%%%          First attempt at a beginners brewing guide       %%%%%
%%%                     All input is welcome                  %%%%%


\ifx\undefined\eoa\input newsletr \fi
\font\titlefont=cmr17 scaled\magstep 5
\font\mottofont=cmr12
\font\littlefont=cmbx5

\pageheaderlinefalse   \pagefooterlinetrue % I want a header line but
                                           % not on the title page
\evenpageheader{}{}{}
\oddpageheader{}{}{}
\evenpagefooter{Page \folio}{Remember: {\em Relax. Don't worry.%
                                         Have a homebrew.}}{\DATE}
\oddpagefooter{Page \folio}{}{\DATE}
\def\B{\par \noindent}

\def\linheading{%
    \vbox {\hrule%
        \line {\strut \vrule \quad {Beginners guide to brewing 
                        \farright {\tt c-amb@math.utah.edu}}
              \hfil
              \quad
              \vrule}%
        \hrule}%
}

\newif \iftitlepage    \titlepagetrue

\headline=
  {\iftitlepage \hfil \global\titlepagefalse \else \linheading \fi}

\titlepagetrue

%% --------------------  headline for titlepage ------------------ %%
\newspage                           % setup macro for the page
\vskip 3pt 
\noindent
{\titlefont B r e w i n g   \hskip .2in G u i d e }
\vskip 3pt 
\hrule width 7 in height 1 pt
\smallskip
\hrule width 7 in
\vskip 4 pt 
\centerline{\mottofont  Guide for beginners by Mark B. Alston}   
\vskip 4 pt
\hrule width 7 in
\vskip 2 pt

%% ---------------------------------------------------------------- %%

\begindoublequotes                 % Handle double quotes
\ignoreunderfill                   % Ignore undervfill errors
\parskip=0pt                       % Don't skip between paragraphs
\parindent=18pt                    % Indent paragraphs 18pt
\rm                                % Use tenpoint roman
\begincolumns{2}                   % macro for double columns

%%------------------------------------------------------------------%%

\centerline{\bf Methodology} 
\noindent These directions are designed to help the beginning brewer
to not only brew excellent beer but to learn what each of the basic
ingredients can add to the quality of her brew.

I suggest that you make your first batches in the following order.
This will help to show you how easy it is to brew quite a variety of
beers as well as help to define the difference in flavors attained
from malts and grains, and the distinction between hop bitterness and
the other benefits of the hop: flavor and aroma.  
\eoa
\articlesep

\coltitle{\centerline{\bf Batch \# 1}}

\centerline{\bf For a 5-gallon batch.} 
\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{1-Hopped Extract kit of your choice}
\dotitem{Dextrose (corn) sugar as required by kit instructions}
\dotitem{1-2 pkg (14 gr.) Ale yeast}
\dotitem{1/2 tsp. dextrose sugar per 12 oz. bottle to prime}
\endlist
\egroup

\vskip 5pt

\coltitle{\centerline{\bf Batch \# 2}}

This batch should be exactly the same as the first batch with the
exception of the substitution of malt extract for the dextrose in the
boil.  

\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{1-Hopped extract kit of your choice}
\dotitem{1-can unhopped malt}
\endlist
\centerline{\bf or for more bitterness}
\beginlist
\dotitem{2-Hopped extract kits of your choice}
\dotitem{1-tsp. Irish Moss last 15-20 min. of boil}
\endlist
\egroup


\vskip 5pt

\coltitle{\centerline{\bf Batch \# 3}}

This batch is the same as \# 2 with the addition of finish and dry
hops.

\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{1/2-1 oz. finish hops at end of boil}
\dotitem{1/2-1 finish hops dry at 1st rack or after primary
fermentation}
\endlist
\egroup
\vskip 5pt

\coltitle{\centerline{\bf Batch \# 4}}

Same as \# 3 except as follows:

\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{1/2-3 lbs. flavoring grains of your choice}
\endlist
\egroup

Steep grains in $160^\circ$ F brewing water for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Strain liquid into wort prior to boil.  Proceed as with other batches

\vskip 5pt

\coltitle{\centerline{\bf Batch \# 5}}

Now that you have learned what each ingredient can add to your beer
you are ready to choose and bitter your own malt.  Add your choice of
flavor grains and the addition of finish and dry hops.  Now we are
really brewing.

\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{5-10 lb unhopped malt extract}
\dotitem{1/2-5 lb Specialty grains}
\dotitem{1-2 oz Bittering hops}
\dotitem{1/2-1 oz finish hops at end of boil (flavor)}
\dotitem{1/2-1 oz aroma hops after primary fermentation}
\dotitem{1-2 pkg (14 gr) Ale yeast}
\dotitem{1/2 tsp dextrose sugar per 12 oz bottle to prime}
\dotitem{1 tsp Irish Moss for clarity (optional)}
\endlist
\egroup

\endcolumns                             % End of double columns

\articlesep                             % Seperate the articles w/
                                        % rule
\begincolumns{3}

\centerline{\bf Basic Instructions}
Remove lid and label from can and heat can in pot of boiling tap water
for 15 to 20 min. or until it will pour.  In another pot bring 1 gal.
of brewing water to a boil.  Use as large a pot as you can.

Once extract can be poured, pour it into the boiling brewing water.
Rinse out can with heated brewing water (heated in a separate
saucepan) and pour into pot.  Add the corn sugar, if required, and
enough brewing water to bring level of wort (unfermented beer) to 2
inches below top of brewpot.  Stir until mixed to prevent scorching
and bring to a rolling boil. Add bittering hops if used.  Boil for 60
minutes {\bf watching very carefully for boil-overs}.

