised more folders haven't decided to band together and try it.

If any vacancies open up in FOLD, I'll post to this newsgroup.
Thanks.

Bob Roos
roos%sophia@cs.umass.edu
rroos@smith.bitnet





Date: Thu, 23 Aug 90 22:14:06 EDT
From: Don_Shall@um.cc.umich.edu
Subject: "FOLD"

Re: Bob Roos's comments & permission request for reprint authority:
BRAVO, Bob!  As a member of FOLD who first heard about this Origami
Bulletin Board IN the FOLD, I heartily second Bob's request.  These
are two of the most unique & interesting modes of exchange & sharing
I've encountered.  Let's keep up our cross-fertilization.

While I'm logged on (and before I leave for a computer-less [and TV
and phone] vacation), a brief report on the Ann Arbor Society 4
Origami (AASO...a.k.a. "Ah.So!").  We have been meeting monthly, on
third thursday nights, since May of 1985.  Our attendence has climbed
steadily from 10-15 a month our first year, to 60-65 a month now.

Last thursday, usually our smallest meeting, we had 50 folks and our
special guest was the amazing Gloria Farison of Cincinatti.  She
came on her way back from a vacation in what we call here, the "U.P."
(Michigan's Upper Peninsula).  She brought an inspiring display of
many of her creations, and a two inch tall stack of folding squares
she had acquired from her local printers, as a gift to the AASO
folders - who were MOST appreciative (it looked a bit like a shark
feeding frenzy).

We invite any & all of you to join us...time your travels for the
third week of the month, and Bingo!  We have been honored by visits
from Robert Lang, John Montroll, deg farrelly, David Shall and many
others from often great distances.  Please do come fold with us.

Over & out, 4 now.

--- End of forwarded message from Don_Shall@um.cc.umich.edu





Date: Mon, 01 Oct 90 19:25 EDT
From: "John A. MONTROLL" <jm151@umail.umd.edu>
Subject: Symmetrical Allocations

Hi! I'm learning how to use email so write to me at

jm151@umail.umd.edu

and we'll talk about origami and anything else!

bye
John Montroll





Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 00:09:56 -0400
From: stiller@cs.bu.edu (Lewis Stiller)

In-Reply-To: The Origami Mailing List's message of Mon, 1 Oct 90 18:28:10 -0500 <9010012328.AA08247@cs.utexas.edu>

>   Date: Mon, 1 Oct 90 18:28:10 -0500
>   From: brad@cs.utexas.edu (The Origami Mailing List)
>   Posted-Date: Mon, 1 Oct 90 18:28:10 -0500
>   Reply-To: origami@cs.utexas.edu
>
>   >From jm151@umail.UMD.EDU  Mon Oct  1 18:27:30 1990
>   Date: Mon, 01 Oct 90 19:25 EDT
>   From: "John A. MONTROLL" <jm151@umail.umd.edu>
>   Subject: Symmetrical Allocations
>   To: origami@cs.utexas.edu
>
>   Hi! I'm learning how to use email so write to me at
>
>   jm151@umail.umd.edu
>
>   and we'll talk about origami and anything else!
>
>   bye
>   John Montroll
>
>
John,
I don't know you, but I just wanted to say that your
book Origami for the Enthusiast gave me many many hours
of pleasure, and is the best book on Origami that
I've ever read. Thanks,
lewis





From: brad@cs.utexas.edu (blumenthal @ home with the armadillos)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 01:14:59 CDT
Subject: apologies and random cruft

First, my sincere apologies for not keeping things up to date on this
list.  In the last three months, I've been to four conferences, three
consulting visits, two job talks, a funeral, two continents, three
countries, and more museums than I've seen in the last four years.

Now I'm in the middle of writing my dissertation, so things have *really*
started to get hectic.

We have several new members, bringing our total number of active members
to about 90.  Sorry about my last post to the list; I'm having severe
synapse lapse these days.

We have some new diagrams from Robert Lang (actually, I've had them
for 'way too long, again, my apologies to Robert and everyone).  They
are in the anonymous ftp area of cs in ~ftp/tmp/mantis.ps.[1-7].  The
peacock dollar bill fold (3 parts) is also up there, as are the
archives (7 parts).  That oughta keep you folks busy for awhile.
Anyone who can't ftp, send me some mail and I'll see what we can do.
Be warned, these things are *big*.  On the order of 50K per file.

BTW, speaking of dissertations, it looks like I may actually finish up
here (nahhhhh), sometime around December or January, so I guess it't time
to solicit volunteers for a successor to run the list.  Anyone out there
with wads of free disk space, a little free time, and a little unix/mail
expertise?

Congrats go to Michael Jenkins who did the deed and got married,
complete with origami decorations at the reception.

Happy folding,
brad





Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 09:10:37 -0400
From: al279@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Judy Drotleff)
Subject: origami list

Hi Brad: Thanks for adding me to the origami list. I'm a freelance
writer who lives in the Cleveland area. I started folding years
ago to amuse my son with simple paper toys, and I've been
an enthusiast ever since. I make most of my own greeting
cards (having given up on the stuff in stores), and I use
origami as a basis for many of them. It's like sending
someone a small gift instead of just a card. I'm always on
the lookout for folds that are especially appropriate for
the Christmas season.
Best wishes, Judy Drotleff





From: Andrew Harker <a.n.harker@stl.stc.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 11:03:49 +0100
Subject: UK folders?

Brad> We have some new diagrams from Robert Lang (actually, I've had them
Brad> for 'way too long, again, my apologies to Robert and everyone).  They
Brad> are in the anonymous ftp area of cs in ~ftp/tmp/mantis.ps.[1-7]. The

Are there any UK subscribers out there who are lucky enough to have
ftp facilities to the US? If there are, I'd appreciate anything
ftp-obtained, forwarded by e-mail so we can at least boast that we're
responsibly economising on net bandwidth!!

