




Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 11:27:11 -0400
From: lisaa@gsa-orsp.crown.nwu.edu (Lisa Abel)
Subject: Re: Paper Sources

Anne,
You wrote:
>
>I tried an interesting backcoating experiment the other night.

What type of fixative and process do you use to backcoat fabric with paper?
Have you ever tried using liquid starch and an iron to stiffen fabric? I
used to do that with my mom to make drapery crafts; I don't know how the
starch would hold up under multiple folds. (Technique: Basically, you spray
the fabric with the liquid starch from a nonaerosol spray bottle and iron
it.)

Also, does anyone know of a **nontoxic**, smooth-coating varnish of sorts
that can be applied to origami figures to strengthen them? I've tried the
acrylic spray, but I don't want to be susceptible to the multiple types of
cancers noted on the warning label and I can't work with paper when I have
to keep all the windows open and a fan going! The milky-type decoupage
fluids leave streaks when you brush them on, so I'd like to find some type
of dip or spray (**nonaerosol**).

Thanks,
Lisa
_____________________________________________________________

Do a common thing in an uncommon way. -- Booker T. Washington





Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 13:20:35 -0400
From: Onder Gurkan <gurkan@bilkent.edu.tr>
Subject: Basic Design and Origami

Hello everyone,

My name is Onder Gurkan, calling from Ankara/Turkiye.
Im instructing Basic Design Courses in Bilkent University, Graphic Design
department as an assistant.

I have some questions,( I know some of them should be asked and answered
but sorry :)))   )

- Does anyone know about Joseph Albers courses depended on origami in
Bauhaus ?

- Due to my researches, there is no book about origami in Turkey, so are
there any documents on any FTP sites or elsewhere that I can reach.

- Does anyone know something about Basic Design and origami ?

- Are there any documents ( or lists of books) about the philosophy and
the basics of origami ?

- Are there any software that help people to learn about the basics of
origami ?

Thank you all and please forgive me about my thousand-times-asked
questions ... :)

ONDER, from Turkiye





Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 14:17:38 -0400
From: storm@nas.nasa.gov (Steve Storm)
Subject: Re: Paper Sources

> Their catalog also lists a fabric "origami ornaments pattern" for $7.50.
> "Gives instructions, suggestions for use and supply list for four ornaments:
> Angel, Crane, Box with top, and two-piece ornament."  The accompanying color
> photo is pretty impressive: the folds are crisp and corners are sharp.  I'm
> thinking of getting this just to see whether they used backcoating or some
> other method of stiffening the fabric.  Has anyone else seen this?  Has
> anyone else experimented with fabric successfully?  What methods are being
> used?
>
> Anne
>

My wife saw the fabric origami book in one of her catalogs.  (She gets tons
of them.  Sometimes there are interesting items among all the schlock.)
She ordered it for me, and I will review it for the list if it ever shows
up.  (And if no one else reviews it beforehand)  I'm not an expert folder, so
if it requires advanced techniques, I'll be in over my head, but I can give
the list an idea of what's in the book.

As I was typing, my wife called.  (Synchronicity!)  The book is the same one
from the same quilting catalog!!

-storm





Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 14:28:16 -0400
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject: cloth folding

Dee here-
I've been reading with interest about the cloth folding.  One thing I have never
tried is the fabric stiffeners (Stiffy is one brand name) I would think that
it would be similar to wet-folding.  Has anyone experimented with it?





Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 15:02:50 -0400
From: Sheldon Ackerman <ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org>
Subject: Peter Engel's Valentine

I have always had a problem with the model of the valentine found in Peter
Engel's _Folding the Universe_. I can complete the model and get oohs and
aahs, but I would like to complete it the way it is diagrammed.

Step 22 is no big deal. Step 23 seems to be no big deal but has had me stuck
when ever I try this model. Are Engel's written directions wrong, is the
diagramming wrong, or am I wrong :-)
--
Sheldon Ackerman
ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
ackerman@amanda.dorsai.org
sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu





Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 17:52:13 -0400
From: sheamus@netcom.com (James Carroll)
Subject: Varnish

>
> Also, does anyone know of a **nontoxic**, smooth-coating varnish of sorts
> that can be applied to origami figures to strengthen them? I've tried the
> acrylic spray, but I don't want to be susceptible to the multiple types of
> cancers noted on the warning label and I can't work with paper when I have
> to keep all the windows open and a fan going! The milky-type decoupage
> fluids leave streaks when you brush them on, so I'd like to find some type
> of dip or spray (**nonaerosol**).
>
> Thanks,
> Lisa

Lisa,

Just today I started experimenting with shellac. It goes on without
streaks, dries quickly and is non toxic once the liquid dries. The
shellac stiffens the paper but leaves it flexible. I am using amber
shellac (I'm doing my research at work!), but the can says there
is a clear type. And the shellac leaves a semi matte finish, not
glossy at all.

James Carroll
sheamus@netcom.com





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 01:30:00 -0400
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject: Tom Hull in Science News

Hey there-

Has anyone besides me seen the article about Thomas Hull in the latest issue
of _Science News_?  (IVolume 147, Issue 3 - it has a picture of race horses
on it).  On page 44 there is a very interesting article about Mr. Hull and how
he has used his knowledge of graph theory to prove several mathematicla
theorems, expand on ideas from Japan and put into mathematical form "results
known to origamists."  Most important though :-) is using graph theory to
create several new origami models!

All I know is there is a really cool tessalated square that they printed the
crease pattern for and it is really neat once you figure out how to collapse
the thing!

Congratulations Tom!

   -Dee





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 01:49:28 -0400
From: Kevin Thorne <C598033@MIZZOU1.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

     I have completed this model several times and think I might know what
your problem is.  For step 22 you spread the top of the model and valley
fold the top and bottom 1/3 of the way to the center.  For 23, the top
2 sections of loose paper are just valley folded to the center line.  But,
the bottom 2 flaps are only mountain folded on the 1/3 section folded before.
underneath that flap and where it doesn't cover, it is valley-folded
and the entire portion that shows the arrows on it is tucked inside.
This is actually a modified version of an inside-reverse fold.  So at step
24, the top has 2 loose flaps folded down put the bottom has 2 pockets
where the flaps can be tucked in.
     I hope this clears things up for you.  If not, just write to me and
I'll try to show what part of the previous description wasn't clear enough.