After 60 minutes, cool wort by placing brewpot into a cold water
bath.  Once wort has cooled to approx. $77^\circ$ F add to primary
fermenter and fill to pre-marked 5 gallon level with brewing water.
Pitch (add) rehydrated yeast and oxygenate your wort.  Affix airlock
and ferment until all signs of activity have ceased.  Prime, bottle,
carbonate, age and DRINK!  \eoa


\centerline{\bf Sanitation}

You must properly sanitize all equipment used in brewing.  This will
insure your beer is not contaminated with bacteria and wild yeast.

A 20 minute soak in B-brite or household bleach solution (2
tablespoons bleach per gallon water) works great.  Rinse all items
thoroughly with hot water.  DO NOT leave stainless steel items soaking
in bleach.  Chlorine corrodes the steel.  Use caution with
glass carboys.  They will break if the temperature change is too
abrupt.

Anything touching the wort or it's ingredients prior or during the
boil do not need to be sanitized.  The boil will take care of that
quite well.

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Priming, Carbonating,}
\centerline{\bf and Aging}

After all signs of fermentation activity have ceased you must add
sugar to the finished beer to produce carbonation, this is called
priming.  First you must sanitize your bottles, a 5-10 gal. plastic
bucket, your siphoning hose, and your bottle caps (boil these for 5
minutes).  Boil 3/4 cup corn sugar in 16 oz. water for 5 minutes.  Add
this sugar solution to the sanitized pail.  Siphon the beer from the
fermenter into the plastic bucket.  {\bf Being very careful not to
aerate the the beer.}  Now siphon from this bucket into the bottles.
Leave about 1 inch of air space in the bottle.  After filling each
bottle place a sanitized bottle cap atop it but do not cap.  This
allows residual oxygen to be forced out of the bottles by the carbon
dioxide.  Finally, after filling every bottle go back and cap each of
them with your bottlecapper.  Store away from light (inside the case
works great) at room temp for 1 to 2 weeks.  After this time the beer
will be lightly carbonated.  Move beer to a cool place for aging, or
refrigerate for drinking if desired.  

\articlesep

\centerline{\bf Flavoring Grains}

Because we are brewing an extract brew you will not need to mash these
grains.  You must crush them however.  You brewing supply store should
have a mill for this purpose.  Otherwise, you can crush them with a
rolling pin using a small amount of pressure.  You must steep them,
after they have been crushed, to extract the flavor, body, and color
that they will add to your beer.  A 30-60 min. steep in $160^\circ$ F
brewing water will extract all the goodness and keep from extracting
the harsh tannins from the husks.  These tannins begin to come out of
the husks at $170^\circ$ so keep that temp down.

\articlesep 
\centerline{\bf Oxygenate your Wort}

To help your yeast get a good start and to prevent a stuck
fermentation, your beer must be well aerated.  After pitching the
yeast shake the fermenter briskly for 2 or 3 minutes.  This will make
your yeast much happier micro-organisms.

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Rehydrate your Yeast}

To rehydrate dry brewing yeast boil 5-6 oz brewing water then cool to
$100^\circ $F.  Stir in yeast until mixed and cover loosely.  Let it
stand for 10-30 minutes.

\articlesep 
\centerline{\bf Bittering Hops} 

In order to extract the hard resins which give hops their bittering
qualities the hops must be boiled.  A rolling boil of 60 to 90 minutes
is best for efficient extraction.

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Finish Hopping}

{\bf Hop flavor}; Add 1/2-1 oz of aromatic hops to the wort as you
finish the boil.  Allow the hops to steep in the wort as it is being
chilled. 

{\bf Hop aroma}; Single stage brewers add 1/2-1 oz of aromatic hops to
fermenter after primary fermentation activity subsides.  (When you
notice the foam on top of your brew start to fall the time is right)
Reseal and allow hops to remain until bottled.  Two stage brewers: add
1/2-1 oz of aromatic hops to the secondary fermenter before racking
the beer from the first stage.  Secondary fermentation should last
around one week to allow sufficient extraction.

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Keeping Notes}

Keeping good notes on each brew is one of the best ways to learn and
become a better brewer.  It is hard to remember problems or experiences
even 2 or 3 brews down the road.

Keep more records than you think that you need.  After a few brews you
will begin to see what is important and what simply stays the same
from batch to batch.  

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Further Reading}

{\it The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing} by Charlie Papazian is a
great book to read.  It should
be the first homebrewing book any brewer buys.

{\it The Complete Handbook Of Home Brewing} by Dave Miller gets a
little more technical and helps fill in a few gaps.  

\articlesep
\centerline{\bf Equipment}

The following equipment is available at your local homebrew supply.
Look up ``Beermaking Supplies'' in your yellow pages.  Bottles
can be found at restaurants \& bars.
\bgroup
\beginlist
\dotitem{2-Food grade buckets w/ gasketed lid (6 gal)}
\dotitem{1-Air lock w/ rubber stopper}
\dotitem{1-Thermometer}
\dotitem{6-Feet of 3/8 inch i.d. tubing}
\dotitem{1-Bottle filler and Racking Tube}
\dotitem{1-Bottlecapper}
\dotitem{Lots of bottlecaps}
\dotitem{60-Returnable 12-oz. bottles}
\dotitem{1-Beer bottle brush}
\dotitem{Malt, hops, grains, and yeast as called for in recipes}
\endlist
\egroup

\bye

% Local Variables: 
% mode: tex
% TeX-master: t
% End: 