Thanks,

Andy Harker.





Date: Tue, 2 Oct 90 21:32 EST
From: Steven Fisk <0004229010@mcimail.com>
Subject: Hello!

  Hello everyone!

    I am new to this list and thought that I would introduce myself
 to you. I am new to the art of Origami and joined this list since
 it seemed like a good way to learn more about the subject. I am
 using MCI Mail to communicate with the Internet and BITNET and am
 calling from Marlton, NJ. Since I'm new to Origami, I'm not sure
 how much I have to offer to the list at the present time. I would be
 interested in knowning of some good books or other resources
 available to learn more about Origami. Any suggestions would
 be very much appreciated!

                                 Steven Fisk
                                 SFisk@MCIMail.COM





Date: Mon, 8 Oct 90 15:22 MET
From: Maarten van Gelder <MAARTEN%RUG.NL@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: MONTROLL_BASES (hint)

Hello John,

   So we meet again here. Remember me? We met in Holland April this year in
Lunteren, but you met a lot of people there. I was the one who wondered if it
was possible to start the base for the Lion (and other models) without just
trial and error.
As for the Lion: I didn't find a way of folding to get the correct base but
the error in the method below is very small.
Two models in "Animal for the enthusiast" start the same way with trial and
error. The Kangaroo base may be folded without any error by the method below.
The base for the Starfish may be folded with a very small error too, as with
the Lion.

Lion base ...................................................................

A -----------------------
  |G                    |       Fold 1:  A to X gives C  1/2  = 0.5
  |  F                  |       Fold 2:  X to C gives D  3/4  = 0.75
  |    \                |       Fold 3:  A to D gives E  3/8  = 0.375
  |      E              |       Fold 4:  A to E gives F  3/16 = 0.1875
  |        \            |       Fold 5:  A to F gives G  3/32 = 0.09375
  |          C          |
  |            \        |       Fold X to G to get diagram 3 of the Lion
  |              \      |
  |                D    |       The error is:  0.00049128 * size
  |                  \  |             size 50 cm:  0.246 mm
  |                    \|           size 20 inch:  0.010 inch
  ----------------------- X

Kangaroo base ...............................................................

              F
K ----------------------- T
  |\       //          /|       Fold 1/2: the diagonals
  |  \   / /         /  |       Fold 3: KD to TD gives F
  |    P  /        /    |       Fold 4: K to D gives M
  |  /   \       /      |       Fold 5: Connect F to M
  |/    /  \   /        |
M |    /     \          |       P is on intersection of FM with diagonal BK
  |   /    /   \        |
  |  /   /       \      |       Fold B to P to get diagram 2 of the Kangaroo
  | /  /           \    |
  |/ /               \  |       Error: 0 (zero!)
  |/                   \|
D ----------------------- B

Starfish base ...............................................................

           F
Z ----------------------- T
  |        |           /|       Fold 1: diagonal XT
  |       /|         /  |       Fold 2: horizontal bookfold KL
  |      | |       /    |       Fold 3: X to B gives M
  |     /  |     /      |       Fold 4: ZX to TX gives F
  |    |    |  /        |       Fold 5: Connect F to M
K |---/-----S/----------| L     S is on intersection of FM with KL
  |  |     /|           |       P is on diagonal XT vertical under S
  |  /   /  |           |
  | /  /     |          |       Fold B to P to get diagram 2 of the Kangaroo
  |/ /       |          |
  |/         |          |       The error is: 0.00047009 * size
X ----------------------- B
             M                        size 50 cm:  0.235 mm
                                    size 20 inch:  0.009 inch

Enlarged view on region around S (S is not the same as the centre C of the
sheet of paper):

              F                           T

                |                     /
                 \                  /
                  |               /
                   \            /
                    |         /
    K   ------------S-------C-----------   L
                    |\    /
                    | | /
                    | /\
                    P   |
                  /      \
                /         |
              /            \

          X                   M

Maarten van Gelder                         MAARTEN@RC.RUG.NL
Lichtboei 210
9732 JK  Groningen
Holland





Date: Thu, 11 Oct 90 18:03 EDT
From: "John A. MONTROLL" <jm151@umail.umd.edu>
Subject: Goed Morgen

Maarten,

Dag! I had such a fun time time in Lunteren even though I had a cold. I
can't believe I am writing to Holland!

I like your method for the bases. I also came up with ways for some, too.
(Ik ok, or is it "ook"). I did the kangaroo  base exactly. I think the starfish
base was
almost the same. For the lion, I did a close approximation and have redrawn
it. I am working on an African animal origami book and will use some of
these new ideas for the bases. Maybe I will send you the methods I use for
the bases-it is too hard for me to draw on this!! I am glad you were able to
work them out.

What is new with origami in The Netherlands?

Bye

John Montroll





Date: Fri, 12 Oct 90 08:58 MET
From: Maarten van Gelder <MAARTEN%RUG.NL@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: MONTROLL_BASES

To Brad:
   You are right. In my description of the starfish base the first diagonal
   should be XT and not DF.

To John:
   Goede morgen. I saw you liked Lunteren. Ik ook!