             Kevin





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 07:18:46 -0400
From: Goran Konjevod <gorank@math.hr>
Subject: book orders from overseas

  I'm sorry if this has been asked too many times already; what would
be the simplest (that is the fastest least expensive) way to get
books like Origami for the Connoisseur and Origami Sea Life for
someone like me, living in Croatia. Who should I order the books from?
(OUSA or the British OS? is there anything closer---like, in
Southern Europe; because the people at a local bookshop
that accepts orders for foreign books told me they would have to
do it through another dealer in the USA and it would take 4 months and
about three times more money than listed.)

  Thanks in advance (by the way of introduction, I'm a senior math student
at the Univ. of Zagreb here (in Zagreb) and have been a lurker on this
list for some time now)
                               Goran Konjevod





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 07:26:25 -0400
From: a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com
Subject: Re: Paper Sources

storm - we're all looking forward to your review of the fabric origami book!
- Anne





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 07:27:02 -0400
From: a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com
Subject: Re: Paper Sources

Lisa (and others) - I used a spray adhesive to attach fabric, foil, and
tissue to each other.  Aside from the adhesive's tendency to sputter, and
the fact that it has a nasty smell, it worked fine.

I've worked with the various other fabric stiffeners that people mentioned,
again in non-origami projects, and my impression of them for folding was not
favorable.  Spray starch, in my opinion, is awful for everything.  Old-
fashioned powdered starch used like they did in the old days requires an
elaborate procedure - I cooked mine in a large pot on the stove - and leaves
the fabric sopping wet.  Even after squeezing it out (I was starching lace),
you still have a soggy, hard to handle, wet rag.  And you thought wet-folded
paper was hard to handle! (OTOH, at least the fabric stays square, not
rectangular).  Fabric stiffeners (in my experience) are a form of dilute
white glue, (like Elmer's Glue) and share the "sog" problem.  The result is
more rigid than the powdered starch once it's dry, but in both cases, the
project has to be fully supported while drying for hours.  With lace, you
pin it flat on a board of some sort.  I like powdered starch better, but
it's hard to find.

I would not want to discourage anyone from experimenting, however.  My
experience was not all that extensive.  Maybe a modification of the soaking
techniques could be discovered.  I'd encourage everyone to report in!

Anne





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 09:20:58 -0400
From: Mark Morden <marmonk@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

On Thu, 26 Jan 1995, Sheldon Ackerman wrote:

> I have always had a problem with the model of the valentine found in Peter
> Engel's _Folding the Universe_. I can complete the model and get oohs and
> aahs, but I would like to complete it the way it is diagrammed.
>
> Step 22 is no big deal. Step 23 seems to be no big deal but has had me stuck
> when ever I try this model. Are Engel's written directions wrong, is the
> diagramming wrong, or am I wrong :-)
> --
> Sheldon Ackerman
> ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
> ackerman@amanda.dorsai.org
> sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu
>
What type of paper do you use for this model.  I have tried to make it a
few times, but the arrow always ends up being kind of limp.  The photo
in the book shows a stiff, straight arrow.  What's the secret?

Thanks
Mark Morden
marmonk@eskimo.com





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 08:53:15 -0400
From: yusri johan <yjohan@dekalb.DC.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: News from OUSA

Yesterday, I received a letter with two announcements in it from OUSA. The
first announcement is about COET (Conference on Origami in Education and
Therapy) '95.  For those who wish to make a presentation of any type
(paper, workshop, demonstration), please send the following information:

- a short description of your proposed contribution, including topuc,
target audience, and a brief development. If you've already written a
paper and have an abstract, send that along
- an estimate of how much time you'll need
- a list of materials you will need.

to : Origami USA
     Attn.: COET95
     15 West 77 St.
     New York, NY 10024-5192
or fax it to (212) 769-5668

This COET95 will be held on June 26, in NYC, immediately following the
Origami Convention '95.

Tom "The Hullmeister" Hull are you going to present something dor COET95?

Second announcement is about the Winter/Spring-Special Folding Fun
Session 1-1995 on February 12, March 5, and April 2.

Later.
Yus





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 10:33:47 -0400
From: Sheldon Ackerman <ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org>
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

>

> few times, but the arrow always ends up being kind of limp.  The photo
> in the book shows a stiff, straight arrow.  What's the secret?
>
> Thanks
> Mark Morden
> marmonk@eskimo.com
>
I prefer thin origami paper so as the bulge which inadvertantly forms at the
center of the heart is minimized. It really makes no difference as this
bulge is covered by the flaps of the heart. The arrow always ends up being
stiff due to the number of folds done to it. You have the sink fold which
immediately doubles  (or more) its thickness. This is then followed by the
valley folds.

--
Sheldon Ackerman
ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
ackerman@amanda.dorsai.org
sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 11:33:35 -0400
From: SOYLENT GREEN <rhudson@yorkcol.EDU>
Subject: Double Sinking

Can anyone describe general techniques for performing multiple sinks?  One of
my weak points is crimps, but I can almost manage those.. but I have trouble
with multiple sinks and the paper crimping itself during the process.  Any
guidelines?

Rob

-------------------------------------------------
Yorn desh born, der ritt de gitt der gue,
Orn desh, dee born desh, de umn bork! bork! bork!





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 12:01:43 -0400
From: yusri johan <yjohan@dekalb.DC.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: FYI

FYI only!
I found a site on the WWW (World Wide Web) where you can do a search on or
buy books. The last time I did a search on Origami books, I found 75
entries on this site. Some of these books are easy and some of them
contains complicted models. For those who are interested in this online
bookstore, the URL is:
               http://intertain.com/

Ciao
Yus





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 14:56:06 -0400
From: Kim Best <Kim.Best@m.cc.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Double Sinking

On Fri, 27 Jan 1995, SOYLENT GREEN wrote:

> Can anyone describe general techniques for performing multiple sinks?  One of
> my weak points is crimps, but I can almost manage those.. but I have trouble
> with multiple sinks and the paper crimping itself during the process.  Any
> guidelines?
>
> Rob
>

First of all pre-fold your model on the lines where the sinks will take
place crease using valley folds, crease sharply. Then refold the same
folds with mountain folds, creasing sharply again. Now open up the
model as much as you can, and start pinching all folds into their proper
orientation, take your time and try to get them perfect.  Now working
slowly and carefully, message the sinks into place, pay special attention
to the corners, and try to get them sharp.  With a little practice the
thing will collapse right into place.  If your not to much of a purist a
pair of tweasers or a small pocket knife helps to get the corners perfect.

Kim Best





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 15:18:27 -0400
From: Kim Best <Kim.Best@m.cc.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

On Fri, 27 Jan 1995, Mark Morden wrote:

> What type of paper do you use for this model.  I have tried to make it a
> few times, but the arrow always ends up being kind of limp.  The photo
> in the book shows a stiff, straight arrow.  What's the secret?
>
> Thanks
> Mark Morden
> marmonk@eskimo.com
>

I like to use thin foil paper, perferably metalic red.  It makes the
arrow stiffer and and the heart it self holds it shape longer.  I also
like the metalic sheen.

Kim Best





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 16:00:00 -0400
From: REEDS@zodiac.rutgers.edu
Subject: Family Origami Workshop, New ProvidenceNJ 2/3/95 7:30pm help!

I'm running a family origami workshop at my kid's elementary school
on Friday evening Feb 3, 1995--teaching an unknown # of parents and
kids 5 easy models more-or-less related to valentine's day. I have
one OUSA neighbor who is helping (Judy Demby)--but there's no telling
how many people will show up. If anyone would like to help (and stay for
pizza afterwards), I'd be grateful. We're an hour due west of the
World Trade Center, in a little town next to Summit NJ, and on the
doorstep of ATT Bell Labs (Murray Hill). email or call for directions
and details. (I'll be glad to send a list of models and diagrams for
the original one--Heart Dart--if you send me an SASE.)
There's a modest fee $2/adult that I can waive for any volunteer teachers.
Of course, feel free to bring kids. All the models will be made from 8 1/2x11
     paper to keep costs down (paper supplied).
Karen Reeds  908--932-8174 work 464-0714 home (eve till 10, weekend)
Rutgers University Press, 109 Church Street, New Brunswick NJ 08901
reeds@zodiac.rutgers.edu





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 17:03:06 -0400
From: Doctor Demento <barth@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Family Origami Workshop, New ProvidenceNJ 2/3/95 7:30pm help!

> I'm running a family origami workshop at my kid's elementary school
> on Friday evening Feb 3, 1995--teaching an unknown # of parents and
> kids 5 easy models more-or-less related to valentine's day. I have

<snip>

Sorry, but I couldn't help but ask...

Would the "Lonely Man" happen to be among the models? ;-)

Kevin

Kevin Barth
barth@wam.umd.edu
*************        GSS/MU d H- s++:++>+:+ g-(?) p? !au a- w+++ v+(-)
The Geek Code        C++ UU+ P- L- 3- E---- N+++ K+ W@(W--) M-- V--
Version 2.1          -po+ Y+ t+@ 5 j R G tv b+(++) D- B-
*************        e+++ u(*) h! f- r- n-- y+





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 19:39:46 -0400
From: logician!sophie!pat@uunet.uu.net (Heather)
Subject: Cloth Folding

I have used fusible interfacing, and fusible webbing to bond and stiffen
two layers of fabric to fold into boxes.  I have glued silk and kozo
paper (to give it a little more body) with 3M spray adhesive.  I find
when working with fabric it is good to have a hot (dry) iron nearby.  A friend
of mine uses fabric wallpaper with beautiful results.  It is already
backed with paper, and holds creases well.  The disadvantage is that
the best papers are always expensive, and often you have to buy them
in two roll packages.

Pat





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 22:04:21 -0400
From: Kelly Reed <kreed@lcsc.edu>
Subject: Re: FYI

        Thanks for the tip on the origami books.  I just tried it and
found one that looked interesting:

               Kobayashi, Kei
               Origami de tsukuru patchiwaku patan
               English: 520 quick and easy patchwork designs: the
                     amazing paper folding method for endless variations

        Has anyone seen this book?  Do you recommend it?

                          thanks,
                          Kelly Reed
                          Lewiston, Idaho





Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 22:46:31 -0400
From: a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com
Subject: Fabric Origami

I got a couple of private e-mails on the subject, so thought I'd go into
more detail on the fabric origami experiment.  I used "Blair Crafter's
Adhesive", which specifically states it is for use on both porous and non-
porous surfaces including fabric, papers, and foils.  The label also brags
about it being non-yellowing and non-bleeding.  I'm happy with it, except
for the sputtering (which had no ill effects, BTW).

The way I used it was to cut one oversize piece each of kitchen aluminum
foil and tissue. Then I sprayed the foil and the wrong side of the precut
fabric square, waited a minute (per the glue label), and slapped them
together.  I had everything resting on newspaper to catch the overspray.
Then I got a fresh piece of newspaper, turned over the fabric-foil to the
foil side, sprayed foil and tissue, waited, and glued them together.
Trimming was the last step.

Julia also asked about the consistency of cooked powdered starch.  I don't
remember exactly, but as I recall it was fairly runny while it was hot.  I
think it could be brushed with a sponge or sponge-brush successfully.  I do
recall that, with some hesitation, I disposed of the leftovers by pouring it
down the sink with lots of hot water, and I never had any plumbing problems.
The package instructions describe the recipes for light, medium, and heavy
starch: heavy starch is 1/3 cup of starch powder + 1/2 cup cold water, to
which you add 2 qts boiling water.  For medium starch you add 4 qts boiling
water; for light starch, 6 qts.  So apparently it's pretty much vary-to-
taste.

Anabeth Dollins reported that she had good success using spray starch and a
hot iron to fold fabric with no backcoating into cranes for a quilt project.
Another interesting approach!

Anne





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 02:11:50 -0400
From: Origamiist@aol.com
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

I have made the valentine many times, mostly with standard origami paper at
most craft stores. Recently I found some foil backed paper at a store called
A.C. More. It is thicker than most foil paper, but I have found it works
great for this particular model. It holds up even if you use a very large
size (14" square). The paper comes in red, gold and silver on a large roll
for about $5.00.

P.S. Thanx to Penelope and Mary Jane for the box pleating info.

-Vern





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 02:40:35 -0400
From: aweiner@alfa.microserve.com (Alan Weiner)
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

>
>
>On Fri, 27 Jan 1995, Mark Morden wrote:
>
>> What type of paper do you use for this model.  I have tried to make it a
>> few times, but the arrow always ends up being kind of limp.  The photo
>> in the book shows a stiff, straight arrow.  What's the secret?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mark Morden
>> marmonk@eskimo.com
>>
>
>I like to use thin foil paper, perferably metalic red.  It makes the
>arrow stiffer and and the heart it self holds it shape longer.  I also
>like the metalic sheen.
>
>Kim Best
>
>
I have had good success with a red paper backed with foil.  With the foil on
the inside the arrow comes out in the foil color.  This holds together well.
The only problem is the paper gets too thick and it is hard to round the
arrow shaft. Anyone know if wet folding works with foil backed parpers?