          Bye,

Maarten van Gelder                         MAARTEN@RC.RUG.NL
Lichtboei 210
9732 JK  Groningen
Holland





Date: Fri, 12 Oct 90 10:42:35 EDT
From: simons@Think.COM
Subject: Introduction

	Hi! In real life I do compiler work at Thinking Machines Corporation
in Cambridge, MA. Enough of that. Now, how I got interested in origami: A friend
gave me a kit with some origami paper and a booklet of very simple diagrams. I
tried it and I liked it. I have since bought a few books with more complicated
diagrams. I have tried two of those diagrams thusfar: an eagle and a bear. Everyone
who has seen the bear has guessed that it is a pig. :-)

	I guess that'll about do it for now...

-josh

simons@think.com
thinking machines corporation
245 first street					tel: 617.876.1111
cambridge, ma  02142-1214				fax: 617.876.1823





From: Sheila Wassmer x3549 <sew@hpfitst1.fc.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Bears and Pigs and Whatnot
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 90 10:53:33 MDT

 I have tried two of those diagrams thusfar: an eagle and a bear. Everyone
> who has seen the bear has guessed that it is a pig. :-)
>
        I had to laugh when I read this as it reminded me of an occasion
        a few months ago here in the office.  One of the engineers here
        is quite big (about 240 lbs of solid muscle), and he often scares
        the test operators to death even though he's quite nice.  So to
        tease him a bit, I folded a Gorilla and left it for him. Everyone
        on the team thought it was great and wanted something, so I started
        to think of what would match each person best (a lion for the
        manager, a monkey for the joker, etc.).  Well, one of the other
        engineers here is also a fairly big fellow (not muscle this time),
        and he always wears a full beard and fairly long hair.  The natural
        association for him was a bear.  So I carefully folded the best
        looking bear I could find in all my books.  Unfortunately, the
        beige colored paper I used looks quite pink under flouresent lights.
        Jim thanked me the next day for his own personal pig (BTW, it seems
        Jim also has a habit of stacking lunch trays at his desk for weeks
        at a time).  To this day I can not convince him I wasn't calling
        him a pig.  Sigh--I guess it's better than my brother who insists
        everything I fold looks like a rat.

        The moral of the story is, never give away your origami unless you
        tell them first what it is!

--
        Regards,

        ______  _               _
       /     / //              //
      /       //              //                        Sheila Wassmer
      -----  /___   ____  o  // ____                 sew@hpfitst1.hp.com
   _______/_/   /  /___/ /  /  /   /                      229-3549
  /______/ /   <__<_____/__/__<___<__





Subject: Question on Robert Lang's Praying Mantis
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 90 15:12:49 EDT
From: Anne R. LaVin <lavin@ATHENA.MIT.EDU>

Well, I did it, I ftp'd the diagrams, and in a fit of over-confidence decided
to try folding the thing.  It was not, shall we say, much of a success.  (This
I attribute entirely to my folding, not the clear and well-done directions.  :)

I do have a few questions for Robert which I thought might be of general
interest to the list:

(1) what paper do you suggest using for the model, especially for a first try?
I started with the 10 inch Niji paper which tore and turned into mush around
the head region...Should I try something larger, and if so, what type of paper
would be good?

(2)  As long as we're on the subject of the head...In the step where you fold
it down in something like a rabbit ear, the thing I came out with was in fact
exactly like a rabbit ear (i.e. the leftmost edge, when folded down, was
completely horizontal, rather than at an angle as in the picture.  I *know* it
says to make the creases so that they're perpendicular to the outside edges,
and that's what I'm pretty sure I did.  But it never did quite look like the
picture.  Am I just spazzing, here, or did I miss something?

And an issue that came to mind while doing the folding: (this should spark some
traffic on the list)  What is it, do you think, that's different about the way
your mind works, Robert, that allows you to create origami?  While I can
almost always fold something from instructions, and even follow along while
I'm folding and think "oh, yeah, this makes sense, *this* will do _that_
later," I cannot create new models.  I read Peter Engel's essays on creating
new origami in "Folding the Universe," and Kunihiko Kasahara has had a few
interesting paragraphs on the subject, and I can appreciate what they say,
intellectually, but at a gut level it just doesn't click.  Is it some innate
skill, is it something you get by practicing, or some combination?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anne R. LaVin                     |"Say, Pooh, why aren't YOU busy?" I said.
lavin@athena.mit.edu              |"Because it's a nice day," said Pooh.
MIT Project Athena                |"Yes, but---"
(617) 253-0115                    |"Why ruin it?" he said.





Date:    Fri, 19 Oct 1990 9:06:30 PDT
From: RLANG@JPLLSI.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Praying Mantis Dgms and Design

Dear Ann,

Glad to hear that someone had a go at the Mantis. For the benefit
of those who still plan to try it, my ever-faithful beta-tester
Ron Levy points out that in step 9, there is a colored triangle at
the upper left that shouldn't be there (fortunately, itUs pretty
obvious that it doesnUt belong). I suppose you could browse
through the PostScript text and edit out the offending lines of
code, but I'm not up to it. (I'll just change the original
drawing.)

Next: you asked what paper to use? This may not be much
consolation, but I find that 10-inch Niji paper is just dandy. In
fact, that was the paper I designed it to be folded from. It's
actually better than foil, because foil tends to split up near the
head. (So does Niji paper, though, if you haven't done the closed
sinks neatly and have weakened the paper. In fact, I only have
about an 85% success rate myself.) All I can say is keep trying,
and be neat.

As goes the step "something like a rabbit ear," I presume you
refer to steps 32-34. Yes, the diagrams are correct; the creases
must be perpendicular to the outside edges (i.e., at 22.5 degrees
to the horizontal, which results in the left edge being at 22.5
degrees as well), and NOT angle bisectors (i.e., at 33.75 degrees,
which results in the left edge being horizontal). You must be
extremely careful with the proportions and careful neat with the
folding at this point to avoid, shall we say, splitting headaches
(rim shot).