Alan





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 08:57:19 -0400
From: Stamm@aol.com
Subject: Re: Double Sinking

When I have to do multiple sinks I...
1   Try to precrease where the sink should go when its easy to do so.
    Actually I generally precrease anytime a  fold gets complicated.  It
    just makes like easier and it look neater.
2   Don't be afraid to open the model up a bit (unfold it) so you can get
    your fingers in the right places to bias the direction of the crease.
    The problems I had early on was I was trying to control the paper to
    much and once I fold something wouldn't let it go.  It's only
    paper...It will fold back into place.
3   If your folding fold you may have to flatten the crease (unfolded) with
    your fingernail and the table top, otherwise the fold will tend to add
    a new crease right next to the one you wanted to reverse and make
    folding unmanageable.
4   The following is kind of obscure advice, but it applies to all art and
    life as well.  [The origami version]:  Fold, Fold, Fold til you can
    fold without thinking of how the paper (or fold or cloth or whatever)
    behaves -- Let material teach your fingers how to work it.  Fold til
    you think about forming a animal or expressing an idea or feeling,
    instead of folding paper.

Hopes this helps,
Tom "Just Some Guy" Stamm

"Origami is NOT about folding little animals.  It's about meeting people who
like to fold little animals."





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 15:11:22 -0400
From: Joseph Wu <jwu@cs.ubc.ca>
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

On Sat, 28 Jan 1995, Alan Weiner wrote:

> I have had good success with a red paper backed with foil.  With the foil on
> the inside the arrow comes out in the foil color.  This holds together well.
> The only problem is the paper gets too thick and it is hard to round the
> arrow shaft. Anyone know if wet folding works with foil backed parpers?

Not usually. Wetting will result in the paper separating from the foil,
usually.

Joseph Wu      <jwu@cs.ubc.ca> | Witty quote is now back to the
Master's Student               |   drawing board due to squeamish
University of British Columbia |   readers. Any suggestions?
WWW: http://www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/jwu/origami.html (Origami Page)





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 17:41:57 -0400
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject: double sinking

Hi!

Tom "Just Some Guy" Stamm reminded people to be careful of foil and getting
the creases right when you are reversing them (so you don't get a double
crease) for those of you with long nails, what I normally do id take a finger-
nail and run it along on the inside of the crease, then it folds the right
direction and won't double.  If you don't happen to have long nails, you can
use some small BLUNT object, say a very dull pencil, or an inkless ball point
pen to do the same thing.  You may have to unfold the model a little more to
get your finger or said blunt object inside to the fold, but the extra effort
is well worth it.

-Dee





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 19:17:08 -0400
From: MJNAUGHTON@amherst.edu
Subject: Omega/Harbin

Hi Dan,
        Actually, I think the Omega Star is a _Twelve_-pointed star!
(Don't know the Harbin model, though. . .)
Mike Naughton





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 19:53:12 -0400
From: ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org (Sheldon Ackerman)
Subject: Re: Peter Engel's Valentine

>This is actually a modified version of an inside-reverse fold.  So at step
>24, the top has 2 loose flaps folded down put the bottom has 2 pockets
>where the flaps can be tucked in.
>     I hope this clears things up for you.  If not, just write to me and
>I'll try to show what part of the previous description wasn't clear enough.
>
Thanks!
I was able to do it with the instructions you provided.
I can now see that is what Peter Engel means by his instructions.
What I've been doing was to fold the top and bottom 1/3. Then I'd complete the
valley folds at the top, while at the bottom I'd now open up the 1/3 valley
fold and
valley fold the thinner layer into the pockets. Then I'd simply insert the
little remaining triangular peice into the top. Don't know if I'm clear, but
the correct way does get you a neater top of the heart that seems a bit more
secure.
Thanks again!
It's a great model and quite easy!

------
ackerman@dorsai.dorsai.org
sheldon.ackerman@nycps.nycenet.edu





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 20:50:18 -0400
From: Mark Morden <marmonk@eskimo.com>
Subject: Coatings for models (was Re: Paper Sources)

>Also, does anyone know of a **nontoxic**, smooth-coating varnish of sorts
>that can be applied to origami figures to strengthen them? I've tried the
>acrylic spray, but I don't want to be susceptible to the multiple types of
>cancers noted on the warning label and I can't work with paper when I have
>to keep all the windows open and a fan going! The milky-type decoupage
>fluids leave streaks when you brush them on, so I'd like to find some type
>of dip or spray (**nonaerosol**).
>
>Thanks,
>Lisa
>
>
I don't think this qualifies as non-toxic, but the best coating/sealer for
models that I have found is a product called "Joli Glaze."  In Gay Merrill
Gross' book, "Origami: New Ideas in Paperfolding," she includes Joli Glaze
as a recommendation for coating models.

I have tried acrylics, polyurethanes, and varnishes, but none were
satisfactory to me.   They usually would crack, yellow, be too thin, or have
little air bubbles.  Even spray acrylics weren't good because they wouldn't
develop the hard glossy finish I was looking for.

Joli Glaze dries clear, hard, and shiny.  They sell a thinner to use with
it.  I usually apply in two coats.  The first coat is thinned down to act as
a sealer.  The second coat is used neat (undiluted) to provide a uniform
finish.  The only drawback I have found, other than fumes, is that on some
papers the Jol Glaze will soak through and  show the folds in the hidden
layers.  If this happens, then I try to go lighter with each coat so the
paper doesn't get so saturated.  As for the fumes, I work in the garage.

I don't know what Joli Glaze is made of.  The label gives no information. My
guess is some kind of resin or plastic.

I have used this stuff to make origami pins.  I will fold small models, glue
a pin backing on the model, and coat.  Everyone I have given these to has
been delighted.

Mark Morden
marmonk@eskimo.com





Date: Sat, 28 Jan 1995 20:57:35 -0400
From: Mark Morden <marmonk@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Fabric Origami

>
>The way I used it was to cut one oversize piece each of kitchen aluminum
>foil and tissue. Then I sprayed the foil and the wrong side of the precut
>fabric square, waited a minute (per the glue label), and slapped them
>together.  I had everything resting on newspaper to catch the overspray.
>Then I got a fresh piece of newspaper, turned over the fabric-foil to the
>foil side, sprayed foil and tissue, waited, and glued them together.
>Trimming was the last step.
>

What is the purpose of the tissue?  Is it to provide a finished backing to
the other side of the foil?  Is the tissue just regular tissue paper?