I have been asked several times variations on the question, "how
do you come up with these things?" I suspect it is a little
different for every folder. To me, it is a process of engineering;
I have an arsenal of techniques for accomplishing various tasks,
and I string them together in what I hope are good-looking
arrangements. In many cases, a new model merely serves as a
vehicle for exploring a new technique or solving a problem of a
technical kind. For example, the Praying Mantis was the solution
to this problem: Can you do anything useful with a "middle point"?
(A middle point is a point that comes from the interior of the
paper; an "edge point" comes from the edge, a "corner point" comes
from one of the four corners.) One of the useful things you can do
with a corner point is to "split" it, that is, fold it in such a
way as to get two or three smaller points; for the Praying Mantis,
I figured out a way to get four or five smaller points from a
middle point. (John Montroll calls one of the ways of splitting a
corner point a "wing-fold," and it is described in his second
book.)

(The process is shown in steps 32-51, the sequence you were having
trouble with. Although in that model, I sink two of the points out
of the way, the two remaining form the two antennae.)

Exercise for the reader: figure out how to get five points from
the same structure.

As I said, I have a small arsenal of such tactics (and I call this
sort of thing "tactical" folding; figuring out which tactics to
use to get a given model I call "strategic folding"). I have
developed enough tactical folds that I can pretty much come up
with a model of anything within one or two tries, but the result
may not be very pretty (I only publish the pretty ones). This
process of stringing together tactical folds is engineering; the
process of discovering and developing tactics is more like
science. Sometimes I get my tactics by figuring them out myself,
as in the above example; sometimes I get them by raiding other
folders, with John being the most frequent victim since he
introduces by far the most numerous and most novel tactics of any
folder. (Er, raiding other folders' tactics isn't the part that I
call science; figuring out new ones is.)

(I claim that one can assign ratings to folders by how many years
ago John was inventing the sorts of things that they are inventing
now. A MY (Montroll-Year) number of 10 qualifies one as a very
good folder. A MY number of less than 5 is rarified company. Note
how I deftly avoid making enemies by avoiding association of
specific names with numbers.)

As I was saying, I like to raid other folder's tactics, but I
don't really feel comfortable using one of their tactics unless I
can carry it further. Sometimes, though, I find out that (not
suprisingly) the other folder has also carried it further and I
have duplicated their other work. For example, I was fascinated by
John's Dog Base, which is an incredibly elegant solution to the
four-legged animal problem (how do you efficiently get four legs,
a head, and a tail (6 points) from a 4-cornered square?). I saw
that the Dog Base was a special case of a general method for
getting four-legged animals with arbitrary length head, tail,
front, and rear legs. I saw that there was another special case in
which you let the length of the body go to zero while keeping the
head, tail and legs constant, constructed the solution, and found
that I had reinvented John's Giraffe base, which had been
published for nearly ten years. Oh well. But I also figured out
ways of making all sorts of Dog-base-like structures with
intermediate-length and extra-long heads and tails, which I
haven't seen elsewhere, so I got something out of the exercise
after all.

(Interestingly, John once told me that he invented the Giraffe
Base first, and then realized sometime later that you could ADD a
body, and that was how he invented the Dog Base. This was the
exact opposite of the train of thought I used, with the
difference, of course, that he invented my starting point as well
as his.)

At any rate, I would not say that origami design is an innate
skill--you should see some of the garbage I cranked out in my
younger days--but is something I have developed with a lot of
practice. (Don't get me wrong, though; I love the process of
practicing.) Whenever I see a new model, I try to figure out (1)
what the overall structure is, and (2) why the designer did what
he did: what problems was he solving? Peter Engel describes in his
book looking for crease patterns that provide structures for
models of interest; I go at it more directly, trying to solve a
particular problem or set of problems. "How many points can I get
out of a single sheet of paper?"=Sea Urchin. "How can I make a
spiral shell using only a single point for the spiral?"=Whelk.
"How can I add lots of points to the rim of the Whelk?"=Spider
Conch and Murex. "How many teeth can I cram into a fish's
mouth?"=Blackdevil Angler. And so forth.

The only "innate" ability I have that seems to contribute to my
folding is that I am fairly adept with algebra and geometry, and
can figure things out by math when I can't visualize it in my
mind. I usually sketch out the crease pattern for a model before I
start folding, and sometimes have to do some calculations to find
the starting reference points. (Hence the prevalence of wierd
rectangle proportions and 90/7 degree angles in "Complete Book of
Origami.S Nowadays, I stick to squares and develop folding methods
to get all proportions, as in the Mantis.)

Which leads me to an aside: Do you know the binary method for
getting any proportion by folding? To divide an edge (or diagonal)
of a square into any fraction, write the fraction in binary, e.g.,
Sqrt(2)/2 = 0.10110101000001...  . Then truncate it to N digits
for a relative error of 2^-N. (If you truncate it just before a
run of zeros or ones, you get the benefit of all those zeros or
ones for free; to use the above example, .10110101 is accurate to
within 2^-13). Then, starting from the RIGHT:

For each 1, fold the top down to the last crease made (if the
first digit is a 1, fold the top down to the bottom).

For each 0, fold the bottom up to the last crease made (if the
first digit is a 0, fold the bottom up to the top.)

The last crease you make will divide the paper in the desired
proportion.

As John is also eavesdropping on this BBS, I'm sure he, too, will
have something to contribute on this subject. John?

I close with a design exercise for anyone whoUs interested in
trying my approach: figuring out why someone does what he does. In
the Mantis, the initial geometry is set by a single requirement;
in step 7, the mountain fold line (which indicates a sink fold)
must run from the top corner to the lower left corner of the
trapezoidal shape; it must also bisect the top corner.

1) From this requirement, figure out a formula for the correct
proportions for the valley fold in step 3.

2) When you have done that, figure out a formula for the
proportion you get by doing steps 1 and 2. (Your numbers will
differ by about 1%.)

3) Use the binary method I described above to get a folding
sequence accurate to less than 1%.

Your humble servant,

Robert J. Lang





Date: Fri, 19 Oct 90 17:00:52 -0500
From: a.k.a. Chri <lishka@uwslh.slh.wisc.edu>
Subject: Origami Paper

The recent discussions of how people are developing new figures is
really fascinating.  I have never tried it myself, but I think I will
this Christmas when I become an origami-fanatic in order to decorate
my tree.

The actual purpose behind this message is to try to find a good source
of origami paper.  The "Niji" company has been mentioned a lot, so I
assume that many people are using origami paper produced by them.  My
problem is that I have used Niji paper (two different sizes) in the
past year or two, and it invariably is not square!  Just trying to
fold a standard bird-base with my Niji paper (either size) proves
this.  I don't know if I ended up with a bad stock, or if Niji quality
control isn't that high.  I have folded about 100 sheets of Niji paper
in the past year or two (while working on compound geometric shapes),
so I feel I have given the Niji paper a fair chance.

Out of frustation (and to broaden my stock of origami paper), I picked
up some non-Niji paper at a local store.  (The paper is at home, so I
am not sure of the name of the company, although "Sakura" rings a
bell.) This stuff was of a much higher quality, printed with beautiful
patterns, and more expensive.  However, every sheet that I have folded
has been perfectly square.  I also have some foil paper (again,
non-Niji) that is square.

Specifically, I am looking for paper that meets the following rough set of
specifications:

	(1) Square ;-)

	(2) Both standard weight and thin paper (for those super-complex
	    figures that the origami-masters come up with to torture
	    less practiced origami-students like myself ;-)
	
	(3) Available in different sizes

	(4) Available in different prices (i.e. cheap stuff for
	    experimenting and learning, good stuff for the final
	    figures).

I look forward to any recommendations you can provide.  Also, I would
be willing to compile an informal sampling of the different origami
paper that others use.  Just email me a description of what kind of
paper you use, and for which purpose you use it.  My email addresses
are listed in my .signature at the end.

Thanks-in-advance for any help you can provide!

						.oO Chris Oo.

Christopher Lishka 608-262-4485  "Dad, don't give in to mob mentality!"
Wisconsin State Lab. of Hygiene                                -- Bart Simpson
   lishka@uwslh.slh.wisc.edu     "I'm not, Son.  I'm jumping on the bandwagon."
   uunet!uwvax!uwslh!lishka                                    -- Homer Simpson





Date: Fri, 19 Oct 90 17:00:52 -0500
From: a.k.a. Chri <lishka@uwslh.slh.wisc.edu>
Subject: Origami Paper

The recent discussions of how people are developing new figures is
really fascinating.  I have never tried it myself, but I think I will
this Christmas when I become an origami-fanatic in order to decorate
my tree.

The actual purpose behind this message is to try to find a good source
of origami paper.  The "Niji" company has been mentioned a lot, so I
assume that many people are using origami paper produced by them.  My
problem is that I have used Niji paper (two different sizes) in the
past year or two, and it invariably is not square!  Just trying to
fold a standard bird-base with my Niji paper (either size) proves
this.  I don't know if I ended up with a bad stock, or if Niji quality
control isn't that high.  I have folded about 100 sheets of Niji paper
in the past year or two (while working on compound geometric shapes),
so I feel I have given the Niji paper a fair chance.

Out of frustation (and to broaden my stock of origami paper), I picked
up some non-Niji paper at a local store.  (The paper is at home, so I
am not sure of the name of the company, although "Sakura" rings a
bell.) This stuff was of a much higher quality, printed with beautiful
patterns, and more expensive.  However, every sheet that I have folded
has been perfectly square.  I also have some foil paper (again,
non-Niji) that is square.

Specifically, I am looking for paper that meets the following rough set of
specifications:

	(1) Square ;-)

	(2) Both standard weight and thin paper (for those super-complex
	    figures that the origami-masters come up with to torture
	    less practiced origami-students like myself ;-)
	
	(3) Available in different sizes

	(4) Available in different prices (i.e. cheap stuff for
	    experimenting and learning, good stuff for the final
	    figures).

I look forward to any recommendations you can provide.  Also, I would
be willing to compile an informal sampling of the different origami
paper that others use.  Just email me a description of what kind of
paper you use, and for which purpose you use it.  My email addresses
are listed in my .signature at the end.

Thanks-in-advance for any help you can provide!

						.oO Chris Oo.

Christopher Lishka 608-262-4485  "Dad, don't give in to mob mentality!"
Wisconsin State Lab. of Hygiene                                -- Bart Simpson
   lishka@uwslh.slh.wisc.edu     "I'm not, Son.  I'm jumping on the bandwagon."
   uunet!uwvax!uwslh!lishka                                    -- Homer Simpson





Date:    Fri, 19 Oct 1990 16:31:54 PDT
From: RLANG@JPLLSI.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Origami Paper

I will confirm Christopher Lisha's observation that Niji paper is frequently
not square. Their quality control is erratic, not uniformly bad, because I
have gotten both good and bad packs. When I am folding a demanding model,
I use a carpenter's metal square and cut my own paper (or shave off an edge
of Niji paper).

The best origami paper I have found for general-purpose folding that is
widely available is Hallmark foil wrapping paper, because it is thin and tough.
It is also expensive as all get-out, but I have found large sheets of
comparable gold and silver foil at my local art store. Of course, all of this
must be cut to shape.