Thanks for the answers

Mark Morden
marmonk@eskimo.com





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 11:25:15 -0400
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Wasteful Units

In message <01HM1OH1X1I093547M@amherst.edu> Mike Haughton wrote:
+       Your requirement that the units "lock together securely" makes
+this a tough one, but one that springs to mind is the model (sort of
+cube-like, with projections) that you can make with 6 3x5 cards (and other
+rectangles as well).  Do you know this one?  If not, I have some information
+somewhere & can dig it out when time permits. . . .

Yep, I think I am familiar with that one.  Someone else posted earlier in
thear (later last year really) about being able to interlock the cubes or
rhmobics together even.  That cube does make full use of the paper, but
requires the paper to be a bit stiffer than the stiffest specialty paper that
I have.  Does make a great use of idling business cards though.
Thanks,
    -Doug





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 11:27:31 -0400
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Unit Origami Wastes Paper (was: Question about cube form.)

In message <1CE00001.k9eh6e@sophie.UUCP> Pat wrote:
+Try looking in 'Origami Omnibus', by Kasahara, on page 212-13.  This unit
+wastes very little surface for an interlocking unit.  It is
+quite cohesive, but fragile, as many of the surfaces are only 1 paper
+thick.

Pat,
    Thanks for the pointer.  It looks pretty good from the diagrams, but I
    haven't actually gotten around to making one yet (this is the
    interpenetrating cube/octahedron).  Thanks for the reference (I tend to
    forget I have Omnibus..hmm...)

    -Doug





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 12:15:29 -0400
From: a.mccombs3@genie.geis.com
Subject: Interesting papers

On the subject of interesting "found" papers, I had a small inspiration the
other day.  I am a great fan of "page-a-day" type calendars, and one of my
selections this year has those "Magic-Eye" type random-dot stereo images for
each day.  They come in a variety of pleasant all-over patterns; some of
them have repeated recognizable images, such as all-over hearts.  At any
rate, my sample piece folded quite nicely; the paper had a very slightly
pebbly feel to it (I think it's coated paper).  Calendars are on half-price
sales in most places right now ... :)

Anne





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 15:57:28 -0400
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: More Omega Stars

The latest OUSA class brochure lists a class Mar. 5 by Wendy Zeichner
on a "30 Piece Omega Star", and says she made one for the museum tree
this year.

Does anyone remember a previous class listing about a one sheet Omega
Star? Was that also Wendy's?

I had been wanting to make a one sheet version for some time and finally
really got to work on it last fall and got a solution in time to make
Xmas ornaments, and so am of course wondering if its a "parallel" or
different solution. I also had been working on one with more than 6
units, and came up with one that is also 30 units.

I figured it would pretty much have to be based on an icosidodecahedron,
since the Star uses a square sink, which translates into something with
4 units or edges per vertice.

In one of Tomoko Fuse's books (1993, Japanese, but I think the title
translated as New World Origami, it had units by Paolo Bascetta and
David Mitchell besides her own. ISBN4-405-07553-0), the colored photo
"diagram" section has a model called "BOREAS" attrib. to David Petty.

Mechanically, this unit assembles analogously to the O.Star in that the
units are locked together by folding over an edge with a "tab" inside
a "pocket". The model is a spectacular icosidodec. with sharply concave
faces converging at the center. (I have some variations that reduce the
unit to more of a "strut" to make a crystalline open work ball...)

Anyway, if you start with Petty's unit, but fold the sides of the sink
over Omega Star fashion, instead of the points as he does, you get a
"30-Piece Omega Star". (The pocket & tab mechanism has to be slightly
modified too.)

Does anyone know what Wendy's solution looked like, or if hers is
similar or entirely different?

--valerie     Valerie Vann     compuserve: 75070,304
                               INTERNET:  75070.304@compuserve.com

"Frustration is living in California
reading about origami classes in New York..."





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 20:58:21 -0400
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: Yoshizawa and Geometric Origami

Tom Hull wrote re convention in Japan:

>> Yoshizawa has publicly denounced such "geometric origami."
>> He has called modular origami "soulless".
>> Ditto for abstract origami tessellations.

I always think its sad that some people feel compelled to put down
other folks enthusiasms (not to say "life's work"). In a sense it
puts Yoshizawa in the company of the nut (?) who recently caused the
stir here by objecting in rather overwrought language to "chit-chat"
about that same Science & Origmai Conference.

To me, nothing that springs from the ingenuity of the human mind is
soulless, and certainly not mathematics & geometries, parallel universes
that exist only in the human imagination, and yet have symetries and
even laws that are consistent and work (where else to find that?); to
say nothing of that peculiar human creation, humor...

(I KNOW mathematicians have a sense of humor; we used to get the
giggles just reading the graduate course descriptions in the UC Berkeley
course catalog...)

--valerie     Valerie Vann        compuserve: 75070,304
INTERNET:     vvann@delphi.com
      or:     75070.304@compuserve.com
>> He bought a large map representing the sea,             <<
>> without the least vestige of land;                      <<
>> And the crew were much pleased when they found it to be <<
>> A map they could all understand... [Carroll: Hunting of the Snark<<
[..does anyone have a model of a Snark???]





Date: Sun, 29 Jan 1995 21:01:31 -0400
From: Valerie Vann <75070.304@compuserve.com>
Subject: Edward Sullivan

Someone noted here recently that Edward Sullivan had passed away.
Was he the inventor of the "Castle" modules (Kenneway: Complete Origami:
"Bluebeards Castle"; also one of Tomoko Fuse's books)?

I was thinking last year it would be a kick to make those out of
big paper and do a group project at a meeting or OUSA convention or
something like that. Tomoko has a modified traditional square
"measuring box" that makes a compatible half height module. This led
me to go on a castle binge last year when I was on vacation. I ended
up with another dozen or so modules, including roof variation, a draw
bridge, bell tower, stairs (circular & plain), base units to make a
moat, and a bunch of "crusaders pavilions or tents" that also make
good chess pieces...

Like LEGO tm building blocks, it tends to get away from the original
elegant simplicity of 4-6 units, but its entertaining. The biggest
drawback is the units mostly tend to be top heavy, and since they
don't lock together, tend to fall over when the cat goes by or you're
just beginning to get something like the "Magic Castle".

But who knows - I'd bet a group binge by a bunch of modular origami
nuts could solve that problem too! (We could always resort to the
**G** pot...)