The best wet-folding paper I have found is calligraphy parchment, available
from most artist's supply stores. However, the color selection is pretty
much limited to pastels, primarily beige.

When I was a wee lad, I folded from squares cut from pads of obsolete forms
that I could get for free from several businesses. The paper was okay for
most forms, great if they were onionskin or manifold forms, and the price was
right.

Robert J. Lang





Date: Sat, 20 Oct 90 14:55 EDT
From: TCHULL%AMHERST.BITNET@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU
Subject: Hi, everyboby!

Hello, hello, hello. My name is Tom Hull, and I'm new to this email origami
deal. Brad suggested that I give a bio., so here it is: I'm a SWM, 5'10", of
age 20. Turn ons: origami, math, frisbee, and supernatural horror. Turn offs:
roadside kills, terrorists, and Donald Trump. I've been doin' 'gami since I
was a 8 year old wippersnapper. I've created some stuff: a flying pig, a
dragon, a human, and 15 masks being the only things I'm really proud of.
My recent endevor has been exploring pattern folding- folding some pattern
of creases into the paper to make strange objects. I'm also trying to follow
the math-origami relationships that the Japanese mathematician Kawasaki has
been publishing. Oh, I forgot to mention that I'm a student at Hampshire
College and a member of the Amherst Valley Folders regional group.

     About what Chris mentioned- I've never gotten a bad batch of paper from
Niji. Mabey I'm just lucky. However, they do seem to be the main distributor
of origami paper in the USA, so it's not like you have many options for buying
square paper. However, you can order paper from the FOCA, and that's almost
guaranteed to be perfect squares. Yeah, I know, ordering is a drag though.
Suggestion- recycle any paper you see lying around. If you're a college
student, you probably get tons of junk mail, mostly 8(1/2)x11. Save it
for scrap. You do have to cut it, but if you have access to a paper cutter
you can do several sheets at once easily. Another option is to look for
square stationary/memo pad paper. Sometimes you can find big stacks of squares
that are intended for inter-office memo communication. The size tends to be
small, but it's great for modulars and tends to come in kinky colors.
    Bye now, y'all!               ------Thomas Hull





Date: Thu, 25 Oct 90 15:33 PDT
From: MTDOLL@u.washington.edu
Subject: Intro

Hello folding fanatics.
It was suggested that introduce myself as a new listee by way of
short bio.  I am a Montana native recently transplanted to Seattle
to finish my degrees, and hanging in there.  I'd rather be flying
a kite, or horseback riding, or sketching, or writing songs, or any
number of other fun, relaxing hobbies I enjoy.  I have been an origami
fan for about 4 years, tho I havn't spent enough time at it to master
it, or create any 'new' creatures of paper.  How long have you folks
been at this to become as good as it sounds like you are??

In regards to the recent paper talk:: You might check out your nearest
college/university bookstore.  I found that the UofW bookstore has an
incredible (to me) array of sizes, colors & prints - all square!  I
regret that I do not recall the manufacturer at this time.

Now maybe you can help me with a problem I've run into [which almost,
at one time, eliminated my interest in origami].  I tend to make gifts
of my artwork (drawings, paintings, origami etc.) and all but origami
have been given happy homes.  When people receive an origami creation
they think its nice, lovely, unique,....and disposable.  "Well, it
IS just paper..." I've heard.  This bothers me a great deal.  Has anyone
else run into this?  Any help is good help.

To life, to laughter, to love - may they never be mutually exclusive!
Samantha M.R.





From: brad@cs.utexas.edu (blumenthal @ home with the armadillos)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 90 11:23:02 CDT
Subject: Disposable origami

Um, you mean it's *not* just disposable art?  Ooops.  :-)  Actually, I tell
poeple that it is most of the time, even some of the fairly elaborate stuff
that takes a couple of hours.  Often as not, I do origami during boring
lectures at conferences and such, so there's lots of time.  I'm often a bit
embarassed to see people pick up toss-away stuff that I've done in this
way.

Seriously, though, I've found that if an origami gift is given with enough
(for want of a better word) pomp, and shows that some effort has been made
to make it permanent, then people are as unlikely to throw it away as any
other present.  "Pomp" includes things like putting it in a box and wrapping
it.  Making it permanent means coating it with spray acrylic or wax or
whatever to make it stiff, and giving some appropriate way to display it
as well (e.g. giving a vase with origami flowers, a glass box with other
stuff, hanging string and hardware with kusudama balls, etc).

Take care,
brad





Date:    Fri, 26 Oct 1990 9:28:46 PDT
From: RLANG@JPLLSI.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Disposable diagrams

...cont'd (hit the wrong key!)
As I was saying, I don't care to see something I've spent a long time on
get tossed out with the trash. I remedy this problem in two ways:

First, I don't give origami away until someone asks me for it, which indicates
to me that they really want it. Obviously, if I saddle someone with a white
elephant (even a paper one), they'll toss it at the first opportunity.

Secondly, I sell models for outrageously high prices. I suspect that when a
person has paid $200 for a folded model, they are less likely to throw it
away.

Of course, there is also a burden on us as folders. As you have no doubt
observed, the majority of models, when folded from conventional paper, show
their age rather quickly. They start spreading out, or fading, or getting
wrinkled just by being moved, or get bent out of shape, and really need to
be carefully babied to stay looking good. Can you blame someone for disposing
of a model that is mushy and tattered? If we as folders expect the recipients
of our work to treasure them, then we must make sure that we are folding
treasures, not trinkets. I address this issue by wet-folding, which gives
a sturdy, robust, long-lived model; I use paper that won't fade under ordinary
lighting; and I try to fold impressive models.

Robert J. Lang





Date:    Fri, 26 Oct 1990 9:01:01 PDT
From: RLANG@JPLLSI.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Disposable origami

I, too, have encountered this phenomenon, that people consider origami to
be disposable. This does not bother me if it is a flapping bird I whipped
out in two minutes, but when I have spent a long time wet-folding something,
I am somewhat more disappointed





Date: Sat, 27 Oct 90 09:57:00 -0400
From: al279@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Judy Drotleff)
Subject: Re: Disposable origami

I think the reason some non-enthusiasts don't appreciate
origami is the same reason that attracted those of us
who love to fold--the (apparent) simplicity of the art.
They'll look at a finished work and think, "It's just
a piece of paper." We'll look at a piece of paper and
think, "This could be a star, or a giraffe, or a flower."
Part of the appeal of origami for me is the idea of being
able to create "something" from (almost) nothing. It's
practically magical. I, too, have been disappointed by people
who didn't appreciate my work; but when this happens, my
first thought about the insensitive person is, "How
unfortunate you are to have such a limited imagination."

Judy Drotleff
Cleveland, Ohio





Date: Sat, 27 Oct 90 11:31:27 -0500
From: a.k.a. Chri <lishka@uwslh.slh.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Disposable Origami & Re: Origami Paper

Re: Origami Paper

Well, it looks like my experiences with Niji paper not being square
were confirmed.  It also seems that Niji is the paper company of
choice (most likely due to availability).  I will keep looking for
other companies (I know that there is at least one other out there
that I have some paper from, but I do not have the name recorded
anywhere).

One question then: how does one "square" origami paper without
performing a triangular fold and then cutting?  It seems that enough
people are doing this, so there must be some simple, quick, and
effective method.

Re: Disposable Origami

Hmmm.  Since I like to do complex folds (which sometimes take me many
hours), I usually save my work.  The more successful folds I display
around the house, while the average ones I throw in the the "Christmas
ornament" box for the years that Andria and I get really large trees.
The really ugly figures I throw out, or experiment on.

As for others keeping origami gifts, it likely depends on how much
effort I put into the fold.  Although I usually fold complex figures
for myself, I will occasionally give them to others, and I think they
are usually kept.  I will sometimes throw a figure in with a card or
present.  I usually do not expect others to keep figures which I have
not put that much effort into; rather, I include them in a card as
more of a personal touch.

I agree with a previous message that basically said that if you want
someone to save your work, you must put a good deal of time and
expertise into it.  I take this as meaning: (a) use good paper; (b)
fold complex and interesting figures; (c) spend some time on the
folds; (d) practice the figures you want kept!

Point (d) is obvious.  The better you are, the better the results will
be!  Besides being able to do complex folds, an important area to
focus on is keeping the folds crisp and accurate.  Many times this
will make all of the difference between a crane beak that looks
beautiful, and one that looks "mushy."

Point (c) is important: a crane that you spend half an hour on will
look better than a crane that is folded in five minutes.  I have
noticed that figures created by other people who don't do exact folds
(from lack of skill or lack of interest) do not look as good.  I am a
fanatic about perfect folds (hence my concerns about square paper),
and I usually spend more time doing all folds (even simple ones) than
friends I have seen.  However, I think my results come out better.
One important thing to keep in mind is to make sure the first folds
are well done: errors made early tend to mushroom into real problems
later on.

Point (b) is also obvious: easy stuff, like cranes and balloons, is
less likely to be kept.  I find that the visually interesting figures
are usually the ones that take the longest.  I have spent hours on
single figures, and the results are usually much nicer.  I don't want
to imply that simple figures are not worth giving.  To the contrary, I
have a few simple figures memorized in the event that I need to fold
something "on the spot," typically for a child (I find that children
are fascinated with origami figures!).  However, the figures that
adults tend to keep are the ones that look like much work went into
them, and that they could not (easily) fold themselves.

Finally, I think (a) is often overlooked.  Some of the more interesting
comments I have received are on the papers I have used.  If you want
to create a figure that really stands out, put some consideration into
what kind of paper you use.  Printed papers look really nice, as do
foils (although folds in foil have to be accurate, or else one gets a
"crinkly" effect).  The quality of the the paper stock has an overall
effect as well.  Also, match the paper to the figure.  Rounded
figures usually look better with rounded patterns; geometric figures
with geometric patterns.  Example: a dragon folded from pink paper
with green butterflies on it looks worse than one folded from green
foil, or red paper with scale-like patterns (in my humble opinion).

Hmmm.  This got a little long ;-) I'll get down off my soapbox now.  I
welcome comments!

Re: what draws origami fanatics to the craft

I agree with a previous message that stated it is the ability to
create a recognizable (and many times beautiful) figure out of a
simple piece of paper.  Also, I like the fact that the "tools" needed
are so elementary: knowledge of folding techniques, a piece of paper,
a flat surface, and my hands.

Oddly enough, I am drawn to other "crafts" or "arts" because of the
potential for creating complex and beautiful results out of something
beginnings.  This is actually one of the reasons I am a computer
programmer.

					.oO Chris Oo.





From: andataco!vann@ucsd.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 90 18:40:58 PDT
Subject: keepable origami

Thank you, Judy and Chris.

I have found that simple butterflies that I have made at work
have been displayed for over a year. A very simple bowl made from
simulated italian marble was the envy of a department. I found out
because I overheard a comment of someone expressing the hope to
be able to have one.