---valerie     Valerie Vann        compuserve: 75070,304
                                   INTERNET: 75070.304@compuserve.com

>> He bought a large map representing the sea,             <<
>> without the least vestige of land;                      <<
>> And the crew were much pleased when they found it to be <<
>> A map they could all understand... [Carroll: Hunting of the Snark<<
[..does anyone have a model of a Snark???]





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 07:26:21 -0400
From: "M.J.van.Gelder" <M.J.van.Gelder@rc.rug.nl>
Subject: Re: Edward Sullivan

m>Someone noted here recently that Edward Sullivan had passed away.
m>Was he the inventor of the "Castle" modules (Kenneway: Complete Origami:
m>"Bluebeards Castle"; also one of Tomoko Fuse's books)?

Ed Sullivan indeed is the inventor of Bluebeards Castle.

m>I was thinking last year it would be a kick to make those out of
m>big paper and do a group project at a meeting or OUSA convention or
m>something like that. Tomoko has a modified traditional square
m>"measuring box" that makes a compatible half height module. This led
m>me to go on a castle binge last year when I was on vacation. I ended
m>up with another dozen or so modules, including roof variation, a draw
m>bridge, bell tower, stairs (circular & plain), base units to make a
m>moat, and a bunch of "crusaders pavilions or tents" that also make
m>good chess pieces...

I also tried and found some roof modules to make a large roof on a central
house surrounded by walls.

m>Like LEGO tm building blocks, it tends to get away from the original
m>elegant simplicity of 4-6 units, but its entertaining. The biggest
m>drawback is the units mostly tend to be top heavy, and since they
m>don't lock together, tend to fall over when the cat goes by or you're
m>just beginning to get something like the "Magic Castle".
m>
m>But who knows - I'd bet a group binge by a bunch of modular origami
m>nuts could solve that problem too! (We could always resort to the
m>**G** pot...)

The walls are indeed very unstable. Because I didn't want to rebuild the
castle very often I g..ed them together in large blocks.
I ended up with a castle made from 450 units (15x15 cm sheets). The outer
measure of the walls was 70 cm. The height of the castle was about 40 cm.
And I added some knights (existing models) on horseback and some trees.

A big problem came up after g...ing the blocks: they took a lot of space to
store them at home. I needed two large boxes (30x40x60 cm). And that boxes
contained mostly just air (99%).

Maarten van Gelder, Rekencentrum RuG, RijksUniversiteit Groningen, Holland





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 10:11:30 -0400
From: Martin Gibbs <mrg1001@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Edward Sullivan

On Sun, 29 Jan 1995, Valerie Vann wrote:

> Someone noted here recently that Edward Sullivan had passed away.
> Was he the inventor of the "Castle" modules (Kenneway: Complete Origami:
> "Bluebeards Castle"; also one of Tomoko Fuse's books)?

  That's the one, yes.





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 12:18:07 -0400
From: lisaa@gsa-orsp.crown.nwu.EDU (Lisa Abel)
Subject: Castles

Valerie,

CASTLES: I would love to have more details on the castle modules you found.
I'm in the processing of designing dioramas depicting ecosystems and scenes
from myths and folktales. I've seen some of the castle pieces, but not
those you're talking about.

DRAGONS: If you'd like info on dragons to accent your castles, I have a new
book on origami mythical creatures that contains several dragons. I'll pass
on the author, etc. if you or anyone else is interested. The winged dragon
in this book has become one of my favorites. (I don't think there is a
Snark model, but there might be something akin to a Jabberwocky!)

Lisa

** A closed mouth gathers no feet **





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 12:26:14 -0400
From: lisaa@gsa-orsp.crown.nwu.edu (Lisa Abel)
Subject: Human models

I've only been folding for two years and do mostly animal figures, although
I'm becoming more intrigued with the modular patterns. I haven't seen many
of the books cited on this list, so I may be missing the obvious, but are
there any books that include models for HUMANS? Any tips would be greatly
appreciated.

Lisa

** When ideas fail, words come in very handy. -- Goethe **





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 13:01:47 -0400
From: Mary Jane Heussner <rgtmjh@gsusgi2.gsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Human models

Lisa,

There's a British Origami Society publication on Neal Elias that has some
wonderful humans in it.  Robert Lang has a fabulous baby model (the
baby and the diaper come out different colors)  that he can
give you the reference for when he reads this.  (I'm at work so I can't
check, but I think it's in a convention program.) Also, one of my favorite
human models is Scott Bedrick's "the paperfolder" which is a little
person holding an origami animal that he/she has folded.  You can do a
color change so that the person and figure are different and you can
experiment with the paper that becomes the figure to get different things.
Also, you can bend the little person around so it sits with its legs
crossed or stands or whatever.  (I got my diagrams for this from Scott at
the convention one year, but it's probably in one of the convention
books because he's taught it several times.)  There are also nativity
scenes in several books and angels and santas (if you count them as
human; my favorite santa is the Steve and Megumi Biddle one--anybody know
the name of that book?) and lots of other humans that I don't
have the references for in my head.
Mary Jane





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 13:10:58 -0400
From: tony@ele.puc-rio.br (Antonio Jose' Correia Sampaio)
Subject: Re:  Castles & Dragons

Dear Lisa

I would love to have more details about CASTLE modules and DRAGONS too. By the
     way I am interested in mythical creatures origami ( mainly western
     creatures ).
All information you can send my will be most welcome.

Tony





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 13:13:17 -0400
From: Martin Gibbs <mrg1001@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Castles

Dear Lisa,

  I think I may have the book but if you could give details that would be
helpful.  If it is the book I think, have you ever managed the woodland
elf (or some such name)?  There's a badly diagrammed bit which I've never
been able to get past (I might look it up to see which stage it is and
come back to you.

  Martin Gibbs.

Mon, 30 Jan 1995, Lisa Abel wrote:

> Valerie,
>
> DRAGONS: If you'd like info on dragons to accent your castles, I have a new
> book on origami mythical creatures that contains several dragons. I'll pass
> on the author, etc. if you or anyone else is interested. The winged dragon
> in this book has become one of my favorites. (I don't think there is a
> Snark model, but there might be something akin to a Jabberwocky!)
>
> Lisa
>
> ** A closed mouth gathers no feet **





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 13:22:44 -0400
From: Yusri Johan <gs01yyj@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Subject: Re: Castles & Dragons

On Mon, 30 Jan 1995, Antonio Jose' Correia Sampaio wrote:

> I would love to have more details about CASTLE modules and DRAGONS too. By
> the way I am interested in mythical creatures origami ( mainly western
> creatures ).  All information you can send my will be most welcome.
>
> Tony

Tony,
One of my favorite books on mythical creature is by Jay Ansill titled
"Origami today: Mythical Beings." If you are interested in dragon, there
is one dragon model in Steve & Megumi Biddle's "Essential Origami" (as a
matter of fact I believe the cover of this book is that dragon model.)