In the cases where the objects have been treasured, the items were
made of exceptional papers and folded carefully.

an idea for paper... I have made Fuse octagon boxes with 8 identical
calendar pictures (example 8 identical pictures of a snow scene). This
creates a sense of a kaleidoscope inside and out. Delightful!

observation: the simple bowl mentioned above.... I thought that I had
invented it since I had come to the design on my own two years ago.
This summer I bought "FIORI IN ORIGAMI" by Guido Gazzera in Milan, 1986.
There it was on page 62, called a flower. The angles of the base were
different but without a doubt Guido had published my bowl before I had
found it.

V'Ann
San Diego





Date: Mon, 29 Oct 90 09:40:18 EST
From: roanoke!dwm@fibercom.com (David W. Minnich)
Subject: Wet-folding

Robert J. Lang writes...
>Of course, there is also a burden on us as folders. As you have no doubt
>observed, the majority of models, when folded from conventional paper, show
>their age rather quickly. They start spreading out, or fading, or getting
>wrinkled just by being moved, or get bent out of shape, and really need to
>be carefully babied to stay looking good. Can you blame someone for disposing
>of a model that is mushy and tattered? If we as folders expect the recipients
>of our work to treasure them, then we must make sure that we are folding
>treasures, not trinkets. I address this issue by wet-folding, which gives
>a sturdy, robust, long-lived model; I use paper that won't fade under ordinary
>lighting; and I try to fold impressive models.

Wet-folding?  Now there's a technique I haven't used before.  Tell me more
please.

On another note... I'm looking for some ideas for making origami greenery
to use in arranging bouquets of origami flowers.  This would include methods
of making leaves to be attached to the same stem as the flower, as well as
anything else (hmm... how would you fold baby's breath? :^)

--dave
--
David W. Minnich               INTERNET: dwm@fibercom.com
FiberCom, Inc.                 UUCP: ...!uunet!fibercom!dwm
P.O. Box 11966                 PHONE: (703) 342-6700, (800) 423-1183 ext. 347
Roanoke, VA  24022-1966        FAX: (703) 342-5961





Date:    Mon, 29 Oct 1990 9:48:07 PST
From: RLANG@JPLLSI.JPL.NASA.GOV
Subject: Wet Folding

David,

Wet folding is folding in which you use a thick paper and dampen it slightly
before folding to make it pliable. Wet-folded models have a soft, slightly
rounded look, and when the paper dries (depending on the type of paper you
use), it can vary from stiff to rock-hard. So, unlike foil models, wet-folded
models are not fragile. The best wet-folding paper I have found is
calligraphy parchment, but many heavy papers are possible. You can experiment
around to find your favorite. Both Roz Joyce and I have written more extensively
on wet-folding, her in the FOCA newsletter, I in the BOS newsletter, and you
can look up our articles if you'd like more info. But the easiest thing to do
is just to buy some paper and go to work. The only "trick" is how wet to get
the paper; you want it leathery, not soggy, so it doesn't get fuzzy at creases.
I use a damp cloth to dampen the paper; others use a sponge or a spray bottle.
Nearly all my display models are wet-folded nowadays, and I have kept models
in pristine shape for many years that have been wet-folded. It's a lot of
fun, and has an interesting appearance; try it!

Robert J. Lang





Date: Mon, 29 Oct 90 14:56:42 EST
From: elsa@GANDALF.LL.MIT.EDU (Elsa Chen)
Subject: been out of touch, requesting help, misc.

Could someone please send me the phone number of the FOCA office and
what times somone would be there to answer the phone? They have 2
checks I wrote to pay for the last convention and it doesn't look as
if they've deposited them in their account yet. I would like them to
get their money; the con was certainly worth at least that. Also, I've
moved and need to put in my change of address so I can receive FOCA
mail (such as ORIGAMI SEA LIFE, which I ordered at the con - is it out
yet? descriptions? opinions? - and info on the next con).

Wet folding sounds interesting but messy. Is any glue used? I've got
to try this sometime; I'm sorry I missed this at the convention.

I saw a beautiful hardcover origami book put together by Gay Merrill
Gross on the sale table at Paperback Booksmith in Harvard Square this
weekend. It's kind of thin, and has a brown cover with a vase or
something on it. On glancing through it the models seemed to be simple
to intermediate, not rehashes of classic Japanese figures but more
along the lines of what one might find in a Friends' program - rings,
a page on earrings, a bowl, other stuff that you wouldn't find in your
garden variety "starter" level origami book. (I could use diagrams for
an origami bowl - I've had to make cups enough times!) Copyright date
is 1990, and I've only seen it at this bookstore so far. Did it just
come out very recently? If so, I wonder why it's on the sale table
instead of with the new books. The "sale" price is ~$9. If it weren't
on sale, I wonder how much it would be. Can anyone tell me more about
this book?  If it's going to disappear into oblivion I'd like to grab
a copy first.

Elsa





Date: Mon, 29 Oct 90 15:31:04 -0500
From: donnald@aplpy.jhuapl.edu (Creighton Donnald)

Re: The question of origami greenery

My favorite creation is a rose which is constructed out of four salt cellar
folds of different sizes.  The instructions call for a calyx and several
leaves.  The calyx is made out of a flattened bird base to provide four
equally spaced leaves.  The stem leaves are folded from a fish base (I think).
The original instructions called for the leaves to be held to a knitting
needle stem by wrapped strips of paper.  However, I have since scaled down the
model to the point where I use a straightened jumbo paper clip for the stem and
green electrical tape to hold the leaves on.

Besides green tape (available at an office supply store), I have seen models
which use green tissue paper that has been balled or rolled up to create a
green base in which to arrange flowers.

I don't have the references currently at my desk, but if anyone is interested,
I can get them.

-Creig Donnald
 donnald@aplpy.jhuapl.edu