Later.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yusri Johan                         | A lot of people believe that What You
Georgia State University            | is What You Get. Well, it's time to
gs01yyj@panther.gsu.edu             | change that view because that condition
Psychology and Communication        | is not always true.





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 13:23:45 -0400
From: "Penelope R. Chua" <chupenr@minerva.cis.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Human models

How does one order publications from the British Origami Society?  I
don't remember seeing anything like that in the OUSA list of supplies.

--
Penelope Chua                 chupenr@minerva.cis.yale.edu
Department of Biology         (203) 432-5052
Yale University
219 Prospect Street
Box 6666
New Haven, CT 06511





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 14:33:25 -0400
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject: castles and dragons

Lisa -

Is the book you have by any chance Jay Aill's _Mythological Beings_?  If
is is, have you tried the dragon with the flapping wings?  I have "done" that
one several times, but I can never seem to make my model look like the drawings
in several places (most notably going from step 5 to step 6, and getting the
top of the head to be white - I also noted that the photo of said dragon
doesn't have a white head)  Has anyone else done this? I would beinterested
in hearing how you do it!

 -Dee





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 14:40:19 -0400
From: "BOB T. LYNCH" <blynch@du.edu>
Subject: human figures

In answer to Lisa's question about human figures Kasahara's _Origami Omnibus_
has Adam and Eve figures (they are two-parters, and yes, Adam is anatomically
correct).  There is a wonderful Nativity Scene by Ligia Montoya in Harbin's
_Secrets of Origami_, there is a bride and groom in Kasahara's _Origami Made
Easy_, and I think there are a couple of figures in the Gray/Kasahara _The
Magic of Origami_.  Someone once sent me a couple of figures from a Spanish
book, I think it was, I don't remember if they gave me the details or not, but
I could probably get them for you.

-Dee





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 15:29:03 -0400
From: BPearl@eworld.com
Subject: EXHIBIT NEEDS MODELS

The "Origami Exhibit" NEEDS MODELS. Dragons, castles, hearts and
tesselations--please consider making  2 and contribute to the exhibit.
The EXHIBIT travels to local California schools, libraries, museums and
hospitals including the Cedar Sinai Cancer Center for Children and Adults.
 The exhibit includes animals, money folds, flowers and modulars from Lewis
Simon and Bennett Arnstein. Some of the models in the exhibit are contributed
by folders from around the world including Italy and Russia. All models are
welcome and all contributor's names are displayed.
In March, the exhibit will travel to the Los Angeles Public Library for
several months. Include your name, city, state, and model information.
 Questions? -- email BPearl@eworld.com.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT, Origami Mommy (OM)

PLEASE send models to:
Origami Exhibit
2417 Vista Hogar
Newport Beach, CA  92660





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 17:35:53 -0400
From: bryan@sgl.ists.ca (Bryan Feir)
Subject: Greetings...

   Mostly just a drop-in message to say hello here... I just recently joined
up with this list.  I've been practicing with origami off and on for a few
years now, and consider myself approaching 'journeyman' level.  (I've gotten
good at building forms out of books, and have done a few simple original
designs.)  I've also managed to sell a few pieces of origami at SF con art
shows.

   Sounds like quite a number of things I've still got to learn about here...
and a number of books I should pick up, though I have several already.

   To answer one thread that's been going on here... I've just cheated and
used a spray-on clear lacquer to harden my origami pieces for transport and
sale.  Except on the foil paper; I learned the hard way that the lacquer
doesn't add to the structural support of foil covered paper, and in fact
dissolves the foil.

> [..does anyone have a model of a Snark???]
   No, but I think I have a model of a boojum I could sh...

---------------------------+---------------------------------------------------
Bryan Feir           VE7GBF|"A half-truth, like a half-brick, is more forcible
bryan@sgl.ists.ca          | in an argument than a whole one...
                           | it carries further."     -- Stephen Leacock





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 19:05:58 -0400
From: sheamus@netcom.com (James Carroll)
Subject: Re: Greetings...

     Bryan Feir wrote:

> designs.)  I've also managed to sell a few pieces of origami at SF con art
> shows.

Bryan,

What sort of folds did you sell? I've taught a few classes at cons here
in Atlanta, but never thought origami would be sellable (?)......

James Carroll





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 19:16:18 -0400
From: sheamus@netcom.com (James Carroll)
Subject: Re: Human models

   Lisa Abel wrote:

> there any books that include models for HUMANS? Any tips would be greatly

There are several human folds (one is an action fold) in  "Fascinante
Papiroflexia" by Vicente Palacios. It's in Spanish (with an English
translation) and should be available through the Supply Center.

James





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 19:48:09 -0400
From: Cynthia Pettit <pettit@cs.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Human models

>[...]
>wonderful humans in it.  Robert Lang has a fabulous baby model (the
>[...]
>check, but I think it's in a convention program.) Also, one of my favorite
>human models is Scott Bedrick's "the paperfolder" which is a little
>person holding an origami animal that he/she has folded.  You can do a

Why, if you're going to mention Robert Lang and then a paper-folder
model all in one message, you *must* mention Robert's own paperfolder!
He holds a little [color-changed] flapping crane -- and can really
flap the crane!

Robert has a number of amazing people-that-do-stuff: the violinist,
the piano player, the cello-ist and the guitarist!  Last I heard is
that he's got a book in the works for next year just on action folds!
<bumps Robert with elbo as a cue to plug his new book :) >

A couple things about the "origami-ist": the final step bringing the
two halves of the crane together are difficult and I have had to
resort to...g.l.u.e. :(  <hangs head in shame>  I get so much joy out
of this model, though -- it's worth it!

I feel weird "flapping" the man to make the crane flap...  Too
recursive. :) [I asked Robert if he'd made an origami-ist folding an
*origami-ist* folding a crane... :) ]

I have also made the guitarist for a few performers I have gone to see
-- it's much more fun to *give* a gift when you're getting an
autograph.  [Leo Kotteke and David Wilcox are two who have a
Lang-guitarist!  Buddy Guy in a couple weeks!]

The origami-ist is in the first collection of "Models By Members" of
the former Friends of the Origami Center.  The violinist, the
cello-ist, and the piano player are in _The Complete Book Of Origami_
and the guitarist is in some collection of FOCA which I don't know
right now, but will be in his new book.

[Also note that many models in _Complete Book_ use non-standard sized
paper, including the three mentioned here.  I think Robert said that
all models in _Action Origami_ are out of square paper, though.]

Cyn "who worships the table Robert folds on <giggle>" Pettit
--
        "It's not about driving down rt 66 and stopping at the Holiday Inn!
               It's about *adventure*!!"
                          ---Richard P Feynman





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 20:12:23 -0400
From: Rjlang@aol.com
Subject: Re: Origami paper

> I had the same problem with not quite perfect squares with the 6"
> paper I ordered from OUSA.

It should be noted that most commercial origami paper changes dimensions with
humidity. I find that in traveling from the East Coast (80% humidity) to L.A.
(10%) that a 10" so-called square will vary in one dimension by about 0.5 mm.
It's never truly square, though!

Robert





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 20:14:27 -0400
From: Rjlang@aol.com
Subject: More on the Omega Star

Many years ago I visited John Montroll at his home in Maryland and he pulled
out some of the bags and bags of original designs he has stashed away (even
then he was well over 1K designs), including a whole family of thingies
derived from his one-piece Omega Star (or "quasi-stellated rhombic
dodecahedron," to get fancy). The basic idea behind them all is: you fold an
Omega Star up to the point where you would normally bend down all the edges
(or sink them, if you're macho and want a solid polyhedron). Call this thing
the "Omega Star Base." Instead of bending the edges down, sink each corner as
far as possible, then sink each of the new corners halfway; what you will
wind up with is a half-size Omega Star Base with each corner quadrupled;
thus, if you now bend the edges down, you will wind up with a 48-pointed star
(remember, this is still one piece of paper). If you're feeling your oats,
you can repeat the process (John did) to make a 192-pointed star, which makes
a very realistic sweetgum ball.

Robert





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 23:54:55 -0400
From: logician!sophie!pat@uunet.uu.net (Pat Zura)
Subject: Involuntary 'unsubscription'

Is there a sysadmin for this list?  Or are we completely at the mercy
of the Machine?  This is the third time I have been 'disappeared' from the
list.  Anybody have any experience fixing this problem permanently?
Or do I just keep resubscribing....

Pat





Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 23:57:57 -0400
From: logician!sophie!pat@uunet.uu.net (Pat Zura)
Subject: Re; double sinking

I have found using a bone paper folding tool can push out the crimps
in sink folding.  It's sort of like a letter opener, except the edges
and point are slightly rounded so as not to tear the paper.  It will
also make a very sharp crease and get into very small places.  I wouldn't
fold without it.

Pat





Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 00:22:16 -0400
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: Re: Sonobe variations

In message <199501231045.AA180787957@relay2.geis.com> Anne wrote:
+those as soon as I get some time.  I know I've seen some other variations in
+print as well.  I'll track them down eventually.

The unit I posted as hideous ascii art has a variant where you can fold the
edges "up" to expose the other side of the paper.  This thins the unit and
leaves holes.  I like the unit variation which folds the edges under, which
thins it without the color change.  It is my new favorite Sonobe variant.

+Irrelevant thought - I think Fuse must find the prettiest papers for the
+color photos in her books of any author I know of.  Endlessly inspiring!

I agree, almost.  Gay Merrill Gross also does a stunning job of picking paper.

-Doug





Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 00:30:02 -0400
From: Doug Philips <dwp+@transarc.com>
Subject: NY Folding Fests (was: More Omega Stars)

In message <950129194942_75070.304_CHK88-2@CompuServe.COM> Valerie wrote:
+"Frustration is living in California
+reading about origami classes in New York..."

It doesn't have to be as far away as CA.  In fact, being in PA it is a lot
worse.  The real slam-dunk is that they are on Sundays, so anyone that has to
be back at work Monday morning is particularly rushed.  Sigh.

-Doug





Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 10:03:33 -0400
From: Martin Gibbs <mrg1001@hermes.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Involuntary 'unsubscription'

On Mon, 30 Jan 1995, Pat Zura wrote:

> Is there a sysadmin for this list?  Or are we completely at the mercy
> of the Machine?  This is the third time I have been 'disappeared' from the
> list.  Anybody have any experience fixing this problem permanently?
> Or do I just keep resubscribing....
>
> Pat
>

You could try writing to the list manager:

  listmgr@nstn.ca

    Yours sincerely,

      Martin Gibbs





Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 10:53:02 -0400
From: lisaa@gsa-orsp.crown.nwu.edu (Lisa Abel)
Subject: Re: double sinking

Pat wrote:
>I have found using a bone paper folding tool can push out the crimps
>in sink folding.  It's sort of like a letter opener, except the edges
>and point are slightly rounded so as not to tear the paper.  It will
>also make a very sharp crease and get into very small places.  I wouldn't
>fold without it.

I suspect that the clay-shaping tools sold in art supply shops would prove
useful, too; there are several I've used that sound like the bone paper
folding tool Pat describes. Some are wood, some plastic.

Lisa





Date: Tue, 31 Jan 1995 11:07:47 -0400
From: lisaa@gsa-orsp.crown.nwu.EDU (Lisa Abel)
Subject: selling origami

Yes, origami is definitely sellable! I've made over $500 since starting two
years ago. And that was MINIMAL effort at marketing. Usually, I've found
that I can drum up quite a bit of business over the holidays for gifts. I
just show my co-workers and friends some samples, and soon I have orders.
I've also had interest from several gallery/gift shop stores here in
Evanston, although I haven't pursued them because I don't have much time to
supply large numbers of items. (I work full time, do freelance, and go to
grad school!) Besides, I prefer customizing pieces for people.

I approached the selection committe of one art show in town and showed them
some pieces. They were ready to let me set up a booth, but then I thought
better of it because this one, and most art festivals, are outside and I
didn't want to have to tie or weight everything down. But I bet craft shows
would be a good place to get some orders and exposure, and they are often
held indoors, although you're in the company of the Holly Hobby Knick-Knack
people.

I make various types of customized mobiles, pins, desk ornaments mounted on
paper stands, gift boxes, and so on. I worked up a price sheet with
illustrations and an origami business card. My business is called
"PosingPaper." I'm hoping to combine paper sculpture, paper-weaving,
quilling, and origami into larger pieces that will bring bigger prices, but
hey, I've sold mobiles for as high as $75!

Lisa
